Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/02/2009 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Sorry for all the posts, getting around the post upload limit. You'll notice the tints are gone aswell. Heat gun made light work of them!
  2. 5 points
    My Little Cherry, she's an old little car! From the moment I met her I knew we'd go far! With me at her wheel, It's what I had been dreaming of... Shows and events, and more learning than I could think of! No matter the weather, she gets thirsty like me.. She smokes and its awful, she drinks oil like it's free. Never a care for what long driving brings.. Yeah I know, pistons and rings. What would I do if the tread went on the tires? At least if the electrics fail, @Rich can put in new wires.. Tires can be fixed, @danno can buy me some more Oh Crap! There's a leak! Watch my liquids now pour... If anything else breaks let's go to Halfrauds for a new part... Perhaps now it's time to go back to the start? Nah I don't think thats an option, I'm hooked! I can finally have cherry vinyl all thanks to @Loop'd With the monitor, @Silver!, keeping his eye on things And @mk2's trippy picture is giving me wings! I love ClubLupo, sad but it’s true.. And the reason is because of crazy car folk like you! The help and support on this forum is on par Whenever I struggle with my little Cherry car. Before I was here, I couldn’t even fill my tire with air, Listening to the mechanic I’d listen, but not care – “Cherry has a rather odd malfunction, Her cambeltshaft snazzle has lost most of it's suction.” These things in my head, oh my goodness what? Can you just tell me in English if she’s broken or not? “You have airflow chassis and fanbelt slippage. And the plastic end from the dipdiff stick carb needs new tippage.” Oh Lord, I don’t know and I don’t think I care, I’m off to the metro, will she manage to get me there? “The worst of all your problems that I find you got Is that your heating intake vent razzle valve really squeaks a lot.” Ok so I’m sure Cherry is just singing a song, Come on mate I’ve not had her that long! “Well from all the checks that I've done so far, I’m sorry but Cherry is crap and you need a new car.” But not in ClubLupo, there’s no giving up! See now @16Vjason can drive with a cup! Without all the help and advice you have given… Cherry would be in the scrappy and wouldn’t be driven. Thank you! xx
  3. 4 points
  4. 4 points
    I should update this more often, it's been nearly 6 months since last time The 15th of May marked the 2nd year of ownership of the car, and I sometimes wonder why I didn't buy one of these earlier... So far and since my last update, the car has had a very small service, new spark plugs and cleaning of the leads alongside a new air filter. I'm waiting to do the oil service, having already bough the filter and the oil. After having to jumpstart the car a couple of times, it turned out the old battery was dead. I tried doing a whole charging cycle on it which didn't work at all, so in the end I had to buy a new battery . As for changes, I bought and installed a Gamma radio as the plan is to fit 8 speakers this summer. And yes, I know these were standard in the UK And now a couple pictures of a little drive I did this morning:
  5. 4 points
    If anyone is interested, there's a feature in May's edition ( out now. ) of Modern Classics about the Lupo GTI under the title Tiny Heroes. Gets a good right up !
  6. 4 points
    Best place I can think of putting them is back in 2004 where they came from. Failing that they should neatly tuck underneath the dash plastics on either footwell and face down to glow on your carpets. But please consider option 1 first.
  7. 4 points
    Today, this happened...
  8. 4 points
    First event done! Started car 52, finished 37th o/a and 4th in class, car was great! Just need to get properly used to pushing it to its limits now! Made up with the result
  9. 4 points
  10. 4 points
    While I agree with your premise, market forces dominate these decisions and ultimately, the Lupo did not sell well in comparison to other cars in its class. Haynes for example, only usually make their manuals for vehicles that have sold more than 100 thousand units. A hundred thousand units isn't very many in reality for a company like VW, yet if you use HowManyLeft, in 2005, there were roughly 28452 units on the road. Say we round that up to 29000 (because HML numbers above a thousand are ambiguous) and perhaps say that there's also a percentage of cars that are written off every year or broken for parts. Now, I don't know what that percentage is, but just call it x%. Attribute this a number if you like, 5 maybe, but the number is not important. In 2005 there were 199,000 base model Ford Ka's on the road alone. That number actually doubles if you throw in all the various derivatives of the Ka (Style, KA 2, Ka Luxury). In any case, for every 1 Lupo (E, S, TDI, GTI, SDI), there were about 8 bog standard Ford Ka's... or maybe 7 if we round that number down, it's about 7 and a half to be precise. Consider the fact that x% is an abstract and not a number, it is highly probable that x% of Ford Ka's is in fact higher than the x% of Lupo? Why? Ka's were known to rust.... badly. Some of them, literally rusted around you to the point that they were write-offs. So, that x% is potentially even higher which means even MORE sales. So, you can see now the concerns VW must have been having at the time. Their city car was being outsold comprehensively, approximately 8 to 1 (or even more) by Ford Ka's base model, even if it was a rusty shitbox that fell apart after a few years. If you consider the derivatives then it was being sold at around 14 to 1. Throw in all other manufacturers like Peugeot, Citroen, Vauxhall and christ, they must have been worried. It's easy to see why VW discontinued the Lupo if you go on sales alone. I genuinely believe the Lupo was too expensive for its class. It was nearly £8000 for the base model and it was after all, a fairly basic city car. The Ford Ka on the other hand was several thousand cheaper and came with other features such as central locking and electric windows as standard. People buying a new car aren't thinking about what'll happen in 10 years. The Lupo was the better car, but the Ka was the cheaper car. Most people will go for the cheaper car. Now, of course, which vehicle stood the test of time? Most Ka's are plagued with rust problems and are being written off because of such issues, while the Lupo hasn't had such issues and suffer from fairly minor problems. If you use the numbers from HowManyLeft and do some simple maths, it's clear which vehicle is standing the test of time. If we don't consider niche models that people keep running because they're somewhat desirable (Lupo GTI, Ford StreetKa) and just consider base models alone: 80% of Lupo base models on the road in 2006 are still on the road, while just 50% of Ford Ka base models on the road in 2006 are still on the road.
  11. 3 points
    Well I'm back from what can only be described as one of the best trips ever. The weather was perfect! I covered 1273 miles in total, 6 laps of the Ring and the car didn't miss a beat. It continues to amaze me and anyone else that comes in the car. Last year my best BTG was a 9.50 taking it fairly easy as I didn't know the track at all. This year, with the car feeling much more capable than last year I managed to get into the 8's with a 8.49! With a passenger and a couple of hold ups. I say it to everyone who has never been to the Nurburgring, make it a priority as it is simply the best place in the world for petrol heads! It was extremely busy on the Friday as it was Car Freitag, but Saturday, Sunday and Monday were a bit quieter. Especially if you get to the track first thing. I thought a few of you would spot me in Shmee's video, it was a very strange moment as I have been watching him for so long. Safe to say the Senna looked even better in person. I also stopped at Circuit de Reims-Gueux as I was passing through from Paris, would of been rude not to get a few photo's! I'll leave a few pictures below of the whole trip! And save the best till last...
  12. 3 points
    As we all know the GTI has different ball joints to a standard Lupo and all the 3rd party ones never fit because they just give you standard ones. Well I was on buycarparts just having a look and noticed these https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/rts/7883717 From the picture they looked like GTI ones so I figured for the price I'd just have a go and see, no harm done if they were the wrong ones...Well it arrived and they are identical to the GTI ball joints. Got a brand new VW one for comparison so here's a few pictures comparing them. Definitely handy seeing as the OEM one's are a pain in the arse to get hold of!
  13. 3 points
    Well i’m back from a long weekend at the Nürburgring, if you have never been I highly advise you to go. The most incredible place i’ve ever been, a petrol heads dream! The Lupo performed faultlessly and not a single issue! Oh and the tyre writing didn’t last, a permanent solution is being worked on. I’ll leave a few pictures below?? p
  14. 3 points
    Update time, got hold of a set of OZ Superleggera’s, the lightest 15” wheel available. Had them finished in a Satin anthracite which i think looks fantastic. Wrapped in Yokohama AD08R’s, they are going to be my summer wheel. Some pictures below of how they look.
  15. 3 points
    My TDI is on 260k now and drives spot on.
  16. 3 points
    We have a different understanding to what makes a car more interesting / valuable. Apparently being able to fit a tow bar is the new cool
  17. 3 points
    I saw this in the local adds up for sale for £300. 120k and cambelt done recently. i asked a load of questions then it all went quite.... i got a message today saying that he wants it gone this weekend as he has a new car now and offered it to me for £150. So now I have 2 lol i am a very happy bunny
  18. 3 points
    Indicator stalk intermittent: contacts wear out, just replace the stalk Drivers door not activating interior light: will be dry joints in the lock mechanism, dismantle and re-solder CD changer lights: you might just need an illumination loom, pull the CD changer out and have a look if one is fitted http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=113637&page=2 Window problem: could just need a new switch Drivers seat heating: I'd swap the roller switches over and if the problem still persists I'd probably look to replace the heating mat (or at least remove the seat covers and look to see if it
  19. 3 points
    I'm biassed. Go for the SDI and you'll be fine. Cheap running, cheap insurance and very reliable. Not much to go wrong. Check out the buyers guide.
  20. 3 points
    Replaced my rear Discs/pads at weekend with some Brembo dealies. Gonna do the front next and I'm contemplating a G60 upgrade, am I correct in thinking that one of the places to get the correct carriers is from a 1.8 Corrado? Found a set for about £20 each if so. Now the weathers improving a bit aswell, got the clay bar/polish/wax out and gave her a good going over.
  21. 3 points
  22. 3 points
    Having done a few cambelt changes on the SDI, I thought I'd post a how to. I've had to repair other people's mistakes as it is not obvious like on other Vdubs. There are a few sequences you MUST follow, as some parts overlap or get in the way. If you do it in the wrong sequence you can break something. Take your time. The work is fairly straight forward, but some bits are fiddly, such as the hex bolts on the crank and water pump pulleys. Don't use allen keys- use a proper hex driver attachment to fit your socket set ratchet spanner. Tools needed: trolley jack 1/2" metric socket set (to 19mm) metric spanner set (to 19mm) stubby screwdriver 8mm flat blade 1/2" drive hex key driver set (to 10mm) a medium length 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver 3mm allen keys or nails or steel pins molegrips for the pipe clamps compact mirror paint spray grease light oil can rag to clean hands and messy bits Start here: Loosen RHS front wheel bolts. Jack up front of car, both sides. Put on axle stands or blocks, wood etc. Both front wheels off the ground. Remove plastic sump tray (two 10mm bolts and three star clips)- rotate star clips counter clockwise until they come off their threads if they will be reused. Remove RHS front wheel. Open bonnet. Remove engine dressing cover (take care with the clips). If the two studs come away, they will need to be detached and thread locked back onto their pedestals later. Dismantling: Unclip air temp sensor Remove air duct Remove ribbed belt -14mm spanner- loosen tensioner bar around back of diesel pump Remove top cam belt cover (don't forget small plastic screw and pipe clip) Put trolley jack under rhs of engine sump Remove engine mount top bracket 3 + 1 bolts -jack up engine to take the strain Loosen engine mount side support 4 bolts- leave in place for the minute Remove engine mount 3 bolts Manoeuvre engine mount side support up and out (leaving bolts loose in it)- jack up engine or lower as needed Remove water pump pulley - no option - this must be done (3 bolts) Remove the crankshaft ribbed belt pulley (4 bolts) Remove the lower cam belt cover (3 bolts- yes 3) Turn engine clockwise using socket on crank until all the TDC marks line up Put a paint mark on all of the cambelt pulleys and behind them in easy to see positions Loosen cam belt tensioner nut to allow cam belt to go slack Remove the mini cambelt idler bearing pulley next to the diesel pump Ease the cambelt off the pulleys Fully remove the cam belt tensioner (jack up the engine a bit) This is the (easy) point to remove the water pump if you are going to replace it Check condition of pulleys and crank seal, and clean up any gunge- if any. This is the easy point to check/change ribbed belt tensioner pulley bearing Reassembly: (raise or lower engine as needed throughout the procedure) Clean then lightly oil every nut and bolt before reassembly Lube (spray grease) intermediate slider and spring inside tensioner (they wear out quicker otherwise) Loosely hang new cam belt on tensioner pulley and slide it back onto the stud (no nut just yet) Locate tensioner anti rotate peg into slot (important) Ease the cam belt onto the pulleys, starting at the crank first, just hanging on the pulley edges Once the cam belt is located in the right timing teeth slide it fully onto each pulley Check the paint marks are still right and the pulleys haven't moved Tighten the tensioner nut up to finger tight (don't forget the washer) Recheck the anti rotate peg is correctly located Refit the (new) small idler bearing pulley (to the right torque- not too tight!) Using some makeshift tools tension the cam belt just enough to take out any slack, then tighten the tensioner nut just enough to stop it loosening. Turn the crank by hand a few times to get the new belt to settle in the pulley teeth and allow it to find its running line. Using a small mirror, check the alignment of the tensioner marks. Adjust tensioner so that the marks line up Turn the crank again a few times Check and adjust the tensioner again. keep doing it until the tensioner mark stays lined up. Then the tension is perfect. Note the tension alignment moves with temperature if checking a hot engine (the belt gets tighter). Tighten tensioner nut to the right torque (not too tight!) Refit (in this order): Engine mount side support (the bolts have to be in place before trying to fit it) Lower cam belt cover Water pump pulley Crankshaft ribbed belt pulley Remaining top engine mount parts in reverse order as removed -don't overtighten! Top cam belt cover Ribbed belt Air duct Temp sensor (don't forget to plug it in or you'll get a check engine light!) Final check- make sure you can turn the engine over at the crank before starting Refit the other bits in reverse order as removed The timing alignment can be double checked with all wheels on the ground (upper cam belt cover off)- Put the car in 5th gear, roll forwards inch by inch till the timing marks all line up: Flywheel check hole (--o mark), cam pulley (dot) and injection pump (holes line up) pics for reference follow: 264j9j6.jpg 2u6mflj.jpg 1ie8g6.jpg 2cptgd4.jpg 2ccpfef.jpg 9u2l35.jpg 24e87wz.jpg 16ixsag.jpg 99oylf.jpg 6pq6tt.jpg 35lgegk.jpg wnz3p.jpg Here's a link for the very similar polo SDI engine, with some useful diagrams how to change the cam belt. http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-belt-on-vw-polo-6n-1-7-sdi/ Tighten bolts and nuts to the following settings. Notice that they are not that tight, as many threads are cut into aluminium which strips easily. Add a drop of oil to each thread before assembly. Not too tight... Upper engine mount 3+1 bolts: 30lbft Engine mount side plate 4 bolts: 30lbft Cam belt tensioner nut: 15lbft Water pump pulley 3 hex bolts: 20lbft Crank pulley 4 hex bolts: 25lbft Lower cam belt cover 3 bolts: 10lbft Plastic bolt upper cam belt cover: a bit tighter than finger tight. Idler pulley bolt: 20 lbft. I recommend wearing gloves, as knuckles will get damaged during work. There is hardly any space between the body and the engine, so you'll need to raise or lower the engine all the time to get things to fit. Start to finish takes a relaxed 3h. You can do it in about 45 minutes with practice! 12 more pics to follow- have reached CL site memory limit for today 27/nov/19... If someone could tell me how to post all the pics in one 'post' that'd save me loads of work. I don't want to break this thread into lots of different posts. Pleease
  23. 3 points
  24. 3 points
    So over the past couple of days, i've been stripping my interior door cards and parcel shelf and retrimming them... Again... I much prefer this than the black material i used before! Heres a few pictures of what i've been up to!
  25. 3 points
    I should have told you it's worth £1.5k and then bought it as a spare!
  26. 3 points
    http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/forum/58-cars-for-sale/ colour,mileage,previous owners,MOT, any issues, where located, pictures etc etc?
  27. 3 points
  28. 3 points
    To whoever has starting problems on their automatic Arosas: I was having intermittent starting problems, my local garage couldn't find the fault, so I got the inhibitor changed in the hope it would help, but no. The starter motor followed but didn't help at all, in fact the starting issues seemed to get worse. A chap who owns a garage/workshop a few miles away was recommended as being good at his job, reliable and cheap, so we took my Arosa to the 'hospital' once again on a last ditch attempt to sort it out once and for all. Dropped it off first thing in the morning and got a call a couple of hours later saying that the car was ready. All it took was an alan key, some WD40 and £20! The reason was that the button you press on the gear lever to put the car in drive or park etc, wasn't springing out properly, even if it seemed to spring out, it only took half a centimeter and the car wouldn't start. The WD40 took care of that. That can be done at home, you take off the lever's plastic handle with the alan key, spray with WD40 and replace the handle. My Arosa's been starting perfectly ever since (that was 2 months ago)... A bit long-winded but hope it will help.
  29. 3 points
    Lol thats why im a welder & not a teacher.
  30. 3 points
    Ten years since I joined this forum and bought my Lupo. Thank you everyone for the help and advice over the years :-)
  31. 2 points
    Greetings! I have just bought my wife a really tidy little Lupo in Fantasia green, 2002 with an unbelievable 7,800 miles from new. Absolutely immaculate condition with full vw history. Apparently the lady owner bought 2 brand new, an auto and a manual and very rarely used it. Still had it serviced every year though. I am amazed at the build quality for a little car and compares to my Audi A4 quattro! I have posted a question about the cigarette lighter but just wanted to say HI to everyone here
  32. 2 points
    Do a compression test on it before chucking money at cambelt change, you can get tester kit for £20. Sounds like you have a well worn (knackered) engine that probably needs a rebuild of some sort to bring it back to health, compression test will confirm. Do a visual inspection on cambelt for tension belt condition as well as obvious clues as to how old it is, (water pump, tensioners, the print on the belt etc).
  33. 2 points
    Just a quick update, finally found someone in the UK who acn supply decent tyre writing! I’m really hally with how they turned out, let me know what you think!
  34. 2 points
    Haha it still matters if it's trade insurance as to what you are actually declaring. If your calling them up or using an app and registering the car on your policy as whats on the log book but it's got a different engine, that's still illegal, even with trade insurance. I've had my trade policy for a fair few years, I have to sell a min of 8 vehicles a year. All cars MUST be legally declared, there's no exceptions to a traders policy. If you crash, your in the same boat as everyone else if the details are wrong.
  35. 2 points
    Looking forward to it, especially the leaderboards. How will the scoring work? I hope it's different to the current "get a friend to like all my posts" !
  36. 2 points
    You cant remove the OE material as i have tried, you will ruin the headlining and make a mess. I put up this fairly comprehensive guide a while back which might help. I also happen to have this headlining up for sale if you don't want the hassle of DIY-ing it
  37. 2 points
    @Rich this is what he's like..... definitely needs a lesson in testosterone:-) isn't that right @danno ?? ?
  38. 2 points
    @Rich hahaha that made me laugh. Didn't even notice a reply til Danny said about hairypies haha. Thanks for saying hello though. Yes what's wrong with that name? Wait til you see what I'm gonna do to the headliner ! And Rich I'm gonna do stuff myself, are you proud of me? Rich we going to the unit for some seats. Dan says would you like to come for a slice of his pie? X
  39. 2 points
    2) No 1) Would suggest jacking points anyway. "Any amount of time" - 10 minutes or so. Are your sills rotting away? 3) Yes "Over thought this" - Yes
  40. 2 points
    Long weekend! Engine was ready to go in, we did a test fit and the bracket we'd made to hold the crank sensor was catching on the o/s chassis rail. Out we take the engine, and out of curiosity turned our attention to the 1.0 engine that has a crank sensor hidden behind the flywheel. Turned out that the wheel on that engine and the oil seal housing was a perfect fit on the AFH, so we put it on and got the engine in. Couldn't get it to line up properly with the gear selector bar at the back. What we hadn't done was swap the mounts on the chassis for the 1)v sport ones, when compared these move the engine forward around 30mm. Swapped over and engine fitted fine. Later that night we realised that the crank sensor was a Hall effect, which is no good for the DTA S40, only the S60 and above can handle that, which is a significant amount more to buy. Sunday we swivelled the engine round on a jack and created a new bracket to house the crank sensor using original trigger wheel on the aux belt pulley idea. Last night we set up the ECU, tested the new wiring loom that Martin had made all sensors etc... Had it cranking on the starter motor with the ignition switch, but I didn't go for oil yesterday as it wasn't expected it would be ready to start! Tonight should be the night pics not in any particular order :
  41. 2 points
    Definitely doesn't look even a little bit oem.
  42. 2 points
    Just a couple of pics of my Lupo Gti .. All completely standard .. Even managed to replace the door locks well pleased with myself for that one..
  43. 2 points
    rollbar in... black front, silver rest..
  44. 2 points
  45. 2 points
    Recently bought this from another forum legend... But I've yet to fit it as this happened... ??????????? So that's as far as I've got, obviously baby takes priority but for now as an interlude let's look at how it originally looked... How it looked when I got it... And how it looks now... Thanks for looking.
  46. 2 points
    All the glass on the GTI is the same as the 3L glass, just about thick enough to be road legal. Its all about the weight saving......!!!
  47. 2 points
    Closet chav lol.Also why have a fast fwd car?
  48. 2 points
    I still think a TDI is a better all round option though. The SDI really is for those who like veggie oil, and like seriously cheap motoring. My insurance this year is ridiculously cheap.
  49. 2 points
    You guys wont stop until you ruin your cars lol.
  50. 2 points
    Picked up last week only 64k miles.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.