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mk2

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Everything posted by mk2

  1. On a completely standard, unmodified car, 'S' spec, I'm sure it was something to do with the CCU (convenience control unit). Problem I think is related to door locks (microswitches), where if the CCU thinks the door is still open when it's locked, it keeps power alive ready to start or something??? Am I on the right lines? Damned vdub door locks...
  2. 0.04 ohms is good. wire is ok. next..!
  3. I'll second that. Just buy a car with a 1.8T as supplied by OEM cheaper in the long run. Simply strip it out to an almost bare shell. Completely legal (although uncomfortable).
  4. From my limited knowledge on the subject as I've not had an accident yet (!), if people are injured or killed (as in there may have been a crime committed), then they look at everything - including light switch position, wiper switch position, tyre pressures, brake fluid level, wiper condition, tread, brakes pads & discs, seat mounting, steering condition and fluid levels, air in injector rails and fuel pipes etc etc. Basically, anything that affects safety and behaviour of the car. So engine, of course. And welcome to CL!
  5. Dumb question probably... but as the hubs on 3Ls are different to regular Lupos, do they fit a regular or/and a GTi? and what tyres go on them?
  6. Oh, you just got to tell us all the news! Any pics? Extraordinary excursions are always something to discuss for us lessor mortals.
  7. The egr control solenoid is below the left blue thing in your pic. The pipe from it goes to the egr valve to the left of the dip stick. Where are you in the uk? One of us here maybe nearby... otherwise, might be a quick fix for an autoelectrician. You need to check the feed from K46 in that diagram. The power goes through the k46 switch contact which powers everything.
  8. EGR valve sounds ok. You should see at least 11v on the plug to the EGR valve when it's operating. if you pop off the air pipe (fitted with the air temp sensor) between the air filter box and the EGR air choke valve, then start up, you should see the valve closed once it's idling (Make sure nothing gets sucked into it!). If you blip the throttle you should see it open then close again. If it stays open all the time, the EGR circuit to the valve isn't providing power to the choke solenoid. The choke valve operates using vacuum force/power (same as the EGR valve).
  9. Yeah I have one of them in my silver SDI, connected to the MCD head unit I fixed. It also has a USB port as well as an analogue in. But I thought that it'd be neat if I could get the same functionality without needing to plug in a memory stick or my phone directly into the headphone jack. The interface would be completely wireless, and even if I left it in my pocket, it'd work. One of my Lupos has the Philips car audio system which I got on Ebay for almost nothing. It is an amazing system, complete with DAB. But it's the blue tooth function I use the most. https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/CE153DR_05/carstudio-car-audio-system So I thought it'd be good if I could replicate that functionality with the standard vdub Beta cassette player based unit, to keep the OEM look. A secret function in an old radio...
  10. This is really great info! 👍🏻 Where did you find it?
  11. Nah, you can't mess with injection sequence... all unmessable. Mechanical. The poor running is the injection timing pickup (inj no. 3) signal not getting through to the ECU. You'll see that that injector looks different to the others. It's a rather nifty way for the system to check and adjust the injection timing while it's running. If it doesn't get the signal, it locks the timing at somewhere around TDC. Same goes for the air temp sensor- it locks the air temp at probably 10c or something.
  12. Yeah, the error message you get from the intake air temp says it. "High voltage". Means either the loom power rail or earth rail are loose or not connecting correctly. My hunch is still a relay, but could be ignition switch. Check the power voltage on the EGR solenoid connection. That may help, as it's easy to get to.
  13. Pull the egr vac hoses out... (and block the ends so they don't suck air in). That'll give you a smidge more power.
  14. I generally use a multimeter on a car to check power volts (typically around 12.5v not running and 14.1 running) and continuity (beep function). If a circuit is meant to be powered, it's usually at 12 or 5v. Sensors generate an output between 1 to 4.5v. Anything else is suspect and can be caused by a dodgy contact or switch. Checking a wire is actually getting power through is best done by connecting a meter probe one end and at the other. So when there's power at point A, and nothing at B, you can check the wire using the beeper. No beep means a break. Also a good way to check for shorts between a wire that shouldn't be earthed and you might get an earth because of a break in insulation or something rubbing through. I guess the trick is to find where the power is coming from and work your way from the source. Battery to fuse panel, usually ok. So working from the fuse terminal to the next point along the chain, then a switch, then a relay, another switch and so on. So somewhere there might be a loose joint or a corroded contact preventing power getting through.
  15. mk2

    Assertive . . .

    My fav colour. Just wish one of my SDIs was like it. I wonder who's it is, with nice wheels...
  16. 100% not the ECU. Sounds like the B+ line supplying most of the engine loom. Which like you say comes via a relay, controlled by ignition relay and ig switch... you need to get in behind the fuse panel. Try swapping the relays first, or at least getting a multimeter out. Could be ig sw, which is also a common failure. pics please!
  17. Does the coolant level drop over time? Should be pink or purple antifreeze too- the blue stuff will actually corrode the engine and make things worse. I've never changed one on a Lupo, but heard horror stories about how much work it is. Apparently, when building a new Lupo in the factory, the first thing to go down the line after paint is the heater matrix. Then all the other bits are assembled around it. It's like trying to get to the earth's core. Maybe @Rich has some good ideas if it does need to come out.
  18. Don't overtighten... they don't need to be stupidly tight. I once stripped the thread on a brand new CV joint while tightening it to the correct torque. Maybe non OEM nuts can't take as high a torque level....
  19. Don't drive it. Might be something minor, or serious, but still at a point where it's fixable without serious cost. lots more info please Bad very loud noises usually are pretty much terminal. But could just be something loose. Maybe cam belt jumped a tooth (serious)? Could be chain tensioner needs replacing. Could be gearbox related. Could be a CV joint? Difficult to say without hearing it in person. The question is though, if you head out with it again first thing tomorrow and you breakdown at the worst possible location, mid traffic in the rain, where the car can't be moved without a recovery truck, do you have a plan? Activate that plan now... A recovery might cost more than the repair.
  20. mk2

    Top mounts..

    Spray silicone oil/grease between rubber mounts... creaks all gone in a moment -Assuming all correctly assembled.
  21. mk2

    Starting problems

    Sounds more like ignition switch contact (common problem) or main power relay (behind fuse box-also common problem)?
  22. Yeah I tried all that too. The ECU basically does the fuelling map and injection timing, as it's drive by wire. Inside the injection pump there's a servo which replaces the throttle cable (which moves the injection plunger sleeve, controlling each squirt), and a solenoid which is provided with variable power to vary the start of the injection pulse. Everything else is pretty much old skool. There's a pick-up on injector 3 which looks for the beginning of the pressure wave to tell the ECU where the timing is- which it uses as a reference. So you can nudge the injection pump one way or t'other to tweak the timing, which the ECU will spot and then try and compensate for... so it doesn't work. I worked out that you need to adjust the static timing, so when hot no load idling, it is right in the middle of the adjustment zone. Let the ECU do its thing...
  23. oh. very very knocky then?! probably starts instantly though. should be about 50% from memory (hot engine). the sdi is a pain, but relatively straight forward to do. cam cover off. loosen off the front three pump bolts (just a bit!), the back one also, loosen the 4 injector supply pipes (a bit!) then tap the pump forwards a mm or two to retard. re-tighten (all eight) and then check again. I'll do a check on one of my SDIs and get a screen shot of what you should see, when I get a mo.
  24. mk2

    200 to fix this

    Oh. Probably game over then. The parts will always be in demand if there's somewhere off road to store it or under a tarp.
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