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mk2

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Everything posted by mk2

  1. Usually a sign that the linkage is worn or slightly out of adjustment. Worth checking it. Every single 085 gearbox linkage I've ever checked has had faults- mainly the rubber seal to the rubber ball cup fails, allowing muck in, wearing everything out. Sometimes the plastic linkages go loose (cheap to replace) or the shaft bearings. There's a little slot with a 10mm lock nut that you can move up or down. I always slide it up a mm or two so it helps selecting reverse easier.
  2. You should get a red alternator light (battery symbol) if it's not charging. Especially if you start it with the brakes and headlights on, interior fan on max, and rear screen demistor on. Should glow brightly, indicating a fault. Should also light up just after turning on ignition before starting showing you that the lamp isn't broken. On many vdub alternators, you can replace the regulator and brush assembly unit for a few pounds (two screws and a nut). Means you don't even need to take it out of the car or mess with the belt...
  3. Sounds about normal. You could adjust the slop take-up spring on the end of the cable (in engine bay). Obvious when you see it. 10mm lock nut and a 13mm i think... Leave a bit of spring slop, as it stops the clutch release bearing wearing out too quickly.
  4. Just found this old pic of a pedal box I'd removed and left outside in the skip. Shows the weld that breaks.
  5. That might be something else... The give away is when the clutch pedal rest position is lower than the brake pedal. And you get a creaking sound sometimes. Have you tried adjusting the nut on the end of the cable, on the clutch lever? But yeah, right part number. Your local vdub dealer "might" sell a genuine one to you cheap, as they are very aware of the polo recall with the exact same pedal box.
  6. yeah, just re-read that. That was a re-asssembly mistake. I wonder if that little ball bearing just behind the steering wheel has worn or broken in @cj1 's car. New one to me.
  7. Thought I'd finally add the "how-to" which people keep asking about.... Old EGR systems jam up or just don't work once the car is over about 50k miles or 10 years. The soot builds up and mixes with oil blow by droplets/fumes which mix together to form a sticky, gungy mess that is very difficult to shift (inside the engine). The backs of inlet valves get coated and coked up and inlet ducts get smaller and smaller reducing air flow. In a diesel engine, less air means less power. Also lots of hardened crud builds up right around the injector nozzles affecting the spray pattern. And because the ECU has no idea that the engine is clogged up, it still delivers the same quantity of fuel as if the car were brand new. So with excess fuel and not much air, the emissions suffer terribly, resulting in even more soot and lots of smoke from the exhaust. Clogging up the oxidising catalyst and subsequently an MOT fail. Even fitting a brand new air filter just before MOT time doesn't help, to try and suck in that last bit of fresh air. There are three solutions to get the car running like new again- 1. Clean out the inlet system and decoke the cylinder head. Fit a brand new EGR valve. (BTW cellulose thinners works best to remove the black goop) 2. Clean out the inlet system- if you really want to- and disconnect the two vacuum hoses to the choke flap and EGR valve. That will help improve the system a lot. (block the vacuum pipes so nothing gets sucked in) 3. Clean out the inlet system, block off the EGR system, plug the exhaust gas inlet ducts to make the air flow more laminar, disconnect the choke flap vacuum pipe and divert the low oxygen sump gases away from the inlet. (my favourite solution for 15% more power and phenominal MPG). Pics follow:
  8. mk2

    Roof antenna

    Some lupo antenna facts: There is a square silicone rubber seal moulded into the metal antenna bracket that bolts to the roof. The black rubber seal is basically just a trim. When you tighten up the nut on the inside, the force crushes the silicone seal against the roof sealing it perfectly. Problems only happen when salt spray starts to corrode the metal base and allows moisture to capillary around the seal. But by this time the rest of the car has probably already disolved away... Also, for best reception on FM or AM, you need a big antenna. It is known as "effective aperture". Imagine trying to catch fog passing the antenna "stick". But the size limit is set by the frequency band. Lower frequency, longer antenna... And, if you use a non OEM hifi unit, chances are that the antenna plug/socket is not powered. You need to supply a +ve feed to the circuit board in the antenna base. You can buy antenna power adapters to do that. The existing Lupo antenna base will not work with DAB or DAB+ radios. Ever.
  9. Have a look in one of these: (the diagrams you seek are there) http://www.oemepc.com/vw/main_group/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hauptgruppen/1234567890/lang/e https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/volkswagen/ https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/
  10. I'll try and post that "how-to" I've been talking about tomorrow. Edit- It's now in the how-to section. Done :)
  11. Yeah, exactly what @LR5V said. Also, before you lower, look exactly how the compensator is adjusted- measure/take pics etc. Then once lowered, setup the compensator so it's in exactly the same position. Precisely. Then the car's safety won't be compromised.
  12. Not worked on a Fox lock, but if anything like most other vdubs of that era, don't fully remove that screw. Count the number of complete turns as you're loosening it. Usually about 14. Basically, loosen it a couple of turns, then see if you can pull the lock out. No luck, try a couple more... etc. The screw controls a rotary lock ring, like a cam lock. You only need to unscrew it enough to line up the tabs so the barrel clears it on the way in or out. If the lock ring falls out, you have to almost strip the entire door to get to it.
  13. It's in great condition. Gotta get it galvanised...
  14. Pic please! Seeing shiney new looking rear beams is a rare treat.... I have 3 to do.
  15. Every time you crank an engine to start it (just about every car on the planet), you should run the engine for at least 15 mins to replenish the huge amount of charge you just sucked out of it. That's why cars with start-stop tech have much bigger batteries and alternators, designed to handle the frequent starting cycles.
  16. Keep pulling fuses till you can see the battery usage stops... I'd bung a current meter on the + terminal then watch the consumption. Also, deactivate the bonnet sensor while testing. Lock the car then take a reading. Unlock, pull a fuse, lock, measure again. Etc etc...
  17. Gearbox end? What's the gear stick doing when it knocks? Can you feel anything happening? I'm just wondering if it's a rotational knock (like slop in engine mounts), or sideways, or suspension related (like cv joints running out of slide travel).
  18. The quickest and least painful way to do it, I think, would be to get an existing PD130, along with ecu, loom and sensors. Then all you need to do is swap over all the bits. I'd say maybe a couple of weekends would do it. If you really want to be clever, you could keep the same SDI block (keeping your engine number), so no-one would notice anything for insurance reasons. So you'd get a PDI 120, as the crank strokes to 1.7L, not 1.9... More than enough power.
  19. @battlebus has in effect turned an SDI into a PD130... Don't forget that the SDI is nothing more than the 1.9 diesel engine without a turbo and a shorter crank. Same weight, better economy, less power. Lower insurance. You can run it on the 085 gearbox, but I'd advise a full box rebuild every 50k miles (and CV joints).
  20. The most common cause is the central locking. The CCU (convenience unit) thinks a door has just been opened or unlocked and puts everything into standby- often caused by dodgy door switch contacts. Pull the radio and interior light fuses... then watch.
  21. Nicely done. You've done a really professional job on them. Superb. How did you split the indicators apart? They are a right pain.... The centre covers are held by little plastic bits that snap clean off. And the reflective silvering on the inside just blows away when you think about looking at them!
  22. Very nice. What bumpers are they? The front lights look different somehow, but i can't identify what exactly.... You urgently need some floor mats!
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