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Everything posted by mk2

  1. If it's all good inside once split into 2 halves, the bearings to replace easily/quickly would be the diff and pinion bearings. And the 2 diff flanges, the input shaft and shifter seals. I'd stay well clear of the 5/6 cover as that is the weakest part of the system (the cover moves and then it's game over). The 6th gear cog is supported by an additional (afterthought) bearing mounted in the cover. Use 6th as a cruising gear with low torque- don't cane it in 6th. πŸ‘πŸ»
  2. Yeah, totally agree. AND if doing a restoration job, you'll be up against the parts availability. ie none in the UK. It'd become expensive very quickly. But then breaking it would also be troubkesome, as no-one has them over here so your parts buyer market is limited. If it was about 2-300 I'd probably get it for parts for my lupos. Upgrades... It's gonna be an enthusiast that buys it. And then they'll be on here already... Or if they're not, they will be soon
  3. Those wheels look too big... what tyres are you running? Rrraaarrr! That's a lot of white stuff.
  4. Most likely the control switches, but could also be a dodgy power feed via ignition sw or a relay. There's a how-to in here somewhere with pics πŸ‘πŸ»
  5. That weld looks fine. But huge milage... The chain and tensioner should be replaced avery 150k, which no-one does. Worth a fair bit in parts, but no inside pics.
  6. So just like most 1.0 Arosas/Lupos... Have yiu checked the ignition components. Common cause for problems. Or temp sensor (on every vdub in fact)... Ethanol actually burns cleaner and provides MORE power. Trouble is it doesn't store well.
  7. You have the tools? The seal is teflon, not rubber, so you need to be very careful when dismantling. I always get new seals. Why are you replacing the crankshaft? What happened...! Pics?
  8. Really excellent write up. Lots of fav pointsπŸ‘πŸ»
  9. Yeah fine. Just make sure you empty the tank before extended storage and then fill with the older e5 stuff. The alcohol portion degrades to acetic acid (also known as spirit vinegar). Discussed at length a few months ago if you have a search
  10. Where was it filmed? Those roads look very familiar...
  11. OMG that's cold. Cannot imagine it. You could do all sorts of engineering experiments in that weather...
  12. mk2

    GTI Driveshaft

    If the inner also popped, what happened to the outer? The inner cv spider is held onto the shaft by a circlip. The flailing shaft must have made a real mess everywhere...
  13. As a quick fix, you could steal/swap over the passenger door handle puller...? Same in many 2000-on vdubs and audis if you have any wreckers yards near you.
  14. mk2

    GTI Driveshaft

    Please tell me the name of the garage?
  15. Yup, you'll be good. You will actually get a better (lower smoke) number with EGR deactivated. Only thing that goes up is NOX which is only measurable during loaded driving (think vdub diesel scandal). Limit is 2.5 units, but see if you can below 0.5 (which is really clean).
  16. mk2

    GTI Driveshaft

    dear oh dear oh dear... just read the above thread. I'd be absolutely fuming. 😀 Sounds like when they removed the hub carrier (complete with ball joint and bearings), they may have accidentally pulled the spring retaining clip, which locks the spline inside the CV joint spider. Also, if the wrong ball joints were fitted, the splines would be running on their limit, as the CV joint balls would be at end stop. The first few bumps you hit would shatter the spider as there wouldn't be enough free motion along the shaft. Then the half shaft would spin inside the CV boot and mash any remaining metal to pieces. What a mess. Now assuming the gearbox wasn't damaged (which can easily happen if the shaft tries to hammer into it when you hit a bump), you'll be needing new inner and outer CV joints, a new half shaft and possibly new bearings- again as the hammering action will almost certainly have pitted the bearing journals (which won't be obvious for perhaps a year). What a mess. I don't know where you or they will get the parts. It'll have to be a breaker's somewhere... Two places I can think of- the vdub spares place in Thame or Biscester (that neck of the woods) and one other vdub dismantler in Southampton. I can't remember either of their names off the top of my head. Make sure the garage doesn't just buy a complete used half shaft along with old CV joints (and use them).
  17. Superb work πŸ‘πŸ» Something I desperately need to do to my Lupos. Puts many garages to shame that they can't do that standard of work. But I guess they don't care and only work for the money. Good job! See pics of others... https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/106756-subframe-refurb/#comment-1196460
  18. That is such an exclusive club to be in though. πŸ‘πŸ» Germany certainly didn't see that coming!
  19. Nah, those are the 3 different green colurs available on the Lupo. Actually, come to think of it, there's another too, which is a metallic light green. 4 different greens! Your's is my fav colour for a Lupo. I'd love a gti in nitro-yellow green as I call it (fantasia green is the true name).
  20. Here's another pic, just about showing the wheel...
  21. What I find is that the whole filter containment system stays full of oil (like it's meant to) until you start unscrewing the cap. Then the moment air gets in via the cap thread, the outside contaminated oil along with 'some' detritus starts flowing down between the base of the filter cartridge and the centre- because the centre is still sealed by that little extended plastic plug with the O ring. The dirty contaminated oil can't get into the sump just yet (still sealed), so it flows under gravity into the clean side for a few seconds, until you actually lift off the cap and filter, opening up the sump channel. I only discovered this because there was a particle of gasket/sealant/carbon or something sitting in the clean feed gallery and I wondered how it had got there (as I'm quite meticulous when I work). I sucked out what I could with my suction pump and only then did it become obvious where the problem was. Poor design. I'm really not impressed at all. I prefer the vertical mounted/hung metal clad disposable cartridges any day.
  22. Hmmm. What are you up to then? I told you you can adapt a regular hydraulic press by using an electric power steering pump (and tank combo). I've also updated my 'mess up' by using a foot pedal rigged up with an old power tool speed contrroller to get variable pressure, with more control. Works a lot better than a simple switch. πŸ‘πŸ»
  23. I'd just drill them out. Then add new ones. Easy enough to do once the subframe is out. If the subframe bolts are stuck or spinning: Common fix is to scrape off the goop on the structure surrounding the captive nut. Then surgically open up a hole on the side (angle grinder). Then either weld it back in solid, if you think you can unscrew the bolt using some release agent- Or, while having the car resting on the subframe (so it doesn't move), hack the entire nut and bolt out, replace with new ones, bolt up tight then weld the nut (carefully) back in again? Weld up the access hole, paint and remove bolt just to pump in loads of antirust wax. As good as new again πŸ‘πŸ»
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