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mk2

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Everything posted by mk2

  1. Have a look at the photo thread.
  2. mk2

    Hello 😁

    Welcome to Club Lupo! 🙂
  3. mk2

    sdi exhaust

    Yes. Germany is the only reasonably priced solution that will last longer than 2 years... About £100 delivered for complete system, cat back. Made by Ernst (Ernst and Walker make them for vdub). Walker and another identical copy, Asso, are not as good. I'll find the link when I get a mo. Welcome to CL! 🙂
  4. Never seen (or heard of) that before. Looks ever so tasty... served with Rice? Mash? Bread? Pasta? Is that mayo in the cup? yeah well, I'm down south.
  5. This has just got to be code for something....? frappes. Parmo. Must be the northerners' way.
  6. Ok, so maybe not everyones idea of a fun thing to do, but here're some pics... Pull injectors out. Dismantle on a bench by simply unscrewing the nozzle cap. It is very tight. Remove the Nozzle and injector pin that slides down the middle. Remove guts of injector- but make sure you keep everything in the right order. If you drop everything the first time (like I did), you do have 3 more that you can copy. But make sure you don't mix up bits between injectors, as each one has been hand calibrated (shimmed) to deliver exactly the same quantity per squirt. Means you keep a nice smooth idle (VCDS will tell you if they're out of balance). Clean everything properly. I mean 'operating theatre' level of clean. The nozzle holes are the width of a human hair and are easily blocked from inside, if something gets trapped just before reassembly. Make an LED light that you can poke down the middle of the nozzle. Inspect under a microscope and clear out any blocked or partially blocked holes with some fine steel wire. I used a strand of thin flexible rope- like bicycle gear cable wire. Smaller than 0.15mm diameter ideally. Wash with some solvent and reinspect. keep clean. Then reassemble. Grease the nozzle retaining cap thread before tightening up.
  7. mk2

    How many?

    Is there still any money breaking cars? (As in enough to make a living and pay off a mortagage) I still do it for pocket money or when I get bored. I'd say maybe £1k for all the bits/metal for just about any older vdub these days.
  8. Woah hey! And best of all, work done without pulling engine and box.... result. Once you get it going, it's seriously worth hot flushing the crud out of the gearbox. Take for a run, get properly warmed up and then dump the gear oil with the engine running. It helps keep all the bits of metal in suspension, which get flushed when you drain it. When you collect everything and allow it to settle, you'll see hiw much there was in the oil, indicating how much wear there was in the box (lupo's weakest link IMO). Then refill with 3.5 L of ep75w90 synth GL4/5 gear oil.
  9. It could be plenum resonance? How did you convert the car to manual? I guess everything is standard, but the map has been reprogrammed... Tell us how you did the conversion. Here in the UK we're interested in doing it also. No-one has done it here.
  10. Apparently tinypic is going down, so any images that are shown in posts, that are shown via links to tinypic will be dead soon... Is there a way to save all the images? Or do we have to go in through all our old 'useful' posts and edit them one by one? I checked into my old tinypic account, and apparently there are about 200 images that I've posted on CL. That will take me hours to edit.
  11. Got any pics of inside and bodywork? Box and engine ok? Apart from being stripped out and coil overs, any other mods- Could it be restored back to mint assuming I can source the interior? But if you're anything like me- and you do visit club lupo, which tells me that you're definitely into Lupos... surely it wouldn't be that difficult to pull the rear beam out and take it down to a fabricator to weld? Then you could powdercoat it, waxoyl and put it all back toegther again I haven't been in touch with my mate in Dorking; he can weld... but you'd need to get the thing out first. An hour. I guess if you did decide to sell as is, the best way to price it is compare it to a good original Lupo gti (£3-5k ?). Then calculate how much it'd cost to buy all the bits that were removed, then put everything back again. Maybe replacing broken bits...? Obviously you can't include labour costs.
  12. When's the MOT run out? I'm not that far... what sort of money are looking for? I know another vdub mate down the road from you in Dorking, which I'm guessing is nearby? He's got a trailer. @Rich you have a spare rear beam I think? How much do you want for the thing? You could ship me the front subframe for my SDI at the same time
  13. Let us know how it goes... They can generate interesting attitudes towards their owners.
  14. There is some gov't rule about cats having to last the life of the car or 250k miles or something. Might be worth looking into that, as I know that they're expensive. But if it failed on emissions, chances are that it is running too rich. Holes and rust in the exhaust are one thing but tail pipe gases are another. My bet is the cats are ok, unless physically smashed or contaminated. What are the sump blow by gases like? If you disconnect them and retest you should get lambda=1.00 (pass). That will also tell you that the O2 sensors are working fine. Diagnostics looking at the two sensor voltages might be helpful. Yeah some do have two. There was a change- like early models have two and later models, just one, or the other way round.
  15. If anyone has any images on here for how-tos or other delights, they are about to be erased forever. Save them and then repost as a regular image instead of a link after resizing to be under 1 MB....
  16. Some of the replacement cheapo temp sensors follow a different 'b-curve'- as in they fitted the wrong thermistor to the sensor. Will give the correct reading at room temp, but when hot completely out. Who knows? Curious problem this....
  17. What's the honing on the bores like? If still visible, the lump's a good 'un, so I'd do what you're thinking and just redo the valve train. That engine is a cheap workhorse, and needs to be ragged hard to get the car to go well. But it can take it, so long as all the fluids are up to date. Could be that dust got through the system and started collecting on the valve seats, which is why they went? Or maybe sump blow by gas residue sticking to things when cold causing hassle???
  18. mk2

    SDI tuning...

    Yeah, probably true, but I can't prove it. The good ol' pepsi bottle has been useful for experiments, but I've never conclusively found it to make any difference if running almost neat 'purge fluid' or diluted with a few litres in the main tank. I'll have a chat with one of the guys I know who does the development for BP's fuel additive division half a mile from here. He's told me some interesting stories about fuel additives. Apparently up till recently, Australia was one of the last countries in the world to run 100% pure 'distillate', without any detergents or anything. They know their stuff. Naturally, the BP premium diesel fuel is the world's best... Ever since, I've been using that in the tank (almost empty with just a few litres of the stupidly expensive (like 25p a litre more than regular) diesel just before MOT day. Up till now always good. Apart from I'd forgotten that I'd swapped the injectors over about 10 months ago. My MOT guy is absolutely straight down the line. My cars are all stock so I like it when he's very critical, because it helps me identify things I hadn't spotted (not often...). The smoke test is interesting because if you test just after a run- like seconds, it's always good. If the car is allowed to idle for 30+ mins (while examined) then tested, the numbers are obviously going to be higher. So I guess, the true reading happens after any soot build up has been blown out of the silencers. I wish I had a smoke tester that I could rig up to a car while driving it to see the actual readings under steady load. My first MOT fail for a very long while. I had to take it in... Woah!
  19. mk2

    SDI tuning...

    SDI and tuning in the same breath?! If that's even a 'thing'... Just thought I'd update all you non turbo, diesel tuning people out there. Over the last few months I've been running DLSA150P544 injector nozzles. Same economy on a run, but accelaration torque is way better. Who says you need a turbo? All good, and car 'almost' keeps up with a stock lupo GTi! No access to rolling road at the mo, so no idea what power gain if any. Definitely more torque though. I also adjusted the injection pump quantity adjuster to make it idle at 0.2mg when warm. So a bit more fuelling top end, like 5mg. In theory about 15-20% more fuel. More fuel = more power in a diesel. But. Yesterday my car failed its MOT on emissions. D'oh. Smoke reading when blipped to between 6-7.5. Limit is 0.7 on the plate. Oh. Took it on a quick 20 mile blast to clean anything out, along with some purge in the tank (i don't think the stuff works). Retest. No change. Back to the workshop and had a dig around for some original P745 injectors (0.190mm holes). Chucked em in. Back to tester who was now laughing... Scraped through with an average (after a few tries) of 0.66 smoke. Pass. Moral of the story- you can have more grunt from an SDI, but it's not gonna be legal...
  20. I doubt it's an air leak. Or anything to do with the O2 sensor. But- thinking aloud, what makes you think it's running rich all the time? Are the plugs all fouled up with soot? Is there a strong petrol smell all the time from the exhaust? the sensors if ok, will tell you what the ecu is seeing. The ecu only bases it's fuelling on what it sees. What you see is what it sees (the ecu sends the live data to vcds, so you're seeing through the ecu's eyes so to speak...). Check the data from temps, map, O2, TPS. It should become apparent which one isn't playing nicely.
  21. If reverse is first, then definitely linkage. Good that it's in neutral now. Noise could be release bearing or even the clutch plate rusted to the flywheel/pressure plate.
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