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Everything posted by mk2

  1. Ebay... buy everything separately and get real bargains... Just did one of my SDIs the other day. With belt, pump, tensioner and idle pulley- came to £26 in bits all up. Do some cross referencing- for example, a belt can be about £6, with a ford label on it. New, old stock. Same belt, different label :)
  2. Another is the vac hose to the brakes leaking air. Took me ages to find that one.
  3. And I managed to slip in an "ergo"...
  4. Ok, @Rich is right, but... Every VDub engine is different and uses different wiring, software, exhaust system, inlet ducting and gearbox (and gear ratios). Oh and engine mounts a lot of the time too. Even variations of the same engine require a fair bit of engineering to make them run well. Drive shafts can also be different. There's other smaller stuff I've not mentioned. Old engineering is easy, but newer ECU based engines require knowledge and real understanding. So.... to do just about any work on a car, besides knowledge, you generally need access to a full workshop and tool maker. And it gets expensive. Very expensive. True, a lot of the time you can swap parts between many models to make a decent mongrel/hybrid thing, but it takes a lots of time and searching databases to see what will actually fit what. And you'll never ever get your money back when you sell. But your knowledge about cars and vehicle engineering will be up there in the 1%, so I guess if you ever go into the motor trade, you'll earn your money back through consultancy work. The main reason most people try to upgrade their car's power is because they bought a cheap car and really would like something a lot more fun. So the usual attitude is to change the engine... But by the time they have properly working DVSA certified machine, they've spent a lot more than it would have cost to buy a much higher spec'd car. In a nutshell, you're trying to make a track car that is road legal. And you need to declare every tiny modification to your insurers or it'd be void and your name will go on the national database as lieing to insurance companies. Ergo, your premiums will cost the earth. Solution- build a track car
  5. I'd be tempted to empty out the system, dry. Then pressurise to 15psi and put washing up detergent water on the outside. Find the bubbles... you've found the leak. All you need is a testing kit or a spare cap, fitted with a tyre valve
  6. Wait till you get the plug leads. Then coil pack thingy. Do the test in the dark, as sometimes you can see where the HT is arcing over... Throttle body wont give you those symptoms. I'd be very surprised if it's the dizzy. Cap maybe? Lots of WD40 inside... just had a thought- plug leads in the right sequence?
  7. Ignition plug leads? I once had a problem that was impossible to ID. Then as a last resort I swapped the plug leads and hey presto it worked. My guess is ignition related from your description of wet plugs. It's not firing. The cause was - there's a metal shield around the plug end, with a resistor inside. Part of the shield had somehow pierced the rubber insulator and HT was jumping onto the metal shield, then out onto earth. So no spark, but bench tested fine. Also ign modules/coils are known to fail on vdubs. So everything that controls fuelling is probably ok. Probably not EGR. Not hall sender, else you'd never get sparks. late edit... re-reading your symptoms, I'm convinced it's ign. Sneezing through throttle usually caused by unburnt fuel being ignited by a different cyclinder's exhaust. Something to do with HT getting shorted out. Inside dizzy clean?
  8. Either way it needs to be pulled out... There's a how to or something on here somewhere. Maybe in the gearbox thread? Have a search
  9. Ok, hmmm. I like tricky ones like this. it's either a fuelling issue or ignition fault (or both but unlikely). Let's eliminate what it won't be. ECU- I've never seen one fail. Plus you'd get no data access or a definite ECU fault code (they have built in self diagnostics). Not O2 sensor. Not knock sensor- only effective once hot and running. Throttle body (TPS). Would still start and run albeit in limp mode. Charcoal valve. Would run a bit lean. Injectors. They're tough usually. So bearing in mind that the car was parked and standing in storage for ages without being prepped, it's most likely a moisture related issue (or rodent nibbling- which I have seen a couple of times!). Most likely: Fuel pump fuel control relay Fuel filter (for these 3, try pulling off the fuel supply hose to the fuel rail- and under the rear seat connecting 12v to the pump supply line and see if you get a decent fuel flow. Handy to have an assistant to stop fuel going everywhere). ignition coil or module or whatever you call it hall sender (unlikely, but they do go very rarely- for these two pull off the plug leads and check for sparks on each plug- pull plugs out, rest them on an earthed point for circuit continuity-again, helper handy to turn ign key). Possible but unlikely: MAP sensor- you'd get a code plus engine should still start, but run rough. EGR valve stuck open. Would cough a lot and run very rich. But run with black plugs as a result. Actually it might be this on second thoughts. The valve central shaft may have corroded a bit making it sticky because it was in storage. Condensation and all that. Not sure which type is fitted on this engine. Could try disconnecting vacuum or power (you'll get a code but can clear it later), or unboltimg it and making up a simple blanking plate across the gas feed. Relays. Er, no easy way of checking other than sticking a meter on the outputs. And if you can do that, you may as well unplug them and examine on the kitchen table. But the main power relay that runs half the engine is known to go iffy, as is the fuel pump relay. All going on behind the fuse panel under the steering. Ignition switch. They can play up. But you'd see headlights not working at all. When on. End of lecture.
  10. 100% pedal box. Especially if difficult to select 1st when running, stationary and cold. Every time you shift without fully disengaging the clutch, you damage the syncros... you need to sort it asap or you'll lunch the box too. Once sorted, flush, then renew the gearbox oil. Loads of crud will come out. SDI has a cable clutch. It works or snaps.
  11. Yes, can be welded (properly). I have a pic somewhere of where it breaks.
  12. That's a big antenna on the roof! Must be a miniature model... My 3 SDIs are all boring colours.
  13. That is gorgeous! Mmmm. Such style 👍🏻😀 And I've never ever seen an orange lupo. Ever. That's a first for me. Is it factory orange ir did someone respray it? Wow! Lots more pics of the orange lupo please. And inside. It might be a rarity (worth something). Just realised it's an Arosa! D'uh... 🙄
  14. If engine code AUC, then it's at the back, next to the flywheel, right down the bottom, just above the sump. Follow the cables. Crank sensors are usually located in the crank plane, at right angles to the piston travel, on the tangent. Any (modern) engine with an ECU will always have a crank sensor And yes most likely. I like Karmann Ghias. Pic please!
  15. Yes and yes I do hope it's not the rings, meaning it's just a sensor. Easier fix.
  16. You could use the gear shifter from a polo or another tdi lupo... clutch is hydraulic though. https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/power_transmission/5-speed_manual_gearbox_085/technical_data/gearbox_identification/
  17. To know what you need, i use these: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/ https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/volkswagen/ http://www.oemepc.com/vw/main_group/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hauptgruppen/1234567890/lang/e then just buy from wherever you can get them.
  18. Nope. None of the above. You should have left absolutely everything alone. What has happened is that condensation (acidic water) from burnt fuel exhaust has stayed inside the exhaust and combustion system (in the cylinder head). When you start and run a car for storage you have to run it till it's roasting hot, rev it to 4 or 5k, hold it there then while revving it, kill the ignition and let it run down dead. That will help flush out the waste gases and run clean air through. The condensation has caused the rings to stick and depending on type, reacted electrolytically (battery effect, dissimilar metals) with the piston grooves. two solutions, take it on a long motirway run and hope that the stuck rings release. Pull the engine to bits and unstick the rings manually. That's the reason you're getting lots of codes. ECU can't understand that fault... oh and welcome to CL!
  19. Yeah. BMW learnt a very big lesson there (as did the whole car industry). Was in all the auto news as well as general press. Some newish beemer was driving along der autobahn at about 160kph. Electric power steering motor stops. No steering- locks up solid. Autobahn curves slightly. Not enough time to react. Dead. Recall. Happened a few times apparently. In any safety critical system, where control is required, there MUST be a redundant system. In cars there is never any redundant system (too expensive) with the exception of seat belts and air bags, dual circuit brakes and handbrake.
  20. Hey @iwcham1979, you might be able to use a standard lupo hydraulic steering rack with a polo pump...? The electric power steering column system looks like a complete self controlled system so you could try it? @RAB, is the 3L quite heavy for parking? I haven't driven a post 1991 car without PAS... Old mk2 golfs are no fun unless you've just left the gym. That drawing looks like there's a worm gearbox on the steering column shaft. At least it looks like it, as the motor axis is perpendicular to the column. I imagine that if that motor stops dead, the steering must lock up (just like leccy windows).
  21. @RAB, on a 3L or A2, does the steering assist vary with speed like on later Polos with their electrically pumped hydraulic system? Slowly, max assist, at speed, no assist....? Also, just as a matter of interest- what happens on the electrical system if the power fails? Does the system lock (like on BMWs and then they crash...)- does it use a worm gear? Is the torsion sensor (and control electronics) built into the column, meaning no external control is needed- the ECU only providing a vehicle speed signal?
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