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  1. Today
  2. No cpcpeter. Speakers are ok. It's the wash water reservoir. I'm sure I let with full level, the day after was half and water inside the cabin.
  3. Thanks, Fuel pump fuel control relay Fuel filter As previously mentioned the fuel system is fine. The tank was drained and refilled with fresh fuel and the fuel filter was changed at the same time, once fresh fuel was in the tank. Tank pump working fine, relay doing its job. (already checked this by disconnecting the fuel line at the filter and tuning the ignition on) Spark plugs wet with fuel when trying to start. So, the fuel delivery is good to go other than possibly the the timing of the delivery into the cylinders? Ignition coil or module Again, as previously mentioned this has been ''bench' checked, not under load, -Bridging pos to neg = 0.07 Ohms - In spec (VW state 0.5 to 1.5 Ohms)Bridging pos to HT Output = 3.08k Ohms - In spec (VW State 2.5 to 4.0 K Ohms)So the coil appears good and the ignition leads are good along with all the spark pugs and dizzy cap, all bench tested. All plugs sparking strongly when removed from cylinder, so not Halls sensor in dizzy... or is it? I have fuel and ignition, the timing is correct (mechanically) and all cylinders, show the same compression. As mentioned, it started and ran fine 5 weeks ago, then gradually deteriorated to where we are now. Not sure what you are calling the MAP sensor (ref above Motronic 9.0 schematic). This would be the intake manifold pressure I assume a there is nothing else unless part of the throttle body assembly. I have tried starting the car with the connection to the manifold pressure sensor undone and it throws up a fault code 00519 -Intake manifold pressure sensor open circuit / short with power intermittent. On re connection this clears. Does not seem to make any difference if it is connected or not, the car still splutters and chugs just the same. Ignition switch fine. Every fuse removed and checked, but not done the relay's yet as surely if it were a fuse or a relay, then it would either work or not, it does run. but chuggs very badly then sneezes through the throttle and dies, which would indicate a timing anomaly to me. As the timing is mechanically correct (and hasn't been touched) then it may be a 'rouge' signal from a failing halls sensor? I really don't know. Interesting point about the EGR valve. May be worth checking this out. If I can get to the thing without taking the engine out! If it were something that could be diagnosed either with the scan tool, a multimeter or a process of elimination then I would have fixed it by now, unfortunately, everything is drawing a blank and pointing to the only way to sort this out is buy changing parts, which is exactly what I wanted to avoid, as I could have done this from the off and not wasted a load of time 'diagnosing' something that was 'undiagnoseable' The failure mode (or lead up to the failure) was - Car started with old fuel and fuel filter, as was, from being stood, it was started every few months prior to that and was OK. Jumped from another car as the battery was kanackered. Started and ran perfect, settled down to a smooth tick-over and revved freely, left ticking over for half an hour. I week goes by. Bought a new battery and fitted. starts up fine but then starts to run lumpy (like it was only firing on 3 cylinders). The testing began... I week goes by. Still running on 3, out of frustration sprayed the whole engine and components in WD. Restored, running smooth, revving freely, then 5 mins later running worse than ever and wont really start, just chuggs the sneezes through the throttle. Another 4 weeks of research and testing. That's it, pretty much everything has been checked out, cant find anything wrong (well, anything that tests wrong) so, its change parts out time. Thanks for there suggestions but already covered all the easy stuff, most of the intermediary stuff, and some of the hardish stuff that I am capable of. Another lecture over
  4. Modified speakers? If so, water can leak around them from the inside of the door, dribble along the inner door seal and then, depending on the inclination of the car will dribble down in the footwell. It was this that ruined my carpets, so took them out and then decided to make my GTi a track car.. removed pretty much everything from the interior and sealed up the speaker holes with aluminium flashing :) Assuming you don't want to convert your Lupo into a track car I'd advise to use a bit of sealant around the speakers when you pull the lower door card off.
  5. Like above rebuilt my gti block recently and getting the coolant level dropping and air getting in the system, causing a overheat issue. Done everything on the motor all new, a friend said did I seal the water pump. As in the use of gasket sealant as a precaution. Could it be a dud water pump or could I have a crack on that area of the block? This block had a simular issue before being rebuilt but that was head and a cam cover being gone and air or exhaust gasses getting in the coolant.
  6. Hi, because I have exactly the same problem, how to fix it and how remove the carpet and finding the rear pipe? Many thanks.
  7. Either way it needs to be pulled out... There's a how to or something on here somewhere. Maybe in the gearbox thread? Have a search
  8. Ok, hmmm. I like tricky ones like this. it's either a fuelling issue or ignition fault (or both but unlikely). Let's eliminate what it won't be. ECU- I've never seen one fail. Plus you'd get no data access or a definite ECU fault code (they have built in self diagnostics). Not O2 sensor. Not knock sensor- only effective once hot and running. Throttle body (TPS). Would still start and run albeit in limp mode. Charcoal valve. Would run a bit lean. Injectors. They're tough usually. So bearing in mind that the car was parked and standing in storage for ages without being prepped, it's most likely a moisture related issue (or rodent nibbling- which I have seen a couple of times!). Most likely: Fuel pump fuel control relay Fuel filter (for these 3, try pulling off the fuel supply hose to the fuel rail- and under the rear seat connecting 12v to the pump supply line and see if you get a decent fuel flow. Handy to have an assistant to stop fuel going everywhere). ignition coil or module or whatever you call it hall sender (unlikely, but they do go very rarely- for these two pull off the plug leads and check for sparks on each plug- pull plugs out, rest them on an earthed point for circuit continuity-again, helper handy to turn ign key). Possible but unlikely: MAP sensor- you'd get a code plus engine should still start, but run rough. EGR valve stuck open. Would cough a lot and run very rich. But run with black plugs as a result. Actually it might be this on second thoughts. The valve central shaft may have corroded a bit making it sticky because it was in storage. Condensation and all that. Not sure which type is fitted on this engine. Could try disconnecting vacuum or power (you'll get a code but can clear it later), or unboltimg it and making up a simple blanking plate across the gas feed. Relays. Er, no easy way of checking other than sticking a meter on the outputs. And if you can do that, you may as well unplug them and examine on the kitchen table. But the main power relay that runs half the engine is known to go iffy, as is the fuel pump relay. All going on behind the fuse panel under the steering. Ignition switch. They can play up. But you'd see headlights not working at all. When on. End of lecture.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Car colours are so shite, grey, silver, black, white, It's a big deal if you see a red one these days. Back to the job in hand. Looks like the 1.0 MPi AER engine does not have a crank sensor as previously mentioned, so that rules that one out and explains why nothing was showing on the wiring diagram. At least I dont have to do that job as it looked a real B'stard. Attached some images from the Motronic 9.0 training manual So Back to the list, that one can be crossed off. Dizzy Halls sensor, told if this is bad then you dont get a spark?Knock sensor. told cant be this?Lamda/O2 Sensor, can this cause a car not to start?EGR Valve, can this cause a car not to start?Relays?Corrupted Knackered ECU, Fuel is getting to all cylinders.All injectors, but fuel is getting through?Fuel pressure regulator, fuel is getting through? Throttle body? In my view, its between the distributor and the ECU? Tried again today. Put everything back together, still the same, trying and spluttering but just wont run. Had the same two fault codes come up on connecting the battery. Both cleared and didn't return after numerous attempts at starting so I disconnected the battery and they returned. So these faults just come up on disconnection/re connection of the battery then clear. So no faults showing Ahhhhhhhhhhh! Its looking like its going to the breakers soon, just do not have any more time to mess around with it. Problem is. I know if I take it to a garage, which it will have to be towed, then they will only do the same as I have only charge lots of money.
  11. @mk2 thoughts on this? Waterproofing would be easy enough I assume. Or too much of a budge? Not so worried about a slightly higher pedal as documented with this fix.
  12. Also, is there a decent how to for pedal box removal? May try and tackle it tomorrow.
  13. Pedal box a dear do or? Hoped it may have been as simple as the lock nut on the cable being loose. Worth buying used or should you only buy new? Or if you can find that pic of where it breaks, I can probably have it welded.
  14. 100% pedal box. Especially if difficult to select 1st when running, stationary and cold. Every time you shift without fully disengaging the clutch, you damage the syncros... you need to sort it asap or you'll lunch the box too. Once sorted, flush, then renew the gearbox oil. Loads of crud will come out. SDI has a cable clutch. It works or snaps.
  15. Symptoms I'm having started today. Previously gear changes were notchy at times but associated that with oil more than anything for the box. But coming home from Leeds today the clutch pedals lower than the brake pedal, it's not fully engaging when I put my foot to the floor (car still rolling when clutch fully dipped) so I'm guessing the fact that it is an absolute b*stard of a job to get it into gear is down to the fact that the clutch isnt dipping. Suggestions so far have been slave cylinder, clutch hydraulic fluid or pedal box. Will try to check the fluid reservoir to see if its empty. Anything else I'm missing that it could be?
  16. Yes, can be welded (properly). I have a pic somewhere of where it breaks.
  17. These gearboxes can have synchro problems but its usually up and down from 3rd gear, which is the most used gear for the car but yours sounds more like alignment than the synchro's
  18. Hi , I've got a 1.4TDi and am having gear selection issues. The lever feels very stiff to move around the gate in neutral and when driving it will not go into the gear selected. at a standstill you have to put it into second before you can slide it into first to move off. Was wondering if a change of gearbox oil would make any difference ? If so what grade of oil do i need and what quantity ? TIA
  19. That's a big antenna on the roof! Must be a miniature model... My 3 SDIs are all boring colours.
  20. Last week
  21. No, Its Factory 'Mali' orange. Think the colour was only around for a couple of years and even less on the Lupo (less than a year I read somewhere around 98-99). Only ever come across one Lupo in this colour arround 10 years ago. Minichamps even chose this colour for their model of the Arosa
  22. That is gorgeous! Mmmm. Such style πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ˜€ And I've never ever seen an orange lupo. Ever. That's a first for me. Is it factory orange ir did someone respray it? Wow! Lots more pics of the orange lupo please. And inside. It might be a rarity (worth something). Just realised it's an Arosa! D'uh... πŸ™„
  23. Thanks, Its an AER. Looked at the PDF's of the VW training for the Bosch Motronic 9.0 and there is no mention of a crank sensor as in the wiring diagrams? Now I am confused as it must have one. Going to take a look tomorrow. Hope it will fix-up as its a great little low millage car in very good condition. The Ghia is a 71 with a 1600 twinport (as good as it got for original, 47bhp, 0-60 in 21 seconds, with a top speed of about 80 with the wind behind you, does around 25mpg) It's a matching numbers car with the original service book with dealer stamps in it up until 49,000 miles. Its now got 106,000 on which is believed genuine. Its my second, and I have owned this one for 6 years in January. It came over from California in the early 90's. I have this thing about Orange cars... Chris.
  24. Ones to updates T76DBW - Is L4UPO (Yellow 1.0e) V43RBW - Is L5upo. Its a mistake on this thread and will be corrected. New additions T58DBW T558BWL - Is L5UPO (Red 1.7sdi e) L6UPO - not related to Y948DWL Y948DWL - not L6UPO tdi - this was used as a long term test car for what car. Y951DWL S924OBY T56JEP Cup Car chassis 36
  25. Ok Here below is a full list of known press cars. Press Cars in 1999 3.1. T58DBW 3.2. T61DBW 3.3. T62DBW 3.4. T63DBW 3.5. T65DBW (Aka L6UPO) 3.6. T76DBW (Aka T51JEP, L4UPO Yellow 1.0e) 3.7. T558BWL (Aka L5upo, Red Lupo 1.7sdi) 3.8. T35DWL (L4UPO) 3.9. V43RBW (L5UPO) 3.10. V51RBW 3.11. V78UWL 3.12. L3upo (Blue Automatic) Press Cars in 2000 4.1. X42NFC 4.2. X904NJO 4.3. X907NJO (Aka Y907NJO) 4.4. L2UPO (Green 1.4s) 4.5. L3UPO (Yellow Colour Concept Sport) 4.6. L6UPO (Blue 1.4 Tdi) Press Cars in 2001 5.1. X554CBW 5.2. Y924DWL 5.3. Y937DWL 5.4. Y938DWL 5.5. Y948DWL 5.6. Y951DWL 5.7. OW51LCZ (Aka L5UPO) 5.8. L2UPO (Red Gti) 5.9. L2UPO (Black Gti) 5.10. L4UPO (Green 1.4) 5.11. L4UPO (Silver Gti) 5.12. L5UPO (Silver Gti) 5.13. L6UPO (Red Gti) Press Cars in 2002 6.1. OY02JCJ 6.2. OE02*** (Aka L2UPO) 6.3. L3UPO (Blue 1.4tdi) 6.4. L4UPO (Blue 1.4tdi Open Air) Press cars in 2003 7.1. OU03EZZ Press Cars in 2004 8.1. OX04AKJ (Aka L6UPO) The Misfits (The Cars that don’t quite fit) 9.1. S924OBY 9.2. S112JWN 9.3. T56JEP 9.4. W303WDB 9.5. L3UPO (Photoshopped SE) 9.6. Cup Cars (Chassis #36)
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