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The only way I could see to get my hands on the actuator was by removing the manifold and maybe even the EGR. However, since I had no idea were the actuator was located, I may be wrong in identifying the small bit, that was visible, as the actuator. Tomorrow I shall be downloading Elsawin and hopefully this will help me in locating it. By the way, was yours a 1.4TDi when you wiggled it with a spanner?

It is not impossible, you're just not trying hard enough. Sorry.

Thank you!

It was impossible to view or get access to the Turbo actuator. I took the Lupo for a boy racer short journey. Initially the engine was wimpish, lacking power. However, after a few punishing miles the power returned back to normal. Throughout the journey the Engine Error light never lit up. My guess is: normally I'm a Sunday driver, hardly ever going over 60 mph. Got a feeling carbon deposits built up causing a wimpish engine. Thrashing the engine on a short journey must have cleared the deposits.

Well, after sometime (holiday season in the middle), I got my car back, from the dealer I bought it at. Engine replaced, seemed to be the solution. According to him, cilinder 1 was doomed... Car had 116k km when I bought it, new engine with 122k km. It seems to run and work flawlessly now, hopefullt it stays like that 🙏🏻🙏🏻 Unfortunately I do not have any diagnostics steps to share with you guys, but appreciate everyone that took the time to give their opinion and provide help!

Forget about that, just get an emulator and problem solved, there is nothing usefull in second o2 sensor readings at all. I do not advice to waste your time and money on replacing it.

How much?!? OMG. Last time I bought one brand new 3 years ago, it was £9. (Nine).

I have sourced an ntk lambda sensor for about £150 so will update the post on Wednesday when it arrives

If you were going past Reading, would love to sort it for you. A car without rust should be kept alive.

I'll have a look into it but the few I have tried didn't wanna bother with it. I don't wanna sell it, it's all original and only had a couple marks on it. No rust and is straight. But I'm south west UK based. If I do decide it's gonna be too much trouble I'll get shot and will offer here first!

I look forward to it.

That sounds like a good option I've used the spacers on honda before but on the lupo what do you mean for the splitter in the exhaust manifold?

I will look at the pivot point, in a few days. I shall be back to tell the tale.

Location?

Wow. Sounds like you need a mechanically minded car friend...! Such simple small issues but devastating. You simply need someone to go to a breakers yard or used car parts specialist and get the bits you need, fit them just to have decent fully functioning car again. Grilles are available everywhere, as are used bonnet releases/catches. In the first instance, I'd be tempted to find a different small, independent garage where they're happy to use used parts. I wouldn't have gone back to the place you went to. There are a lot of smaller places that are happy to work on classic cars- that's the first question I'd be asking. Seriously, before thinking about getting rid of it, talk to a "new" place. Lupos (and Arosas) are really simple cars and generally are very easy to maintain and repair. The problems you're describing on your 1L beast are very typical, common and an easy fix (have a look through older posts describing the exact problems you've had). My first thoughts are coolant temp sensor, thermostat, crank sensor. Cheap and cheerful 😁 repairs.

With success many many times. I have found the pivot bearing to be stuck a few times. Good for the diaphragm.

Hey all! So I've had my lupo for around 4 years. It's had some issues but nothing serious, until last year. Started running lumpy, changed plugs and leads. Ran fine for a month or so and then just cut out on me during my drive to work. I then took it to a garage and they broke the bonnet release and said it was seized. They got it open got it running and wanted nothing more to do with it. (Apparently they don't fit supplied parts, they also couldn't get a complete latch and cable system from one supplier so didn't want to try fitting mis matched parts.) Fast forward another month or two and it died again. I called my breakdown cover who sent someone out and he could not get the bonnet open. He also noted the previous garage had taken the grill out to get access but not used any penetrating fluid and there were scratch marks around the latch. When I spoke to the garage they said I had consented to them getting access and that was the only way in, however they have cut the grill out completely. I do however still have the VW badge. Since then I've had no time to get it fixed and now it's out of MOT and won't start plus the bonnet is nigh impossible to open. I'm only slightly mechanically inclined so I don't know much and don't have any of my own tools, which means getting it fixed is a nightmare. What's my best plan of action? It's a lovely little motor and has passed every MOT before with only minimal issues. It's a 1.0mpi if that helps at all. But any ideas/information/help is much appreciated 👍

I think I know what RIch did. He probably used the spanner on the pivot point moving it up and down, which then pushed the actuator rod in and out and eventually freeing it.

There's a pivot... to a lever on the inside, controlling the bypass. And one on the outside connected to the actuator (the thing that pulls and pushes).

Rich. I have heard about turbo actuators problems on VW's. I am confused about using the 14mm spanner. The actuator rod moves in and out not up and down. I do not understand what and how you moved the rod up and down? I have seen new actuators from China for about £23.00 but as yet not looked at the car and was wondering if it worth getting one and how easy to install?

I have no idea, probably carbon. I have come across this stuck actuator fun a few times.

Thats even better!

@Rich what made it jam up? The weird thing is I've never come across a blown turbo on any of the variants (1.4/1.9). Vdub must have had sorted their turbines out back in the day, as I've come across a few with over 200k miles, still original and working just fine.

I found with mine the actuator on the turbo started playing up and I had to chop a 14mm spanner in half and wiggle it up and down for ages till it became freely moving. Harsh on the hands if I remember correctly.

When working on LPG cars, I used to be able to buy plug in Lambda emulator modules. They generate a signal that looks exactly like the output when the engine is running perfectly... Great way to trick the ECU.