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I’ll second that what MK2 said

Depends what you're trying to achieve as a final result I guess. I'd keep it stock until you get to know the car better, as it has a very short wheelbase. Which model did you get? Pics? Oh, and welcome to club lupo

Recently got my first car (Lupo) was wondering what the best maybe coilovers or lowering springs you lot have come across? Want it to handle well and don't mind how much just wondering what you lot have found best. Currently looking at bilsteins I know there a good brand but yeah thanks. 👍

AUB is drive-by-wire, right? Why don't you use the original throttle from AUB? The effective cross-section should be the same as for the ARC/AVY. A larger throttle does not work on the GTI's intake manifold and also causes poor response, for example. Is the Renault part larger in diameter?

With the new engine (new to me) installed, I tried to put as many kilometers on it to test everything was fine, but It doesn't... Every time I checked the engine bay was dry coolant residue on the joint of the coolant expansion tank. So I tested the head gasket and it was in the process to blow up, and 2500 km later it definetly blew, cilinder pressure went to the coolant circuit. So was time to park it, drain the coolant to prevent get inside the cilinders and oil sump, and repair it. I report the junkyard and they gave me 100€ back for that, enough to buy all the things required. Being a fiber gasket, the original one, and who know how much time was storaged, it rotted, and with fluids and pressure again, start to fell apart. I did the job in one single day, so I didn't resurface the head. After removed the head it's obvious what cylinder leaked. In the process everything seemed to be fine except one thing. Apparently coolant went to one of the bolt threads and get welded to the block, 4 nuts had to be welded to it until it start to come loose. Apart from that, everything went straight forward and managed to dissasembled, cleaned carefully with some fine razor blades, recut all threads and install again. Here you can see were the gasket fail and join the coolant space with cylinder pressure. Now I managed to put another 1700 km on it without problems. A tiny bit of coolant residue on the same spot, but for the moment I don't want to do a leak test, that's enough for this year, maybe I overfilled it. There is no sludge in the oil cap, no oil in the coolant and no hose overpressure. Hope it last, this car deserve one last dance on the Ring with propper tyres and pads.

I took some printscreens.

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I'm receiving the following error when trying to open the pdf, thanks This attachment is not available. It may have been removed or the person who shared it may not have permission to share it to this location.

The document is a pdf so you need to install a pdf reader.

Hi thanks for the code , much appreciated! The attached doc won't open for me however. Im gonna have a real good look in the tank tomorrow when i pull the sender again, who knows what's lurking in there

That was probably the cause. I don't think you need to change the sender unit unless there are other problems. Its code is 6X0919183B. I think a tank cleaning would do it a lot of good and would avoid such problems in the future. Just in case, I'm attaching some documentation. Removing and installing parts of fuel supply system.pdf

Traced everything back, replaced both o-rings with standard ones. The problem remained, Ive ran clear line onto the filter to pipe tank, still had more air than fuel. Pulled the sender and found it caked up with black sludge (diesel bug?) ive removed what appears to be a pre filter on the sender unit, cleaned it out and now have fuel lines full of fuel, very tiny air bubbles which is fine. Running fine again... I'm struggling to find a replacemet sender unit that matches his, he has a 2 pin connector unit. Tomorrow i might just modify the sender unit so it cant get blocked and keep changing the fuel filter more often? EDIT- ill try and get a part number of it tomorrow but if i can't find a replacement im gonna modify it so it can't get blocked up, fuel filters are cheap enough and easy enough to change

If it starts fine when fed directly from a diesel tank, as you did, then the problem is still in that area. Replace both o-rings with standard ones (you should find a separate set at any auto parts store so you don't have to buy a new filter just for these o-rings). If the problem persists, check the return hoses between the injectors and the pump and between the pump and the filter. Also look for any diesel leaks, they can be an indication that something is not tight there.

I spoke to soon, he went for a test drive today, and once again it will not start. I'm going to check to for air in the fuel lines again, as it was running fine the other day Hopefully it's just a fuel line thats perished and taking in air or something now

Is your TPS wired the right way round?

Hi everyone, I have a problem with my Lupo with the AUB 1.4 16V (100 hp) engine. I’ve installed a GTI intake manifold, a throttle body from a Renault, and an aftermarket airbox. However, I’ve noticed that the engine has a slow throttle response — there’s a noticeable delay when pressing the gas pedal. Could the reason be that I currently have the crankcase breather (PCV) disconnected? In the stock setup, it was connected to the original air filter box. If that’s the cause, what’s the best way to fix it now, since my new airbox doesn’t have a place to connect the breather hose? Cheers

Have Pm'd you

did you have any luck?

do you know if i can get the lower foglight grills?

does anyone know where i can purchase both left and right fog light grills for 2004 seat arosa i can only find the right grill coming from italy and i am in england. if anyone knows a supplier or has spares please let me know

Interesting ! and good to know, thankyou ! I am quite well versed in removing and refitting o-rings carefully. I recently changed the steering rack on my x-type and renewed all the seals :)) I'm going to order the blue o ring soon, as i had some spares the right size for the black one today, but not deisel resistant for the blue (pipe side) thanks for the info on the thermal valve, i will pass this onto my friend

I'll try and get some pics soon, it's a friends car, so would have to ask his permission. It's an 02 1.7 SDI thats faded red/pink at the moment, it will get a paintjob at some point it does have some pretty cool alloys though!

That is not a pressure limiter but a thermal valve. Its role is to introduce warm diesel fuel from the return into the filter up to a certain temperature (I don't remember exactly how much, I think around 30 degrees Celsius). After this temperature the valve switches the diesel fuel to the tank. The black O-ring is mounted towards the filter and the blue one towards the pipes. When removing them, you must be careful not to damage the grooves in which they are mounted.

Awesome! Pics of car?

car fixed! I hooked up and ran the pump on a seperate tank, car ran sweet as a nut. So i primed and changed the filter, also replaced the black air o ring on the pressure limiter as it was worn ( i will order the blue o-ring also). car fired straight up and sat idling whilst i put the engine cover and dash plastics back together. It will get test driven tomorrow, hopefully all is well. Thanks for the help and advice all :))