Leaderboard

Just the switch, no need to remove battery

If it's not too late. See to it that you have prepared a funnel inserted into a hose to collect the antifreeze

18k. Just not fair (178k).

Hey everyone! Quick update for you all. The good news, Otis has hit 18,000 miles (atleast that's good news in my eyes, he's out on the road!!) and he has had a heck of a wash, squeaky clean I say! Otis has had a new battery after realising he's been running slightly flat all this time.. reader was getting 11.8v on Ignition and about 13.6v on Startup! New battery is showing correct figures (On that note, perhaps I should consider a cover for the Fuse Box?) We initially thought this'd be the cause of these infamous warning lights (as shown below) but they shone like the sun even after the new battery had been installed. It's when we plugged in the scanner to find it is code P0571 (Brake Switch), so 'tis a cheap fix. I've read that they're a tad fiddly on VW's of this era but will cross that bridge when we get to it! Update on brake switch install to follow soon! Cheers

I did indeed and there was some electricity to the fuel pump! So figured had to be fuel pump. Replaced this and boom started first time! Thanks everyone. Will get fluids changed etc next.

Here's one, although currently out of stock: https://www.auto-doc.ie/optimal/8123463?srsltid=AfmBOorQZUUaTasZWX1IkETuZlf5H_rfk5MxxV6RlXgwGsTXxW0VT_Af Here is another pair: https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=lupo+3L+Querlenker&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_odkw=lupo+3L&_osacat=0 Stick with the original aluminium suspension. Conversion will be a nightmare. Previously I have paid for new arms because the seals were not available separately - now I know better. You should be able to find somewhere that can repair your arm. The 3L, FSi and GTi shared the same body which is completely different to that used with the remaining models. Thinner but superior steel was used. A useful tip: For those that don't know, the Lupo FSi was the first VW FSi. It was a 5L petrol version of the 3L. It had a different grill, no magnesium steering wheel but it did have rear titanium springs (the first such application)! RAB

Is your Lupo an FSI or a TDI? The FSI has a steel subframe, it's only the TDI that uses the Aluminium subframe, although on both the FSI and the TDI 3L have the lower ball joints as part of the wishbone. I don't have the measurements to see if a normal Lupo wishbone and a lower ball joint are the same size and distance from the subframe to the hub, but it may well be worth measuring yours and comparing to a normal Lupo to see if that's a work-around?

User Manuals: Volkswagen Radio Beta Car Cassette Player

Here: (grab a cuppa before starting to read it...) https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/41812-the-definitive-gearbox-thread/ There's also the definitive pedalbox thread. All the answers are in those

Make sure any single gear isnt easy to whitch in, especially the 5th gear. Also check if your Lupo isnt trying to drive in neutral. If one gear fails and stays engaged, you will have problems to synchronise other gears, and that will make it hard to switch in any other gear. The clutch should not make hard to switch gears, that case should only damage synchronisers.

Search 7E1823533, get one with a base if you need the axle too (any base will do, couldn't find a Lupo one)

Here: And here's the source: https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/63534-mending-cleaning-lupo-indicator-stalk-lever/

So a bit of a update on the Lupo Press cars. The missing L4 UPO silver GTi has been found. Unfortunately this car no longer survives. This is also the Max Power Lupo Gti too, this was confirmed due to it having red interior and the only car to have so. What I have also concluded is the two red and black photos of L2 UPO, I believe are photoshopped, the reason for this is due to timing in that at the time the photos where published, the car with said plate on them was a Silver Lupo GTi. It means that all the GTis have been traced. Also in other news, two more additions to the data base with is W241 EWL and W281 EWL. This one took a bit of detective work as evidence was found that a Vw Polo was registered on a similar plate (W227EWL), what proved it further was finding a picture of Jay Kay (Jamiroquai). Front man standing in-front of a Audi RS4 with the Reg W271 EWL proving a batch of W***EWL plates where ex Volkswagen Press.

The stag is very near me. Not sure when i will next go.

Time to bring some personal touches in

Yes it is same for a lot of VW, Seat, Škoda models Somehow I have not broken a single one and now Im afraid to do that 😅

Might be a faulty light switch unit? To remove it, press the switch in- and while pressing in, turn the switch on. This releases the switch from the holder Then pull it straight out. Then you can disconnect the wires and plug.

Hey all! As promised, update time. Power steering pipes didn't even need doing, and the shaft selector has been correctly adjusted. My gears feel so much nicer So, a cheap day indeed! Puts a good smile on my face always Hope everyone's having a great week!

Yeah, leave engine stuff. Change to higher gearbox ratios... way faster acceleration, but limited top speed. Exactly what @amgerizsays

Nice. I like that idiots still park them in trolley bays.

Time for an Otis appreciation post

Hey everyone! Otis has been treated to a set of new tyres, and in the same evening attended his first car meet!! B road at The Stag, if ya know ya know.. Went with my good friend, in his mk1 Eunos. Had such a lovely night, would highly recommend for anyone in the Kent/Sussex area! Stay tuned where next Thursday, Otis shall be getting new power steering pipes and gearbox adjustments

Hi mk2, Yes, i've got a couple that was send to me to see how bad she was damaged. The responsible racing pilot of this left without an autograph of course... The one from the back is from my archives

Hello fellas, I recently bought a 1.4 Lupo left hand drive and I've never heard an alert when I leave the lights on when doors open/key out of the ignition The inside roof light works as meant to be (turns on when key out of the ignition or any door open) but no alert is played when I leave mediums/presence light/maximums ON with ignition OFF/no key on it Any idea how to fix this? Since I have no idea if this has anything to do with the fuses, I'll post 2 pics of the fuse box (also, tell me if something is missing please) Thanks in advance!

http://knigaproavto.ru/shemy/en/volkswagen/lupo/25-volkswagen-lupo-fuse-box-diagram.html

HAZARD SWITCH / INDICATOR RELAY CLICKING ALL THE TIME I have basically managed to fix the annoying constant or intermittent clicking from the Hazard Switch / Indicator Relay. Yes the problem lies with a worn out contact in the Indicator Stalk or Indicator Leaver which I took apart, cleaned and soldered a very small nipple back onto the contact that had worn off. Without this little nipple making contact I guess the stalk was not turning the relay off properly. The following is how I did it and what tools I used. TOOLS: 1. 24mm Socket with 1/2 inch Wrench 2. Hex Screw Head Set 3. Flat Head Screwdriver 4. Phillips Head Screwdriver 5. Solder and Soldering Iron 6. Fine Emery Cloth 7. Wire Brush 1. Take off steering column Covers. One Hex screw and two Phillips head screws underneath. Then prize apart the 2 covers to remove. 2. Un-clip the airbag wire harness. It should be to the left of the column and holds the wires that rotate around the rear of the steering wheel. This is instead of disconnecting the battery. Be sure to reconnect on re-assemly!! 3. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL: - Insert key into ignition, and turn to the "on", but not "over" position (this will keep the wheel from locking). - Turn the wheel 90 degrees to one side. You will feel/see a small hole in the back. - Insert a small flathead screwdriver into the hole. Make sure the screwdriver is angled such that the handle is against the steering column, and the flathead is as high up within the hole as possible. Make sure to push the screwdriver in as far as you can. - Pull up on the handle. What you are trying to do is push down on a small spring within the steering wheel that holds the airbag locking latch secured. - You may have to try a couple times, but you will eventually see, hear, and feel the airbag catch release from the spring. - Turn the wheel in the opposite direction 180 degrees until you can see/feel the second hole. - Repeat the screwdriver procedure. - The airbag and horn should now be released from the steering wheel. However, Horn & Airbag still attached to their wiring harnesses. I managed to leave these connected and balance the airbag while undoing the steering wheel nut. Then the whole ting comes off together with wiring intact. Otherwise make sure to unplug the harnesses from the airbag and horn before you pull it out too far from the wheel. Be sure to reconnect on re-assemly!!. - Use the 24mm Socket to undo the Lupo Steering Wheel Nut and Steering Wheel will come free. 4. Un-clip the indicator wiring harnesses from left and right sides of the steering column. 5. Undo the 3 screws to free the indicator stalk from the windscreen wiper stalk and pul free. 6. Take the stalk to your cleaning area where you can arrange the bits we are going to dismantle. Don't worry as below should be pictures I've done to help you through dismantling and reassembly. 7. Undo the one screw on stalk case. Gently unclip the 3 little clips around the case. The case is still held together because of a copper terminal running through both halves of the case. You need to push the protruding copper prong back through its hole with a pair of pliers, being careful not to bend it. The case will prize apart now. 8. Basically we need to clean all terminals of grime and rub them clean with the emery cloth. 9. The main thing on mine was to re-solder a nipple onto the terminal / brush on the Stalk as shown in the picture below. P.S. These pictures are from my server so they may not be around for ever. I wish Club Lupo could host them!!!

This afternoon, I decided to sort my annoying clicking indicators and random wiper action. So I took some shots while I was working. Three hours will cover you working at a leisurely pace. Some pics to add... 🙂 Use a sharp blade or craft knife to shave a bit of plastic off. And to reassemble, do the exact reverse. The Airbag module slots in at the bottom edge then you simply press it in place till it clicks. Do not turn power on while airbag is disconnected. If in doubt disconnect the battery to be safe.

Hi all, With the info provided here, I've managed to upgrade the headlights on my Lupo Sport with the Philips H4 Vision Plus that I got on ebay for £15. I've put together the intructions for the job. It took me a good hour and as stated by J.K.Jr Bad, I would strongly recommend that you move the battery to do the light on the right (with you facing the car engine) and loosen the screws on the left head light. I've added some pictures as I did the job. note:I accept no responsibility or liability whatsoever arising from or in any way connected with the use of this content. INSTRUCTIONS 1) Open the bonnet border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 3) Move battery away from the back of the light unit. Refer to Pic:- border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 4) On top of the light unit, there is a metal clip, pull up to open the black cover. Refer to Pic (see arrow on pic):- border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 5) Remove the back cover and put it somewhere safe. Refer to Pic: border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 6) With the cover out, you will see the white connection block that is attached to the bulb. Using one hand to keep the back of the bulb in place, use the other hand to carefully pull the white block out. If you prefer, you could squeeze the two metal clips at the back of the bulb first to release the white block and the bulb and then separate the two but I found the first method a little easier. Refer to Pic:- border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS ON THE BULB. Keep the orignal ones for spares. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 7) To remove the bulb out of it holder, there are two metal spring loaded clips on the left and the right of the bulb. Squeeze them inward and the bulb will be forced away from the light unit. Carefully move the bulb out of the unit but mind the wires as there're all over the place. As I said eariler, DON'T TOUCH THE GLASS ON THE BULB. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 8) When putting the new bulb in, make sure that the wires are out of the way. The base of the bulb will have 3 little metal feets sticking out. When putting the bulb back in, you should have one feet facing upward and the other two on the left and right. Take your time with this as it can be alittle tricky. Once in place, put the spring loaded clips back and reconnect the white block. If the bulb feels a little loose, you can gently squeeze the spring loaded hooks so it will tighten the load on the spring with the bulb. 9) Replace the back cover and you're half way there ! 10) With the left light, you have got less room to play with as the pipes are in the way. You need to loosen the head light first. Please note that you will not be able to pull the headlight right out but it will give you a little more room. There are two screws that you need to take out. Refer to Pic:- border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 11) You will find various electrical wires that are wrapped in black flexi pipes that are clipped onto the body work. Undo these so you have got room to move the back cover of the bulb unit. refer to pic:- border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 12) Repeat the jobs for removing and replacing the bulb and remember to take your time. Put the battery back into ot holder and reconnect the battery. The bulb that I've got are Philips H4 Vision Plus (50% extra) and I was impress with the results, specially around in the dark country lanes. Cheers Dezamania

Can anybody post a how-to about changin the headlight/sidelight bulbs from scratch ie from opening the bonnet because i have had a look and it lookd tricky to me - a total useless ****** lol. I have some new coloured sidelights that I would like to fit but dont have a clue how to do it style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />! Cheers