Leaderboard

Thanks a lot, I'll check with the garage on Tuesday. Proud to be a part of it! Of course! Keeping mine original as you can seeq♥️

Fuel? As in not enough. Can you read live data while driving? Look at the O2 numbers. Else it also sounds like cam belt may have jumped a tooth. Cutting out is often crank sensor.

Photos re-hosted

You can remove the engine under tray and wing liners to check everything. You can see from below the car. You don't need to remove the wings and bonnet. I would check inside the sills for corrosion. You need to remove the rubber bungs to have a look. If necessary, you can spray more wax inside when it is dry. 👍🏻

Can't help with your questions but a warm welcome and that's a good looking Lupo.

There is a member on here who has a Gti with less than 3000 miles from new. There was another Japan import Gti that when it came to the country it had 3000 miles (checked the MOT history and that is now on 32000 miles WO04 ZHA) I did try and buy a sport about 10 years ago that had similar mileage to your car but unfortunately it had been agreed to sell to a family member.

Fitting the stalk The stalk that fits is from a VW Transporter T4 (part number: 7D0 998 527, retains at £65 inc. VAT) The stalk is almost a straight swap, however I found that after fitting mine it fouled the cowelling slightly. When pulling the stalk to flash someone it wasn't returning to its original position, and the headlights were staying on. The bit that catches can be seen here: You can see the slight difference between the CC stalk and the original stalk here: I used a modelling file to re-shape the cowelling and stalk so it doesn't touch any more: Remove the airbag and steering wheel and fit the stalk: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/troolad/30062008022.jpg Connect up the loom that came with the stalk and run it under the steering column. There is space under the steering column to mount the connector: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/troolad/30062008023.jpg (note how the wire colours change across the connector) http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/troolad/30062008024.jpg The stalk in place: Connecting the stalk to the custom loom A +12v feed is required for the cruise control to work, ideally this should be ignition switched. I chose to use the ignition switched 12v to the headunit since I have an aftermarket headunit and it was easy to get to. Alternatively, the heated rear screen button could be used. It may be a good idea to add an inline fuse as an extra precaution too. Now you have four wires from the stalk, four wires from the ECU and one 12v feed. The four wires from the stalk correspond with the four wires from the ECU (whatever colours you chose): White --> ECU 46 (for cruise on/off switch) Blue --> ECU 45 (for resume) Red --> ECU 44 (for Set) The +12v feed must be spliced into the fourth connection: Black --> ECU 14 (the +12v feed 'enables' cruise in the ECU and gives 12v to the stalk) Activating with VAG-COM Instructions for this can be found on the VAG-COM website. Also, the stalk comes with a booklet giving the activation code. The trial version of VAG-COM can be used to activate cruise. Basically: You can use VAG-COM to check the operation of the stalk be reading some measuring blocks. Reading measuring block 022 in the engine controller (ECU) whilst operating the stalk functions: 00000X Enable cruise 0000X0 Cruise on/off 000X00 Set 00X000 Resume Measuring block 006 in the engine controller will show 1.0 when the switch is moved to 'ON', indicating cruise is active. If VAG-COM shows correct operation of the stalk then thats it - installation is complete! Enjoy

I am not a mechanical engineer but something can be pulled off i think by using screws. Any ideas how to tighten up the door panel to stand in place when you put your arm on the arm-rest bit? Can i do it with screws, drill holes in the panel so screws can go trough instead of glue? Or there are purchasable parts that can replace the plastic bits that hold it?

Hi, I'm Cris and I live in Portugal. Three weeks ago I bought this Lupo as my daily driver. It has around 105 000 miles and it belonged the last two years to a lady. On the first day I drove 100 miles without a problem till the key was stuck on the driver's door ( fixed). And after two weeks the car stopped after appearing the oil light. ( I have done a basic maintenance oil(5w40) and filters). I believe the thinner oil helped💪🏻 It has oil and the coolant level is on the point. So piston rings,connecting rod covers( google translated), O2 sensor, spark plugs, oil pump, new clutch cable and clutch. Now I will begin my journey😅🤣 Waiting for the car parts to start the repair. Unfortunately we started with the wrong foot. So I am a car enthusiast for a few years, normally I like the small "old" cars that have some pedigree. My main goal is to keep the car as original as possible. The outside needs the 16v badge at the front grille and redone the back lettering (it's not straight) The inside I need to fix my seat( it doesn't flip the seat forward 🤦🏼) HELP New radio Upholester the steering wheel and side panels( original color) So my English isn't the best at all, I hope you all understand it💪🏻

Morning, I sent over the link to this thread over to the garage and they've been able to find some RTS ones. They ordered one and it fits so now just to order the other one and it should finally be back on the road!

Lupo drum clean and maintain is my Wednesday morning job ahead of MOT this week.

I've attached a few photos of the car during the rally. It's been amazing, and the amount of stuff you can cram into one of these is astounding, including a 240ah leisure battery and an inverter in the spare wheel well for unlimited tea, and a fridge😂. But 23 mpg flat out at 75mph is pretty dire, though, so looking to swap the engine for a diesel. In an ideal world, i's do a 3l swap to it as I love those engines and their fuel economy. But sadly, those engines aren't super cheap, and then manually swapping them after diesel swapping is quite a bit of work and uncertainty. So, as it stands, the plan is either the 1.4tdi or 1.7sdi. I've read that they both get similar mpg, but with the TDI being more powerful makes it the obvious one to go for. Despite this, though, I've got my eye on a crash-damaged 1.7sdi with the open-air roof that I'm hoping to convert mine to be open-air. I've also got my eye on a Lupo trailer that matches my car's colour, which I think would be pretty sick for shows and stuff. So I guess my question is: Despite being a bit gutless, is there any major reason not to go with the SDI? Is the conversion pretty painless if I have a donor car? And finally, has anyone got any experience with doing a Lupo pen air conversion and could give me some tips and tricks / fitting a towball to a Lupo? As it stands, here's my list of jobs to do to the car: install new coil springs in the front, Replace the rear suspension with stiffer ones from a Golf (would help with towing) Install a tow ball Open-air conversion, SDI swap it. As promised, here are some pictures of Lance's tour of Europe:

German Garden Takeover at The Stag! @lupo1.0se I heard there was a Silver Loop GTI here. Was it you? If it was, my apologies for getting here so late! Couldn't be bothered for the rush hour traffic so just left when it had died down, haha.

Not much... The Nankang NS-2R today cost 81€, the Toyo R888R 110€ and my next choice, the Yokohama A052, 116€.

Hey everyone! Surprise!! Otis got some Polo 6n steelies. Always liked the look of them, and though I initially wanted white steelies back when I bought this thing, silver has me on a lock! the whole body coloured thing is cool in my eyes. £50 for 'em.. not too shabby hey? They're not the best of condition, but still very impressive for the price. Had the tyres swapped as a couple months ago, I bought some new ones.. good thing the polo 6n wheels are the exact same size as thats saved me a lot of dosh! A good wash for them soon and it'll look top notch. Before and after down below

I would go fully custome and drill small holes in door metal, then line wood bolts thru door cards into the drilled holes. With 8 bolts it would hold better than original. There are many other options how to hold that door card in place way better than original, like using threaded river nuts, in my opinion, repairing stock mounts is the worst way to solve this problem.

It's been one hell of a work horse and I've got to be honest I've not been kind to it thrashing it around Europe fully loaded roof tent and all. I'll find some pictures from my camera roll and take a couple tomorrow when it's light and post them. It's definitely earnt some love so I'm goign to tart it up this summer and get it in good shape, hoping this thing lasts another 20 years. As for the timing belt it's had a new one a couple of years and about 20 odd thousand miles ago so should be good for a while. Or until I can afford the insurance on an engine swap.

I couldn't see any marking on the fly wheel but I could see the one on the camshaft gear. As you can see the engine is slightly out of time. What would be the easiest way to slacken the belt enough to be able to match up the top gear? Ik there's a tensioner I should slaken but I can't get the bottom cam cover off because one of the bolts is being blocked by the aux belt pulley. I could pull off the aux belt and try but I wanted to see what the consensus was on the easiest way. Thanks.

Depending on which gearbox you have, you can see the zero TDC marker on the flywheel through an access hole in the gearbox bell housing, at the top. Often it is under a plastic or rubber cover to keep dirt out. Put the car in top gear to turn the engine (by pushing the car). 👍🏻

I also changed the crankcase breather and pipe as I’d ordered it before it failed the MOT. It didn’t solve the emissions problem but I’m sure it wasn’t helping looking like this

Yes it is possible. The new coolant temp sensor also might be faulty. There are many that fail. You need to use diagnostics "live data" to check.

Do you reckon that should be the next port of call? If it’s stuck open (which I assume to be the case) then the engine would run rich and lead to higher emissions and fuel use?

I don't know if the poster is still looking at this topic, I have successfully replaced the springs. I shortened the spring inner for the GOLF and installed LUPO springs. It is working fine.

Greetings from Finland

I don't really know yet🤣😅 the car has a lot of issues unfortunately. The car parts should arrive this week and I found some oil leaks underneath the car🤦🏼🤦lucky me

Thats the most expensive reason to disassemble your car. You can apply to work at breakeryard for a day.

Recently i changed my radio. Although it works, the metal frame from the previous radio stayed because i didn't know how to remove it. Now it looks like this without the possibility to go all the way in. Is it possible to remove and how, the old metal frame and put the new shorter one so the new radio can fit properly?

The old one should come out if you bend the pushed-down tabs back up. When you install the new one, push the tabs down to lock it in place

Nice car! Welcome to Club Lupo

Excellent. I'll message them. Thanks 👍🏻

I used a giant screwdriver I had where the handle would fit in the plastic groove.

And on today's episode of quite little fixes.. I replaced the gaiter all by myself! May be a simple job but I am quite thick when it comes to cars.. let alone common sense! XD Comparison down below So happy with the result!

Hi fellow Lupo owners! I have imported a 1999 VW Lupo into the United States. Without any dealer support or information on the vehicles easily accessible to someone living in a different country that was never intended to have a Lupo driving the streets, I’m looking for some help/advice. I currently work with VWoA so I’m familiar with vehicles and not a total newbie. My question is I’d like to add a spoiler to the rear hatch of my car. Is this the only OEM spoiler available and will it fit my car? I’ve attached photos of my Lupo. https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_global/part/6E0827939B GRU I’m open to suggestions as well. I’m also in the market for OEM Lupo wheels if anyone has any info on that? Thank you! -Tim

You'll have to look around... Translate tools might help too. You could start in the UK, as at least the language won't be a barrier. Search something like "Volkswagen breakers yard" or "breaking Lupo GTi ". That sort of thing. Spain has lots of crashed Lupos in yards, mostly rust free, but typically the paintwork is in poor condition (UV damage). Chances are you'll need to respray whatever you find anyways. 4 in the US now; Excellent! Looking forward to seeing pics of the first US based Club Lupo meet! And then one day perhaps a Lupo cruise?

I meant replace the old frame with this new one

Thank you guys for the welcome! Mk2 it definitely gets attention wherever I take it. I know of 4 Lupo’s including mine in the USA. I was wondering how the break light situation would work with a spoiler. The link I attached is for the Lupo FSi spoiler. Any good recommendations on breaking yards in Europe? I have scoured eBay for anything I could find already. I’ll definitely look into the rustproofing. Thank You!

Update: I got a exhaust on the way from the guys at Hornet exhausts!! Otis shall be sounding bumbly.. excuse the pun It is a catback system so no alterations to the manifolds, just plug and play! I'm gonna get it installed the same day as the springs, seeing the car's gonna be up on the ramps anyways. Looking forward to a fully transformed Otis!

Good news, the new head light switch did the job

Hi mates Just got a mint 2005 vw lupo 3l with 40k km new paint and all for my girl and we wanted to upgrade some stuff. The radio is already an aftermarket cheap unit, maybe the worse i've used and the display screen is destroyed. My question is, how should I proceed with opening the plastics? I tried to start by taking the radio's "under pocket" off but doesn't seem to come out, should I take the big plastic frame that surrounds de radio and vents first? Also the interior ceiling light isn't working so we need to change bulb, how can I take it off? Seems really tight up there as well. Not forcing anything because the car is in such good condition, I wouldn't like to mess it up, that's why I'm asking such basic stuff. Left some pictures in the atachments, would really appreciate some help, thank you in advance :) .

Unlucky man.. they just weren't meant to be.. one will come your way one day I'm sure!

Magnets? Neodymium glued onto the door card and stuck to the door... They can be really strong.

I understand your point about the reconditioning, but I wouldn't want to recondition the arms every time. Has anyone ever converted the suspension on a Lupo or Lupo 3l from oem to a Golf 4 or Golf 3 or VR? Thank you.

Most garages/workshops have spring compressors. Hey, even I do. Can't really see why you have to wait so long. Takes about 45 mins for the fronts, about 5 mins for the rears (don't need a compressor for the rear). If you take the rear shocks out (you don't need to), it's worth swapping the rear bump stops. I fit old 90's Passat stops, which you can pick up for £5 for a pair (eBay).

Ina lifters. Soak for as long as possible. Male sure all is sealed nicely and that oil drains back to the sump without any goo in the drain holes. Clean oil channels as much as possible. You know it all leads to doing the belt and water pump as well since it's kinda off.

Just to close this out. I did replace the cat to get through the 2024 MOT, probably stupid but i'd ran out of time. After that I plumbed in an oil catch can and with a spirited drive before this years test she passed without needing anything else. Thanks for everyones help!

Yeah, it happens to every Lupo... Even worse is when the moulded clips break, then the only solution is to glue the retaining clips. And their position is important when you glue them back on. I use polyurethane rubber adhesive. They break when you lean on that ledge that the electric window switches are mounted on. I've had an idea how to prevent it happening, by mounting a strip of something on the top of the door so that the door card panel hooks over it, like on Golfs. I haven't tried it yet. I broke one of my door cards (again...) a couple of weeks back.

I thought i'd mention this. You may be to go the manufacturer and ask for a Certificate of Conformity. More details below. I suspect a 1.0ltr arosa would meet this of any age. https://motorway.co.uk/sell-my-car/guides/cetificate-of-conformity-ulez

Just closing this thread in case it helps someone in the future. My issue was Relay 109—I bought a new one from VW for 39 euros in Belgium (including taxes). To note, the injection pump at the front of the engine is practically "bulletproof," so if your car used to run great, the problem is most likely electrical. Check the replies above for guidance on diagnosing your issue. Special thanks to everyone who has helped me from the start of my journey with my SDI!

I have "elephant snorkle" mods on every engine I own. Even my lawn mower. Sump gases are so bad for an engine it's crazy. Simple length of 20mm cable flex conduit from the breather outlet down towards the chassis rails under the car cures all evils. A bicycle handlebar bung works a treat to block the airbox inlet hole. To make the car run leaner is tricky, because the ECU is monitoring the O2 sensor, checking the mix all the time while driving. Unless you make yourself a O2 emulator circuit, so you can forcibly trick the ECU to make the mix richer or leaner. Could try a small gap somehwere on the vacuum side. Perhaps even one of the vacuum lines? I guess you might be able to let some air in bit by bit (when it's warmed up), until it throws a code.

Put forward a statement of intent and pictures of your current Lupo and it will be considered at the next committee meeting.