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2 points
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Hmm, still not sure how to unscrew the roof from the car, but I might not need to do it. When I removed the roof headlight inside the car, just below the roof mirror, the motor that is moving the sunroof back and forth, contained its own unwinding metal bit. This meant i could unwind and rewind the sunroof manually and close it tight-shut. I am guessing it was leaking inside the car just because the motor broke and wasn't able to close the roof completely although you can hear it working. It seems, the inner bit of the sunroof is closed compartment and it doesn't have those so called channels in each of the four corners of the car. I think this is why the leaking stopped when I closed tight-shut the sunroof manually. Also, un-pluged the power supply cable from the motor so I don't try to open it by pressing the buttons inside the car by accident.2 points
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Hi everyone! I would check for fuel and spark. With key contact you need to hear the fuel pump relay on the fuse area and the pump from behind, and when it achieve work pressure they must stop, if not, there is no fuel pressure in the injection ramp. If it's fine take one old spark plug, and try to plug all four leads on it one by one, while the steel body is touching the engine, and crank it searching for spark. If there is no spark I would try a new crank sensor. That's a good start. If everything is fine i would continue trying all four injectors mounted on the ramp but out of the engine. Next I would try to borrow or buy a vagcom cable and software. Cheers!2 points
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Hey everyone! Otis has been treated to a set of new tyres, and in the same evening attended his first car meet!! B road at The Stag, if ya know ya know.. Went with my good friend, in his mk1 Eunos. Had such a lovely night, would highly recommend for anyone in the Kent/Sussex area! Stay tuned where next Thursday, Otis shall be getting new power steering pipes and gearbox adjustments1 point
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Hi mk2, Yes, i've got a couple that was send to me to see how bad she was damaged. The responsible racing pilot of this left without an autograph of course... The one from the back is from my archives1 point
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The bolt holes in the headlight unit are slotted exactly for that reason. My method is to fit them finger tight, hold the rest of the body panels in place and gently move them to the right spot, then tighten properly. You can do it again by removing the bumper to access the two bolts at the front. Yeah it's a pain.1 point
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Wow. Sounds like you need a mechanically minded car friend...! Such simple small issues but devastating. You simply need someone to go to a breakers yard or used car parts specialist and get the bits you need, fit them just to have decent fully functioning car again. Grilles are available everywhere, as are used bonnet releases/catches. In the first instance, I'd be tempted to find a different small, independent garage where they're happy to use used parts. I wouldn't have gone back to the place you went to. There are a lot of smaller places that are happy to work on classic cars- that's the first question I'd be asking. Seriously, before thinking about getting rid of it, talk to a "new" place. Lupos (and Arosas) are really simple cars and generally are very easy to maintain and repair. The problems you're describing on your 1L beast are very typical, common and an easy fix (have a look through older posts describing the exact problems you've had). My first thoughts are coolant temp sensor, thermostat, crank sensor. Cheap and cheerful 😁 repairs.1 point
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Just changed the petrol filter on our 53 plate 1.4 Lupo. I cannot find it in the service schedule, we have had the car nearly 8 years and were not aware that it was not being changed at service intervals. We discovered it when fitting the towbar before christmas, a search of its history shows it was last done 9 years/30,000 miles ago. The garage that did the job yesterday said that it started to disintegrate when being removed and had black liquid when drained. Anyone not aware of this potential oversite might want to think about having a look (its on the offside rear)1 point
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Since it's a crappy non starting one litre I would do as I always do and start by sucking the vacuum pipes and checking the one way valves etc are working. I hate auc engines.1 point
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@mk2 nicely worded!! What I would do to add to that is air intake pipe off and ‘chuck a grenade in it’ with some easy start, or squirt some ‘premium’ high octane petrol down the plugs then start it. Although OP says all the electrics are back and working, does that include spark plugs too?1 point
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Classic stored car syndrome. But not a problem. @Rich @lupogtiboy @ObjectiveAway @tigcraft @Adam Meader @amgeriz what do you think? You know when you burn petrol you get CO2 and water vapour resulting from the combustion process, if the engine was started regularly but not driven, the trapped condensation (water vapour) coats everything inside the engine when it cools down again. And the inside of the engine being steel (cylinder liners), they start to rust. As do the valves and the piston rings. And the exhaust system. So the piston rings get stuck, the valves don't give a perfect seal and the rough corroded surface of the cylinders also prevents a good seal. So when you try starting the thing, you get no compression and as a consequence no firing up. Changing all the components/filters/oils won't make any difference (I'm assuming you have a good fresh fuel supply and ignition sparks in the plugs). What usually works is to pull all the plugs out and put about a teaspoon or so of clean engine oil into each hole. Then spray a five second squirt of WD40 mist or similar in there to try and create a temporary seal on the valves. Leave the plugs out and crank away for 20 seconds every five minutes over an hour. You're trying to coat all the internals with oil and free up the stuck rings. Keep the battery on charge and don't burn out the starter motor. Then replace the plugs, cross your fingers and try starting it again. Garage door open as there'll be LOTs of smoke and noise. Crank with wide open throttle (if your engine is manual cable throttle) to try and get max compression. If it starts firing, keep cranking with your foot on the throttle until it runs by itself, but do NOT rev it above 1500. As you could permanently wreck the engine. You're trying to get the internal surfaces to make friends again. Hold it at 1500 until the engine fully warms up. Don't just switch off when done. When it's nice and hot, rev it up to about 3000 and hold it there- then switch off and then take your foot off the throttle with the engine still spinning fast. The idea is to keep the engine spinning, with no fuel or ignition to get the bores and lower pistons rings fully coated with oil. Allow to fully cool down, then see if it starts first time. If not, you'll have to do it all again and then take it for a good motorway run for about half an hour. You may also want to change the belts, change the brake fluid and flush the gearbox 👍🏻 And wipers. And coolant. End of essay. let us know how you go.1 point
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Take it off, drill a hole in the other end and swap ends... That actually works. Drill the hole slightly too small or it will fall off again. 👍🏻 .1 point
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I think BLIC is made in Poland, they are great because they make a lot of needed aftermarket parts for cheap.1 point
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A question for the experts out there. Just been looking for a couple of new front subframes to keep as spares and noticed that there are quite a few on Ebay. Brand new. Part number 6X0199315F. Cheap too- £90 delivered. "Tried" to ask a few questions from the various sellers- who don't speak good english which got me investigating, as they claim to be in the UK. Then on companies house site they turned up as registered in China...! So this got me thinking- Are vdub making some sort chinese only model car based on the 6N Polo or our 6X Lupo (Arosa) that isn't available over here? I know our cars use a lot of (new) older model components from the mk2, Derby, Polo and even the old air cooled beetle- all just "re-partnumbered". There might be even more brand new parts to keep our cars going for much longer? (They still make the 1.7SDI engine for use in big site generators and marine engines. Not that I'll ever get close to the known worn out at 500k miles or 15,000 hours.)1 point
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Today, Otis got given the Lanoguard treatment by yours truly! I wanted to treat the rear subframe in particular, as it's looking far more tatty than anything else under the car, so took a wirebrush to it to get the worst off, and applied a couple of coats of the stuff along said rear subframe. Upon laying underneath the car, I notice the centre of the subframe is almost rust-free! It's just the corners. It's looking very good and i'm very proud of myself1 point
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When you have done it, tell us how with lots of pics! Those sunroofs are rare in the U.K. 👍🏻1 point
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Hello, had mine leaking for several years, even after changing for one in a better condition. Just found out today that with age the vinyl tend to shrink, causing the cable/roof not to overstake the external rails, as it shows on the pictures you posted. So if you are (still) looking to swap it, make sure the outer border nicely overlaps, otherwise you will end up with another leaking roof like me... I am currently looking/open for alternatives as from now such a second hand roof are hard to find.1 point
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I had a similar issue a couple of months back with my SDI. Restarted, light + buzzer returned initially, but now nothing. Nothing logged on a basic OBD2 tool. I understand it’s a single wire on/off switch system that doesn’t go through the CPU. Initial light on and off is apparently a systems check (how?). Potentially could be either an actual low pressure issue (mechanical) or the system thinks so (electrical). Methinks oil pressure relief valve should open when the oil is cold (despite being, say, 10/40) but closes and stays closed once warmed up with the oil thinning. Mine had been run a number of hours before light came on so hopefully would have already been closed for a while. Suggest if it sticks open it would show symptoms when partially warmed up. Tappets - would have thought the valve spring pushing against the cam will try and empty the bucket when there is no oil pressure and the engine turning, so as a total guess maybe within a minute or so, say by the time you’ve pulled up. Contamination fleckles on the oil side of the switch (or in the gallery) can apparently cause switch malfunction. Wiring - loss of signal is a potential. The loom underneath the battery tray is apparently a place to look, but I would have thought any of the connections in a hot engine bay also. Has been suggested to run direct from switch to dashboard if needs be. Agreed the first port of call would be to change the switch and see if that sorts the issue. Should go out with extra rpm potentially.1 point
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Changed my oil filter the other day and as I didn't knock up a How To last time, figured I would now. It's real easy on an SDI but worth running through this if you're a bit nervous or are not sure. There isn't much you can get wrong though and once you've done it once, it'll only take you half an hour next time, at most. The cheapest I've found a garage doing a change is £47, and that's using budget semi-synthetic oil. This way, you have a choice what you use and thanks to the recent Christmas offers on service parts and oil, this change cost me just £15! A decent saving I'd say!! 1. Take the car for a short drive, 5-10 miles should be enough, then let it idle on the drive for 10 minutes so it's nice and warm. 2. Get the car in the air. Chock the back wheels using something safer than wood... whoops. 3. Get a suitable container to catch the oil in. These oil drain pans are 'disposable' (I just cleaned them after) from the local trade shop (I suggest getting two, you'll see why later). Position one under the sump drain. Crack the sump plug using your ratchet tool, it's a 19mm socket if I remember rightly. Remove it slowly with two fingers. Let the sump plug drop in the drain pan, in my opinion, that's the best way of avoiding major spills rather than trying to move it away which tends to result in oil splashing over the drive and your hands. Wear gloves, oil is carcinogenic and it's bloody messy. I suggest letting it drain for at least 5 minutes, even though the majority of oil will be out within about 60 seconds. I put a bottle of Forte Flush in before this oil change, there were visible chunks of KFC dropping into my drain pan lol. 4. Move the now full drain pan somewhere away so you've got more space and you won't knock it. You need to remove the undertray to access the filter. There are two 10mm bolts near the bottom centre and two nuts, one on the upper left side and one upper right side. Remove all 4 and it should drop, although you might need to give it a pull. I didn't take a photo of this part, but it's pretty obvious really. 5. Locate the old oil filter and move your second clean drain pan under, save any unnecessary mess. Removing the filter can be a pain and as I don't have a proper tool. This time was particularly difficult! I had to use a chisel + mole grips + 2ft tommy bar to get enough leverege to turn it just enough so I could finish it off by hand. However, I've been advised that one of these is perfect : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-LEG-2-WAY-OIL-FUEL-FILTER-WRENCH-63-102MM-DUAL-DRIVE-REMOVAL-TOOL-REMOVER-/331096078052?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d16dd36e4 So I've bought one for next time. Sorry about the awful photos, but it's hard to take a photo one handed, upside down lol. 6. Wet the gasket on the new filter with oil and screw it on, hand tight will do. Refit the undertray, make sure each lip at the front overlaps correctly. Fish the sump plug out of the first oil drain pan and wipe it off. Officially, VW say replace these every oil change, but tbh, I change mine every couple of oil changes, maybe 2 or 3. I check the threads and I check the washer and if it looks okay, I put it back on. I'm yet to have one leak, touch wood, perhaps I'm pushing my luck. For peace of mind though, just change it, they're only a couple of quid off ebay. As far as I'm concerned though, so long as it drops in the oil drain pan, and you don't crossthread it, you'll be alright reusing it a couple of times. Drop it on the floor though? It's scrap. Keep one spare just in case. 7. You need 4.7 litres of oil. I use 5w40 fully synthetic conforming with 505.00 spec. Here's the VW recommendation: Now, seeing as I don't always replace the sump plug, I usually fill it on the ramps, let it settle, start it, leave it idling 5 minutes and check to see if there's any leakage from the sump plug. Obviously if you've fitted a new sump plug you don't need to worry. No doubt someone will tell me I shouldn't do this but I can't see why it's a problem and I've not experienced any issues yet. Once confirmed it's all okay, drop the car and you're good to go. Hope this is useful for anyone considering DIY'ing it, and don't forget to dispose of your waste oil properly.1 point