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  1. I'm pretty new to the forum, just wondering if a meet has been arranged before? It would be great to get a decent amount of Lupo's in one place.
    2 points
  2. Hi guys and girls joined today. Have just bought 2 Lopos, one for me and 1 for my son. We are going to do them up together. mine, yellow, is a 1.4 his 1.0. look forward to learning lots along the way
    2 points
  3. I can see it costing a few quid unless you do what Mk2 said. I bought a second hand box to rebuild, it was £250 as I have a Lupo 3L (special 5th gear otherwise computer errors on that) and I had lost 3rd gear due to a selector fork breaking. Should be a lot cheaper now for a normal Lupo. Wait until you get a well looked after box and throw some new bearings in it for good measure. I have been running with the used box not rebuilt for 3 years now, with the straight 80w90 non synthetic oil. Dodgy boxes last a bit longer with non synthetic in my view, you can tell they are running a bit quieter too, but sometimes they won't shift properly when cold so feed the lever in slowly and hold it until it engages properly, not a problem in summer. I plan to TIG weld the selector fork and refit the old box when the clutch needs doing. There is a Gearbox and Clutch centre in Melksham if you google it. You never know they might fit the kit off ebay for £300 if you get the one with decent bearings, (SKF etc). They won't want to fit Chinese bearings if they are any good.
    2 points
  4. UPDATE TIME: nothing really to report which is good! MOT time next week , 2nd in my ownership so should fly through got a couple of tyres going on it tomorrow. also did a nice deep clean ready for its duties again a lot of it was superficial - looks manky in my book - also wiped down all the plastics and stuff , and coated in autofinesse. Nice and satisfying BEFORE
    2 points
  5. UPDATE: Went to shropshire at easter to visit the parents, and decided to take the LUPO. Call it a test to see if i could actually take it to germany. Long story short did 375miles on a tank before the petrol light came on. Cruised on the mway between 60-70 , so defo different to taking the beemer haha. Did 67mpg calculated from fill up to fill up so im happy that the little car seems perfect! Now this gives me ideas to retrofit cruise control.. hmmmm
    2 points
  6. Thank you so much for your help and advice. This is how my weekend panned out... I eventually managed to remove the air intake box by disconnecting the main air inlet hose that attaches to the lefthand side of the intake box and sliding the box backwards so i could remove the restrictor trumpets. Once the restrictors were out, i could lift the box off the manifold. The restrictors and the box were all covered in thick black tar. I was able to clear most of the mess out of the box and pipes using some heavy-duty paper towels. There is still a thin layer of the tar all over the inside of the box and some in the pipes which i couldn't quite clear out. I intend to get all of this cleaned when I get a nice weekend. So that was my first job (half) done. With everything back in place, I started the engine. It ran for 2-3 seconds and died! Next, I decided to blank the EGR and its vacuum hoses. (at this point I assumed I had nothing to lose). I eventually removed the lower bolt that holds the EGR and also the dipstick with some penetrating oil and a pair of heavy mole grips (and some offensive language). The EGR was so caked in exhaust crud that i was unable to move the valve with my thumbs. I decided to just blank it off rather than clean it and have it poison my intake for a second time. I made a crude blanking panel by taking the EGR gasket into the kitchen and used it as a stencil to draw round on the bottom of a cake tin. Then snipped a new gasket (minus the hole) out of the cake tin and reinstalled the original gasket together with the new blanking gasket between the EGR and the manifold. I also blanked the exhaust inlet with a 2 pence piece and tightened it all back together. (after all this, I also elephant-modded the CCV with a dishwasher waste hose). So, expecting nothing good to happen, I sat in the driver's seat and turned the key. It started running roughly and, after a minute, calmed down and started ticking over normally. After 2-3 minutes, most of the smoke had died away and I decided to see if it wanted to actually move. It pulled away very reluctantly, stalling a couple of times but kept re-starting and getting more and more revs and distance after each start up. Then it just carried on going and the smoke gradually disappeared completely after about a mile. I drove back home to check my work. Both the front-end and back blanks on the EGR we holding firm and airtight, with no leaking gasses and the elephant was still in position. Since Sunday afternoon i have driven about 90 miles and the Lupo drives like a new car! Much more pull than before and what looks like better MPG. I really need to remove the inlet manifold completely and give it a damn good clean because there's still some of the EGR/CCV crap in the holes which i didn't want to try and clean while the manifold is in position incase I drop any of it into the valves. And also because the lack of CCV vapour might cause the sludge to dry out and pieces of it to break off and get sucked into the engine. I don't actually know if that's possible??????? To conclude... I wouldn't have had the knowledge or confidence to do what I did if it wasn't for ClubLupo, so thanks for creating this brilliant website!!!!! BTW - does anyone have a step-by-step walk-through guide on an SDI cam belt change??? Peace!
    2 points
  7. I will know tomorrow once I go pick it up. Once I know I will post it so we all know for future reference.
    1 point
  8. Didn't you say that after the ECU had been changed it initially made no difference, which is why we were looking at temp sensors and stuff...?
    1 point
  9. Gearlink in Salisbury are pretty good👍
    1 point
  10. As far as I know, it has a throttle sensor?
    1 point
  11. Where built 03/04 is when it changed.
    1 point
  12. I believe its model year.
    1 point
  13. Why are you breaking it? This car has been on a downward spiral since Danno sold it.
    1 point
  14. Wipers and scuttle off. Battery off. See two power wires of decent thickness, maybe black/white or red? Nip into them and just put a 12v live to the battery. Fire the car up. Don't question the magic, just stick it on a switch to a 12v live in the cabin and fix the problem without stripping a lot out. Switch is because it will drain the battery. Relay easy enough but will require more skill/knowledge.
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. That's a @Rich special that is Or maybe @RAB? Can't remember...
    1 point
  17. I only fit the lemforder (to my own)
    1 point
  18. Yeah usually a leaky head gasket. But. It could be that everything is just fine and they simply didn't flush the cooling system properly after reassembly. Depending on how much oil there is, bung in a dishwasher tablet and drive around like that for a few days. That should dissolve away the oil. Once cooled down, check if there's any oil still floating in the header tank. If there is, bung in another tablet and repeat... Once there's not a trace of oil on the surface (when cold), drain the system completely- when the thermostat is open. So loosen off the lowest hose in the system, so it's easy to just pull it off. Warm up the engine without the coolant filler cap on. Then when the fan comes on, carefully, without burning yourself, pull off the hose and dump the coolant and gunge that comes out with it. Turn off engine. Allow to cool down, refill with fresh water and repeat until the water that comes out is clear. Then seal the bottom hose, add fresh antifreeze (purple or pink) and top up with deionised water. Good to go for another 5 years But if oil reappears after a few days, then you have a leaky headgasket. You could try retorquing the head, as the seal that fails is the pressure feed to the valve assembly. Usually made of copper or a soft metal if it's a quality gasket. Crush it down a bit more. And welcome to club lupo 👍🏻
    1 point
  19. The rubber bushes are the most time consuming job... I've also noticed that only branded bushes last.
    1 point
  20. This is a brief list of items to check or inspect before or after buying a Lupo (or Arosa). Second attempt! Put together from lots of contributions from @Skezza, @Rich, @RAB, @Sausage, @lupogtiboy, @Little tank, @C3peteo, @MattyB, @Blue Loop, @battlebus, @danno It's not a how-to fix it guide, or what has caused a particular issue identifier thing. Just stuff to look out for, that happens a lot on various models. So for example, if your wheel has fallen off, that's not a common problem and wouldn't go in this post Please feel free to add any items that we've missed. I know for sure there are more that we hadn't thought of at the time of posting. Covers: Tdi Sdi Gti 1.4 8V 1.4 16V sport 1.0 (not FSI) All trim levels E, S and sport, with 'fun' variants like "cat and mouse", "cambridge" etc. ------- Rust: Roof channels Rear arches Rear suspension beam Front sills (behind arch plastic cover if never cleaned out) Front subframe Power steering swage crimps Suspension springs & cups Anti roll bar Brake pipes Brake hose swage crimps Exhaust system behind/after cat Wear or common items (not including normal stuff like brakes): Pedal box (not Gti or Tdi) Gearbox bearings (only 085 type) Front wheel bearings Door check strap pins Driver's door lock barrel Rear wiper motor/squirter Alternator brushes/regulator Suspension rubber bushes (all) Steering rack ball joints Lower suspension arm ball joints CV joints (mostly left hand side) Front tyres (caused by cowboy suspension work) Rear shock absorber bump stops Wing mirror adjustment controls Heating air direction deflection controls Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder Rear washer pipe joint (separating) inside LHS rear wheel arch Upper door card/panel clip failure (around lock pin) Automatic gearbox (due to neglect- no fluid/filterchanges) Electrics: Electric window motors Electric window switches (water ingress) Ignition switch Lights switch Indicator stalks Central locking mechanism/sensors ABS sensors Main engine/ECU power loom relay behind fuse panel Blower fan speed control resistor pack Engine cooling fan motor Engine: Coolant temp sensors Throttle position sensors Ignition modules/coils Ignition leads Crank timing sensors Coolant thermostats EGR valves Glow plugs Camshaft lobe wear (only on 3 cyl diesel) Coolant flange "O ring" leaks Valve cover seal oil leaks Piston rings (on poorly maintained petrol engines) Clogged oil breather/inlet/egr ducting Breather pipe heater (gti) Water ingress Leaks: Bonnet cable release seal in fresh air plenum Door membranes not resealed after cowboy repairs Pop out windows seal Hatchback seal Hatchback electrics flexi duct seal Rear light clusters to bodyshell seal Windscreen seal (after cowboy window replacement) Common damaged items (cowboy garage work): Door seals behind door cards/panels Door cards/panels Under engine trays cracks/loose/missing Engine electrics, incorrect loom routing Engine electrics, missing loom securing clips Engine electrics, damaged cables & connectors Headlight clips/covers/reflector damage Plastic cam belt cover damage/missing bolts Engine dressing cover damage/missing bolts Battery fuse cover damage/cracks Exhaust mounting points missing Shock absorber boots damage/incorrectly fitted Jacking points severely dented/damaged/rusty Poorly installed aftermarket hifi
    1 point
  21. I've just bought a pair of febi ones for 37 quid off ebay.
    1 point
  22. I found out the hard way
    1 point
  23. UPDATE TIME: Another year , another MOT In the end we got a PASS! Wahoo... It first failed on a front NS ball joint. This perplexed me , since i replaced both front arms including ball joints around 1 year ago.. as documented in this thread!! To hear one has failed pissed me off.. but he said it could be i hit a kurb... not likely.. or that the lowered suspension has put extra strain on them ? Now im wondering if i need to adjust the cars ride height or was it just a **** cheapo part.. i know the " buy cheap buy twice" Will have to see how low this car is.. as im no low rider.. and use the car as a commuter as you know.. hmmmm i know its all fixed and stuff just makes me wonder..
    1 point
  24. I heard a syncro shaft is the answer.
    1 point
  25. This one is Y3D Tornado Red Built 15-3-2005
    1 point
  26. AFTER the hoover after these pics.. i got the cleaner out for all the plastic, door shuts, rubbers etc. Seats i need a wet n dry cleaner... and then i will do the carpets too. BEAUTIFUL
    1 point
  27. Most vdubs of that era have the exact same. Golfs, Boras, Passats... loads on Ebay. Still used on new vdubs in China, so yeah they're still making some sort of equivalent flavour that is a perfect replacement. Go for the clear type and use a metallic silvered amber bulb for the coolest looks
    1 point
  28. Nah, I hate to say it, but there must be a fault. My guess is it's running lean- possibly caused by a dodgy temp sensor. The only thing you should notice is with a lower octane fuel is lower power at WOT and slight knocking. Higher octane fuel burns slower at a specific compression pressure, developing high combustion pressure later in the cycle (think crank pedal being horizontal - instead of at a slight angle- on a bicycle gives max push for a given pressure). The additional of ethanol actually improves octane rating and slows down the burn. The only thing that it's not good for are copper or zinc metal alloy based components, once the fuel goes stale (it becomes acidic).
    1 point
  29. Please let me know how ?
    1 point
  30. Did some digging into Cruise control and apparently cant be done. so that's annoying - perhaps i could wedge a broom or mop on the pedal lol. nothing else to report.
    1 point
  31. UPDATE TIME: As you know, i had bought complete rear drum set including piston things, shoes and drums. They rang me a couple of hours later to ask why i wanted to replace them as they are fine? So since i had never actually removed the wheel to check, its reassuring to know they are in fact ok - obviously the MOT pointed to that aswell.. The one thing they did do though was to clean up the whole assembly and since i had all the parts, replace the cylinders as they were hard to undo or something to complete a brake fluid change. Adjusted and alls well! Onto the Temp sensor - pretty sure i diagnosed this last year using my own VCDC lite , just didnt know which one to buy or where to shove it.. and life got in the way - so finally they have replaced that, checked on the computer and alls good! - IT could be placebo but i think the car feels slightly better? Temp guage is bang on now! The door lock scenario - they managed to get some time to fix that too which was just an adjustment aha! so we are back with two functioning doors! yay! And lastly , as the car needed a road test after completing the work - i needed two new tyres since my old ones got chewed since the alignment was foobar! - i think i mentioned it chewed through them in no time.. just hadnt realised i was now illegal so two of the avons again.. even tho im not too fond of them but better than budgets! So a large bill later and the car is supreme! The wife even agreed we can take Larry to the Nurburgring next year instead of my beemer haha! so that would be amazing! Lets enjoy the weather now!
    1 point
  32. UPDATE: Got the car booked into the local specialist again - having those rear brakes sat in the garage has started to annoy me and the weather has been so **** - they can take care of it. so all new rear brakes and fluid to be done. They will also take a look at the thermostat/coolant sensor to make sure its as it should - im sure its slightly faulty but hasnt presented any problems to me so far, same as the brakes really, they passed the MOT fine , but i like new shiney stuff! The door rebuild kit was a dud - looks like i need a new mechanism - i beleive the passenger side has been done as some point as the lock is silky smooth!! onto ebay i go
    1 point
  33. Yeah potentially but I hate to have multiple keys for 1 car. I want to keep it as original as possible. the rebuild didn’t work so something tells me it’s the drivers side lock mechanism instead. I need to investigate when I get more time. This only took me around 30 mins to sort out.
    1 point
  34. Don't bother with the rebuild kits. Just buy a complete lock and key. £7 ea. Or you can get two locks with one key for about £20. I bought two of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-PASSAT-LUPO-SEAT-AROSA-COMPLETE-DOOR-LOCK-SET-with-2-KEYS-FRONT-LEFT-NSF/222048496944?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
    1 point
  35. UPDATE: drivers door lock started playing up until it would no longer open the door. unlocks and locks fine. Just can’t open it. tried a cheap lock barrel replacement kit of eBay and that didn’t fix it. make sure you check the parts you buy or this might happen. See image. oh well looks like I’ll have to strip the door down and investigate.
    1 point
  36. UPDATE: Nothing much to report. Still working like a trooper. Lent my brother the car to get him out of his car trouble for 2 weeks, he loved the fuel economy. but not much else haha! cheeky sod! nice to have it back on my drive now. Need to fit the rear brake drums sometime haha! still got the brand new ones in the garage! FFS.. Onwards!!
    1 point
  37. How much oil did you get out with the car at that angle? I need to change mine and usually go to a place with ramp but might just do it on the drive instead.
    1 point
  38. Why thank you! I have the necessary tools I feel. Never enough tho is it haha
    1 point
  39. UPDATE: Got a lot sorted today! So managed to change the front Arb Links. Nice new rubber! Oil and filter change too! Old stuff smelt of burgers haha! I’m convinced the previous owner ran this on veg. Not a problem just it’s smells like an old BBQ ha! also took it to the local alignment place I got new tyres fitted couple of months back as documented on here, and since then the car has chewed the outside edges of the tyres to nearly bald! So new front tyres needed again! Ffs. oh well let’s hope the alignment has now fixed this issue. Anyway. Pics as always!!
    1 point
  40. step one, remove lower door card.and go fishing inside the bottom of the door for a semi circle.
    1 point
  41. The issue isn't with the part in your photo. It's the "lock carrier" that you require. Find one in a breakers or even VW they're not too bad. Easier to just get a new one if you're not technically/mechanically minded. There's a guide on here for how to change it, or if you're struggling I'm sure one of us can write it out step by step for you. Essentially the barrel is keyed and will only slide in one way. Once it's in, you tighten that screw up and it turns a ring inside that blocks the extruded parts of the barrel, thus meaning it can't be removed. Have you tightened the screw as far as it will go without utilizing gorilla strength?
    1 point
  42. there is a screw inside the door which turns a metal ring which locks the lock in place.
    1 point
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