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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Danno is doomed. She caught him sending fanny pics and realised they were hers.
  2. 2 points
    Hello. I'm the resident deviant.
  3. 2 points
    Hi All, Just thought I'd share this incase anyone is wanting to upgrade to 280mm brakes up front (Should apply to TDIs, 100HP 16v and GTI Models) As most of you probably know, all that's needed is new carriers, discs and pads to do the upgrade, the stock caliper is fine. Autodoc are currently stocking G60 carriers by Mapco for Β£24 a side plus postage, non OEM, but new compatible and seems less than some of the used carriers go for. Pics attached of part no and the carriers I received.
  4. 2 points
    No questionable driving, just a cheeky Lupo
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Was thinking shadow chrome for mine, but I think I want them a bit lighter than that. Probably just going to get something thats a close match to the original finish! Managed to get myself an Arosa dash for free, so I took the centre stereo surround out and painted the surrounds on the vents to match the car, finally got around to swapping it over today! Always preferred the round vents, think they suit the style of the Lupo a lot more than the boring stock ones! I have two spare side vents aswell, was thinking of doing them gloss black to match the top of the binnacle? I think doing them blue aswell would look too much
  7. 1 point
    Congratulations. When I was young we were justifiably wary of high mileage, but with the more recent technology advances we can be confident way beyond 100,000, provided service has been adequate. Just to show solidarity, here's a pic (my avatar here too)of my second Beetle (1971, 1200) turning 100K to Zero (speedos in them good ole days could only cope with 99,999):
  8. 1 point
    OEM of course. New shocks. New bushes. New wheel bearings. New tyres. Away you go..... Put a bag of cement in the passenger footwell to even out the weight. Cornering like on rails. Still not as good as a mk2 golf though.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    I used to be a deviant also but my missus decided to join up so now I just observe the new female members from a distance. Welcome to the club! 😁
  11. 1 point
    Aw someone’s noticed I’m missing ❀️ Sorry I’ve been away, I’ve been a busy bee. @danno finally figured out where my gspot is. πŸ‘ŒπŸ»
  12. 1 point
    Duct tape sticks, DNA. Zip ties, more modern. I wouldn't tie her up, she would enjoy it.
  13. 1 point
    Hi and welcome to the forum Andrew
  14. 1 point
    Try VW Lupo groups on Facebook. Loads of people braking Lupos on there, so getting hold of a mirror cover shouldn't be too much of a problem!
  15. 1 point
    I've had a set of Vredestein TTrack 2's on the the SDI, they've lasted circa 15k miles so far and still have loads of meat left (Even on the front which is quite impressive) They seem reasonably grippy but an SDI is hardly a performance car, on a 1.0mpi I think they'd probably fit the bill quite well and cost Β£30 a piece IIRC...
  16. 1 point
    How about filler putty? used to fill in any small scratches, not sure I would use this brand, but as an example
  17. 1 point
    I was referring to some people would skip a service for a set of wheels or smoothed bumper etc.Not you I know you take care of your car.
  18. 1 point
    Never had a problem. They're rated A for grip. Mind you most tyres are now rated A. You can get softer compounds or winter tyres which will always be superior in the rain. They don't last long though.
  19. 1 point
    Also remember that in most VW's the AC won't work if the outside temperature is below 5 degrees if I remember right
  20. 1 point
    I have g60 and black diamond disks in a box, since changing my disks and pads (still 256mm) brakes are massively improved so havent felt the need to try them so far.
  21. 1 point
    Hey hey, it's the double dub club...
  22. 1 point
    Yeah I wouldnt put veg in a TDI unless at very low mix at which point it isnt worth doing unless you have free clean WVO. Kero quickly looks tempting and works in TDI at sensible mix.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    While there already is a guide on replacing Brake pads I thought id Update it and also explain how to change the Disks too. this is for the 239mm Vented disk set-up. (found on Lupo, 1.0e,1.4e/s, 1.7e/s and Arosa, 1.0, 1.4, 1.7) Some 1.0e set-ups are Not vented disks. Please check. you will need, 6mm Allen key. (much easier if you have a Bit that attaches to a ratchet) Similar sized Torx Bit (Just in case) Brake Cleaner Copper Grease Phillips screwdriver (torx on Later models) Long Flat head screwdriver or Small pry bar Hammer (Mallet would be better, but all I had was Hammer) Brake Caliper Re-winder (Or G-clamp) Jack and 2 jack-stands WD40 Wire brush Correct Brake pads Correct disks and a Power drill and Metal Bits on standby (Just incase) 11mm 6 sided spanner Dot 4 brake Fluid (small amount) a buddy to help First off, Check the Handbrake is applied. and put keys in the Ignition so the steering wheel lock does not engage, this is handy for moving the caliper around to get at bolts Crack the wheel nuts loose, and Carefully Jack up your car where the little arrows are on the Sill, Failure to do so may damage sill. (Tyre Place did this a while back) Put jack stand Under Jacking Point and Lower the car onto the Jack stand. do the same so both sides are in the air. Remove The wheel and put the wheel nuts somewhere safe. make note of which wheel is from which side (you don't want to swap them over) squirt WD40 or Penetrating Lubricant over the Grub screws holding the Brake disks on and also where the Tips of the Caliper bolts are. Use your Phillips screw driver to try and remove the Screw. If this does not work, you will need to Get a drill and drill the head of the screw off. Use lots of WD40 to cool and lubricate the Bit. once this is off, start on the Caliper. the caliper Bolts are shown here and are surrounded by a rubber boot, test fit the 6mm allen bit to make sure the bolts are not stripped, once satisfied the bolts are intact Go ahead and loosen off the bolts. (May be stiff so an extension bar would be Handy) (May be handy to remove little Guard thing : Two 10mm bolts) if your bolts are heavily corroded and you strip the Head of the bolt ( Happened to me) Hammer in a Similar sized torx bit into the head of the bolt and carefully try to remove, it will eventually come free, but you will need to Pop to VW and get new bolts as it will save hassle Next time the brakes need to be Worked on. Once those bolts are Removed Pry the Top of the caliper Back using a Long flat head screw driver and once the top of the Pads has cleared the Hub it should Pull up and off. Now Pop off your old pads, Brush any loose rust off the Caliper (BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE DUST BOOT ON PISTON) and also clean up the Hub where the caliper sits, If your re using bolts then clean the treads of them too. Next, Use the caliper bolts to Push a Metal Sleeve out of where the Caliper bolts went, Clean these up and apply a small amount of copper grease to them and Push back into Calliper. Use the G-Clamp in the way shown Below to Push the Caliper Piston back (Remove Brake Fluid reservoir Lid, not nessesary but you might want to top up Fluid or something) Push the Caliper up out of the way, being careful not to damage the Brake Flexi, I just rested mine up on the drive shaft! at this point the Old disk should Pop off, If not a few Hits with a hammer should free it up! clean up any debris from the Hub and apply a small amount of copper grease around where the disk sits on the hub. Remove the new disk from packet, clean with brake cleaner and align onto hub, (If you drilled out grub screw use two Wheel bolts to hold it in place!) Next inspect the Shape of your New Brake Pads, the 'Longer' thinner Pad goes on the Outside (back towards you) and the Smaller Fatter pad will Clip into the Piston. Use a small around of copper grease on the back of the outer pad to stop Chattering against the caliper and use a small amount on the Ends and on any point of movement, But remember, Less is More, too much copper grease is a waste. slot the Bottom part of the Calliper and pads in first ( make sure they are Spaced as shown) and then the top part should just Slide in if you Push it Towards the Hub. should then look like this on top once pushed in: Put a small amount of copper grease on the treads of the Calliper bolts and Tighten them Back up. Repeat on the Other side. at this point I Bled my front Brakes so il go through that too as it helps. Crack off the Bleed nipple (So its Easy to loosen) if there's resistance or it feels it will slip then stop. Spray on Wd40 and use the wire Brush on the threads until it comes loose. Next, top up brake Fluid reservoir Get your friend to Pump the Brakes and starting with the passenger side after pumping get him to hold the Pedal down and then Open the Nipple, As fluid comes out then tighten it back up. Do the same then on drivers side when the Job is complete. Be very careful. Brake Fluid is Nasty stuff, and if you get it on your skin for too long it will dry up and crack. so Always wash your hands after this and DON'T get it on the Paint work of your car too! After I did this, I cleaned up the disks one last time with Brake cleaner and reapplied the wheels, Dropped the car down (Tightened them again) and then went for a spin around the Block to make sure everything was A+ Remember, New pads and disks need to be bed in, this takes about 400 Miles. So drive careful for the first 400 miles and don't brake hard or you will ruin your nice new disks! I accept No liability to any damaged caused from this Guide, if you Break something its not My problem, I just explained Exactly what I did when I changed my Brakes. If you Have any questions PM me and I might be able to help James.
  25. 1 point
    cleaning it out would bring it back to optimal OEM operation, but removing it, blanking the exhaust feed, and fitting a straight pipe allows it to breathe so much better, you gain a noticeable acceleration increase
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