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Seasons greetings to team Lupo! 👍🏻😎

Right-hand drive Lupo are equipped from the factory with a cable without self-adjusting, and left-hand drive ones with a cable with self-adjusting.

The starting speed is quite important for this type of diesel engines. Starting problems, such as those you describe, often occur when the cold season begins. The battery becomes slightly weaker and a new battery often temporarily solves the starting problem. However, the problem actually lies with the starter motor. It works perfectly mechanically, but the starting speed is not sufficient. You can check this relatively easily by connecting a second fully charged battery or, better still, another vehicle. If the slightly higher voltage level solves the problem, experience shows that it is the starter motor.

Hi everyone, i recently bought my own seat arosa sport. and i would like to tinker a bit with the engine and or exaust. but cant find parts anywhere. do any of you know how i can get a hold of good parts? ps my car below, any other modification reccomendations are welcome

Nice! Keep it standard and it will go up in value. It's a sport. Rare. Looks really good. Welcome to Club Lupo 👍🏻

The variable cam acts more like an internal EGR. It also provides a slight increase in torque at low revs, but this only happens below 5000 rpm. A potential change in intake manifold length, with such short intake paths, would probably only have an effect above 5000 rpm. Therefore, in my opinion, the two are not related. Nevertheless, it remains a very interesting gimmick, especially if you want to rev well above 8000 rpm. Apart from that, I completed the final assembly of the EVO1 (yes, let's call it that) today. I'm still waiting for the Pertinax plate, but luckily there are still a few minor jobs to do on the Lupo and there's still some time before the start of the season. But see the result for yourself! I like it!

Hello and welcome to the site! Some lovely VW's on that list, any pics of your current fleet?

My Lupos are all the same, but have different cables to what the drawing shows. I have a slack takeup spring just behind the locknut. I adjust it so it's "just" loose, so the clutch release bearing doesn't get worn out too early.

Ok! So on resting (having sat for several days) the reading was 12.4v. I thought 'not ideal but let's give it a go'. I was working alone so had no way to monitor the readings whilst cranking, anyway.... Turned over and once running was settled at 14.28v. That, from what i've read, seems fine as a basic measure of the battery state, and charging. It was the same after a 25 minute run. More to the point: Brake pedal still pretty stiff, but had a tiny amount to depress, so the green dashboard foot-on-brake-pedal light did extinguish. Thought if I only had one shot I'd stick it in 'N' and not risk a fail with the slightly more 'iffy' 'STOP' position and, hey presto, after a few mildly sluggish cranks (which I'd expect anyway from the time since last being driven) she fired up. The drive was really good with no other dodgy signs. I used both standard and ECO driving modes/maps and behaviour was pretty normal (although I switched off ECO mode coming to a stop as I didn't want to risk a non-start if the 'stop-start' didn't behave). So we'll see how she goes from now, but wish us luck! And I really appreciate members advice and comments.

A few observations so you can compare the behavior of a new battery to a tired one: yesterday after two days of not starting and cold at night, I had a hard time starting. Basically, the battery voltage was 12.1V and it started on the second try. On the first try, the voltage dropped to 8V and the starter almost stopped. So I went straight to the battery store. The battery still had about 67% capacity so I bought a new one. When I installed the new battery, it had 12.6V and I drove 12km home. After about 30 minutes of parking, it had 13.1V. This morning, after a night with -10 degrees Celsius, it had 12.8V and it started instantly. With the old battery, when I turned on the ignition, the voltage dropped to 10.5V (due to the glow plugs) and after the glow plug light went out, it didn't rise above 12V. Now it drops to about 11.5V (this depends on the outside temperature of course) and then rises back up, I don't remember exactly, it seems to be around 12.5V.

I put Kayaba (also gas-powered twin-tube) because I wanted something stiffer than the stock ones. I noticed that it is more stable in curves (the car doesn't lean as much anymore and I can attack the curves at higher speed). On bumps...that is, but I as the driver don't really feel them, on the other hand the rear passengers feel them quite well.

Let us know if you find a source of the short flexi brake hoses... I have three rear beams to go to galvanising when I pull my finger out. Already sand blasted. So I'll be doing the same eventually.

My TDI pedal box was torn and felt the same way till I welded the split in it. Now I get a full pedal

Managed to unscrew one of the bolts. The wiper arm was just stuck. But then i had a large wrench, and with some grease on the plastic nodes, managed to put the arm in place, like so: It works now, complete windscreen is been cleared

You need a wrench with a slightly longer arm (or a socket wrench with an extension arm) and a press to remove the arms. https://www.mtools.ro/scule-speciale-service-auto/prese-speciale/prese-stergatoare-parbriz?srsltid=AfmBOoqeLIQb8L-m7ZVPXftISYtUt8kR7_U2-Z5S-t4YPnKGXu1x5g0X

It would be better to remove the wiper arms first.

I don’t know enough about the 3L but what I will say is buy yourself a ‘power probe’ it’s a tool that is so important to bypass systems. Basically it’s a probe that not just tells you there’s a circuit but it lights green for earth, red for positive power and then the fun bit, you can send a current of either negative or positive through it to crank your starter solanoid direct without pressing the brake!! It WILL turn your engine over!

A voltmeter would be useful to monitor the battery voltage (I have a USB charger with a voltmeter that I keep plugged into the cigarette lighter socket all the time). The behavior of an ok battery would be as follows: immediately after turning off the engine (after driving 10-15 km) the voltage should be somewhere between 12.6-12.8V. After turning off the engine and locking the car, the voltage drops to 12.5V in 10-15 minutes or more depending on the condition of the battery, and will drop by 0.1 V in 6-7 days (for a new battery) of course if it is not connected to anything during this time. If after a night the voltage drops from 12.5 to 12.1 V or less, then the battery is tired or not sufficiently charged. If you make short trips and have many starts in a day, it is possible that it is simply insufficiently charged. A full charge on a rectifier might help in the latter situation. If the battery is over 4-5 years old I think it should be replaced (after the OE battery that lasted 12 years, the next one lasted 6 years, and the current one is almost 5 years old and shows signs of fatigue if the car is not used for 2-3 days in the cold season)

Thank you very much, you made my day and my year jaja

People are saying, keep the car and watch its value go up as a classic supermini - so it is staying put.

Which part are you searching for? welcome to club lupo!

Remove the wiper arms. Remove the two foam end covers. Remove the rubber seal. Starting at one end, carefully lift the end of the plastic trim away and out of the slot under the glass (clean it before re-inserting). You now have access to the wiper mechanism... Lift and twist the old linkage away from the ball mounting. You may need to remove a sheet metal retaining plate first. Lube with some CV grease, the new ends. Snap them onto the ball connections. Reassemble everything. Worth testing first though... 👍🏻😎

hey guys, I recently bought myself a lupo, its the dark metallic green colour. Its called dragon green on polos im not sure if its the same colour code etc for the lupos but its very similar. Here's mine Anyone else on here got the same colour? or got pics of modified lupos in this colour. thanks a lot

Thank you mk2! Looking at this video about replacing the temperature sensor, I realized that I have replaced it once many years ago. I will give it a try once I have found a new sensor.

Temp sensor? Most likely. It's a fuelling fault, where the mixture is leaning out. The ecu in it's wisdom has decided to provide the wrong amount of fuel injection... Throttle sensor (TPS)? Vacuum/manifold leak? Sticky fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pump? Fuel filter?

? SMJ Photography / A. Shepherd

Common Lupo colour My previous Lupo was this colour. I believe its called taffeta green