Leaderboard

That's ok, it means the earth connections are ok This is not ok. Do the following steps: - check fuse no. 37 - if fuse 37 is ok check the continuity between pin 2 and one of the ends of the fuse (if you can see where the black/white wire is, if you can't see the color of the wires then there should be continuity between pin 2 and one of the ends of the fuse. If there is no continuity, you must check if there is continuity between pin 2 and pin 4 of the red 10-pin connector under the relay support. If there is continuity here, you must check if there is continuity between this pin 4 and the fuse. - if there is continuity between pin 2 and fuse 37, you must check if there is continuity between the other end of fuse 37 and pin 87 of relay 109 Check up to here and then we'll see further Attach a needle to the multimeter probe

I found a diagram with the pin numbering

It is the wire that goes from pin 87 of relay 109 to pins 1 and 2 of the ECU connector. The measurements I described above will show if the problem is in this area. I'm attaching the wiring diagram just in case. AKU flow diagram.pdf You need a screwdriver bent at 90 degrees and the airbag is removed quite easily.

After removing the connectors from the ECU, proceed as follows (as a precaution when removing/inserting the connectors, remove the negative battery terminal): - clean the contacts with contact spray (use a dedicated spray, nothing else) - identify the pin numbering in the connector. At the moment I don't have a numbering diagram, I hope the pins are numbered right on the connector. - reconnect the negative battery terminal - with a multimeter, check the resistance between the negative battery terminal and pins 4 and 5 of the ECU connector. It should be very low, around 1 ohm - check with a multimeter the voltage between the negative battery terminal and pin 37 of the ECU connector. It should be equal to the battery voltage.It is a permanent voltage regardless of whether the ignition is on or off. - turn on the ignition and check with a multimeter the voltage between the negative battery terminal and pin 1 and 2 of the ECU connector. It should be equal to the battery voltage. Depending on the results of these checks, we can isolate the area where the interruption could be.

It's certainly 'spring'-time now Otis now has AP Lowering Springs on him, making him 35mm lower than standard. My aftermarket exhaust was also meant to be done today, but it seems I had a lapse of judgment in measuring, because I need a 5mm adapter to get it to fit! Hopefully I can get that sorted soon. Anywho, see below for a before and after!

Update: Thanks for the suggestions, garage says there is no wiring in situ for the sensor as it should not have one so therefore not that simple a job. We will either use someone to delete that code from the ECU or get the ECU reprogrammed. If the latter I will probably look at warming her up a little: whilst it is her automatic shopping/dog cart I see no point in paying to have it set to original specs if it can be improved.

That's exactly what happened to me a few days ago. The drains in the compartment under the windshield (where the cabin filter and ECU are located) were clogged. The drains are in the corners on the left and right towards the front. They are unblocked with a thicker wire. Inserted there, it must reach the wing area. I was really wondering why water appears under the car when the weather was good. The drains were not completely clogged and when they were completely clogged, I had exactly the same experience as you: after a few km of driving, water appeared on the passenger side.

When checking the continuity of the wires, the ignition should not be turned on and it would be better if the battery was not connected either. The battery is connected and the ignition is turned on only when checking the voltages. I know it's a challenge to access things in that area, I changed a relay once and it was very difficult (lots of short wires) Unfortunately I don't know what the plug looks like to give you any guidance, if you had a picture it would be helpful I have attached a document with how to remove the relay board. AKU RELEE.pdf

Hey! So… kinda bad news. • On the multimeter set to 200 ohms, I’m getting 00.5 on both pins 4 and 5. • Switched to 20V for voltage — battery’s at 12.22V, but testing pins 1 and 2 with the key in the “On” position gives me like 0.00 or 0.01V. Also, I couldn’t test pin 37 properly — the hole’s super tiny and the multimeter probe won’t fit. Should I take out that pink security tab to get to it? Side note: the ECU is super clean, like surprisingly clean for how old this car is. Check out the photo I attached.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thD9-TzzE0s&ab_channel=mr-fix The part he took out at 00:44 is the one that is also cover over cabin filter. Is all around filter nice and clean?

There is a screw there with two brown wires attached to it. These are the wires that go to pins 4 and 5 of the ECU.

As I wrote, the tests are done with the ECU plug removed, so the ECU is disconnected/unpowered. The second mandatory condition is that the tests be done when the car does not start.

Thanks for the replies. I ordered a new battery from Tayna based on my car I opted for a Varta battery and to my surprise its specification was slightly less than the battery on the car. I changed this over at lunch time today - who designed that fuse box?? The short story is that the fault seems to have disappeared. We used the car to collect my daughter from uni over 80 miles away and it handled the 160 mile journey with ease. I hope that this means that the problem is solved and it was a simple case of a battery. I have a basic tester - massive load which showed that the old Yausa battery was 'weak'. I appreciate your help and support.

New batteries always help. Just keep an eye on it as flattening a brand new battery shortens its life a lot. Typically, you will get no fault code if the ignition switch or crank sensor is intermittent because the computer simply thinks that you've either switched off the engine (on purpose) or the engine isn't running. It uses the crank sensor to tell if it's running and set the ignition timing for sparks (and other stuff). Let us know what you find so we can all learn

Thankyou so much for your reply. I have replaced the air filter and is clean, new fuel filter and fuel pump and new plugs but every year they were black previously. The only OBD-2 code showing was a fuel tank sensor which makes sense as shows constantly empty!! Probably damaged it when doing fuel pump after I looked at where it is located. No other codes have come up. I was thinking of replacing the lambda before cat. I have someone currently helping me with welding the new flexi on (as the repair kit didn't fit at all!!) so that will be air tight etc. Wiper is now fixed and clearing. I did a new brake cylinder - now the brakes are binding slightly on that side I think and handbrake is solid with 1 click so I need to look at this tomorrow, really appreciate your advice on that. Fingers crossed the exhaust system now being sound will mean emissions will sail through, have also taken it for a good run and dropped some additive in the tank.

Want to hear something funny, 16 years later I finally got around to this job.

Rear mudflaps are on! Finally found some..

A quick repair sometimes is to use sheet plastic from a builders cement bag or sand bag. That’s a very thick grade and wrap it round the ball and pop it back through. Done it many times on loose gear levers and similar as it gives it that nice ‘new’ firmness

Looking well and clean

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/vaico/869997 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/vaico/869996

I dont remember a sigle car model which dont have tight space in back of radio, cables often get in way to push radio all the way in, it can be little tricky, but nothing hard. You will get it.

Do you have plastic cover over cabin filter? And a lot of dirt around cabin filter in scuttle panel can make exactly the same result.

I don't think the sensor you ordered is compatible. If you try it, let us know what you find out... Good luck with the project!

Morning, I sent over the link to this thread over to the garage and they've been able to find some RTS ones. They ordered one and it fits so now just to order the other one and it should finally be back on the road!

I've attached a few photos of the car during the rally. It's been amazing, and the amount of stuff you can cram into one of these is astounding, including a 240ah leisure battery and an inverter in the spare wheel well for unlimited tea, and a fridge😂. But 23 mpg flat out at 75mph is pretty dire, though, so looking to swap the engine for a diesel. In an ideal world, i's do a 3l swap to it as I love those engines and their fuel economy. But sadly, those engines aren't super cheap, and then manually swapping them after diesel swapping is quite a bit of work and uncertainty. So, as it stands, the plan is either the 1.4tdi or 1.7sdi. I've read that they both get similar mpg, but with the TDI being more powerful makes it the obvious one to go for. Despite this, though, I've got my eye on a crash-damaged 1.7sdi with the open-air roof that I'm hoping to convert mine to be open-air. I've also got my eye on a Lupo trailer that matches my car's colour, which I think would be pretty sick for shows and stuff. So I guess my question is: Despite being a bit gutless, is there any major reason not to go with the SDI? Is the conversion pretty painless if I have a donor car? And finally, has anyone got any experience with doing a Lupo pen air conversion and could give me some tips and tricks / fitting a towball to a Lupo? As it stands, here's my list of jobs to do to the car: install new coil springs in the front, Replace the rear suspension with stiffer ones from a Golf (would help with towing) Install a tow ball Open-air conversion, SDI swap it. As promised, here are some pictures of Lance's tour of Europe:

Thanks a lot, I'll check with the garage on Tuesday. Proud to be a part of it! Of course! Keeping mine original as you can seeq♥️

Go from the fuse box/relay panel for your +ve feed. More than enough power there. And don't forget the return path. Don't use the body shell (too high resistance). Run a cable via the blower/wiper plenum.

Ina lifters. Soak for as long as possible. Male sure all is sealed nicely and that oil drains back to the sump without any goo in the drain holes. Clean oil channels as much as possible. You know it all leads to doing the belt and water pump as well since it's kinda off.

update time! seatbelt pads, a toy lupo (hard to find!), otis sticker and floor mats!

Looks like it's been soldered. No clip!

Any ideas where the cabin filter is? My dads going to change it but he said 'it's not where I thought it was' and I've trawled CL, google and youtube but no luck! Thanks!!