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Can't help with your questions but a warm welcome and that's a good looking Lupo.

There is a member on here who has a Gti with less than 3000 miles from new. There was another Japan import Gti that when it came to the country it had 3000 miles (checked the MOT history and that is now on 32000 miles WO04 ZHA) I did try and buy a sport about 10 years ago that had similar mileage to your car but unfortunately it had been agreed to sell to a family member.

Just closing this thread in case it helps someone in the future. My issue was Relay 109—I bought a new one from VW for 39 euros in Belgium (including taxes). To note, the injection pump at the front of the engine is practically "bulletproof," so if your car used to run great, the problem is most likely electrical. Check the replies above for guidance on diagnosing your issue. Special thanks to everyone who has helped me from the start of my journey with my SDI!

You can remove the engine under tray and wing liners to check everything. You can see from below the car. You don't need to remove the wings and bonnet. I would check inside the sills for corrosion. You need to remove the rubber bungs to have a look. If necessary, you can spray more wax inside when it is dry. 👍🏻

Recently i changed my radio. Although it works, the metal frame from the previous radio stayed because i didn't know how to remove it. Now it looks like this without the possibility to go all the way in. Is it possible to remove and how, the old metal frame and put the new shorter one so the new radio can fit properly?

The old one should come out if you bend the pushed-down tabs back up. When you install the new one, push the tabs down to lock it in place

Hi, I'm Cris and I live in Portugal. Three weeks ago I bought this Lupo as my daily driver. It has around 105 000 miles and it belonged the last two years to a lady. On the first day I drove 100 miles without a problem till the key was stuck on the driver's door ( fixed). And after two weeks the car stopped after appearing the oil light. ( I have done a basic maintenance oil(5w40) and filters). I believe the thinner oil helped💪🏻 It has oil and the coolant level is on the point. So piston rings,connecting rod covers( google translated), O2 sensor, spark plugs, oil pump, new clutch cable and clutch. Now I will begin my journey😅🤣 Waiting for the car parts to start the repair. Unfortunately we started with the wrong foot. So I am a car enthusiast for a few years, normally I like the small "old" cars that have some pedigree. My main goal is to keep the car as original as possible. The outside needs the 16v badge at the front grille and redone the back lettering (it's not straight) The inside I need to fix my seat( it doesn't flip the seat forward 🤦🏼) HELP New radio Upholester the steering wheel and side panels( original color) So my English isn't the best at all, I hope you all understand it💪🏻

Excellent. I'll message them. Thanks 👍🏻

I tryed that and it did not helped me at all, but luckily the handle is big enough to grab and twist it with all kind of tools.

I used a giant screwdriver I had where the handle would fit in the plastic groove.

And on today's episode of quite little fixes.. I replaced the gaiter all by myself! May be a simple job but I am quite thick when it comes to cars.. let alone common sense! XD Comparison down below So happy with the result!

Hi fellow Lupo owners! I have imported a 1999 VW Lupo into the United States. Without any dealer support or information on the vehicles easily accessible to someone living in a different country that was never intended to have a Lupo driving the streets, I’m looking for some help/advice. I currently work with VWoA so I’m familiar with vehicles and not a total newbie. My question is I’d like to add a spoiler to the rear hatch of my car. Is this the only OEM spoiler available and will it fit my car? I’ve attached photos of my Lupo. https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_global/part/6E0827939B GRU I’m open to suggestions as well. I’m also in the market for OEM Lupo wheels if anyone has any info on that? Thank you! -Tim

I meant replace the old frame with this new one

Thank you guys for the welcome! Mk2 it definitely gets attention wherever I take it. I know of 4 Lupo’s including mine in the USA. I was wondering how the break light situation would work with a spoiler. The link I attached is for the Lupo FSi spoiler. Any good recommendations on breaking yards in Europe? I have scoured eBay for anything I could find already. I’ll definitely look into the rustproofing. Thank You!

Hey hey, the third Lupo in the US as far as we know! Excellent! I bet that'll attract a LOT of attention in the car parks. The only option I can think of is the GTi or Sport edition spoiler- which are difficult to find. A European wreckers yard is probably your best bet- if they do mail order. Beware of the new Trump tariffs on European car part imports. You'll also need the brake light lamp unit, which is different to the standard one. Get the underside (sills, front and rear subframes, jacking points) washed and rustproofed once the weather warms up. Worth looking after being such a rare beast over there! Keep us all updated with developments... Welcome to club Lupo

Update: I got a exhaust on the way from the guys at Hornet exhausts!! Otis shall be sounding bumbly.. excuse the pun It is a catback system so no alterations to the manifolds, just plug and play! I'm gonna get it installed the same day as the springs, seeing the car's gonna be up on the ramps anyways. Looking forward to a fully transformed Otis!

Good news, the new head light switch did the job

Hi mates Just got a mint 2005 vw lupo 3l with 40k km new paint and all for my girl and we wanted to upgrade some stuff. The radio is already an aftermarket cheap unit, maybe the worse i've used and the display screen is destroyed. My question is, how should I proceed with opening the plastics? I tried to start by taking the radio's "under pocket" off but doesn't seem to come out, should I take the big plastic frame that surrounds de radio and vents first? Also the interior ceiling light isn't working so we need to change bulb, how can I take it off? Seems really tight up there as well. Not forcing anything because the car is in such good condition, I wouldn't like to mess it up, that's why I'm asking such basic stuff. Left some pictures in the atachments, would really appreciate some help, thank you in advance :) .

Magnets? Neodymium glued onto the door card and stuck to the door... They can be really strong.

I am not a mechanical engineer but something can be pulled off i think by using screws. Any ideas how to tighten up the door panel to stand in place when you put your arm on the arm-rest bit? Can i do it with screws, drill holes in the panel so screws can go trough instead of glue? Or there are purchasable parts that can replace the plastic bits that hold it?

I understand your point about the reconditioning, but I wouldn't want to recondition the arms every time. Has anyone ever converted the suspension on a Lupo or Lupo 3l from oem to a Golf 4 or Golf 3 or VR? Thank you.

Most garages/workshops have spring compressors. Hey, even I do. Can't really see why you have to wait so long. Takes about 45 mins for the fronts, about 5 mins for the rears (don't need a compressor for the rear). If you take the rear shocks out (you don't need to), it's worth swapping the rear bump stops. I fit old 90's Passat stops, which you can pick up for £5 for a pair (eBay).

Ina lifters. Soak for as long as possible. Male sure all is sealed nicely and that oil drains back to the sump without any goo in the drain holes. Clean oil channels as much as possible. You know it all leads to doing the belt and water pump as well since it's kinda off.

Just to close this out. I did replace the cat to get through the 2024 MOT, probably stupid but i'd ran out of time. After that I plumbed in an oil catch can and with a spirited drive before this years test she passed without needing anything else. Thanks for everyones help!

Yeah, it happens to every Lupo... Even worse is when the moulded clips break, then the only solution is to glue the retaining clips. And their position is important when you glue them back on. I use polyurethane rubber adhesive. They break when you lean on that ledge that the electric window switches are mounted on. I've had an idea how to prevent it happening, by mounting a strip of something on the top of the door so that the door card panel hooks over it, like on Golfs. I haven't tried it yet. I broke one of my door cards (again...) a couple of weeks back.

I thought i'd mention this. You may be to go the manufacturer and ask for a Certificate of Conformity. More details below. I suspect a 1.0ltr arosa would meet this of any age. https://motorway.co.uk/sell-my-car/guides/cetificate-of-conformity-ulez

And such simple things as dropping your windows by the feel of the switches, adjusting radio etc is done safely on old cars. My Arosa makes me feel alive, good and a sense of achievement. My brain has a workout, that’s best thing for my body.

Yep. I recently hired a brand new car (and yes, I hated it). I had two bloody scary incidents... Was passing a cyclist, just as normal, all safe and lovely, when all of a sudden the damn car swerved towards him. And it really meant it. Like, "I'm going to get him!". Had to really force the steering HARD to avoid hitting him. Who would have been to blame had I hit the guy? The other, on the return trip was when a partly deflated (metalised) helium balloon blew across the road just a few feet in front of the car. Yep, the car applied full emergency braking causing the car behind me to just miss me and do a perfect 180 in the road. Fortunately nothing happened. Not impressed with this experimental technology. It's certainly not foolproof. Safety systems need to be 100% effective, not 99.99%. Imagine one in ten thousand fire extinguishers is actually filled with petrol. That's the gamble. No wonder people are turning the systems off. Thanks for posting this! 👍🏻

We NEED more Lupo presence. 👍🏻

Went to the Cars & Coffee meet this morning with my buddy at zee Stag! There were some incredible cars and also some familiar faces too, however it was a shame that amongst these 100 odd cars, I was the only Lupo! Safe to say I stood out! (Yes, there was a Max Power Corsa B next to me XD)

Try to unlock it doing all the travel. Retract the piston manually with some lever between the disc and the pad and then brake, until you feel they move freely, and then put the new pads. If you enjoy the process and know how to fix it, it's fine, whatever you have.

Glad you have it on the road again! It's a little bit tricky to mount this arb lower bushes first time, it helps if you do it with one side attached, so you can compress the new upper side bush lifting the wishbone, to be able to thread a little by hand. If you change the entire droplink, vaseline or silicone grease on the arb helps a lot. Check the position too, because they are offset.

@tigcraft @mk2 Thankyou both so much. I did have an axel stand under too before going under, I see the triple sill now, thanks alot, appears to be no marks where I jacked. I have found the anti roll bar drop links, hopefully they are simple and a couple of bolts. Once new tyres are on tomorrow I can drive onto my little plastic ramps which I much prefer (with a couple axel stands, wheels chocked etc). I will have a look at Waxoyl - was going to buy the hammerite black paint to touch up alot of areas. Thanks so much guys - really feeling better about this car for my sister - knew it wasn't scrap as some people advised her - done £160 on 4 brand new 13" tyres, £90 fuel pump, £25 on wipers, £16 coolant, £25 fuel filter+spark plugs and now exhaust and drop links all seems well worth it considering when I owned the car I had the pedal box removed and refurbished and various other labour intense jobs.

OMG! Don't jack it up there, it'll go straight through the floor! Not a jacking point... The right place is on the sill triple edge, just below the little arrow marking. Hope the floor pan is ok after this. There's very little rust under the car. I'd get the whole underside pressure treated with waxoyl or similar to keep it looking that good! Yeah that's just a down pipe, with some heat wrap around the flex joint I'm guessing. Go for Ernst, Walker or Otto brand exhaust bits. Autodoc? And like @tigcraftmentioned, anti roll bar drop links. There are two sizes. Make sure you get the 18mm hole...(not Gti).

It’s the anti roll bar link bush. Please please please use a bit of thick 6”x 6” plywood to support the car and not like you’ve done as old cars are thin in those corners!!

@tigcraft @mk2 @Rich @ObjectiveAway @amgeriz Thanks for your help - so glad it’s running. Flushed all the fluids and changed wipers. I can see I have a perished bush on the wishbone which I initially thought was a droplink, can anyone please use their expertise identifying? Also this white part of the exhaust looks worse for wear, wondering if I buy this whole set of exhaust from eBay, any advice appreciated as smoke is escaping. I am now going to trawl the forums and youtube on changing aux belt, I think cam belt and water pump will be in order too but at a garage but then we should be ready for an MOT!

In stock form they are offset back, like @mk2 said. I have it offset to the front to achieve the caster gain you mentioned. Having used both, it depends on what behaviour you like: with oem caster the car steers easily and it's more agile on tight corners. With the added caster the car gains high speed stability and steering become heavier, plus give more information. The only drawback with them flipped it's if your car is lowered with 13" like mine, the inside barrel lip rub a little with the lower control arm on full lock if you force it. P.S. I think your car will need an alignment whatever you decide.

Having changed one of mine last week, they're set back, not forward like you'd expect. Have a look at new ones for sale and you'll see pics...👍🏻 Your pic with red tape is right.

The spark plug light also indicates that the ECU is getting power. If it does not come on for a short time when you turn on the ignition, it means that the ECU is not getting power and will not start. When this light flashes, it indicates an electrical problem, as @mk2 said, and then a tester must be connected to the car and the error codes read (be careful that if the spark plug light does not come on, the tester cannot connect to the ECU either) It is possible that there is an imperfect contact somewhere. Check the relay 109 connection to the body (in plenum clamber) and the lamellar fuses on the battery (they must not be oxidized and make good contact).

If when it doesn't start the spark plug light doesn't come on for a short time when you turn on the ignition then the problem is electrical (no power to the ECU) and most of the time the fault is relay 109, but it could also be an imperfect contact elsewhere. It has nothing to do with the crankshaft sensor or the fuel supply or the shut off valve on the pump or other mechanical problems. It is strictly a problem with the ECU power supply. To check: - relay 109 - connection to the body (in plenum chamber) - the condition of fuses 37 under the steering wheel and fuse 2 on the battery (the second lamellar fuse from the left)

I've been reading a few posts, and I’ve noticed that sometimes the engine light and glow plug light don’t come on. When that happens, the engine cranks but won’t start. Based on what I’ve read (a lot of posts), this points to a bad 109 relay. I’ve ordered a new one, which should arrive Wednesday at my VW dealer. Interestingly, whenever both lights do come on, the car starts perfectly every time without fail. For now, if replacing the relay doesn’t fix the issue once and for all, the crank sensor could also be the culprit. I haven’t scanned it yet—despite having VCDS—just haven’t been in the mood. I’ll do it soon and keep you guys posted. Do you think the ignition switch could be a third possible cause? Also, I should add that applying positive power from the battery to the pump makes it click, so I’ve ruled that out, along with a full diesel tank and mostly no bubbles in the fuel line. The fuel filter was replaced 3,000 km ago, and when she runs, she runs great, just gotta get her to start reliably! 😂 (Got new window switches and a set of pristine RS772s, and now she decides to act weird lol.)

The glow plugs draw a lot of power, so it could be a loose 12v connection somewhere? Your guess?

Keep the standard windows... pop outs always leak! But if you change them, you also need the inside trim panels because they are also different to standard.

Update as promised! Initially, we bought a cheapie Brake Switch for £7.99, only to find that once plugged in, the brake lights were permanently on? We adjusted the plunger to try to tackle this problem, but nothing worked. We got refunded and opted for a more quality one from GSF for £27. Otis is back! No lights on the dash, brake lights work as they should, happy days! And whilst I'm here, I took him up to Headcorn/Smarden area to test the new switch (to see if the car still thought it had a problem) but no! All good! Hope everyone's having a lovely, sunny weekend just as I am

18k. Just not fair (178k).

I did indeed and there was some electricity to the fuel pump! So figured had to be fuel pump. Replaced this and boom started first time! Thanks everyone. Will get fluids changed etc next.

I have "elephant snorkle" mods on every engine I own. Even my lawn mower. Sump gases are so bad for an engine it's crazy. Simple length of 20mm cable flex conduit from the breather outlet down towards the chassis rails under the car cures all evils. A bicycle handlebar bung works a treat to block the airbox inlet hole. To make the car run leaner is tricky, because the ECU is monitoring the O2 sensor, checking the mix all the time while driving. Unless you make yourself a O2 emulator circuit, so you can forcibly trick the ECU to make the mix richer or leaner. Could try a small gap somehwere on the vacuum side. Perhaps even one of the vacuum lines? I guess you might be able to let some air in bit by bit (when it's warmed up), until it throws a code.

Nowt like being 12 years late! Name : Becca Age : 26 From : Durham Job : Being a top wench Drives : Lupo sport Other Information : Love Cherries and the smell of cherries and I sometimes cry when I stub my toe. Picture :

Name: Marianne Age: Lets just say my retirement age has been moved! Job: Was a nurse Originally from: East London Drives: Jazz Blue Automatic Lupo 1.4 Other:Australia beckons but no Lupos or Up's....

Hello, I've been meaning to do this for a short while now but haven't been able to get round to doing it any sooner but here goes anyway As the title says this is my step by step (sort of :s) guide to fitting rear pop out side windows to a lupo. In this case my cars shell is a 1999 1.4 Sport varient and I was lucky enough to already have the receving holes with the nuts (or whatever you may call them) in my shell as standard; not all cars have the holes and some have the holes but no nut in there but these can be bought and inserted if there is no hole it is quite possible to just drill your own (in the right place of course ). The parts that you will need are as follows as they are not gathered by myself I'm not totally sure if all the numbers are correct but maybe somebody will be able to adjust them if needs be QUOTE (dailydriver @ Oct 22 2005, 06:15 PM) Spent a bit of time hassling the parts guy at my local dealer. Cost from VAG is 190 big ones. Part numbers should be; 6X3 847 099 L Side Window x 1 @ £36.05 6X3 847 100 L Side Window x 1 @ £36.05 6X3 847 105 01 C Fastener (catch) x1 @ £21.38 6X3 847 106 01 C Fastener (catch) x1 @ £21.38 6X3 847 145 EB 41 Seal for frame x 2 @ £22.31 each Plus the following screws etc. (im not sure which are which here as you need more of some than others :s) N 102 854 02 N 902 521 04 N 905 988 04 N 905 988 04 1) Firstly begin by prising off the plastic trim that surrounds the inside of the window. It may feel hard to get off but if you get a corner and give it some tug or use a screw driver to prise it off it should come away, it feels brittle but actually doesn't seem to be at all. 2) Once this is off the harder work begins...... You will nedd a decent quality stanley knife as such Make sure you have a few spare blades as I went through 4 or 5 of them. Then starting in one corner place the blade between the glass as body work and you will be able to see lots of quite strong black rubber sealant to which you must begin cutting into! Run the blade along this sealant over and over again; you do have to use quite a bit of force on the blade to cut it and it does take some time to get through with many many passes over each side! NOTE: BE CAREFUL THAT WHEN THE BLADE DOES EVENTUALLY GO THROUGH YOU DO NOT START SCRATING THE EXTERIOR PAINT WORK OF THE CAR AS YOU CUT!!!! I continued this cutting along all edges except the B pillar as this glue is a little more tricky to get to and is easier to address last untill you've near enough got a claen cut on all three sides. 3) You may find it helpful to prise the glass away from the car with a small amount of force to make cutting the glue easier but be careful not to use to much force and break the galss!! This process can be quite tough going on the hands.......:s My window looked like something out of a horror film the amount of blood splattered and smudged all over the inside of the glass, lol! With the one edge still attatched and the others prised away from the car as below It is then possible to create enough room to get inbetween the glass and body and begin cutting away the final edge With a little bit a leveredge up and down the window should eventually be able to be cut free..... 4) It is then neccessary to cut and peel away the excess rubber sealant that still remains stuck to the car; again I was very careful and used a stanley knife, my finger nails and some Autoglym tar and insect remover to remove the excess and very difficult to remove sealant! These are a couple of the scratches I managed to carve into the car when cutting the glue from inside 5) Finally time to start installing the new window Firstly just push on the new rubber seals making sure you get them on the correct way around with the squidger bits on the outside :s 6) Then screw the catches that make the windows open and close onto the glass and line the other side of the window up with the holes on the B pillar ready to be screwed in, its handy to have a second person helping here really. Use the newly aquired torx screws to attatch the one side of the window to the car but don't tighten fully yet as you may need to adjust the window slightly to get it sitting correctly. 7) Line the catch up on the other side of the window inside the car and using the slightly smaller torx screws and attatch it to the C pillar (note you will have to remove the piece of interior trim in this pillar before you can attatch the catch; just pull it starting near the top and it will come off. 8) With this done line the window up by eye on the outside so that it sits straight and true to the rest of the cars lines and then proceed to tighten all of the screws up nice and tightly. Repeat this whole process on the other side of the car and there you go a nice set of pop out windows installed! The passenger side glued proved to be far more difficult to cut through for some reason and took much longer than the drivers side but all together the whole process took me about 4/5 hours :s And the finished result..... Not the best final photos to show them off but it gives you a pretty good idea of what they will look like Thank you for reading and I hope this helps out anyone who is looking to install a set of 'pop outs' to their car Sam. [Extra Info added by nfbr:] When fitting the Pop out windows to the lupo, the C-Pillars will have to be either Removed, or changed for the correct ones. Here are the part numbers for the Correct C-Pillars to suit the Pop Out windows! Cars without Sunroof: Grey C-Pillar trim (Left) for vehicles with Hinged rear windows: 6X0 867 241 C 33C Grey C-Pillar trim (Right) for vehicles with Hinged rear windows: 6X0 867 242 C 33C Cars with O.E. Tilt/Slide Sunroof: Grey C-Pillar trim (Left) for vehicles with Hinged rear windows: 6X0 867 241 D 33C Grey C-Pillar trim (Right) for vehicles with Hinged rear windows: 6X0 867 242 D 33C ** ALL USER GUIDES ARE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY OF THE AUTHOR, NOT CLUB LUPO **