mk2

Proper pics. Proper workshop. That's dedication to the cause 👍🏻

Welcome to Club Lupo There's a how-to do it yourself on here.

If closer, i'd steal it from you Bargain! How to fix it... It's just one 10mm bolt that is out of adjustment. If you able to get under the car, on the mech that goes into the gearbox, next to the exhaust, there's a bolt that adjusts the rotate angle of the shaft that goes into the gearbox. My guess is that it simply needs to slide up its slot by about 2mm. (If the box is still ok and reverse still works?). If the box was 'just' working ok after the refurb and gradually went wrong, then it might be the selector bolt I mentioned above. If it just stopped while driving, then it might be more serious, especially if there were any noises (internal selector fork dropped out).

I can't make out if the top loop is only half there? Looks like the lower one is ok though. If the top is only half there, I'd just weld a bit of sheet steel back on, clean up the weld mess then touch up with some paint. Only trouble is that everything will need to be protected from welding and grinding sparks which destroy plastic, glass and fabric... almost a case of a full strip out just to fix it. Ah, just had an idea- you could fanricate an L shaped bracket that matches the lower one. Then with two steel rivets, place it directly above the broken top loop. Not OEM, but would work?

@Rich fixed it for him for 10p and a pack of crisps. And in under 7 1/2 minutes.

That's one nice looking Gti. That A pillar loop- never fixed one, but i imagine you need to go in from behind, probably through the door loom hole. Or maybe from inside, once all the trim has been removed. It's probably welded on (or was?), so the alternative without seeing one out of the car, is to probably get a new strap mount from a breakers (A1 in Winnersh has a couple in right now). Cut it out. Then drill 4 3mm holes and stainless steel pop rivet in place. Perhaps dab it afterwards with some paint to hide the repair? Tricky one, but ever so important...

@Skezza has spent many hours on this subject, with lots of moral support from all. From memory, I think it has something to do with early and late Lupos having different security systems. I lose the will to live when I start going down the ID44 or ID48 rabbit hole, as there's so much conflicting info on the web. Also early and late clusters seem to have some effect on results. I'll probably start on the subject again if I lose a key- one of my Lupos still only has just one key registered. I have a new metal copy and an ID chip. That's as far as I managed. I can program and remap ECUs, design emulators and mess with all the electronics. But Lupo security has me beat. @RAB, that is just silly money. For a KEY!

Yeah, it's the yellow bit in this pic (From EGR how-to), below the word "tied". I'd check the output using VCDS before changing it. Might be ok.

Why do you think that happens? On some identical cars you can access the SKC, other's won't have any of it... It's been puzzling me too. I remember we had this discussion about 4 years ago. Never came to a conclusion. My SDIs all behave differently to each other. Almost as if they each have their own personality, which I know is nonsense. I just dunno. It's very odd.

Where are you? There was a complete yellow Lupo sport in A1 breakers in Wokingham last week. Might still be there.

Immo emulators don't work on Lupos... I've tried. Passats, Polos, Golfs, Boras etc. Yeah, no problem. The Lupo is special...

Fun fact (i pretty sure I'm right here...). The little glass ID chip thing is the exact same as used for Pet IDs... they inject that down a big needle! I think a vet can read vw keys. Not helpful at all, but very slightly interesting. 🙄

@RAB have you tried it? @Skezza and me and one or two others have had numerous attempts and have never succeeded. Don't know why, but I think Gtis (& 3L) are different to regular Lupos. I know the clusters are different. Even the automotive lock people I ask tell me they have to pull the dash to bits just to get the SKC. Usually costs about £75 to cut and program (pair) the key in, if aftermarket. If genuine VW, I believe the present cost is £120 + VAT per key. I've managed no probs on Polos, Golfs, Boras and Passats, but never on my SDIs.

@Rich likes fixing pedal boxes how long did it take? I think the record is 7 1/2 minutes 😂

Immobiliser active. Key needs re-pairing with the car. The car doesn't recognise that spare key... you need to find the original key, or it'll be a case of get a new one from vdub. No easy way out.