The definitive Pedal Box Thread

[Dave!]

when i dip the clutch on mine, it has started creaking, my biting points high on it too

[benters]

anyone got a pic of an old versus new one ? i have some of the issues described and reckon a mate can TIG weld a support into an old style one so as to improve to the better design but a pic would be handy

[YIDDOX46]

I've just been quoted £900today to fix mine with a new clutch at a dealer's i told them no thank's, so now i'm looking around for a another garage in wiltshire that can do it cheaper.

[Ashh]

Got my pedal box replaced today

Came to £349 Thanks to Dale (Lupoboz) - However this included a new door lock paddle mech as mine had snapped!

See the weld

[JGTTDI2]

This maybe isnt the best section for this question but im having some issues with getting gears on my 1 litre arosa mk2, i have changed the gearbox oil and selector shaft seal but its still the same, i have also tried greasing the linkages but the gears are still stiff?

Can anyone help please?

Thanks J

[Phatbwoy]

Would just like to add to this, seeing as I have been faced with the broken pedal box issue lately. We have a 2000 SDI with 127000 miles and the pedal box went last week. I knew straight away what it was as my Mums Polo did the exact same thing a year ago.

So, knowing the situation and that there was no point in chasing any dealerships, along with the costs of using a garage, I decided to tackle the job myself. After a long afternoon of swearing and agro, the pedal box is out.

I am going to my mates tomorrow and we are going to weld it up around the entire bracket to strengthen it. The only thing I have bought is the plastic retainer that clips into the rear of the brake pedal (confirming what everyone else has stated about it being impossible to remove without breaking). I will also write up my method statement as it may be useful for anyone else facing this job. It's certainly helped me having all the info posted on this thread.

- Disconnect battery negative terminal - 10mm nut

- Remove driver seat (essential imo for work space) 2 x 13mm nuts at front center and remove 2 x plastic trim pieces that are fixed with 2 x phillips screws that are covered with blanking caps. Seat then slides back and out of the runners

- Remove steering cowling and other bits of plastic interior trim to expose steering column and fuses - a hole host of torx bolts

- Disconnect all electrics from steering column and tie to one side (so they dont drape in your face while you work). Pretty simple automotive connectors (one is covered in grey sponge!?) The black connector morphes into the plastic ring that surrounds the ignition barrel. I found this popped off with two small flat head screw drivers.

- Ah, now the fun bit.... SHEER BOLTS!!! I never understood why car companies use these to fix steering columns. Security bull****! Anyuway, some people on here mentioned using a sharp chisel and hammer to get them off. Well, this didn't work for me. Firstly they aren't small bolts (there is a lot of metal to chisel), secondly to room you have to hammer a chisel up there is very restricted. Even if you were to chisel a flat head "slot" into the bolts, it's still a nightmare. So, I opted to drill them out. I used a corded drill and some high speed steel drill bits, building up from about 2mm up to 15mm. This was still a pain and took me a long time. You have to drill your first pilot hole exactly in the center of the bolts or the job becomes harder (trust me I know). I also trimmed a little of the plastic either side of the column (won't be seen when it's all back) so that I could get the drill up there. I found it long, hard work on my back getting metal swarf in my eyes (wear glasses) but after some persistance they fall out. To me this was the hardest bit of the removal.

- Once that is done the steering column can be unbolted from the spline shaft in the footwell (covered by a piece of plastic trim with one small torx strew). Don't forget to maek with tippex the position for re-fitting, although mine actually came apart further up the joins???. The column then just pulls out.

- Now it's on to the pedal box itself. I first un-bolted the clutch pedal (13mm nut) and popped it off along with the nipple adjuster on top of it. Naturally the broken piece of metal in question followed... I think there was a connector or two to remove from here also.

- Now the brake pedal. If you remove to brake light switch (disconnect, twist and out) you can pull the pedal forward. Now the plastic clip that holds the pedal onto the servo rod. Yes you have to brake it, but I decided to weaken to retainers by drilling them on the left hand side using an angle/small drill. I then yanked the pedal forward and it popped off.

- Finally, undo 7 x 13mm nuts to get the pedal box out (+ one or two more electrical connectors). I had to push the servo out a bit for clearance.

So, thats where I'm up to. Took me ages really, though the sheer bolts really took up most of the time. Would love to know an easier way of removing them. Tomorrow Im getting it repaired and will put it all back... Hopefully in time for tea.

Martin :thumbup:

[corey2456]

My peldal box on my arosa went about a year ago, they charged me 280£ to get it fixed, have i been ripped off, also after a few months it was back to the way it was

[morganvw1]

Think this is happening with my Lupo. Ridgway in Newbury are arse. said they had never heard of it but I read above VW in Basingstoke have.

[SmallFrowne]

Feel bad this being my 1st post but any help much appreciated!...

Currently half way through doing this job on my girlfriend's car (2000 lupo 1.4), she went to vw today and got 2 sheer bolts and the plastic clip for the brake pedal.

However, the clip is slightly different and doesnt have the 2 circular bits on each side to hold it in place that the old one did (which i have sadly snapped), the part number was 1H2721169 as stated in numerous posts on this forum.

I've seen the pictures on the how to of the different clips but wondered if there was a different part number.

The guy in vw apparently wasn't very helpful and said that we'd need a new brake pedal which is when she rang me and I gave her that part number, thinking it would fit.

Any ideas? maybe he got it wrong? Trying to find an exploded parts catalog to check for myself but vagcat doesn't seem to be working and i cant find any other info doh

Paul

[SmallFrowne]

Here is a pic of the clip and the brake pedal if it helps

[morganvw1]

Car has been to a local garage and they say its not the pedal box... the thing is there is this niggle in the back of my mind that I just know the car is not right.

All the symptoms as stated in page one of this thread. I may just have to get the part and wait till it does go.

[chippi218]

mine completely snapped today

but me and my dad will be fixing it

[robertiles]

Thanks for the info.

I discovered my pedal box had broken clean away when I changed the clutch cable (cable fine, pedal box was the problem).

As Tempory fix till the new pedal box is fitted, I found a 32mm 1/2" socket used as a cable stop in the bulk head will work fine (the socket I had was a perfect fit for the cable and the hole in the bulk head, measure your's first).

The clutch pedal sits about 1/2 inch higher than the break pedal, but if you need the car running till you can make arrangements for a loaner, then this will see you tidy for a short while (and saves a knacked clutch plate/gear box).

Obviously this isn't as good as a new pedal box.

Robert.

Edited July 22, 2012 by robertiles

[Pete91]

If you aren't sure if it's your pedal box then you could remove the cover plate from the footwell and have a peek.

[TArosa]

Mine has been creaking for a few months now and the clutch pedal has dropped a decent amount. Just got to see how much long it will hold out till I get time. Few questions though, where is best to get the replacement? Dealers or eBay etc.? What's a rough price for the part?

[Pete91]

Thiry quid ish for the part. Might as well get a brand new from vw cos it's a common thing to go. If you go to a scrappy then it may end up going again. Also, it'd be a pain in the arse to get one out a scrappy...unless of course the steering column is already removed.

If it's starting to go then you'd be best getting it done asap otherwise you might end up stranded!!

[TArosa]

Thought about the scrappy but like you said its not worth the hassle of looking to see if it decent. And cheers for the help on the price, just waiting for my unit to be sorted as I only get weekends off and can't garantee the weather, will just have to stop using the clutch ha. Cheers again pete

[harrysteele9]

mine has done it luckily i got mine done for free, got it welded (dads a mechanic) thank god with the prices people are paying

[sharktech]

Aftnoon all

i need help in confirmng if mine has gone.

naturally the clutch pedal sits lower than the brake BUT i can lift it back and it stays, as soon as i press it down it stays in the lower position.

Looking under the dash i cant feel anything broken in the place that the break happens but i can see the following :

Looking at the clutch pedal, mine doesn't look the same as the ones I've seen :

I've also circled the above as these 2 aren't clipped to anything but do move together when you pull them towards you, if someone can enlighten me to what they do would be much appreciated.

Thanks

[Bigplum]

Pretty sure the two odd brackets are not vw , they look like the dual control linkages used on learner driver cars

[Luposelby]

Hi there club lupo users i was just wondering would this problem be fixed at any vw dealer or will i have to find which dealer my lupo was originally purchased from ? I would like to address this problem before it totally packs in on me.

many thanks sam

[Rich]

Hi there club lupo users i was just wondering would this problem be fixed at any vw dealer or will i have to find which dealer my lupo was originally purchased from ? I would like to address this problem before it totally packs in on me.

many thanks sam

Maybe if you get a time machine . . . . . . .

[Skezza]

After 117k miles of gear changes and what not, my pedal box started creaking last month. At first, I thought it was just the clutch cable, but it turns out I too, was suffering from the pedal box issue. Anyway, they can be welded, but I decided to buy a new one instead. I think welding it is a good shout but you should see the quality of a new one compared to the old one. Far better quality metal, and just better made on the whole. Less flexing. Makes you wonder why VW didn't put that kind of quality into the original design. Anyway, I've been told the new pedal boxes are designed to last over a million miles so should be okay. Here's hoping

I've got some photos I'll put them up tomorrow

[Skezza]

[nathanxjr]

Guys,

In my opinion, dont get it welded. I am now £200 lighter, it cracked with in two days of getting it welded. Got it welded again and cracked within 3 days. Cant get my under goodwill because it is too old. Im gonna change the pedal box myself. Just trying to work out the best technique to get the shear bolts out! wish me luck!