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Bigplum

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    Male
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    Cotswolds

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  • Currently Driving
    Land rover, MX5 , no 1 Lupo , number 2 & 3 lupo's in progress and a dead passat

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  1. Some punctuation would help your posts , I'm finding it hard to understand what your saying So you work in a bodyshop but are not sure if the body mouldings come off? , Or not sure how they come off , or not sure if they can go back on ? to remove get a heat gun and gently warm them to remove, a space heater directed at them would work too, sometimes the mouldings will deform / stretch and not be useable, any traces of the adhesive will need to be removed . Surely the guys in the body shop will help though?
  2. I'd have a good look round the wiring , sounds like a damaged wire or crappy connection, You can have Vagcom going as you drive , it might flag up something, As for the ecu , plenty of secondhand ones about and not over expensive to get them checked ,repaired and recoded Has anybody checked for fuelling issues? No blocked filters ? Damaged or squashed fuel lines ?
  3. The immo box is located to the left of the fuse box, black box about the size of a fag packet, follow the thinner black lead from the steering lock, nowt you can do it though. You may just have a problem with the key reading coil , that's a easy swap , just clips on steering lock. The fault may come up on vagcom , but its more likely to have lost the memory if its been jump stated and spiked/flashed You have a few choices , get it to main dealer and get it recoded. Find your local autolocksmith, they can recode for it for around £70 Buy a complete lockset that includes immo box , ecu, key and maybe instrument cluster, you won't need the key just the RFID chip from inside the key ,swap it all over and off you go . You need all the other parts as they are all linked
  4. Immo fault , the key needs to be recoded to the car, Your local auto locksmith can do it, costs about £70 , the main dealer will pull your pants down by chance have you dropped your key ? , the RFID chip inside the key fob can sometimes fall out after a hard impact, You may have also upset the ecu after jump starting , very easy to f*ck things up by jump starting modern cars,
  5. Egr valve ( on the exhaust manifold ). playing up , probably needs cleaning or replacing , worth checking connections too , some people blank them off
  6. Maybe the seal round the rear lights is failing, also check for leaves and rubbish round the top lip of the body, mine seems to attract lots of crud up there , the seal where the wiper was is also not the best. Sit in the boot whist someone gently sprays a hose pipe . As for the new seal fit it half way along the bottom at the straightest point, but before you do that , try some glycerin ( from the chemist ) works wonders on stiff rubber , caravan shops also sell something similar for leaky caravan windows , comes in a roll on type bottle and costs three times as much
  7. You may able to feed some stiff pipe up from the lower A pillar drain point , disconnect the rubber outlet , feed the stiff pipe in and up, (pushing the original ) it may give you enough at the sunroof side to reconnect , then with luck push the whole lot back thru and reconnect the lower drain, I try to avoid disconnecting the drains , use a net curtain flexi wire , great for clearing blockages , I use them regularly on my MX5 roof drains , silly cheap too ! Might be an idea to get a long length and feed that in first , it will prevent you loosing the pipe route
  8. YouTube video, shows the older polo lock but the idea is the same http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lirCTsXw3CQ&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DlirCTsXw3CQ
  9. So the wheels & tyres have been checked out, no lumps ,bulges or delamination of the tyre ? Wheel balance ok?, wheel ok not buckled or flat spotted ? So what's left , wheel bearings , they rumble when worn , get louder with speed , easy and cheap to fix , if you are handy that is Cv joints , They clunk and ping and bang whilst turning sharp under load* Still easy to fix , just buy a complete drive shaft from a motor factors Diff bearings and output bearings , rumble & get louder with speed, gearbox rebuild time , bearing kits on eBay for about £100 * one way to check cv joints , go find a empty car park , drive car round on full lock ,try the left then the right whilst giving it a bit of throttle , if the cv joints are shot they will moan like buggery ,But in extreme circumstances when doing that the joint can pop out , leaving you stranded
  10. It's a fiddle but do-able , but check your parts , the paddle lengths are different whilst some the kits do not take that into account. There are some YouTube guides if you search vw locks , It really helps to have a vice as a fair bit of tension is needed to put it back together. I used a spare old key in the vice to hold the barrel vertical , then you may need a third hand to help to slide the collar in
  11. You did say 30/40 then changed up , even 30 in second is being cruel
  12. 40mph in second gear ?? Start saving for a gearbox Still sounds like CV joint , but ragging the tits out of it will just kill the box , lupo gearboxes are rather weak
  13. Try putting the ARB back in the correct position and check all the rubber bushes on the wishbones , strut mounts and lower ball joints If the problem persists , raise the car until the clonking stops .
  14. Off to the scrapyard , they are the same on 6n polos , doubt its worth trying to fix the switch back together , I think the steering wheel has to come off though. The covers unscrew by the way , two screws in the recesses and one big one visible from underneath , The left and right stalks are separate parts too
  15. It only checks IQ if you try and taste the tyre as it goes round, When was the gearbox oil level checked? , lupos can leak from the selector shaft , the box runs dry and destroys fifth gear , If its a rapid clonking sound on turning , it could be the CV joint failing.
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