Skezza

I like this.

Purge in the tank does nothing really. We both know that. Did you not do the full setup like I've said before. That includes running your own independent fuel source from a pop bottle or something?

Have they thrown in an aftermarket wiring loom? Ironically enough, the loom itself is aftermarket but the sockets are all ISO and would probably still work with the OEM radio. Worth a check.

Anti-Hijack with the button on the door doesn't need coding in. Automatic anti-hijack does. Takes 5 mins to code in no problem. Automatic window rolling up is not so easy and I very much doubt can be coded in. Some aftermarket kits have it included.

How often does it do this? It points to a voltage sag. Do both window switches do it? What about headlights? Being a GTi somewhat clouds the game a little because the ballasts will provide some capacitance ( @mattarosa? Am I right?) and as such a dip in brightness might not be seen. Brake or tail lights might be a good one if someone is stood behind you. I am still not convinced by your alternator.... or the earth. You said the battery has been swapped out so I'm assuming this is good. How sure are you of the voltages you're measuring? How did you go about taking the measurements? I'm also not convinced you haven't got a ropey earth somewhere.

The story continues....

On a 1.0???? You're taking the mick aren't you .... We both know it's not just that easy, let's be honest. Where's the turbo manifold coming from mate?

Just try jump starting it. Some of these electrical gremlins scream worn alternator + failing battery.... at least to me. Might be wrong, but can't hurt.

I don't know why..... But I'd be interested to see what happened if you tried jump starting it off another car with a good battery.

That sounds like ****. If the central locking isn't working, i can't see why that's got much, if anything to do with the ECU. It is controlled by the CCM.

https://xtrons.co.uk/double-din-android-8-0-te706pl-1 Get this one or https://www.eonon.co.uk/Android-Car-Stereo/2-Din-Car-Stereo/Brand-New-Android-8-4G-RAM-Octa-core-32G-ROM-Spli-Screen-DSP-features-with-fully-digital-processing-chip-from-ADI.html Quality is fine. Xtrons are probably the best hence more expensive than the competition. Eonon is okay. Fit like any other double din. Startup times almost instant assuming you have it wired in correctly. I've owned two Xtrons, very happy with both. Don't get the Pie versions, they're actually newer hardware but spec'd much lower than the PX5.

1.4 Petrol 75 BHP 0-60 13.6 seconds 41 MPG Insurance Gp 9 VED £160 - £200 Arguably one of the worst spec petrol cars ever made?

Because you'd be lucky to get 500 quid for it and they're kind of comfy? Imagine what the 1.4 is like.....

Doing 45 in 5th gear for 100 miles?

It's not about CO2 anymore though is it? It's about NOx. CO2 is actually harmless to humans, it's harmful to the environment. NOx is harmful to humans and the environment. We knew this 20+ years ago, hence why the way diesels have been handled by HM Gov is shameful in my opinion.

3.2V6?

Hence why I see no future for diesel. Hm gov want them off the road really.

I'm genuinely getting 40mpg out of the 1.8T. It's definitely more gutless than my last one though.

It's not so much the dirty part, it's the horrible part. We both know how agricultural they are.... but yes, there's a reason they're 30 quid tax. Still can't take them into London though right? I have a soft spot for the SDI's mate. You know that. I'm thinking of buying one as a backup car.

I think it might have the Winter upgrade pack. It has the electric mirrors, fogs and i think the winter pack might have come with heated washer jets? Couple of nice touches.

Price is still a bit high for me. The mileage on the SDI's doesn't matter so much. Those engines will genuinely run forever. I sold mine on 172k and it was lovely.... for a horrible dirty diesel. Still, the mileage is an indicator of potential other wear points. I must say, the interior on that, much like mine, is in fine nick. I can't decide if the Lupo interior was simply harder wearing than other VW's at the time, or if the owners of Lupo's tend to be more caring? How many MK4 Golf's do you see with utterly ruined seats?

Wow is that so? Didn't know that. I've done very little research on the 3L, short of simply wanting to own one for years. While most consider the GTI the holy grail of Lupo's, it's always been the 3L for me. It's really easy to make a hot hatchback. I mean for gods sake, Hyundai make one now (N30) and it's pretty damned nice. Just stick a well-tuned engine in a car that handles well, add a naughty little bodykit and there you go. Job done. The feat of engineering behind the 3L was truly remarkable. Only now, 20 odd years on are the motoring authorities starting to appreciate what VW accomplished. It was a total aberration at the time. Fuel was still cheap enough that you didn't need to think about your MPG, so you had lazier companies (Ford come to mind) throwing archaic engines into crappy rust-prone little hatchbacks (I won't mention which, but we all know the one). VW were so far ahead of the curve, it's taken a full 20 years for motor journalists and what not to appreciate what the 3L was. A real shame they never blessed Britain with a limited run.

What the hell, I paid about £60 via insurance, albeit a few years ago? How bad is the crack? You could fix it yourself? Done that myself on two or three different cars with great success.

I'm not a Chemist, so I won't claim to fully understand the science behind it. My understanding is that on it's own, cold, it is a stable solution, when mixed with the hydrogen it then reacts with heat + the addition of air to harden. The coolant system is under about what, 5psi of pressure ( @Rich )? So not the highest pressure, but an inevitable amount of liquid usually rushes to the path of least resistance. The the 'gel' begins to react and is subsequently forced out of the hole..... the instant air + intense heat causes it to quickly harden and boom you have your fix. I am wary about these kind of fixes for two reasons: - It is only inevitable that some will harden inside the coolant system during performing the initial treatment. You simply can't escape that fact unless you vacuum filled your coolant system. That is ultimately a risk you have to take and well, I think is probably an acceptable evil. - However..... you've then got to drain the mixed up solution and don't forget, you've already started the reaction now so how the hell do you ensure it doesn't harden even more while draining it? Can you be sure once the reaction has started that when cooled, it still isn't hardening. I'm not a chemist, so I can't answer that. As a fix, It's not very deterministic because cars have different cooling systems, so you can easily put too much or too little in. Ultimately though, there's an element of "well it's a crappy old 1.0E with 104k miles on, why not" going on and I get that. I'd never use it on a GTI, TDI, 3L etc.