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Sausage

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Sausage last won the day on June 28

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    Llanelli

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  • Currently Driving
    Lupo TDI Sport

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  1. Sausage

    Lupo 3L mapping

    When you get your boost working make sure your torque map is conservative, the 3L has preengagement on the clutch and it will slip way earlier than a manual converted 3L but 100HP should be no real problem from stock engine
  2. Sausage

    200 to fix this

    It's an old arosa not a GTI.
  3. Sausage

    Lupo 3L mapping

    Yes some need extra columns and rows, or you have to alter existing values instead: My boost target map (svbl limits it below 2.4 mind)
  4. Sausage

    200 to fix this

    £60 more like to patch that little corner. Rear beam looks crusty might want to prod and poke around a bit more before deciding what to do with it.
  5. Sausage

    Lupo 3L mapping

    I havnt looked at this stuff for ages but I'd recommend starting again on stock map as you have made lots of changes and are seeing no real results and messing with IQ requires calculations not just slapping numbers in or altering them by %. Your maps arent showing btw so cant look at them. You didnt mention SVBL or boost limit map which is likely why you arent seeing much difference, look at the main limiting maps and find the one with the lowest IQ or boost that is what is holding you back at that particular point. There is free power in the stock maps without touching SOI etc plus as said IQ needs to be calculated. There are some good guides about if you can find them.
  6. A complete 10x6 greenhouse including all the glass...
  7. Mole grips with a bit of copper padding will do it without messing up the shock under the arch between the spring coils. Or hammer a hex in there.
  8. Impact gun. Or if the strut is knackered some stilsons (pipe wrench) on the strut between the springs.
  9. Eibachs and Konis on mine very nice. Dont go for big heavy wheels they ruin the ride.
  10. No idea but at a guess i would say ecu is expecting a load that doesnt materialise or there is a problem with belts, pulley clutches or alternator. If aircon works, belts arent slipping, check out alternator is delivering correct volts.
  11. Mine also has remap and was doing on hills in 3rd or 4th, boost out of spec for more than x seconds = limp mode. I altered SVBL in map and adjusted driving style (dont hold pedal still while going up hill for more than a few seconds). Dirty maf makes it much more likely also, K&N filter had to go. Get codes read. You could also log the boost and see what it is doing actual vs requested. If yours is really only doing it in 5th gear at high revs then i would think something else is going on though...
  12. I havent changed one no, the whole kit inc the crank cog is expensive (febi 43667 kit about £150 cheapest) the chain itself can be had for £30 but new chain on old cogs isnt an especially clever plan. Simple enough to change but needs the balance shaft timed on the chain links. Pull the cover and have a good look. Any scraping on the cover, obvious chain wear or very worn guides would kick me into changing one.
  13. The chain drive is a stupid idea, but to be fair the AMF engine seems the best of the 3 pot variants for that point of failure, no idea why as the hardware is the same.
  14. Get fault codes read pref with vcds. Possibly a boost deviation and it goes into limp mode. Switching the ecu (ignition) off then on again resets it. You can do that driving along if you are careful. Mine used to do it stooging up a hill in 3rd or 4th. P1556 is the code. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17964/P1556/005462
  15. Very light oil if you use it, just make sure threads in the hole and on the studs are clean. Dont chuck lots of oil down the hole or you can get a false bottom and crack the hole with hydraulics.
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