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tigcraft last won the day on May 8

tigcraft had the most liked content!

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About tigcraft

  • Birthday 10/01/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Holmfirth West Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Classic vehicle restoration and motorcycles

Previous Fields

  • Currently Driving
    Arosa tdi, vw caddy Kombi, bmwf800gt, triumph Bonneville MZ ETZ250 and possibly more!

Recent Profile Visitors

1,863 profile views
  1. Ditto as above. It’s a delicate task repairing vehicle to a ‘professional’ std and most people can’t do it. They are a labour of love and in this case the car mentioned is just not worth it. A lot of people don’t see the work in it and as much as you help them and explain they are stubborn and have to learn the hard way.
  2. That’s very pretty, it’s like a cute ‘jewel’. I always thought that colour looked old but that’s complimented it all
  3. Whoever’s bought it deserves it!
  4. Then there’s front panel, bonnet hinges always go and possibly runs into a corner windscreen break, intercooler, radiator, alternator, boot floor and possibly any door gap trailing edges to stretch back. Doing one end is enough on any car. Done it professionally for decades and it gets tiring then got into restoration!!
  5. I see it at £600 and that’s generous. You’ve engine, box, average gti interior, wheels and a few bits of ‘free’ trim to balance the value. There’s labour to pick it up and a day to break it, label it and shelve what’s rest. A breaker would pay £300- £400 that’s all
  6. It’s too expensive to repair which is the problem even done on the cheap. You end up with a 170k car and on the hit list for £3k done if it’s to it’s previous well kept condition. It’s also too expensive as a parts car
  7. That’s what I paid for my shields. It’s a lot of money for something very minimalist but I’ve seen so many corners cut underneath as it’s ‘not seen’ on cars I was determined to fit the lot. I’ve to sort the brake flexis out as yet so that’s still to do. Re-wishbone bottom ball joint bolts, yes mine were not tight nor were they right way round either. When I corrected all that the bolts were like cheese so I had to replace them with 8.8 grade (possibly could have got harder grade). I still can’t fathom out why they’re not right although listed for ‘lupo’ and @MK2 recons they are all same
  8. Wheel bearing by the sounds
  9. I don’t have an answer to the drive shaft striking the subframe when it didn’t touch before I fitted new wishbones. Unfortunately the old ones have been weighed in to do an accurate comparison
  10. Posted on another one of my threads but probably better to start a new one. Lupo 2318mm wheel base Arosa 2323mm?? Where the 5mm at? After putting my suspension back together on my Tdi Arosa with my new ‘lupo’ wishbones I noticed the nsf making a noise and found out that the drive shaft is catching the subframe only on braking when the suspension is compressed. I’ve temporarily set the track control arms but my steering wheel can’t be set level. Any ideas?
  11. The fun continues..... Slotted every thing together and wondered why the tracking was so way out as I didn’t meddle with it.... The steering wheel was well out too and I’ve been scratching my head trying to work things out. Wishbones are brand new and complete with ball joints and arb drop links..... Anyway on to a different matter, i set things up as temp for the time being just so I could get it to a laser track. I ran it for about 15 miles and it was all over the place. I started to hear a sound on the nsf when braking that got worse. The car since then has been left p
  12. How bad is yours as I’ve just reconditioned mine back to original without too much hassle. Hardest part was waiting for the blaster to clean it
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