mk2

The OBD2 is in the ashtray. You need to lift out the insert (that fills with ash). What were the symptoms?

That'd be awesome. How to pair the ID44/ID48 chip and how to pair the wireless entry. Two of my Lupos still only have one key...

Yeah, read things here and there. But they are the exact same engine... Polo, A2 and Lupo. I wish vdub would bring back the AHU 1.9 TDI lump (and derivatives). Such a good engine. Clean burning, efficient and low emissions too. Better than the new 2L thing.

A2 forum has some interesting stuff... https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/1-4-tdi-oil-pump-balance-shaft-chain-and-chain-tensioner-replacement.35539/ https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/hydraulic-timing-belt-tensioner.37613/ https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/603491-TB-WP-question My SDIs all still fine on around 110k each. But I've rebuilt injectors, gearboxes and starter motors (they get noisy). And reupholstered one driver's seat (imported the fabric from a passenger seat in Germany). I think @danno has done his Tdi tensioner. @Rich , is "koop" northern speak for road salt?

Still on original chain tensioner? They normally go around 160k miles.

Oops. Wall? So you'll need a new door and someone good at getting dents out. Fixable, but a fair bit of work. Maybe 20h work and about £250 in bits.

Wierd. Pic?

Wow, still looking...?! mind you, good (unmolested) ones are hard to find now. And you don't want a jap import...

Is the bolt in the centre of the flange, that holds the diff together still tight? Something doesn't sound right. Personally, I'd pull it. You gotta check the flange bolts anyway, so they need to come out. Then just the other side, clutch and gear linkages, engine bolts and out. Worth it for peace of mind, as new boxes are beginning to get hard to find. Cheaper to fix/refurb a good box... Just thought- does your diff have that 'limited slip' friction sleeve thing in? You know, the little cone shaped brass ring thing that sits on one of the output shafts, pushed by a compressed spring. If it does, it may have broken and dropped out? I've always thought that they're a waste of time. High powered cornering and all that...

Still pretty active these days on here. Mainly enthusiasts now, as becoming too expensive to get cheap cars fixed by pros. Pic of your car and we'll tell you which rims are perfect...

Have you got access to all the internal vw data @Rich ?

@rich if you can get it to him in Durham. Or, for a pint or something he might be persuaded to come out and swap it for a good one

Dude, you'll need to take it to someone or read the gearbox/pedalbox thread. You can do it, but it's not the easiest thing in the world to get right. You'll need a pillow...

If the cam to crank is out, it'd be game over. Might be injector pump pulley? Remive the plastic cover and at TDC check to see if the holes line up. Within diagnostics, look at the PWM power needed for the pump timing injector advance system. If not somewhere around 70% at idle, that'll tell you that the pump timing is out (especially if 0 or 100%). Also check the injection quantity on each injector squirt at idle. Should be about the smae. If one is out (blocked) the others will be compensating to keep it as smooth as it can be. Just had a thought- if the injector pump is out, it knocks if too advanced or wont start easily if too retarded.

Same as a mini, but no pushrods. Overhead cam. Never done an old mini. Everything else about the same, but more plastic everywhere. No cork.... unless you find a bottle of something when getting too tricky. Unless it's a simple leak somewhere? Down on power, starts and idles ok? -maybe not head gasket

Blown head gasket...? Or is it just condensation, caused by lots and lots of really short trips (under tens mins). welcome to club lupo

Nice.

OMG! This is freaking unbelievable. I wish you were nearby. ok, so it has to be related to ignition. Or a power rail fault, maybe via a relay? And intermittant at that. Not throttle body. Nope. You can always check the TPS output by watching the throttle % demand from the pedal as you move it on the laptop (I think it's a cable, not drive by wire in that model?). If powered throttle body, it usually goes into limp mode, which allows it ti start and only gives you a fast idle. More air than a regular idle... so will always start. This is nuts. You have practically rebuilt the damn thing. Respect. And you haven't completely lost it.... yet. I wonder... Can you measure 5v at the sensors? Oh, and check the earth (continuity) bus while you're at it. The behaviour is like a coil pack or plug lead/dizzy is failing. But from all the stuff you've changed, I'm pretty sure it can't be. But you 'can' get very similar symptoms when a relay is iffy. Like the engine loom power bus isn't quite right. I'm shaking my head. I had a similar issue with an SDI, where I changed everything to try and eliminate a loud ticking noise while idling. Read about it on here somewhere, 2 years ago. In the end I even swapped the whole engine as I was convinced it was a broken ring. The ticking came back. It was a dodgy injector. Even though I had 3 sets of injectors, all of which had been properly matched, calibrated and bench tested- and were known to be good. Yeah, it happens to all of us.

Skezza, do you unsolder chip or read it with software via OBD2?

Forcefully decided by ULEZ? Any pics, incl inside, boot, footwells and engine bay?

Good work. I also get my upholstery stuff from germany, but only because the passenger seat over there (hardly used) is usually like new. Just needs a decent wet vac on arrival and all good. Who are French touch upholstery? Retrimming seats is quite easy ince you see all the tricks an experienced master uses... I usually do it all myself now, including the sewing! I'm just very slow. The upholstery pocket wire pull back wires in the foam slots are the trickiest bit. Also what floor mat is that?

Bargain. Sounds like "a minter". It's what I'm trying to get my Lupos to be like once more.

I've been down the exact same road, but not on a Lupo so feel your pain... There is something wierd about vdub plug leads. They all fail. My gut feeling is that it has something to do with the metal heat shroud around the plug end. If you carefully remove the outside metal bits, you'll see that the leads start working again. Nothing to do with the resistance (as they are meant to be resistive leads to reduce radio interference). I think the metal bit which is earthed, somehow shorts out the HT- which doesn't show up on a regular meter test. I have seen the metal bit pierce the insulation over time, but only enough to short out the HT. Try it and let us know what you find...

Yeah, but how do you pair it on a Lupo? Other vdubs are a well documented procedure. I know that a few Germans have figured out how to do the chip and wireless pairing, but they won't elaborate on their methods. Unless it's all BS.... I have tried and failed. Other dubs no problem.