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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    After weekend of messing about, my window is working again. But I don't think I fixed anything at all. Ok, so one of my Lupos decided recently that the passenger side electric window wasn't going to play any more. It was shut and didn't want to open. All it did is make a click sound every time I pressed the down (or up) switch. This happened with both the driver's and passenger's side window control switches. My first thought was that the Central Convenience Module (CCM) had thrown a tantrum as is so often the case in our Lupos. It affects central locking, window behaviour and interior lights (plus a few other bits). Locks were ok, as was the inside light. So I thought I'd check if I could control the windows without using the control switches- by using the door locks. There's a handy feature on all electric window Vdubs where if you want to open all the electric windows at the same time without getting into the car, you simply insert key into driver's door lock and turn it to the unlock position and hold it there for five seconds. (To close them all you lock it for 5 secs.). The driver's window opened no problem. Passenger side; Nothing. By the way, this fault is different to the really common wire rope snapping, the glass clamp breaking loose or the track or pulleys getting jammed (often caused by trying to work the windows when they've been glued shut with ice (or frost). Sticky or slow windows just need some silicone oil sprayed onto the felt window tracks to help them slide more easily. So off with the door cards. Carefully cut or peel the waterproofing membrane away from the top only (to be reused- essential!). Reach in and unplug the motor connector (not easy). Tape the glass up to the top of the door so it doesn't drop down. Reach up and slightly loosen (but don't remove) the two 10mm glass clamp bolts (also not easy). Gently unhook the plastic cable 'X' stay from the door. Unbolt the five 10mm bolts/nuts and carefully remove the entire assembly. So far all pretty standard stuff. At this point you could spend money and just get another new assembly, swap over and reassemble. The following pics I took while working show what you need to do to sort out a clicking motor that doesn't want to work. It's all basically just cleaning and testing. I pulled everything to pieces, cleaned a LOT of dust off the PCB and the two sensors, wiped bits of metal off the magnet ring and washed any carbon brush material off the PCB using brake and clutch cleaner fluid. Then put it all back together again. I couldn't find any faults. My guess is that the bits of metal stuck to the magnet ring messed with the output pulses and carbon brush dust, which conducts electricity partly shorted out the components on the PCB. The relay also appeared to work just fine- you can't test it without removing it from the PCB because 12V goes backwards into the circuit (which would damage it). Trickiest bits are unsoldering the PCB without damaging anything and then putting the brushes back in. An extra pair of hands is useful there. I suspect that during factory assembly, they use a plastic 'loading ring', sliding the rotor in place while a thin rigid plastic tube holds back the brushes. The rest of reassembly is the reverse of dismantling. The easy way out would be to simply swap the motor/gearbox over which was my first choice. But they are unique to Lupos/Arosas; I couldn't find one anywhere (for a reasonable price).
  2. 3 points
    I'd say the colour thing is preference, for example I really dislike black cars. You justify my comment with your cunty comment.
  3. 3 points
    Some nice pictures from the trackday have come through Also, dropped the car off for a full front end respray Saturday, the stone chips were getting seriously bad so it was time to do something about it. It's then going for front end PPF (paint protection film) to try and make it last as long as possible
  4. 2 points
    Hi Just wanted to share this ..After nearly a year ... it’s had a good polish. I was pleased. With how it shines up !
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    What does everyone think of the drop?
  7. 2 points
    My 2005 Laser Blue Gti 💓
  8. 2 points
    Update since Feb. Fixed another set of small yet annoying issues. Steering Column was loose and make a bit of a "clunking" feeling when turning, turns out this was the column not being held tightly by the bolt that holds it to the chassis. Tightened this and all is well. Door check strap replaced Rear brakes stripped and rebuilt to stop them binding. All heater controls now working properly as they should. Full service Cambelt & Water pump change. Finally ordered some new wheels after deciding a refurb of the Bathursts wasn't worth it given the condition they were in. They should be here this week. The car is having a full respray next week to sort out all of the scratches and dents over the car, hopefully after then it should be pretty much perfect.
  9. 2 points
    Update Time So car went into the garage. They inspected the pedal box and he said all looked good to him, he thinks it might have been replaced already, he said something along the lines of the bolts looks like they have been out already. So for him no point replacing the box just yet, so that's very honest of them. Secondly, i had the clutch cable checked over and adjusted, they got rid of the slack for me and so the car feels better when operating the clutch, Thirdly, they did a mini inspection and found a few niggles which i had already identified, the tracking is out causing some inner wear on my nearly bald tyres, and the front, rear bushings for the front triangle bit (forget the name) need looking at in the near future. So i will get them ordered and swapped out before the MOT. Theres a slight blow in the exhaust coming from the mid section which has had a dodgey weld repair before, so could get it welded or might treat the old girl to a full system, that way i can be sure of no leaks in the years to come. Lastly, the best news of all... After all the time i tried to diagnose the engine light and changing the sensor, all it needed was 15mins of the right pair of hands, to figure out it was a crappy wire, so fixed that up, connected back into the plug and bam engine light gone... but best of all.. the insane amount of power is back haha! Pulls so well in all gears now!! Im so happy and only cost £100. Looking forward to ordering a few new parts, Exciting times! Long live my Lupo
  10. 2 points
    So seeing as we are finallly allowed to go for a drive, i've been making the most of it recently. I went for a bit of a blast last night with a mate in his Clio 200, they are very well matched on the road, his is more setup for track so a bit too stiff for the roads. Straight line performance they are exactly the same! We've booked a trackday at Snett for 4th June also Would of been rude not to take a few pictures
  11. 2 points
    Some more from today. There are some scratches and blemishes that it's going into the paint shop for in a couple of weeks and the wheels are being refurbed.
  12. 2 points
    Well I replaced the seal today and so far so good. Apart from being a bit of a faff to get the old one out it went pretty well. Shaft looked ok too so I greased the new seal up and knocked it in square with a socket. I'll see how it goes when it's warmed up as that's when it seems to drop the most oil but for now I'm happy. Thanks everyone for your help so far
  13. 2 points
    Thought I'd finally add the "how-to" which people keep asking about.... Old EGR systems jam up or just don't work once the car is over about 50k miles or 10 years. The soot builds up and mixes with oil blow by droplets/fumes which mix together to form a sticky, gungy mess that is very difficult to shift (inside the engine). The backs of inlet valves get coated and coked up and inlet ducts get smaller and smaller reducing air flow. In a diesel engine, less air means less power. Also lots of hardened crud builds up right around the injector nozzles affecting the spray pattern. And because the ECU has no idea that the engine is clogged up, it still delivers the same quantity of fuel as if the car were brand new. So with excess fuel and not much air, the emissions suffer terribly, resulting in even more soot and lots of smoke from the exhaust. Clogging up the oxidising catalyst and subsequently an MOT fail. Even fitting a brand new air filter just before MOT time doesn't help, to try and suck in that last bit of fresh air. There are three solutions to get the car running like new again- 1. Clean out the inlet system and decoke the cylinder head. Fit a brand new EGR valve. (BTW cellulose thinners works best to remove the black goop) 2. Clean out the inlet system- if you really want to- and disconnect the two vacuum hoses to the choke flap and EGR valve. That will help improve the system a lot. (block the vacuum pipes so nothing gets sucked in) 3. Clean out the inlet system, block off the EGR system, plug the exhaust gas inlet ducts to make the air flow more laminar, disconnect the choke flap vacuum pipe and divert the low oxygen sump gases away from the inlet. (my favourite solution for 15% more power and phenominal MPG). Pics follow:
  14. 2 points
    LOL! Maybe we just have our own own names for everything... I suppose if everyone understands each other who cares. I thought that a drive flange is the flat bit that a wheel or inner CV attaches to with bolts. As in it "flanges out". What do I know? The knee bone is connected to the hip bone. The hip bone is connected to...
  15. 2 points
    I do love my SDIs. Yesterday I did 320 miles on half a tank. Phone playing all my fav tunes and heating on just right. Cruising along the motorways enjoying the scenery. The best bit- I know there aren't many cars that cost that little to own per mile (including everything)
  16. 2 points
    This is a good site I use... https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/search.html?damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&isSearchRequest=true&makeModelVariant1.makeId=25200&makeModelVariant1.modelId=21&scopeId=C&sfmr=false&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&sortOption.sortOrder=ASCENDING
  17. 2 points
    There's more to life than mpg....
  18. 2 points
    I'm biased. Mk2 is IMO the best car ever made. Sure there are lots of compromises, but taking everything into account it wins. Noisy. Yes. Uncomfortable. Yes. Economical. No. Simple. Yes. Reliable. Kind of. Fun. Sort of. Easy to maintain and repair. Yes. Well made. Absolutely. Do they last. Yes. 30 years old now and neglected cars that occasionally pop up on ebay are still running (just). You can't say that for just about any other car. 👍🏻 I have more than one Lupo however....
  19. 2 points
    Welcome to club lupo! I'd keep it 100% standard. Easier to maintain and worth more when you sell it again. There aren't that many about now...
  20. 2 points
    It does look a little big to me too. I've been running this badge on mine for years, it's from a MK2 Golf GTI 10th Anniversary Edition, I found it at VW Spring Fest years ago, think it looks great! Might be hard to find now though....
  21. 2 points
    When you sell it, don't just sell it as a cheap small runabout for a new driver. As there are fewer than 10 left on the UK's roads, you need to make that a selling point. It's like Mk2 golfs... even the nastiest poverty spec "Golf C" now goes for very good money as there are so few original one's left!
  22. 2 points
    A 6th gear that's a great bonus 👍
  23. 1 point
    If pipe 5 in the drawing gets hot when the pump is running (ac selected), it means you're compressing gas, so you 'should' get some cold. @RAB is right about the switch though. There's a high low switch which cuts off the compressor (to avoid damage). Too high- off. Too low- off. Somewhere inbetween - on. The clutch should engage and disengage as you select AC. You can see the flat plate bit, furthest from the pump, in the middle of the pulley. When off, it shouldn't turn. When on, the electromagnet pulls on it engaging the plate clutch. Very simple system. Usually the bearing wears out before the compressor packs up. New compressor seals are about £3- little ceramic graphite things, a bit like a ceramic tap valve. My bet is that the evaporator (bit inside the car is clogged with gunge= low air flow), or like you say lowish gas. The fan should run when ac is on.
  24. 1 point
    Service union under the brake servo.
  25. 1 point
    As mk2 said, this is probably the best way, i did this with my classic mini (probably a little more involved on the lupo) But put your switch somewhere hidden but also not a pain in the arse for you to get to when sitting in the car.
  26. 1 point
    like @C3peteo says, can you actually move the selector out of park, through R to N? If not, could be the lock solenoid or ignition lock- nothing to do with the box at all.
  27. 1 point
    There's a 1L in A1 breakers in Winnersh area. I think it's been pretty much stripped given how scarce Lupos are down here, but the wings were still on, so the clips might be still there. I don't have a single one that's not on a car. I think I've seen them on ebay for a few quid. Might be worth a bit of research time...?
  28. 1 point
    On a standard shock, the setup to get the camber right is to get the lower edge of the wheel as close into the car as poss, while pulling the top of the wheel out. But my guess is that you have loads of adjustment slop? You could find a level car park and setup the camber using a spirit level. Staright ahead should be vertical or about 0.2 to 1degree positive. I'd start with the ball joints first- push them is as far as they go and lock off the three bolts. Then mess with the shocks to get the angle right. Then finally tracking...
  29. 1 point
    Way better condition than mine underneath! Waxoyl it all now....
  30. 1 point
    Hope everyone is keeping well during this strange time. As i'm sure many of you are just as bored as me, it leads to us doing things we wouldn't usually do! Removed my RARB today as the orginal costing had started to fail so I cleaned it up as best I could and gave it a fresh coat of Satin Black. Also refreshed the brake fluid as well, wouldn't say it neccessarily needed it sonce the last one was around 10 months ago but for something to do! Brake fluid choice was Motul RBF 660, always had good results with ths! Whilst the wheels were off, gave them a good clean inside and out
  31. 1 point
    Lol ok cool . Like I said didn't see it had been that long since last post and just wanted to put some pictures of the missus car up to see what people thought of it.
  32. 1 point
    I flipped my Micra outside their gaff when I was 19. I avoid that road.
  33. 1 point
    It's looking good so far!!
  34. 1 point
    I'd go straight pipe to the rear silencer.
  35. 1 point
    3Ls are very rare here in the uk, usually a personal import i believe. You might get lucky though... You can pick up a good SDI still if you wait as they do come up every now and then. Lots of neglected cars about though, that usually get scrapped... good ones hold their value like Gtis. welcome to CL
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    This is just going to be slapped together and MOT'd. I will try and show it some love after that.
  38. 1 point
    Is this going to be like a kidnapping, where you post little bits of you Lupo one at a time? They look to be a really good refurbishment, centre caps usually don't come out 100% - but yours look mint.
  39. 1 point
    I’d rather not say, it was originally posted on Facebook for £750 before the lady was accused of being a fraudster etc. Anyway fast forward a few offers off other people, the price did increase, not dramatically. Seemed to cause quite the stir on the Facebook group. But it was a decent price, well worth the money.
  40. 1 point
    First thing I'd check is the pollen filter. Replace if not been replaced in a long time or unsure when it was last done. Then as mk2 said
  41. 1 point
    Hel really are the best brake lines out there - happy to say I have been a Hel user for many years. By using all stainless they completely moved the goal posts that the former go-to Goodridge had put up with rusty steel fittings. If you ever need a custom line, go to Hel direct, they make them up to order, whatever length and fittings you require, turn around is good too - seem to recall next day service each time I used them. One question on your front brakes - did you clean out the sliders? and re-grease?
  42. 1 point
    The Janspeed rear ‘box isn’t that much louder than the original VW cat back it replaced- in all fairness though, the original centre ‘box did have a hole in it which was only apparent when it was cut off, it was right on top where the MOT testers couldn’t really see it.... I have got some recent video footage of it at idle after warm up which I will try and upload here, it might take me a while though so don’t hold your breath.... Managed to upload it quicker than I thought.... The Janspeed was a bit of an accident, I started asking the seller about postage and ended up buying it.... Martin.
  43. 1 point
    Thought I'd update this thread, as everything looks like it's changed in the Photo hosting sites world, since this was first posted about ten years ago. You can now add pics to a thread, but if you just add them direct from your phone library or laptop or whatever, they may be too big- lots of mega pixels- so you need to resize them down to something like 800x600. You'll be stopped and then get a message if they are too big. The image you will have just uploaded is now stored on the club lupo server, so should be there forever. Unless the site storage costs start to become too expensive. @MattyB who helps maintain the server/hosting keeps expanding the site's memory allocation for all of us every now and then. (Click on ad links occasionally, as it pays for this site- then delete all your browser's cookies.) You can add more than one pic, but the total size is limited. I've also noticed that it is time and day limited, so if you want to keep adding pics to a thread, you'll need to spread them out in time. I don't fully understand the algorithm that sets the size limits... You can still host pics on 3rd party sites and link to them, but as you may have already noticed, many old threads no longer show the images (which in the last month has happened to tinypic- now a paid service). But if you want the image to be there 'forever' keep it in house, as 3rd party image hosts change all the time. If you are reading a thread and an image isn't visible, it will have been hosted on a third party site. Chances are that the site no longer exists, or something has changed on that site which blocks external viewing. There are loads of threads now that look completely abandoned and forgotten in time. But more often than not they are still being used by people as a very useful reference. The only thing I can suggest is to contact the member who posted the image and ask them to upload it again- if they still have it. This is especially true for "how-to" threads- You can check the last time a member was logged in by checking their profile. If it's been a few months or years, they probably no longer use club lupo. If there's an image missing in an old thread and you have no luck tracking down the owner, it's always worth making a public request to ask for someone else to take a new pic and post it
  44. 1 point
    Couple more pics, don't think I will ever get tired of looking at this car!
  45. 1 point
    It's obsolete from VW now but the part number was 6X0 803 550 A and should look like a metal bar as shown in yellow below
  46. 1 point
    Sorry if I am reading between the lines here, but it is the battery box, is your battery not bolted down? It should have a bracket and bolt + the vent goes to the battery, tube connects onto a 90 degree elbow that is usually included with the terminal covers on new batteries: If its not bolted down, it would be an MOT fail as it could move around in a n accident, short out and start a fire.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    More info on the eraser wheel? I use fishing nylon - it’s quite a bit tougher than dental floss
  49. 1 point
    Hi guys Has anyone ever changed the oil in the standard gearbox for the Lupo GTI? (Mine's the 5-speed) or is it a 'sealed for life' unit? My car's done 106k now and I've never done the job above, think it might be a good idea Is it a simple job and what oil is recommended? Fanks
  50. 1 point
    Just in relation to my above question, i didnt get any feedback from this of where the above resistor was located, i done a quick search under the dash and located it simply in the passenger footwell, up in the corner under the lower pocket, simply above the small cover thats under their. its held on by two small bolts and their is a connection going in. I took off the resistor and noticed it rusty and cracked, meaning that was the reason my heater would not work on number 1 - 3 . I purchased another resistor pack on ebay, it was off a VW Polo 2001, but it had the same part number as the Lupo, it fitted straight on. simple job, took 10 mins. Hope this helps others who have the same problem of the heater fan not working on number 1 - 3. The part cost 12 pound, buy second hand. The part number is 1J0 819 022 A.
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