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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    After weekend of messing about, my window is working again. But I don't think I fixed anything at all. Ok, so one of my Lupos decided recently that the passenger side electric window wasn't going to play any more. It was shut and didn't want to open. All it did is make a click sound every time I pressed the down (or up) switch. This happened with both the driver's and passenger's side window control switches. My first thought was that the Central Convenience Module (CCM) had thrown a tantrum as is so often the case in our Lupos. It affects central locking, window behaviour and interior lights (plus a few other bits). Locks were ok, as was the inside light. So I thought I'd check if I could control the windows without using the control switches- by using the door locks. There's a handy feature on all electric window Vdubs where if you want to open all the electric windows at the same time without getting into the car, you simply insert key into driver's door lock and turn it to the unlock position and hold it there for five seconds. (To close them all you lock it for 5 secs.). The driver's window opened no problem. Passenger side; Nothing. By the way, this fault is different to the really common wire rope snapping, the glass clamp breaking loose or the track or pulleys getting jammed (often caused by trying to work the windows when they've been glued shut with ice (or frost). Sticky or slow windows just need some silicone oil sprayed onto the felt window tracks to help them slide more easily. So off with the door cards. Carefully cut or peel the waterproofing membrane away from the top only (to be reused- essential!). Reach in and unplug the motor connector (not easy). Tape the glass up to the top of the door so it doesn't drop down. Reach up and slightly loosen (but don't remove) the two 10mm glass clamp bolts (also not easy). Gently unhook the plastic cable 'X' stay from the door. Unbolt the five 10mm bolts/nuts and carefully remove the entire assembly. So far all pretty standard stuff. At this point you could spend money and just get another new assembly, swap over and reassemble. The following pics I took while working show what you need to do to sort out a clicking motor that doesn't want to work. It's all basically just cleaning and testing. I pulled everything to pieces, cleaned a LOT of dust off the PCB and the two sensors, wiped bits of metal off the magnet ring and washed any carbon brush material off the PCB using brake and clutch cleaner fluid. Then put it all back together again. I couldn't find any faults. My guess is that the bits of metal stuck to the magnet ring messed with the output pulses and carbon brush dust, which conducts electricity partly shorted out the components on the PCB. The relay also appeared to work just fine- you can't test it without removing it from the PCB because 12V goes backwards into the circuit (which would damage it). Trickiest bits are unsoldering the PCB without damaging anything and then putting the brushes back in. An extra pair of hands is useful there. I suspect that during factory assembly, they use a plastic 'loading ring', sliding the rotor in place while a thin rigid plastic tube holds back the brushes. The rest of reassembly is the reverse of dismantling. The easy way out would be to simply swap the motor/gearbox over which was my first choice. But they are unique to Lupos/Arosas; I couldn't find one anywhere (for a reasonable price).
  2. 3 points
    I came across an injector cleaning by post service that I thought I would share: http://www.injectortune.co.uk/Injector_Cleaning.html I sent off my spare set of Gti injectors on Saturday and got them back special delivery Tuesday. They provide pre and post cleaning review of resistance, leak test, static and dynamic spray patterns and lastly flow: These were down on flow between 60 and 62cc after cleaning its bounced back to 66 to 67cc's - they are meant to flow 66 Also part of the service is new filters and seals - if in stock - and they return your old ones too Really pleased with the services - it seems this is a one man operation, the cost for 4 injectors and return special delivery was just short of £60
  3. 3 points
    The coilovers said they would drop a bit after settling. Seems they have settled at this height. I'm happy with this considering this was the first attempt at setting the height and I haven't touched it since.
  4. 3 points
    I'd say the colour thing is preference, for example I really dislike black cars. You justify my comment with your cunty comment.
  5. 3 points
    Some nice pictures from the trackday have come through Also, dropped the car off for a full front end respray Saturday, the stone chips were getting seriously bad so it was time to do something about it. It's then going for front end PPF (paint protection film) to try and make it last as long as possible
  6. 2 points
    Hi all, I just wanted to introduce myself to you lovely people on this forum... A long long time ago (20years or so) and in a different country (Germany), I used to own a black Lupo 1.0E with pop out rear windows (brilliant!) and I absolutely loved it. When I moved to this island, I sold the Lupo to my sister and replaced it with a 54reg Polo Sport 1.4 Tdi, which was also good fun if a bit rattly. I swapped the Polo for a 59reg Golf 1.6 Tdi bluemotion which was boring but alright because I was doing lots of boring job related miles. In March 2017 I sold the golf because the plan was that I'm gonna share the husband's Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo (He only needs a car about half of the working week, and I had a new job where I just had to go across town and no travelling for work and I was gonna cycle to work on the days he needs his car). I cycled to work once, in the dark, in the rain, up the hill and the next day I went off and bought a car. That was the first time I seriously considered buying a Lupo Gti even though I sort of always wanted one. I looked at a black one that appeared to be standard and in good nick and was advertised for £2000. (Those were the days...) It was at the other end of the country of course, so in the end I bought an 03reg BMW 318i touring. It was an absolutely terrible snotter, but I loved it. I spend many weekends and about 3 times more on parts than I spend on the actual car. That BMW finally died of cataclysmic engine failure caused by a snapped timing chain on 30th January this year. At that point I think there was only 1 Lupo Gti advertised on Autotrader and again it was over budget and far far away, so I bought a 58reg BMW 320i M-sport touring and it was weird, I somehow didn't bond with it. So I wasn't terribly upset when on the August bank holiday Madame decided that she had enough of waiting behind the bus that was stationary in her lane and crashed her Mini into the side of my BMW. Last Friday the insurance came to the conclusion that they don't want to repair the BMW and offered to put some money into my account instead. Straight onto the Autotrader website of course and there it was: A silver Lupo Gti for only a couple of hundred pounds more than what I got from the insurance and under an hour drive away. Of course I went and had a look first thing on Saturday. YC04WXY appears to be factory spec, 2 owners, 117000miles with full service history, incl. recent cam belt and water pump change. He looked (to me anyhow) very tidy and well looked after and I put down a deposit, now waiting for the Bacs payment to clear so I can go and pick him up. Here he is, still on the dealer forecourt... Okay, so the VW stickers have come off the wheels on the passenger side, there are a few unavoidable stone chip dings in the bonnet and there is a smidgen of bubblyness around the hatch handle. Of course the driver side door catch makes the typical clack clack noise and I'm hoping that the air con does just need a re-gas (I know, I know, my Polo's air con was destroyed by a stone too). However everything else seems to work and he drives beautifully, on the short(ish) test drive promising to be as much fun as expected. Since thenI have had a closer look at the MOT history and it appears that nobody bothered to do a MOT in 2017. It's 27 May 2016 then 26 April 2018. I wonder what's happened there... So, if anybody knows something about this car / has come across it before, please give me a shout, I would be very interested. Otherwise, wow I can't believe someone is still reading all the way down here and thank you for paying attention to me going on and on and on and on...
  7. 2 points
    Yesterday I gave the Lupo a good clean inside and out. So this morning I just had to take a couple of pictures because it looked so very shiny in the morning light, even though the dog was very impatient to go and run around the woods. At some point in his life it's definitely had a re-spray. There is some silver mist on the rear window seals, rear light clusters and bonnet rubber seal. So mmmmh, I do wonder what happened there?! All in all though it is looking remarkably fresh for a 16 year old car with 118000 miles on the clock. The 2 Mazda MX-5's of similar vintage I bought in July were definitely in worse shape. (However, they were also only a quarter of the price.) I've also done a temporary bodge on the broken door-strap-bracket using a M6 bolt, a washer, a bit of rawlplug, some heat shrink and a lock nut. That appears to be fairly stable, and it looks like welding the washer to the remainder of the bracket would solve the problem permanently. I am still looking into swapping the hinges for ones with integrated catch mechanism. I did have a rummage around the scrap yard and predictably they appear to be the same across the VW Audi range. I couldn't actually take one off though because of a lack on giant torx bits. Changing the cam belt and water pump is scheduled for Sunday...
  8. 2 points
    O/S window motor is 6X0 959 801 B N/S window motor is 6X0 959 802 B The motors fit all Lupo's, it's the regulators that are GTI/3L specific GTI N/S/F regulator - 6E0 837 461 B, obsolete from VW, not showing as a classic part either GTI O/S/F regulator - 6E0 837 462 B, showing as available in Germany to order Neither come with motors
  9. 2 points
    Right, I still haven't decided what to do with the door catch strap. I have been told that door hinges from an Audi A6 C6 are a straight swap, which would make the whole catch strap redundant, so I'm looking into that... In other news: Last weekend, matey next door removed his precious BMW from his garage and we had planned to do the timing belt and water pump. However as it turned out, both the water pump and timing belt kit I got from eurocarparts were wrong (I've got the right bits from VW now, so we'll do that next weekend, but grrrrr!). So instead we had a go at fixing the wipers. It looks like at some point the link from the motor to the passenger side wiper arm fell off and whoever has fixed that put it back together upside down, with the result that it caught and destroyed the plastic cover as well as working itself loose again and causing that annoying rattle I mentioned earlier. I really don't understand this sort of thing, as it was immediately apparent that it's supposed to go the other way round, before I even looked in the book. Speaking of things I don't understand: I also fixed the 3rd brake light. Fixed in this case means re-connected the 3rd brake light. When I took the spoiler off, besides a thriving ecosystem, I found the wires for the 3rd brake light loose inside the boot lid, without the plug of course. So, I cleaned everything up, checked if the actual light unit works (yes), soldered on a new plug (I've found one that fits in the random-electricals-box, yay!) and put everything back together. This sort of thing also makes me doubt the validity of at least the latest MOT test. Surely that's at least an advisory?! I wonder what I will discover next... All in all though I'm in love with my little Lupo. It's hilariously good fun to drive. It's almost comical to see the gap to the car behind if I'm in pole 1st away from traffic lights. It makes a delicious growly noise when I stamp on the throttle. And I'm annoying people in Focus ST's and Audi A3's who completely underestimate how quick the little thing is. Mwahaha!
  10. 2 points
    I have a need to tell everyone to not even attempt to change the alternator in an SDI. At least not without taking the engine out. There is no job more difficult. On any car. Any model. If you have a need to change the alternator, I'd suggest you get some unsuspecting garage to do it for £75 plus parts (or whatever regular alternator swap price they charge). You even need to change the oil and drain the coolant. And remove the cam belt. And air filter. And both front wheels. And power steering system. I was thinking about doing a how-to. Nope, not happening. Get someone else to change the thing for you. There, I've said it. I now can go and chill. Grrr. 😡
  11. 2 points
    You should be telling her what's happening.
  12. 2 points
    😁Hello after lurking on the site for a over a year I have now a Lupo.Japan import 79k all belts and pulleys done.All stock and staying as is.I live one mile from work so I’m keeping the car hopefully 15 years,can anyone tell me how to set the clock? The car was on piston heads for about 9 months! Here are a few pictures.
  13. 2 points
    The easiest way 'apparently', to upgrade it is to simply nick all the bits off a golf or bora 1.9 engine- if you want to keep the same engine number (for insurance reasons). Like you say, it is the exact same 1.9 block, with different bits bolted on and a different crank. A strong little engine, capable of at least 150hp.
  14. 2 points
    Thank you Silver, never thought one of my post would make it to such heady heights 😎 Ian
  15. 2 points
    Finally done it!😁😎 The procedure didn't start too well, could I get the steering wheel off, yes but after nearly an hour! My problem was the centre boss with the air bag would not come away, I'd love to tell you about some magical way that I finally discovered, but there wasn't one, just plain old perseverance and a load of swearing. Wheel outer came off easily to reveal this (1st photo, sorry I've forgotten how to insert pics) Next round of swearing! I had to buy a new three legged puller ready for this, it refused to work, the toes were too rounded to get enough purchase upon the collar, the lip can't be 2mm deep, I tried all sorts to get it to work but it wasn't having it. In the end I resorted to using a 4" pair of mole grips (rounded jaws) wound as tight as possible onto the collar behind the lip and the using the puller with just two legs. I think I got lucky here and off the collar came (pics 2 &3). I removed the interference fit screw, same 4" mole grips, and with a good bit of wiggling the barrel came off (pic4) this revealed the fixing for the switch (pic5). It may well be that it might just be possible to undo that bolt (note: it is a small cross-headed bold and not a screw) from behind, you can see a channel in the barrel casting leading to the bolt, it's a hindsight thing and frankly I'm not convinced it'll work as I seem to remember that it's in at a bit of an angle. Anyway that's it, I put the new switch in, refitted the barrel, replaced a minimum of wires, reconnected the battery and she fire up first ask! Hope this is of use to someone? I'll rename this thread to 'fitting new ignition, switch 2000 Lupo' if I can if not can I get an admin to do it for me please? Any question please don't hesitate to ask, unless you're going to ask me to do it for you, then please hesitate at length! Ian
  16. 2 points
    The ALD engine doesn't have EGR. First check the ignition on cylinder 4. It would be useful if you posted the errors as given by the tester.
  17. 2 points
    If you get 4k for that let me know and I'll sell mine. Cheers.
  18. 2 points
    Hi guys mk2 etc. luppy hit 20 years old passed delayed mot no problems x I just wanted to thank all you guys over the years for all all your help and knowledge to keep my baby on the road xx
  19. 2 points
    This is only a guide on how I did it, I take no responsibility if you damage your car or harm yourself in any way doing this. My lupo is 2003 and has no aircon. Got my radiator from eurocarparts as online you have 5 different options. Here’s the rad code I had. I’m not sure if it’s still the oem radiator. Might as well put a new thermostat in whilst you’re at it. I ordered one with the housing that connects to the radiator hose as apparently they are prone to breaking. MK2 suggested flushing it with dishwasher tablets as the system was oily so I did it 6 times. Dissolved a tablet, put fresh water in with it, ran the car for 20 minutes, waited til it hit about 50c on my obd scanner(can buy them for 20 quid on eBay) and drained all the water. I’d then wait about 30 mins until it said 30c before flushing it with a hosepipe. You don’t want to put cold water into a hot engine! It cleared up all the oil too. Top tip, remove the thermostat for a better flush experience. I also assume that you have knowledge on flushing an engine. For the thermostat, I’ll add some pics with instructions to this thread once my new one comes. Tools needed 10mm socket with a driver and an extension 8mm socket for thermostat housing torque bits(unsure on size) flat screwdriver pipe pliers( to remove the horrible spring clips from the hoses) New antifreeze Remove these Then wrap some tape around a flat screwdriver to pry out the indicator grill cover. The little white plastic rivet things might break so have some spare ones if you can. Once you’ve popped both sides, gently pull it out and use the screwdriver to push out the plastic tabs all along the bumper and the top. You’ll see them from above once you start pulling them off. Also unscrew the indicator bulbs to get it off completely. It’s easier to unscrew them as opposed to getting the clip off the bulb. it should leave you with this Undo the three supports and pull them back. Someone grinded mine off in the middle. Once you’ve done this, you’ll have space to pull out the radiator. Now we’ll go and disconnect the radiator from the cover and hoses. Use the 10mm socket to remove the fan as it’s easier to get to the hoses that way. If yours are like mine and the bottom bolt is rusted on and just turns, remove only the top two and tie it to the left of you. Remove the fan plug and the radiator temp sensor plug too. You’ll need to pry off the metal bracket on the fan plug with a flat screwdriver, it should then just slide out. We’ll remove the hoses now whilst the radiator is still bolted in. Make sure it’s not hot or you’ll burn yourself. whilst I was doing this I disconnected the overflow bottle, tied off the bottom feed and put some degreaser with boiling water in. Left it for the duration of me fitting the radiator then flushed it with a hosepipe for ten minutes. Now that you removed the pipes with the pipe pliers, there are 4 10mm bolts to remove. Your radiator will now slide out of the front where the brackets are. Make sure you take it easy so you don’t damage the new one going in. If your radiator is brand new, screw the bolts in halfway as it needs to cut a new thread into the plastic and it’s a pain when the radiator is already in the car. Remove them and then install the radiator. You can also remove the fan temp sensor and install it to the new one whilst it’s out. Everything is now in reverse. Put the new one in, bolt it in and connect the bottom hose. Bolt the fan back in, plug the fan and the sensor in. Before you put in the new thermostat or attach the top radiator hose, start filling the top rad hose until coolant starts coming out of the top of the radiator. Connect the top rad hose, install the thermostat, connect the hose at the bottom of the overflow tank and fill that up to the maximum level. Make sure all is connected and start the car with the coolant cap off. Once the thermostat opens, you might have to add more coolant and keep a close eye on the cars temperature. Once you see the coolant circulating and it doesn’t want more, close the cap to pressurise the system and check for leaks. Your coolant light might start flashing, if it doesn’t want any more coolant, switch the car off and on to reset the coolant light. Now keep an eye on the system. You’ll see steam from the radiator, this is normal as we’ve spilled coolant and water all over. The fan should come on at 96c. If you haven’t got the obd diagnostic tool, you won’t know but wait til the fan comes on and the temperature is stable for about 20 minutes. If so, put the grill back on and go for a test drive. Hope this helps at least one person.
  20. 2 points
    Hi Everyone just thought I’d say hello.. I’ve picked up an accident damaged Lupo GTI today on a 52 plate. with only 1 owner from new having covered 63k miles (you might have seen it advertised on eBay) As you can see it needs various front end parts which I’ve managed to mostly source (even the headlight!) however I could do with a O/S wing if anyone has one let me know! Comes with the original documentation, service books and maunuals from new, it even has all 3 keys (1 plastic) so, once repaired it should be a nice appreciating modern classic.. Thanks for reading! simon
  21. 2 points
    400 000 Km (250 000 mi) and counting. 😉
  22. 2 points
    SDI uses 5W40 or 10W40 with VW 501 01/505 00 spec
  23. 2 points
    Hi Just wanted to share this ..After nearly a year ... it’s had a good polish. I was pleased. With how it shines up !
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    What does everyone think of the drop?
  26. 2 points
    My 2005 Laser Blue Gti 💓
  27. 2 points
    Update since Feb. Fixed another set of small yet annoying issues. Steering Column was loose and make a bit of a "clunking" feeling when turning, turns out this was the column not being held tightly by the bolt that holds it to the chassis. Tightened this and all is well. Door check strap replaced Rear brakes stripped and rebuilt to stop them binding. All heater controls now working properly as they should. Full service Cambelt & Water pump change. Finally ordered some new wheels after deciding a refurb of the Bathursts wasn't worth it given the condition they were in. They should be here this week. The car is having a full respray next week to sort out all of the scratches and dents over the car, hopefully after then it should be pretty much perfect.
  28. 2 points
    Update Time So car went into the garage. They inspected the pedal box and he said all looked good to him, he thinks it might have been replaced already, he said something along the lines of the bolts looks like they have been out already. So for him no point replacing the box just yet, so that's very honest of them. Secondly, i had the clutch cable checked over and adjusted, they got rid of the slack for me and so the car feels better when operating the clutch, Thirdly, they did a mini inspection and found a few niggles which i had already identified, the tracking is out causing some inner wear on my nearly bald tyres, and the front, rear bushings for the front triangle bit (forget the name) need looking at in the near future. So i will get them ordered and swapped out before the MOT. Theres a slight blow in the exhaust coming from the mid section which has had a dodgey weld repair before, so could get it welded or might treat the old girl to a full system, that way i can be sure of no leaks in the years to come. Lastly, the best news of all... After all the time i tried to diagnose the engine light and changing the sensor, all it needed was 15mins of the right pair of hands, to figure out it was a crappy wire, so fixed that up, connected back into the plug and bam engine light gone... but best of all.. the insane amount of power is back haha! Pulls so well in all gears now!! Im so happy and only cost £100. Looking forward to ordering a few new parts, Exciting times! Long live my Lupo
  29. 2 points
    After testing all our skills in sanding, filling, painting and laquering a black indicator panel and then building broken the support brackets from plastic, glue and nuts/bolts this morning we have: Its still not 100%, but once the local breakers yeard opens up, i will find the parts i need. It does look better though! All credit to my daughter who has learnt the fine art of painting and sanding....
  30. 2 points
    So seeing as we are finallly allowed to go for a drive, i've been making the most of it recently. I went for a bit of a blast last night with a mate in his Clio 200, they are very well matched on the road, his is more setup for track so a bit too stiff for the roads. Straight line performance they are exactly the same! We've booked a trackday at Snett for 4th June also Would of been rude not to take a few pictures
  31. 2 points
    Some more from today. There are some scratches and blemishes that it's going into the paint shop for in a couple of weeks and the wheels are being refurbed.
  32. 2 points
    Well I replaced the seal today and so far so good. Apart from being a bit of a faff to get the old one out it went pretty well. Shaft looked ok too so I greased the new seal up and knocked it in square with a socket. I'll see how it goes when it's warmed up as that's when it seems to drop the most oil but for now I'm happy. Thanks everyone for your help so far
  33. 2 points
    Thought I'd finally add the "how-to" which people keep asking about.... Old EGR systems jam up or just don't work once the car is over about 50k miles or 10 years. The soot builds up and mixes with oil blow by droplets/fumes which mix together to form a sticky, gungy mess that is very difficult to shift (inside the engine). The backs of inlet valves get coated and coked up and inlet ducts get smaller and smaller reducing air flow. In a diesel engine, less air means less power. Also lots of hardened crud builds up right around the injector nozzles affecting the spray pattern. And because the ECU has no idea that the engine is clogged up, it still delivers the same quantity of fuel as if the car were brand new. So with excess fuel and not much air, the emissions suffer terribly, resulting in even more soot and lots of smoke from the exhaust. Clogging up the oxidising catalyst and subsequently an MOT fail. Even fitting a brand new air filter just before MOT time doesn't help, to try and suck in that last bit of fresh air. There are three different solutions to get the car running like new again- 1. Clean out the inlet system and decoke the cylinder head. Fit a brand new EGR valve. (BTW cellulose thinners works best to remove the black goop) or 2. Clean out the inlet system- if you really want to- and disconnect the two vacuum hoses to the choke flap and EGR valve. That will help improve the system a lot. (block the vacuum pipes so nothing gets sucked in) or 3. Clean out the inlet system, block off the EGR system, plug the exhaust gas inlet ducts to make the air flow more laminar, disconnect the choke flap vacuum pipe and divert the low oxygen sump gases away from the inlet. (my favourite solution for 15% more power and phenominal MPG). Pics follow:
  34. 2 points
    LOL! Maybe we just have our own own names for everything... I suppose if everyone understands each other who cares. I thought that a drive flange is the flat bit that a wheel or inner CV attaches to with bolts. As in it "flanges out". What do I know? The knee bone is connected to the hip bone. The hip bone is connected to...
  35. 2 points
    I do love my SDIs. Yesterday I did 320 miles on half a tank. Phone playing all my fav tunes and heating on just right. Cruising along the motorways enjoying the scenery. The best bit- I know there aren't many cars that cost that little to own per mile (including everything)
  36. 2 points
    These are the ball joints: 93-90973-156 & 93-90973-256, I ordered through autodoc.
  37. 2 points
    Not much up an update as i keep forgetting to take photos, but. The car is back from the body shop and all back together Got the aftermarket ball joists all fitted and seem like the right fit! ive made up a fibreglass bootlid with integrated boot hinge mounts which needs a lick of paint and will be able to be thrown on the car. I managed to get a Dbilas Dynamic intake manifold, which ive gold tape wrapped and fitted with a thermo spacer intake gasket to try and keep the intake temperatures down (the exhaust up to the 2nd cat has also had exhaust wrap on it). Ive had to re-route my induction kit also. The project silver top mounts id fitted developed a knock after the crash so i have reverted to standard for now. Polycarb windows are in also to replace the smashed ones. The tailgate window and right rear quarter window will need to be done after the next rally. Both seat mounts have had to be replaced as these got pretty bent up in the crash also. Next event is the Bovington stages at the end of the month so will update again after that.
  38. 2 points
    This is a good site I use... https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/search.html?damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&isSearchRequest=true&makeModelVariant1.makeId=25200&makeModelVariant1.modelId=21&scopeId=C&sfmr=false&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&sortOption.sortOrder=ASCENDING
  39. 2 points
    There's more to life than mpg....
  40. 2 points
    Their the puppies i got to, hopefully they work!
  41. 2 points
    I'm biased. Mk2 is IMO the best car ever made. Sure there are lots of compromises, but taking everything into account it wins. Noisy. Yes. Uncomfortable. Yes. Economical. No. Simple. Yes. Reliable. Kind of. Fun. Sort of. Easy to maintain and repair. Yes. Well made. Absolutely. Do they last. Yes. 30 years old now and neglected cars that occasionally pop up on ebay are still running (just). You can't say that for just about any other car. 👍🏻 I have more than one Lupo however....
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Give it some shell v power a shot of redex blow all the cobwebs away and enjoy.
  44. 1 point
    Any feedback welcomed. What would you like to see in the next one?
  45. 1 point
    Could be a clogged up injector - try swapping cylinder 4 injector with another and see if the misfire moves to that cylinder Take care re-inserting injector into fuel rail - they don't go all the way in - the clip limits its height Edit : those injector seals look really crusty, probably could do with a clean and lube with thin smear of vaseline
  46. 1 point
    Hi I am new member in this forum and want to welcome to all members of this forum. Thanks
  47. 1 point
    This is my missus 1.4 16v 75bhp lupo . It was completely standard when we got it and done all the work myself . Thanks . Dave
  48. 1 point
    That will be fine - thanks for checking.
  49. 1 point
    Here you go - was going to say the bolts don’t stick out much at all, 2mm at most:
  50. 1 point
    That is green? Must be the lighting... or I am loosing my sight?
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