lupo 1.7sdi

I only used OEM G50 (this is written in manual) and I haven't had any problems with the box so far. Now the mileage is about 400k km (so about 250k miles) and I did the first oil change at about 200k km. I've changed it two or three times until now, I don't remember exactly. In general, the gearboxes on the Lupo/Arosa wich are type 085 were filled with G50 except for the gearboxes that equipped the 1.4 74kw engines that require G51. Now VW recommend another type G052178A2 but I didn't trust him. Here is a discussion about this problem. If you'll decide to use an aftermarket oil, be sure to use a GL4 or GL4 +, in no case GL5.

It is not easy to remove the oil seal. for this you need one or two thin screwdrivers (about 2mm in diameter), very sharp and hard (the oil seal has a metal ring under the plastic cover, a ring that must be perforated to hang and remove the oil seal). Basic rules: - Must not scratch the shaft (wrap thin layer of insulation tape around shaft). If this happens it will leak permanently. - Fill space between sealing lip and dust lip with grease - Do not touch the screw B. if necessary mark its position, otherwise you will need adjusting selector mechanism Selector finger

Definitely not ignition on, before removing the plug from the ECU remove the minus terminal from the battery . Basically you measure the continuity of some wires not the functioning of a component

AUX doesn't exist. Maybe AUC. 20Nm

Sorry, it is the expression of manual. Not at the same time but one at a time you have to be careful, it's irreversible

Also check this for EGR error Check wiring between test box and connector for open circuit using current flow diagram. Contact 1+ socket 1 + 2 Contact 2+ socket 61 Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ω Additionally check wires for short to one another, to vehicle earth and to battery positive. Specification: ∞ω For this check (and the following) you must have access to the ECU socket. Remove the cover marked with the red arrow and then pull the plug by pulling in the direction of the arrows EGR can be visually checked if it works: when you accelerate strongly you can see how the rod moves With the blue arrow I marked the flap on the intake that is not related to the error on the EGR, but works with it and may be to blame for the lack of power. Remove the inlet pipe and observe the flap: engine stopped: the flap must be wide open engine start/idle: the flap must be closed and after about 10 minutes idling without touching the acceleration will open ( to close again you have to drive at higher speeds ) engine accelerated at over 3000 rpm: the flap must be wide open This is the correct behavior of this flap

Compilation: Autodata and ElsaWin Sorry, I do not know what does not work for you, but I made some screen shoots

Below you have the wiring diagram and the configuration of the ECU socket AKU-Diagram.pdf For P0489 error If the specification is not obtain Check wiring between test box and connector for open circuit using current flow diagram. Contact 1+ socket 1 + 2 Contact 2+ socket 61 Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ω Additionally check wires for short to one another, to vehicle earth and to battery positive. Specification: ∞ω For P0216 error Remove injection pump socket (arrow) Check: For 0113 error

common to all errors (except N109) are: relay 109 and fuse 23 (5A) also check the ECU socket and injection pump socket

Remove securing bolts -arrows- press the clamps marked with the yellow arrow with a screwdriver and take additional brake light out upwards Pull off connector (blue arrow)

I have attached the gear selector adjustment procedure. You need a pdf viewer. adjusting gear selector.pdf

Maybe it helps you rear bumper 1.pdf rear bumper 2.pdf rear bumper 3.pdf

If the 1.0 engine has AHT code you can use its engine mounts, unless you will use the mounts of AVY engine

S2 M8