lupo 1.7sdi

I don't have one either, but neither in Autodata nor in ElsaWin (I consulted both the electrical diagram and the assembly diagram of the fuel tank) I couldn't find the fuel pump. Anyway, it needs to be clarified whether the spark plug light comes on or not when the ignition is turned on when it doesn't start. A diagnosis would be very useful.

It has glow plugs (the radiator you see under the car is a cooler, not a heater). They play a role in starting the engine easily at temperatures below 5° Celsius. If the engine is ok, it starts without glow plugs even below this temperature, but more difficult. Be careful with one aspect: the glow plug indicator light has other roles besides signaling the operation of the glow plugs. When you turn on the ignition, it must light up briefly even if the coolant temperature is high enough so that it is not necessary to use the spark plugs. If it does not light up briefly, it means that the ECU is not getting power (if you have a tester, you will notice that it cannot connect to the ECU) and implicitly the fuel pump will not work either. However, from my knowledge, the 1.4TDI does not have a fuel pump in the tank, so you do not hear much. But even if the glow plug indicator light does not light up, the starter should turn over, it has nothing to do with the ECU.

If the glow plug light does not appear when the ignition is turned on (even for a very short time) then the problem is strictly electrical (the ECU is not being powered).

No, under no circumstances should you remove the headlight. Behind the headlight there is a black cover (item 3 in the picture below). Remove this cover (it is held in place by a clamp, and at the bottom it has two guides, when installing you first fix these guides in place) Then proceed as described in the picture below

The only reason that warning appears is the km (miles) since the last reset. This car does not have sensors that measure oil quality/quantity or anything else that would cause that warning to appear.

In most cases, the low beam of the bulb burns out, never both phases. At least for me it was like that every time, normal since I mainly use the low beam. I think this should be checked first, especially if you don't remember when you changed this bulb. I myself was not able to change the bulb on this side without moving the battery to one side, it simply doesn't fit my hand so I dismantle the brake that holds the battery and the negative terminal to have easier access.

If the bulb is ok, check the socket. It is possible that it is oxidized and no longer makes contact. A few weeks ago I replaced the socket on one of the bulbs for the same reason (the wires were very oxidized and made contact when they wanted to)

That's exactly what happened to me a few days ago. The drains in the compartment under the windshield (where the cabin filter and ECU are located) were clogged. The drains are in the corners on the left and right towards the front. They are unblocked with a thicker wire. Inserted there, it must reach the wing area. I was really wondering why water appears under the car when the weather was good. The drains were not completely clogged and when they were completely clogged, I had exactly the same experience as you: after a few km of driving, water appeared on the passenger side.

Here on the forum you can't attach documents to a private message, so I'm sending you some screenshots. These are the instructions from the repair manual, I don't know any more.

When checking the continuity of the wires, the ignition should not be turned on and it would be better if the battery was not connected either. The battery is connected and the ignition is turned on only when checking the voltages. I know it's a challenge to access things in that area, I changed a relay once and it was very difficult (lots of short wires) Unfortunately I don't know what the plug looks like to give you any guidance, if you had a picture it would be helpful I have attached a document with how to remove the relay board. AKU RELEE.pdf

That's ok, it means the earth connections are ok This is not ok. Do the following steps: - check fuse no. 37 - if fuse 37 is ok check the continuity between pin 2 and one of the ends of the fuse (if you can see where the black/white wire is, if you can't see the color of the wires then there should be continuity between pin 2 and one of the ends of the fuse. If there is no continuity, you must check if there is continuity between pin 2 and pin 4 of the red 10-pin connector under the relay support. If there is continuity here, you must check if there is continuity between this pin 4 and the fuse. - if there is continuity between pin 2 and fuse 37, you must check if there is continuity between the other end of fuse 37 and pin 87 of relay 109 Check up to here and then we'll see further Attach a needle to the multimeter probe

There is a screw there with two brown wires attached to it. These are the wires that go to pins 4 and 5 of the ECU.

As I wrote, the tests are done with the ECU plug removed, so the ECU is disconnected/unpowered. The second mandatory condition is that the tests be done when the car does not start.

I found a diagram with the pin numbering

It is the wire that goes from pin 87 of relay 109 to pins 1 and 2 of the ECU connector. The measurements I described above will show if the problem is in this area. I'm attaching the wiring diagram just in case. AKU flow diagram.pdf You need a screwdriver bent at 90 degrees and the airbag is removed quite easily.

After removing the connectors from the ECU, proceed as follows (as a precaution when removing/inserting the connectors, remove the negative battery terminal): - clean the contacts with contact spray (use a dedicated spray, nothing else) - identify the pin numbering in the connector. At the moment I don't have a numbering diagram, I hope the pins are numbered right on the connector. - reconnect the negative battery terminal - with a multimeter, check the resistance between the negative battery terminal and pins 4 and 5 of the ECU connector. It should be very low, around 1 ohm - check with a multimeter the voltage between the negative battery terminal and pin 37 of the ECU connector. It should be equal to the battery voltage.It is a permanent voltage regardless of whether the ignition is on or off. - turn on the ignition and check with a multimeter the voltage between the negative battery terminal and pin 1 and 2 of the ECU connector. It should be equal to the battery voltage. Depending on the results of these checks, we can isolate the area where the interruption could be.

I think so. That's the expression used in the manual. Tomorrow I'll look to see if there's any connection to earth there. Normally there should be. The ECU plugs should also be inspected. To remove the plugs, there's a lever at the end of each one that you have to pull. Likewise when you put the plugs back in, after you fit them together while pressing on the plug you have to press on those levers. If you've ever had clogged drains and water sitting there, there may be problems in that area.

When the engine doesn't start, does the spark plug light come on briefly when you turn on the ignition? I see that in the video it doesn't come on. If it doesn't come on and the diagnostics can't connect to the ECU then the problem is strictly related to the ECU power supply and has nothing to do with any sensor or Immo. Possible causes: fuses, imperfect contacts, wiring, relay (here the solder joints on the back of the board must also be checked) or even a defective ECU. You need a multimeter to find the cause. If you have one I'll tell you what to measure.

Relay.pdf

It cannot be removed from the inside, only from the outside as I presented above.

The spark plug light also indicates that the ECU is getting power. If it does not come on for a short time when you turn on the ignition, it means that the ECU is not getting power and will not start. When this light flashes, it indicates an electrical problem, as @mk2 said, and then a tester must be connected to the car and the error codes read (be careful that if the spark plug light does not come on, the tester cannot connect to the ECU either) It is possible that there is an imperfect contact somewhere. Check the relay 109 connection to the body (in plenum clamber) and the lamellar fuses on the battery (they must not be oxidized and make good contact).

If when it doesn't start the spark plug light doesn't come on for a short time when you turn on the ignition then the problem is electrical (no power to the ECU) and most of the time the fault is relay 109, but it could also be an imperfect contact elsewhere. It has nothing to do with the crankshaft sensor or the fuel supply or the shut off valve on the pump or other mechanical problems. It is strictly a problem with the ECU power supply. To check: - relay 109 - connection to the body (in plenum chamber) - the condition of fuses 37 under the steering wheel and fuse 2 on the battery (the second lamellar fuse from the left)

If it's not too late. See to it that you have prepared a funnel inserted into a hose to collect the antifreeze

Yes, the battery needs to be moved, otherwise there's no way.

I chose Kayaba for both springs and shock absorbers. They have a pretty good price-quality ratio. I'm happy with them. Of course there are other brands that are ok.