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99hjhm
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I'm confused as to why flipping the rods would improve bump steer? I would really like to know the theory behind this please?

OK.

The idea is that on factory suspension the tie rods will be more or less parallel with the road, when you lower the car they end up pointing upwards. This means on bump the trackrods ettectivly shorten giving you toe out. returning them to parallel in theory keeps them in the best position to minimise bump steer during suspension travel... You can only minimise it, not remove it.

Really this needs testing on a bump steer gauge, but you need to take the springs and ARB out for that.

The other thing I would like to have is ball joint extenders, that would correct the angle of the bottom arm which is also pointing up after the car is lowered. (Really they need to be pointing down a little as this gives more negative camber on compression.) Sadly this can't be done due to the ball joint design... Increasing the length would bring the ball joint into contact with the brake disc.

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Could you not have just swapped the tie rods side to side when you flipped them?

You don't use your back wiper much do you1

I swapped the track rod ends side to side to keep the algnment with the rack in the same place. The track/tie rods themselves are different lengths I think, so can't be swapped. It might be pulled apart and put back the other way round if it doesn't work, i bought some spare collars just incase.

No I don't use the rear wiper, might scratch the glass. :lol:

Looking into a custom induction install at the moment, with remote filter rather than having it on top of the engine. See how it goes. B)

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Do you have a set of mats over the top of your mats to stop them from getting dirty? :lol:

Yes. :coffee:

Yeah that's what I meant. You wrote tie rods so I just copied :lol:

Why did you have to modify the collars? Are they different side to side?

P.S. My glass is already scratched :(

The hubs are tapered for the track rod ends, I drilled the hubs out and the collar reverses the taper.....

250-dscf0330.jpg

The hub was a total dog to drill, being forged steel, got there in the end. Trackrods are now parallel but I'm very unsure it will handle right. Don't know if you don't try, it's easilly reverseable and the collars are not expensive.

The ideal kit would be the Compbrake rose jointed kit, but rose joints wear out pretty quick and the kit's expensive.

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Didn't realise the hubs were tapered. So if you put it back to how it was you'll have to keep the collars, but flip them over when you swap the track rod ends back around?

Well I dare say you're the first to do this on a lupo, UK at least anyway. Well done for trying, lets see if it makes a difference :shades:

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Didn't realise the hubs were tapered. So if you put it back to how it was you'll have to keep the collars, but flip them over when you swap the track rod ends back around?

Well I dare say you're the first to do this on a lupo, UK at least anyway. Well done for trying, lets see if it makes a difference :shades:

Yes the collars are part of the car from now on, hopefully they will stay in the hub if I ever swap a track rod end, or swap it round if it all doesn't work out, probably wreck them getting them out mind.

Got another shot of the tope eye cover from further back?

Nope, but when I get the other cover done, I'll get you a pic.

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car looks amazing James, excellent work as always!

Cheers Alex.

Great work, looking as good as ever. :)

Not a fan of the toy eyes though.

haha... No worries Ben, knew you wouldn't like them, only done short term so I don't have to pay for paint.

evertime i see that steering wheel i realise how perfectly it suits the lupo :shades:

Its not overley thick, or has too many buttons etc. perfect!

Mikey

It has crossed my mind to upgrade to the Mk6 one, but i think this one suits better. :)

Can't believe I've missed this thread! Great work so far! ;)

Is that a Polo rear badge?

Thanks. B)

Sharran mate, Google Sharran badge, you will find the part number.

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OK.

The idea is that on factory suspension the tie rods will be more or less parallel with the road, when you lower the car they end up pointing upwards. This means on bump the trackrods ettectivly shorten giving you toe out. returning them to parallel in theory keeps them in the best position to minimise bump steer during suspension travel... You can only minimise it, not remove it.

Really this needs testing on a bump steer gauge, but you need to take the springs and ARB out for that.

The other thing I would like to have is ball joint extenders, that would correct the angle of the bottom arm which is also pointing up after the car is lowered. (Really they need to be pointing down a little as this gives more negative camber on compression.) Sadly this can't be done due to the ball joint design... Increasing the length would bring the ball joint into contact with the brake disc.

Thanks for the reply, I learnt a lot from that!

Keep up the good work!

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Good to know, but I won't be changing mine for a while ;)

What other plans have you got for yours?

haha.... A few. :D

Need to get some paint work done if I get accepted for Ultimate Dubs, then get the rear seats trimmed to match the fronts.

Other than that... I need the tyres taken off my BBS RC's and sent them away for a refurb if I wasn't sat at home ill. :(

Want to add some more castor to the front suspension, probably through adjustable top mounts.

Got another starter motor to fit

Repaint some brackets in the engine bay

Paint and refit my new adjustable short shift.

Custom induction system, using 63 or stainless tube all TIG welded, remote filter, probably repositioning the breather catch tank.

Janspeed exhaust

4-1 manifold, 100 cell race cat.

Get some 305mm Seat Ibiza brake discs to try.

Refit the undertray around the lower tie bar.

powder coat seat frames.

Show plates

New plate surrounds

Stubby drivers mirror

New LF ABS sensor.(Again)

Long list, but I'm not in a rush.

Edited by 99hjhm
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haha, doesn't all have to be done for then.

Flipping the tie rods didn't work, so going back to standard now. :lol: Won't find these things out unless you try sometimes. :blush:

Ordered all the stainless tube and silicone hose for my induction set up. Not cheap but should look mint.

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What do you mean by 'didn't work' exactly?

It increased bumpsteer, probably in the other direction, can't be bothered checking... flipping the trackrod end was too much of an adjustment. Only a waste of £7.50 for the collars.

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It increased bumpsteer, probably in the other direction, can't be bothered checking... flipping the trackrod end was too much of an adjustment. Only a waste of £7.50 for the collars.

Oh riiiight okay fair enough. Argh well...good on you for trying it out!

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Ive been messing my pants over this thread for about 20 minutes now, great work dude.

Loving the carbon covered stuff, given me some good ideas ;)

IMHO though...the LCR Splitter being ripped off was the best thing that could have happened, no need for a splitter on the loop, they look amazing just the way they are :)

Well done tho man :)

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