Jump to content

Casper's Supercharged GTi - MK Indy Hayabusa Turbo - 413bhp/243ftlb


CasperGTI
 Share

Recommended Posts

Is that the famous bag of tools I see??? :)

Lucky you found it before it did any real damage, amazing how small the bearings are when you consider the speed and life. What ratio does the charger run at.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bearing sourced.... Going to take 2 weeks for it to arrive though!

Lots of phone calls to get one, but finally i think ive got it sussed. There is barely any places in the UK that rebuild these chargers to the extent of changing these bearings. Hopefully ive found the right bearing!

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a lurker, rather than a 'poster' on Club lupo, threads like these cause me all sorts of bother, cos I end up reading them from start to finish and it ends up at silly o'clock and now I've drunk all the beer I was saving for tomorrow... :lol:

I've built a few things in the past, but nothing like this, you sir, you are an inspiration to us all and shows what can be done when you put your mind to it (the matter of fact way that you stripped it all down to sort the rings was mind boggling :o )

I really, truly hope that when you sort it, nothing else goes wrong for a very long, long time, so you can spend time wearing the tyres out at a frightening rate!!

What a cracking car...

Edited by Blah blah
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Well not much of an update. But some information really about the Eaton M45 form the mini.

The original unit form eaton uses a Cup type roller bearing such as this:

rotorbearings.JPG

Now i originally bought these thinking that these are the bearings, as they are fitted to the m45 units used in other cars usch as the SLK 230 i think it is and other merc kompressor engines.

Sems that BMW actually had the M45 unit re-designed for them, and a stronger bearing was used, which is found in the M112 (fooking huge). which is a through beaing, meaning the shaft actually comes out of the back of the bearing which is how they use the shaft to run the mini's water pump. The bearings look like this:

FC112.JPG

Sadly there $50 a set, compared to the $20 for the others.

Suppose ive learnt alot about this now, and this will hopefully help anyone out in the long run when theres goes wrong.

Just in the process of getting hold of another 5th gen charger too, which are like rocking horse ****! Going to work on porting and polishing that one, rebuild it and change it over!! - more boost!

So hopefully in 2 weeks i will have two working chargers!

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some grease that smells like aids for the bearings, a long life grease.

Personally im not going to be using it, it much rather use some of the bearing greases from work, Clay based with lithium thickener. Used on our wheel bearings, and there subject to a fair ammount of heat! and loads will make the rebuild nice and smooth.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cant help it, even earlier i was making my exhaust heat shield, Which is coming together pretty nicely now, Just need to wirelock it round the manifold and make two support brackets for the bottom and ti should be there.

Once a project.... Always a project.

Wait untill i move on to the interior!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi!

I'm Matthew from Hungary! I have also big problems whit my bearings. I sould change them but i dont knows the part number of it. They are from INA. I have an M45 of the miniCooper S on my '90 VW Polo G40, so I have the same bearings like that one on the second photo. Can you tell me the part number or type number or something else that I can order it from INA?

Thank's: Metthew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi!

I'm Matthew from Hungary! I have also big problems whit my bearings. I sould change them but i dont knows the part number of it. They are from INA. I have an M45 of the miniCooper S on my '90 VW Polo G40, so I have the same bearings like that one on the second photo. Can you tell me the part number or type number or something else that I can order it from INA?

Thank's: Metthew

INA do not produce the bearings for the charger anymore, which is why they are so hard to get now.

The bearing for the mini cooper S charger are the same bearings as in the M112.

Best place to get them is from america.

Speak to chris at rolling performance (worldwidebc @ verizon.net) and ask about the bearings for the M45 for the mini part number: #FC112RBRG he will sort you out postage for the bearings no problems as he has done for me.

You can get them from here: http://www.rollingperformance.com/rotorbearings.htm

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Bearings finally arrived yesterday, so popped them in the freezer overnight to fit them.

Better than the last one, well whats left of it

P1040153.jpg

Blowtorch on the casing to get it to expand, and then pressed it in, which was a right nightmare. Then fitted the charger back together and filled it up with oil with mobilube SHC, relubricated the bearings, nicely packed. From moving it by hand its loads better, so hopefully ive given it a new lease of life.

P1040141.jpg

P1040143.jpg

P1040152.jpg

P1040148.jpg

Got my heat shield and made an exhaust manifold shield.

P1040155.jpg

P1040137.jpg

P1040140.jpg

P1040139.jpg

Heat proof material for the bottom of the charger too. Need to get as protection as possible.

P1040154-1.jpg

Charger back in tomorrow, then will run it for a bit before putting the water jacket on and painting it to make sure its all alright.

Then water jacket back on, give it a new coat of paint and then back on the rollers to play with the ignition timing to find a bit more power.

Once a project, always a project.

John

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got it all back together today!

It sounds alot better, the charger does not clatter like it used to. And once the piston slap dies down after a minute or two when cold it actually sounds alright!

Put the heat shield and locked it on, going to have to tighten it down again as i have a small vibration at a set RPM at the moment. Made a spacer to get the charger a bit higher

P1040162.jpg

P1040159.jpg

Took off the water pump plate and made a blanking plate for it to make it a bit quieter.

P1040170.jpg

P1040168.jpg

Then covered the bottom of the charger in this heat wrap, It has worked really well. Had the car running for 15mins at idle and i could still touch the charger at the bottom, so the heat shielding is workign well.

P1040172.jpg

P1040173.jpg

P1040174.jpg

P1040176.jpg

P1040179.jpg

P1040181.jpg

P1040182.jpg

P1040185.jpg

The charger opearting temp is about 80-90 degrees without the water jacket so thats a problem at the moment.

Only issue i have is the operating temperature after a good drive, I think i may have miss calcualted my pulley size, i think its overspinning and actually generating more heat than boost. Im still seing a good 10-12psi of boost still, but i reckon i can actually get this without spinning the charger up as fast. So im going to swap the pulleys over back to a standard one and see if i can still get the same boost, with the lower operating temps.

So going to take it to the unit, and get the charger cooler jacket put back on, and then put a stock pulley on and see how we do there.

Its great to finally drive it again, big smiles all round, i love whine!

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.