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Casper's Supercharged GTi - MK Indy Hayabusa Turbo - 413bhp/243ftlb


CasperGTI
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What actually causes the swirls in paintwork?

Nice job and great wheels.

Washing the car does (unless you do it properly, ie 2 bucket etc). petrol station car washes especially.

@casperGTI, I was going to do my bathursts white, will have to think of something else now! Looks fantastic

Edited by Defcon5
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Well basically nic, swirls in the paint is little scratches, and they only become swirls really because thats how its cleaned i.e in circular motions. So anything on the paintwork: dirt, tar, bugs etc etc.

When we wash the car, the dirt scratches the paint (ever so slightly) which dosent make the paint suface level any more, when sunlight hits it, the scratch reflects the light rather than passing the light through to the colour underneath the top coat. Hence why we can only see the swirls in direct light.

PC'ing your car si easy once you know how. Ive taught myself and read basic articles on detailing world (www.detailingworld.co.uk)

Theres various guides on there teaching you how to polich and gives you a basic understanding of what you actually doing.

Once you get it, its really just down to speed, pad type, pressure and compund. changing these will give you different results.

Menzerna is developed specifically for the hard top coats on VAG cars. If you want to learn how to PC, get yourself some of this (final finish polish would be a good start as its not too agressive and a megs final cut pad) and give it a go. Start off slow and work in small areas, use only enough polish to lightly cover the pad as to not clog it up (clogging the pad makes the pad heat up causing you to damage the paint) Always mask up edges of panels (bodywork tape), and mask up areas such as window sills, lights and plastic trim.

anyway that probably dont make sence, Go on to detailing world and have a look at there how to section Click Here

John

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:shades:

gorgeous. simple as that... excelent work with the polish too. although makes me feel really bad about how mine is looking at the moment!

lol, mine is well overdue a de-swirling session!

keep up the good work!

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Ah a matika, much trickier to use that a Megs G220. Much easier to cause damage to the paint if you don't know what you doing, thats why I asked, as from the looks of it, you do :P

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Ah a matika, much trickier to use that a Megs G220. Much easier to cause damage to the paint if you don't know what you doing, thats why I asked, as from the looks of it, you do :P

Haha tell me about it! i learnt the hard way... paint on the boot was bad, tried to rectify it when i didnt know what to do... ended up getting the boot resprayed... lol

Key to the rotary is to use slower speeds untill your happy, and make sure you use a good clean pad at all times. start off at the lightest cut and work to more abrasive if needed.

I thought about the 220, but cant warrant £150 quid or whatever they are nowadays.

I hear alot about this zaino, havent yet tried it, but looks an altogether different kettle of fish. Personally i dont think i need to at present. Paintwork is beautiful for a daily drive.

John

Edited by CasperGTI
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  • 2 months later...
Well spyed! it is indeed, Pretty good camera actually, would prefer a DSLR but it does the job.

John

Haha, I've got one too and like you say, for a 'point and shoot' I think it's pretty good :)

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  • 1 month later...

Ok so its been a long time... no pictures as of yet but they are soon to follow. im going to write a documented diary of it to go up in the tuning section when it gets nearer to completion.

The project is an eaton M45, the car is now off the road and i have been measuring up for the piping and intercooler first before the engine gets taken out for the internals. Over the weekend the top bracket should be done as i need that to make my custom blower delivery pipe.

The spec is the following:

Eaton M45 5th gen with custom boost pipe modifed from a cooper S running approx 10Psi with possible 15% reduction pulley

JE Custom Forged Pistons (Not the ones seen on this forum a few months ago, which were from a dodgy batch, never to reach a car)

Carrillio Forged Conrods with CARR 5/16th bolts and Through pin oiling.

Ferriday 3.0mm Decompression plate to lower compression to 8.2:1 with sealant and one HG

Emerald ECU with new fly by wire adaptor (prototyping at the moment) and Map sensor

Larger injectors if needed

Helix sports clutch

Intercooler to cover the lower splitter approx dims are 700x160x65

Atmospheric blow off valve

280mm Brakes

Expected power is anything from about 205BHP+ depending on the mapping.

Now there are many more concerns with the GTi engine compared to the other models/projects. The first being the size of the radiator on making it impossible to use a standard boost pipe. Another is Air conditioning making it even tighter to get the blower in. But the big one is the strength of the internals and fly by wire throttle.

I have remedys to all these problems, I hope! I expect this to take me the next 4-5 months as im busy and it is the winter. But i could supprise myself!

Will keep it updated.

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Limiter will be raised, but not too high as the standard gearing on the supercharger will give me max boost at about 7000rpm, so raised limiter to 7200 should do it.

What i want is the car to still have all its optional extras when i finish, there is enough room, but it just makes it that little more difficult...... normally solved by throwing more money at it!

I really cant put an exact figure on the power yet, most of it is in calcualtions. Id expect an 80% increase in power without live mapping so mabe 250 is acheivable.... but i dont think the top end would last with that extra power and heat.

They guys have a working fly by fire throttle through the emerald ecu on a prototype engine at the moment and it seems to be working. They reckon that it will be a propper product at the begining of next year, Im interested too.....

John

Edited by CasperGTI
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Fantasic project, im really looking forward to seeing the end result, I do have one question though. Why, if your having pistons custom made are you having a decompression plate? Why not have the pistons dished to lower the compression, a much better solution IMO. And will take more power for more miles...............your thoughts?

Edited by foxy
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Ah i already looked in to it foxy, your correct in it lasting longer yes... but i need to dish each piston by 15cc to drop the ratio down to what i need (lower than 8.5:1) which is huge, Its ok on engines like cosworths and YB's because you only need to drop the CR by 1 or 2.

with me needing to drop it by 3-3.5 it was going to comprimise the strength of the piston top, i didnt know if i could drop the stroke length so i decided that a plate would be better, which i already have.

Maximum i could have got in each piston was about 7cc which would have only taken the ratio down to about 9.2:1 and under high boost pressure that could lead to pre-ignition and a ratio in the region of 15:1.

Simpo - for a bit of cash :shades: , need a good light source and a dry day, depends on what you want to acheive and what products you want ot use really.

John

Edited by CasperGTI
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