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Casper's Supercharged GTi - MK Indy Hayabusa Turbo - 413bhp/243ftlb


CasperGTI
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Casper,

With regards to the lightened flywheel. I wholly recommend not doing it - particularly if you are knife-edging your crank. I lightened the flywheel on my mk2 golf 16v, and just found it..... not very nice to drive on the road. It would no doubt be minor use on the track, where your acceleration and breaking are at the limits, but for normal road use it just felt wrong. I felt as if the engine lost momentum too quickly, and was constantly having to manually rev match when just trying to lazily pootle along. Up inclines the loss was really noticable, and as the 16v blocks are all similar in character (i.e. not much torque unless your above 4-5k) I can imagine the experience would be exactly the same in the lupo.

Just thought i'd share my experience with you.

Good luck on build, keep up the good work.

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Doing the flywheel is one of the things i havent done yet as im really not sure weather to do it or not. Im told its better to have a lightened flywheel for cornering as the engine slows down alot faster.

Im still deciding, really cant decide on it, spoken to two of three guys heavily involved in motorsport and they have mixed views. Its really down to my personal preferance, and what i want to acheive.

My new audi S2 brakes have arrived, majorly in need of a rebuild though. Rebuild kit cost £28 and have stripped them tonight to take to have them shot blasted tomorrow morning i hope. Will post pictures up tomorrow when i have a bit of progress.

Counting down the days untill my pistons and rods return, should be picking up my head soon too. Lots of excitement!

John

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Ok so today i had a nice bit of progress, Took my engine block doen to the workshop and deglazed it with a big bog brush!, now nice and ready for the beading in of the total seal rings when they go back in. And picked up some more assembly fluid and graphogen for the bearing surfaces.

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Brakes turned up, there G60 Twin pots, Not G60 as in the car.. Girling 60 Calipers, of such cars as the S2... decided they were a bit worse for wear so i decided to completly rebuild them

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After stripping them, i realised the needed some hardcore wire brush treatment, after that i then rust treated them and painted them. Will now have to do the same to the rears to get the coulour right.

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Will be putting news seals back in tomorrow, jsu got to find some bleed nipples and some pads for them now, which is proving to be alot more difficult than i first expected, as this caliper came off about 5 different variants of car. Each having a different disc size/thickness.

After that i re-assembled the camshaft housing, putting graphogen, which is self lubricating and graphite based on all lobes and bearing surfaces as it takes roughly 2-5 seconds for a flow of oil to reach the camshafts, where major damage can occur.

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Then i slid in the camshafts, and used my special tool that ive been gagging to use to tighten up the adjuster and exhaust sprocket.

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End caps on, and jobs a gooden.

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John

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Had a flat out morning, now run out of enthusiasm and parts to do much more. Brake paint hasnt cured full yet, so im not touching them with brake fluid untill they have or there just go to pot when i fit the seals.

So today i put the ancilary brackets back on, waterpump etc... changed the clutch release bearing, mine was noisey and knackered so good job i did, i put the gearbox linkage back together aswell. Then i mocked up the decomp plate fit, looks spot on.

Engine is starting to look like something now, thank god for that. Lots of small chunks are starting to look like a few bigger chunks. i hope to have it ready to go back in the car in 4 weeks time from now. But knowing me that will be more like 6 weeks... Pushing it for UD, mabe a few late nights will help!

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John

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Pushing it for UD, mabe a few late nights will help!

Pro plus and Relentless are your friends for the next month!!

Snowy and i will come and pay you a visit one day, check that you're not slacking :P We're more than likely guna be no-riceing it in feb, dents and all.

Soooo glad you went with the orange theme btw, looks even better than i imagined :D

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Dude it will be fine, your the detailing king!

Is NR back in fleet for good now? I havent been for months, gutted that ive gotta go with the car in such a state but ive only got myself to blame!

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Final update for the day. I decided i would not be beaten by the brakes... so heres the finished result:

Plus after a conversation with dubjimbob for about a hour on weds night, its been decided that im going for a double sided belt to drive the charger, running the alternator backwards and using it as a pulley... no need for silly brackets and pulleys now :D

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Edited by CasperGTI
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cant wait to see this john :D

stunning work.

Edited by 12yan
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Will be putting news seals back in tomorrow, jsu got to find some bleed nipples and some pads for them now, which is proving to be alot more difficult than i first expected, as this caliper came off about 5 different variants of car. Each having a different disc size/thickness.

Have you managed to sort out what pads to run yet?

Im doing the same conversion on mine and was just guna use the S2 pads as these discs where 276mmx25mm. Only thing is G60 discs are 3mm thinner... what do you think?

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Have you managed to sort out what pads to run yet?

Im doing the same conversion on mine and was just guna use the S2 pads as these discs where 276mmx25mm. Only thing is G60 discs are 3mm thinner... what do you think?

Ive been lookin in to this, the S2 pads from audi are £102!.. so i think ill be getting some cheaper ones from somewhere else! GSF do the S2 pad (pagid pad P/N: 64580) for £35, i think ill be going for them.

Also a pad from a range rover was used on a Girling 60/280mm conversion. Think the pads were off a 98 Range Rover 2.5 DSE.

I think the disc size will be fine to be honest, just make sure you fully rebuild them so the extra travel dont snag on anything, the pistons are very deep as it is.

The caliper was used in the audi V8, and the 5000 quattro turbo from mid 1986 onwards, but they never came to the UK, i dont know the pad sizes used in them. From looking on other forums, mainly in the US a range of pads have been used,

If i get a low pedal problem, which may well occur as the gti master cylinder is circa 23mm which is the lowest specified for the Girling 60, and then you add the extra 3mm of travel too.... then ill need a 25.4mm girling master cylinder so solve it, brakes will be solid after that. Also if i dont change the master cylinder, the pressure imbalance between the front and rears may cause locking up problems, i have researched this fully yet though.

John

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And to think im papping myself just doing the G60 brake conversion :lol:

This thread need to be renamed "The Bible" :P

Lol thanks, its not quite the bible but im working on it.

By G60 you mean the disc conversion? not the G60 conversion im going?

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Ive been lookin in to this, the S2 pads from audi are £102!.. so i think ill be getting some cheaper ones from somewhere else! GSF do the S2 pad (pagid pad P/N: 64580) for £35, i think ill be going for them.

Also a pad from a range rover was used on a Girling 60/280mm conversion. Think the pads were off a 98 Range Rover 2.5 DSE.

I think the disc size will be fine to be honest, just make sure you fully rebuild them so the extra travel dont snag on anything, the pistons are very deep as it is.

The caliper was used in the audi V8, and the 5000 quattro turbo from mid 1986 onwards, but they never came to the UK, i dont know the pad sizes used in them. From looking on other forums, mainly in the US a range of pads have been used,

If i get a low pedal problem, which may well occur as the gti master cylinder is circa 23mm which is the lowest specified for the Girling 60, and then you add the extra 3mm of travel too.... then ill need a 25.4mm girling master cylinder so solve it, brakes will be solid after that. Also if i dont change the master cylinder, the pressure imbalance between the front and rears may cause locking up problems, i have researched this fully yet though.

John

Yeah i was looking at the pagid pads...pretty good value to, Mintex also do them but cost abit more though.

I've been wondering about the master cylinder issue aswell. well there in bits at the moment ready to be blasted and then powder coated.

Wanted to do this conversion to keep it looking oem as pos. Might have rethink before going ahead with it now.

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biggred do a rebild kit for them for about £28 posted.

Its a girling 40 and 45 kit that you want. Part number is BR204516 That includes everything.

Bleed nipples form audi are £2.88 each. Pads are £35.

Il tell you how it goes when i put them on. Probably will work fine, but the pedal may bite a little lower.

John

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