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Casper's Supercharged GTi - MK Indy Hayabusa Turbo - 413bhp/243ftlb


CasperGTI
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The blades have a different coating, either graphite or teflon, i havent myself found out. The black blades are the coated ones. they are have better cooling properties, and seal better between the blades.

Also the on on the left has a 11.5% reduction pulley on it as standard.

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Ive been told different things by mini dealers paul thats why im not 100% sure. And some forums are also the same as in to what there actually coated with.

Ive herd there graphite, and this is a sacrifical layer, which helps cooling and also the graphite actually touches on each of the blades wearing off over time and creating a better seal.

Ive also herd that there teflon, but i cant see how teflon actually aids cooling as a material?

Teflon is smooth, graphite is rough.

I dont really mind what there coated with, ive got the right one for the most power anyhow!

John

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Im aiming for as much as i can get out of the little engine!

To be honest if its over 220 ill be very happy. I reckon i could push 250 though with a hefty ammount of boost.

Each piston weighs 155g less than the original, and the conrods weigh 235g less than the original. Ive got a gas flowed a ported head, balanced and lightened crank an flywheel too. All this should help it see a nice increase i hope!

If dubjimbob and paulbin saw 95% and 80% respectivly increase in original power to a standard engine then my engine should in theory be able to find a little more to push me to the 100% increase.....

Only time will tell though. Im starting to get very excited though, with the head and the rods due back at the end of next week i could see the engine going back in around the second week of febuary.

John

Edited by CasperGTI
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Striped down the charger today, just to see how it works, cleaned it all out then changed the oil in it. It runs super smooth now.

Im chinging the pulley again, having a custom one made so i can spin it up to the right speed for my rpm. Works out at about 16500rpm at 6500rpm.

With the standard gearing, and the lupo crank pulley (approx ~130mm) the charger is only spinning at 12800rpm. There still loads of guts left in it at that speed!

Then painted it black with radiator paint so it wont affect the cooling... to match the colour scheme.

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John

Edited by CasperGTI
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Ok here you go, never gonna be able to keep it under wraps!

John

I can't keep saying the same thing, though i can't help it. It looks mint at the moment, so the finished article is going to be amazing. Your attention to detail is second to none!

Still yet to see that bottom bracket though... hehe. ahem. moving on.

Cheers.

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Still yet to see that bottom bracket though... hehe. ahem. moving on.

Thats because i havent made it yet! i need to engine back in one peice to make it correctly.

When you see it, your realise its a peice of cake. Its literally a bar from the bottom side of the charger down to the alternator bracket. Which may have to have a pulley attatched to it, but i doubt it looking at how im going to run it now.

Im expecting the rods this week, so i can start rebuilding when its all been balanced over the next week and a half.

John

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Ah righty, i just couldn't realise it, i've dry fitted mine in the past though couldn't see what else was needed, apart from the top bracket then realised it need more stabilising, just couldn't imagine where too though.

Things are getting exciting as you say what all the small pieces start making big pieces!

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Yeah tell me about it, it would be nice to see it finished soon!

Just spoke to the guy about my head, Ive had to have new exhaust guides as the bronze guides used in these heads are pap! So thats a little set back, but if it needs to be done then it needs to be done!

John

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Did you manage to get hold of that gearbox we were talking about John?

Im still after one of those selector arms

cheers

tom

No tom sorry, the blokes being bloody useless! Im still trying as ill need a spare.

Update on my front though.

Some of you might know, that my pistons were designed wrong, not my fault.... a cock up between JE and Carrillio.

The gti engine is unique again where the con rods are piston guided, where most conventional cars are crank guided. This means that at one end, there should be a 150 thou gap on the journal. And at the other end approx a 10 thou gap. Well long and short of it i got a 150 thou gap at both ends!

So the pisons have had to go back and be re worked. JE have made some forged bushes and they have to be machined in to the piston, which in the long run is expensive but makes them stronger as they will have a larger thrust face, and of course no cost gets passed on to me as its not my problem.

So thats set me back about 2 weeks. No problem really as my heads still not ready!

And been looking more in to the ecu front. My oem recode dream is slowly falling appart. had a friend look at the ecu and the data on it (desoldered from the ecu and data taken off, then soldered back on), and decode certain parts of it, and he dosent reckon i will be able to see the full potential out of it.

We've been researching in to the charger more, and my engine set up further... And it looks like we could possibly see approx 18psi of boost with the right pulley, and if i was to use a standalone ecu i could see power in the region of 230-280bhp apparently.

Only time will tell, Time to start rebuilding!

John

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Minor setbacks dude...its things like this i wanted to wait till your done to avoid falling in that trap myself. The OEM ecu remap- what potential can be achieved by this compared to standalone? has Emerald managed to wangle that kit that allows for fly by wire yet?

if the cost outweighs the potential, then i'd go for standalone...this budget now skyrockets i'm guessing to 6k or more?

Are the rods with you now and theyre ok? :D

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Minor setbacks dude...its things like this i wanted to wait till your done to avoid falling in that trap myself. The OEM ecu remap- what potential can be achieved by this compared to standalone? has Emerald managed to wangle that kit that allows for fly by wire yet?

if the cost outweighs the potential, then i'd go for standalone...this budget now skyrockets i'm guessing to 6k or more?

Are the rods with you now and theyre ok? :D

Costs around a standalone roll in at about £1700 trailer in drive out. I dont want to look at the budget, but i can tell you, im going over mine now!

After a long conversation with the guy today, the standard ecu wasnt designed for the power im expecting now, so i think standalone is the only route really, The std ecu may well be able to handle it i.e run the engine, but its designed for emissions and economy, not power and performance. It may have more maps than the emerald, but there pretty useless when your doubling the power using forced induction TBH.

I think it was a bit of a dream in the end, it may well work on a lower powered gti or lupo, but i think i should stop being a cheapskate and just bite the bullet and spend the extra money. Its going to be the thing that makes the engine run afterall.

Storm devleopments have a flyby wire adapter for the emerald. But im thinking about going down the route of a cable throttle body fit now as i might need a bigger throttle butterfly than standard.

John

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