mk2

That sounds like something else... not immob. Need more info.

Don't drive it for another second. It might be salvagable.... better to stop in your driveway than have to organise a tow truck when out and about to get you home again. Cheaper too. It's going to be off the road for at least a week anyway. Start now! From what i've heard, the needle bearing race inside gear 5 melts when lube is low (made of plastic). They cost about £2... complete 085 gearbox rebuild kit on ebay for about £100.

We're just around the corner... I know some of the senior bods who might be interested in speaking with you, but as you know, they're a self important lot, (and IMO) probably think they're better than everyone else! Yeah, you know what I mean. BP is ex gov after all... I wonder if that V12 cut away engine is still in reception? Haven't been there for a couple of years.

Tried a backup key?

What are your thoughts on the 4 ball oil test? We used to work with the guys at Castrol BP research centre down the road from us here in reading. Their take on it was the best method was stop start engine running- lots and lots of engines lined up being cycled, all identical, on same base oils but different additives. Then strip down and microscopically examine....

Sump blow by gases cause so many many problems with fuel injected engines. I just wish there was a solution other than diverting everything down towards the road. When an engine sucks clean fresh filtered air, it runs so much cleaner, more efficiently and smoother. As soon as oily hydrocarbon waste contaminents are introduced, air valves get clogged, the backs of the inlet valves build up crusty gunge, catalytic converters get poisoned, vacuum systems get blocked, EGR starts to stick, throttle valves build up stickyness, MAP sensors misbehave... the list just goes on and on. Every car/truck/thing I ever get my hands on, I divert the blowby gases. Result is an engine that never ever lets you down (unless there's a component failure). The emissions from my 'dirty' diesel SDIs are always well below the 0.7 limit (set by the little compliance plate in the engine bay). Almost fresh air. Modern diesels they now MOT test to the 2.5 limit and they still fail........

Hey hey! I didn't know we've got an Opie oil person on here. You guys have very reasonable oil in bulk. I still have about 300L remaining. Will have to buy some more from you soon.... no complaints from me with your oil sales. Just wish you were a bit closer ro Reading.

I hate to say it, but it sounds like a loom fault. Try swapping over the power plugs to the injectors. May take a bit of jiggling... injector plug 1 on injector 2, injector plug 2 on injector 1. Will run with injectors firing at the wrong time, but rough as there's not enough air flow to properly mix the fuel air (do it on a warm/hot engine). If the fault moves to cyl 2, you'll know it's probably the loom. Alternatively, swap the pins in the ECU plug... not running at all is something else. You need diagnostics now.....

odd... has it been in a rear end?

I don't have a spare.. have you had your's in bit yet? what failed? There are a couple of people on here with a FFV for sale. Can't remember who though. About £150? Hens teeth they are.

it's probably under the boot carpet on a sticker in the wheel well

One tip for anyone else thinking of getting a dash cam... there are so so many fakes out there. Really. You can only tell when you remove the memory card and play back on a PC or something with a big screen. Fakes are always pixellated or blurred. You want crystal clear and pin sharp images. I bought and returned 4 before I found one that actually was the full HD resolution 1080P. And get a decent genuine memory card, as the cheap ones are slow and don't keep up with the data rate they need to record at. I have a crosstour 1080P. Very good recorded video, even at night.

Yeah, but to remove it, everything else has to come out, as there is a screw at the top holding it in place. Headliner out first... it's a three hour job start to finish. but at the same time, you can bung in a microphone for in car phone systems and a DAB antenna stuck to the back right window.

It is a gorgeous looking machine. Great photography always helps, which there is here.

Yeah, i've fitted a crosstour dashcam on the interior mirror. (Genuine 1080P recording- most DCs are fakes). Since you never ever look at it or need to touch it, i made a foam wedge and double sided taped it to the back of the left hand side of the interior mirror. All you see from the inside is the usb power cable hanging down from the gap in the roof trim. When you turn on the ignition you get a beep, telling you it's recording, and then again about 30 seconds after you switch off. make sure you can access the uSDcard. i had to remove everything- roof trim, centre mirror, sun visors and clips, front grab handles and side windscreen trim to run the cable up behind it. Connected to the ign on power feed at the headlight switch. There is no other way of routing it. I tried to use the interior light power feed, but the camera then never switched off (no good).

Yeah. Voltmeter probably the easiest. Otherwise plug and play... The contact gets gunged up, starts arcing slightly then dies. If you're brave you can dismantle it, clean and bend the contacts and get another ten years from it.

Main power relay...

Brake pedal- sort it once you've got new discs and pads. Once they're in, you'll need to bleed the system and it'll behave like a new car again. Radio- common problem. There is a circuit board at the base of the antenna that is usually fed with 12V from the OEM radio, down the central wire of the coax. If you use an aftermarket hifi which usually doesn't have a power feed, you need to plug in a power feed unit into the antenna cable. Couple of quid or there abouts from fleabay, suspension- just repair the original components, which will be the easiest / cheapest option. I use a bump stop from an old gen passat at the back. Fits better than the lupo one. exhaust holes- remove the 4 manifold bolts (get new copper nuts) and have someone weld the cat, as they're expensive to replace. The rest of the system is straight forward. Buy a decent one (ernst/asso/walker) and it'll last more than 2 years (cheap are just not worth it). Replace the rubber hangers (decent brand) if needed once everything is back together again. cam belt change- see "how to" gearbox flush & refill- "how to" gearbox linkage- might just need a new rubber ball, rubber boot and synthetic grease. After all that, it'll be like a new car again!

That did make me laugh... Is there any money in doing conversions these days? When I worked out the hourly rate, it works out better to be on income support! Like £3 an hour... hobby maybe, but as a living?

So that's where it was from.... I get it now.

... or use a huge desktop PC that needs a power station fully charged with tons of coal; start an ancient operating system, load some programs, plug in a thing called a mouse, then you can make a crazy animated spiral .GIF image to mezmerise everyone... (or annoy everyone -especially @mscherryviolet & @Rich)

Hey you know those lapel pin things on here... i wonder what one of them would look like set into the top of an 'S' spec gear knob. Polish off the shift pattern, then with a die grinder, carve out a shallow recess then inlay it with a bit of epoxy. I reckon it'd look cool. I have a spare 'S' spec gear knob, so I'll try it as soon as...

Cluster fault.

Yeah, I might do. Bung jenny in the back along with angle grinder. And see what else is there. £50 for a wheel seems a bit steep though. 3h round trip for me. I might be able to do it in passing on my way down to kent again in about two weeks if still there. What d'ya need?

How's it drive? Been reading that the power to weight isn't the best. 113hp and over a ton! Heavy little thing. There must be a mini black hole stored on board somewhere to get the weight. Not as punchy as the Lupo Gti though. I'm interested in your personal comparison having now owned both. looks fab though...