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tom01997

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    Brum / Brighton

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    Ratty 1.0 SE

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  1. Thanks Sausage, I'll do a compression check cold and warm tomorrow. I did allow it to warm up after refitting the head so i have no problem doing that. Though it behaves the same when starting from warm - idles fine for first few seconds and then the misfire comes in. Checked the bottom end whilst the head was off, bores and pistons are all good and turns over freely with no signs of anything amiss. The piston on 1 reaches TDC so doubt a conrod is bent. The guy that reworked the head checked it all over for damage so I'm confident it's not that now. All valves were opening happily prior to installing the head too. The misfire is persistent at idle and with revs, no unusual noises from the cam that I can hear. Cheers Tom
  2. Finally managed to find some time to work on the loop having submitted my dissertation! Had the ECU tested, and I am told there is nothing wrong with it. We checked timing, but I foolishly confused the locating pin for the serpentine belt pulley as the timing mark. So incorrectly "fixed" the timing and bent four exhaust valves. Not my finest moment. Head came off and was sent for a rework (does allow me to guarantee it's not a head problem I suppose...). Inspected bores, all in good nick with no lipping or scoring. While head was off, noticed that the precat was clogged so that got "unblocked" in the hope that the problem was cat related all along. Throttle body, intake manifold and egr piping were cleaned out thoroughly while waiting for the head to come back. Head refitted with new bolts and gasket, everything back exactly as it should be, torqued to spec etc. New seals on inlet manifold and camshaft seal renewed. Fresh cam belt fitted while we're at it, with crank/cam timing bang on correct. Threw some new coolant in the tank. Fired up and let it run for oil to get where it needed to be. Quickly realised the miss on cylinder 1 was still there. It runs happily for 5 secs after start but then it starts missing, just as before. Its almost as though the ECU is making an active decision to create a misfire on that cylinder. Checked injectors again and all fire as they should. Now I'm back to cracked inlet - sprayed carb cleaner around the manifold again but doesn't seem to be cracked, removed to reinspect and can't find anything amiss. Any other thoughts would be a massive help, before I just decide to break it and put the money into my Scimitar instead cause I am at a total loss 😅 Cheers Tom
  3. Thanks mk2, I figured I was barking up the wrong tree. I have had the OBD plugged in which gave me; P0301 Cyl 1 Misfire (unsurprising) P0443 Evap Canister Purge Valve. Is this referring to the charcoal canister under the driver side headlight, and are the valves a common failure? P0403 EGR Valve. I'm struggling to see how either of the latter would be causing a cylinder specific misfire though.
  4. So I managed to get it running again a few days ago, it was an ECU fuse blown.... Oddly on startup it ran fine for 30 seconds, and then the misfire came back. I ran a similar test to the one you are describing, by removing the rail and putting bottles over the injectors. All four fire the same amount of fuel so I don't think this is a fuelling issue after all, unless the ECU is struggling to get the timing right. A friend suggested a worn camshaft intake lobe could be causing the problem, so I spent yesterday having the belts and cover off to inspect it. All looked good to me with little in the way of wear. Think it might be head off time, despite the reasonable compression i still suspect something is amiss.
  5. Happy new year all. Apologies for the long post! I wonder if anybody here is knowledgeable on the AUC engine as fitted to my 2003 Lupo, as I am at a total loss as to what is wrong with mine. A month or so ago it started misfiring. I replaced with a brand new ignition coil, HT leads and spark plugs to eliminate potential spark problems. The misfire remained. With the engine running, unplugging injector 1 does not change the idle. Nor does unplugging the HT lead. So the issue is on cylinder 1. I swapped the injector on cylinder 1 over to cylinder 4. The problem stayed on cylinder 1, so the injector is not at fault. I ran a compression test, and all 4 cylinders sat at 125/126PSI, so it has compression. Today I fitted a replacement injector wiring loom. The misfire remained on cylinder 1. I then fitted a replacement fuel rail & injectors. No change. So, I removed the battery to inspect the wiring which runs to the ECU. I connected the battery to the terminals using a pair of jump leads. By wiggling the wiring loom, I hoped to isolate any wiring issue. But when I fired it up, it cut out after a second, as it would if I had an immobiliser issue. Even after putting the battery back in, it still wouldn't run. So now, instead of having a misfiring Lupo, I have a non-running Lupo. Having spent a small fortune on air suspension this (last) year, i'm pretty gutted I can't get it running again. Any ideas as to what might be wrong with it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  6. Got details and pics of the body kit dude?
  7. Can't buy it, but damn this is gorgeous! If you don't mind me asking, how were the rear arches done?
  8. Have considered it but would be hard to actually make money on to be honest, and not everyone likes them - USDM kits seem more popular at the moment. I haven't got them fitted anymore unfortunately so I can't get you any photos, I rushed fitting them and the wiring needs a good tidy up. When I refit them, i'll take some photos if you're interested. There's a diagram I drew to try and explain the relays a bit better as that's probably the most difficult part - here. The pin numbers are written on the relays to make life easier. You want two 'changeover' relays. If you want to get the little holders printed, the STL file for printing is here. Dimensions are in mm - I used 3DHubs to get them printed in Nylon so they're nice and strong, but ABS would probably work ok. Make sure it's a "HD" print though, as some parts of the holder are fiddly and some printers won't be able to do it.
  9. I'm willing to ignore the lurid green, given that the wheels are looking absolutely fantastic 
  10. I like where it's at now tbh, give it a bloody good polish as imo some of the paint looks a little matted (might just be the pics), maybe joey the headlights to complement the fresco green, and i'd definitely polish the hell out of the new wheels till you can see your face in them! And another note, I do believe your amp fuse is in the wrong place in the boot, ideally it should be as close to the battery as possible in case it chafes and shorts on any metal on the way from the front of the car to the back... As sausage said, i would also love to see a turbo'd 1.0 just because it's a brilliantly ridiculous idea Really love it though, nice to see another fresco loop!
  11. Yeah... I may have been factually incorrect there Hence why in my other topic i wanted a grommet near the pedal - the kits suggest mounting the actuator cable onto the throttle pedal but it is just too tight under there. I can't even get my hand in, let alone tighten up bolts! I think there is a little ball joint between the pedal and the throttle sensor linkage bit that one kit suggests you fit a ring loop onto; So that would make it a little easier I suppose.. The second issue is that in order to get the cable to pull the pedal at the right angle I would have to make a hole in the firewall for the cable to pull through. But the throttle pedal is almost directly in line with the wheel arch, and so once the cable got through the firewall, it has nowhere to go except into the wheel! If anyone can correct me on this, please do! Vagpart shows a spot, but I can't see it for the life of me because it's so far up the dash! For the time being, I have returned the kit within the 7 days so I don't have to pay a £50 handling charge, but I do have a few cables I can play around with - I may try and route a throttle cable into the engine bay myself, from the pedal, and if that cable works smoothly enough, re-order the kit and affix it to that. But as far as I can see, there isn't any easy way of doing this - it may even be a dashboard out job. Let's face it though, it never was going to be easy!
  12. Thanks guys, think thats the closest im gonna get. If you see my other thread im trying to fit a cruise kit but need a grommet as close to the pedals as possble and wanted to know if there might be one below the steering column that I hadn't spotted...
  13. Right then, which one of you clever clogs can tell me where in the firewall I might find a grommet, preferably near the pedal cluster? Seen some posts on here about amp wiring but the photo someone uploaded has gone dead
  14. Right, i decided not to import a kit from Aus/the US, because it's too much mucking about with customs and shipping times plus the lack of support available etc etc. Picked up a kit called a Waeco MS50 from a local company called Conrad Anderson. The kit uses a vacuum servo, not an electric servo so it has be tapped into a vacuum hose off the inlet manifold. Hopefully the vacuum on the little 1.0 is strong enough to hold the throttle cable, if not I am told a vacuum reserve tank can be used to help out? If anybody is knowledgeable in this field, an explanation of how vacuum lines work, and how a reserve tank could help, would be much appreciated. Anyway, the control buttons that come with it look positively non-factory, so if I do get it working correctly, i'll try and get a T4 stalk and see if i can get that to work with the kit too.
  15. I pinched some off my '72 beetle that had 'wolfsburg edition' on them, pleasantly surprised they fit, all metal so they aren't going to break any time soon! Get a bit cold in winter though Think they were 2 for £20 IIRC...
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