Clairey Fairy Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 Probs my own fault, but i decided to ignore my EPC light for a few months as i managed to convince myself i just needed a new brake switch...Apparently not - came back from his service today to be told that my ABS needs replacing?! Im waiting for the guy to get back to me with the exact parts/labour i need as i cant remember anymore He mentioned that he had a lady come in with her polo and it cost her over £1500 to get it right. She couldnt raise the funds and sold up...VAGCOM can clear the fault down, but as soon as you tap the brake it pops back up. Brakes are fine, and ABS seems fine aswell. It doesnt get the chance to kick in to often to be honnest as im not a drift slag and i dont brake sharply.Im going to take him to a few more gargaes to check im not being taken for a ride - anyone got any ideas? He's 2002 GTi with (eek) 70k on the clockMega thanks if anyone can help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Green Giant Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 what is the epc because mine came on for about 5 mins today and then went off!!!? but i dont have ABS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clairey Fairy Posted March 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 what is the epcVery grey area that one mate! Some say its the engine mgt light, others say it stands for "Electrontic Pedal Control"Basically its a fracking annoying thing that i want gone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardaft Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 I would think it is your brake light switch!Take it somewhere else! Dont pay silly ammounts when its possibly not thatSurely if it is the ABS it would put up the ABS light? I had the brake light switch go on my arosa a few years ago, dealer cleared the code and it came straight back on when i pressed the brake. SO it does sound like that to me, epsecially if your ABS is working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyp Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 abs sensors are about 20 quid from gsf.. so not exactly expensive, get someone to tap your brake pedal when your stood behind it, if only one side is working, then its your brake switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitchell Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 take it to phirm, abs units do not go wrong often i'd be wary of any **** that say's otherwise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clairey Fairy Posted March 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 This is what baffles me though - this is the 2nd brake swich ive had, everytime i get a fault reader it doesnt throw up a problem - we get the light off, i Drive 100 yards down the road and it comes on again When it came on the first time round i was pootling along in traffic and i was just "covering the brake" as my instuctor used to say. Might take him to see the guys at Vagcheck and see what they think.Random as hell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niche Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 Try braking on a car which doesn't have a servo. Build's up your muscles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clairey Fairy Posted March 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 Brake lights are fine, only one that doesnt work is the one in the spoiler coz the connector has corroded. Cant believe that its this thats setting off the light?Yeah i can feel a trip to the phirm comming on - such a pain in the bum to get to though! How those two got down their drive in a 100mm slammed Rado i'll never know Niche - Id love to tell you how that feels, but if i said i knew what a servo was id be a liar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicki Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 I've been through 6 brake light switches - including one which stopped working... then started working again... then about 3 weeks later, stopped working again. (FYI: early switches were black, which are the ones that died regularly, later switches are purple and the one I've got now has lasted well over a year so far)I'd get a 2nd opinion if I were you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clairey Fairy Posted March 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 Thanks Nicki - the one that got fitted today was Purple Apparently the mechanic at this garage is a bit of a drama queen (my stepdads Mk5's wireing loom caught fire once and the mechy threw a pissy fit saying it can never be driven again ) so it might not be as bad as it sounds, might pop to the main stealers in my lunch brake and wave snowy under their noses...6 switchs seems a bit excessive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niche Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 if your car doesn't have a brake servo like the polo mk2's and earlier than you have to stamp on the brake pedal to brake, stamp as if you plan to kick someone.its quite tricky driving a modern car where you tap the brakes and you can brake sharply, do that in a polo mk2 and it wont even slow you down by 1mph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver! Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Brake Servo (Pneumatic) according to http://www.kfz-tech.de/index1.html?EFunctionThe brake servo unit intensifies the force of the driver’s foot on the brake pedal. The pneumatic brake servo unit was developed in the 60’s, when the bigger cars made a switch from drum brakes to disc brakes at the front axle. There was no more self reinforcement, and the required pedal pressure was too high. In addition, the car industry at that time was particularly inspired by the US–market, where all kinds of auxiliary facilities were used. The first units intensified so strongly that with a little pedal pressure the vehicle attempted a full braking. This has changed, of course. How it worksIf the vehicle is equipped with an Otto engine with a throttle plate, the negative pressure in the intake pipe is usually sufficient to operate the brake servo unit. All other engine types, including the Diesel engine, have to have a vacuum pump. In both cases, while the engine is running, the negative pressure is directed through a one way valve into both chambers of the brake servo unit. As long as the brake is not operated both chambers are connected with each other via channels. There is a movable diaphragm in between the chambers.If the driver starts braking, the connecting rod moves left, pressing the seal of the double valve against the valve seat, thereby closing the connection between the two chambers. In accordance with the brake pedal force, more or less air at atmospheric pressure gets into the right chamber via an air cleaner (see arrows!), intensifying the brake force. The pressure in the right working chamber is bigger than in the left vacuum chamber. The diameter of the servo unit, still indicated in inches, determines the maximum braking force. For heavier vehicles one might make use of three or four chambers if there is not enough space for one sufficiently large unit. If there is a hydraulic system already present, the support work might be taken over by a substantially smaller hydraulic servo brake. Non-braking modeThe brake pedal is connected to the brown tappet and the black ring seal via the piston rod. Both the tappet and the ring seal exhibit a small distance to their respective mounting faces. There is negative pressure in both chambers. The outside connection is blocked, because the brown tappet has contact with the black ring seal.Partly-braking modeThe piston rod is moved leftward. The brown tappet ceases the contact with the black ring seal. The green spring moves it and consequently disconnects the two chambers from each other. The right working chamber is (partly) vented with air at atmospheric pressure. This lasts until the diaphragm with the complete control box is so far left that the brown tappet is connected to the black ring seal again. The increase of pressure in the right chamber depends on the brake pedal force. Full-braking modeIn the full-braking mode the black ring seal cannot be moved further left. There is no connection with the brown tappet. In the right chamber the full atmospheric pressure is effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clairey Fairy Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Semi good news!Took Snowy to the proper VW this time, and asked them to take a look and explained about the whole ABS unit thing. They've now decided that the brake switch they supplied me with is faulty, and they will be replacing and fitting it this lunchtime FOC So finger crossed i wont be seeing orange on my dash for the first time sinse October :SHappy days...p.s - VW dictionary definition of EPC stands for "Electronic Power Control" - not pedal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clairey Fairy Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 lolz - thanks for doing a Daz_Kez on me Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver! Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 lolz - thanks for doing a Daz_Kez on me Ray ...but I did reference it, maybe not exactly correct, but I did reference it!Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dxg Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 The EPC light (specifically as opposed to the general engine management light) comes on whenever the ECU is confused about how much unburned fuel it's sending down the exhaust. It's supposed to act as a warning that you could be damaging your cat. It could be any number of sensors that are producing erratic readings. If the engine's running pretty much fine, then I would start the lambda sensor and work from there. As has been said above, if it is a problem with the ABS the ABS light will come on. Take it to another garage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clairey Fairy Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 (edited) So finger crossed i wont be seeing orange on my dash for the first time sinse October :SHappy days...Or not.Fitted a new brake switch didnt help, that friggen light is still on my dash. Due to having this work done under warranty, they were very reluctant to tell me what exactly it was that they did behind closed doors, and i practically had to strangle the VAGCOM results out of them...Its now throwing up a fault code regarding the ECU They wouldnt tell me anymore unless i booked the car in for "further investigation"Last chance saloon is to get the top level brake light soldered and connected; and after that, who knows........ Edited April 3, 2008 by Clairey Fairy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyp Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 It shouldnt have anything to do with the high level light not working, mine doesnt and it shows no faults on board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clairey Fairy Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 anyone got a spare ECU kicking around?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petes 16V Sport Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 (edited) The EPC light (specifically as opposed to the general engine management light) comes on whenever the ECU is confused about how much unburned fuel it's sending down the exhaust. It's supposed to act as a warning that you could be damaging your cat.No thats the emissions warning light that comes on for that. Happened when my lambda (sp?) sensor broke on me. Its a different light to EPC... can't quite remember which one it is though! Edited April 3, 2008 by Petes 16V Sport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 anyone got a spare ECU kicking around?!http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=40132Bit extreme maybe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicki Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Tim (tdwindustries) had problems with his ECU and iirc, ended up paying £££ for a new one.Speak to AdamK as he was the next owner of the car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 if a replacement costs similar or more than what i'm asking for my ECU you may aswell get a remapped performance one. also fitting of a new ECU costs £60 to configure to your immobiliser. mine comes with the working corresponding chip so just goes on your keyring or as i'm doing at the moment inside my wallet for extra security, aslong as its inside the car it starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clairey Fairy Posted April 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 It ever used to bother me to be honnest, its been there sinse early october last year, and there is nothing wrong with the car (as far as anyone has been able to see/feel) so ive ignored it as long as i could, but now its really bugging me. I will seriously concider buying a second hand ECU, not sure of the remapped version at this stage as insurance prices are painful enough as it is!More thinkage required... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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