Jump to content

GTI Upgrades


Recommended Posts

21 hours ago, Rich said:

I have a spare 

I would like the trw number please.

will PM about the alternator bracket

TRW PN - Absolutely, very happy to share info, I was going to do a thread about them, but lets wait to see if the supplied parts are correct type. This all assumes the correct parts were on my Gti...

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 234
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Hi Nacho  - The manifold was on the Lupo when I got it - yes those dbilas manifolds are very expensive. the previous owner said that it wasnt built that well & he had to do a lot of work tidying i

Thanks Guys Huibs rebuilt: The slightly rusty drive flange was replaced only a few months before they broke the lupo up. Threadlocked stainless bolts hopefully wont weld themselves

Been picking away at the Lupo half an hour here a couple of hours there. I have nearly reached bottom for parts being removed with only gear selector being the last thing to extract, everything around

Posted Images

I had a knocking tie rod and the rack just felt worn so I replaced the whole lot.

Specific parts 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm still waiting on them turning up - plus I can not be sure the inner tierod is genuine Gti item ....could check for PN...

The amazon guy turned up with metal files, got to work tidying my radiator mounting made out of 3mm alloy, need to get some M6 Nylock nuts and washers & the section under the Rad is separate - needs pop riveting to the main part:

eXs0vx.jpg

Its a Polo radiator thicker than original, sadly the extra thickness means it hits the side light and the passenger side mounts do not line up. Was thinking a bit of angle alloybut will have a go with builders tape first.

Oil cooler will need part of the front panel cut away to get the pipes to the sandwich plate.

Think I will de-grease the whole panel first.

Link to post
Share on other sites

No - its a lot smaller than original VR6 rad complete overkill - smaller but more efficient rad allows space for oil cooler too

Been quite busy today

Good news is I got the rear spring seat adjuster to move - seems the PO must have had shares in copper grease, great if it has not dried up, and too easy to remove if its still wet, really dont like the stuff, it was clogging the adjuster. I ended up cutting a slot in the section I was not going to use and then applied heat, the hilariously named super crack, brake cleaner, rinse repeat several times and it started to move:

yPnnhz.jpg

At least I wont have a week and a half wait for the replacement plus shell out probably £70 for new one.

Been holding back on replacing the Gearbox as all my help have flu or away at with the beavers, so decided to just make a start, weirdly I didnt take a picture, but got as far as swapping the flywheel over, old and new, no prize for spotting the lightened one:

fxyqWp.jpg

Lightened fly wheel on, but engine is flapping about, I have to get an assistant to hold the engine/ flywheel still so I can do the 90 degree final tighten. Oh & I found a pot of black engine paint.

CH60Ve.jpg

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Flywheel locking device..  

I use a hammer and a metal block for seized coils and I too dislike copper grease, tend to use more CV grease these days.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, mk2 said:

Is that a stock pic or did that happen to your clutch pressure plate spring thing....?

I googled for inspiration - thought the water mark was a give away!

It worked - the spanner onto pressure plate and bolt into block worked fine, turns out the most suitable piece of wood to go between block and firewall is supporting the engine... so I got the wife to stop the engine from trying rotate itself and the flywheel is properly attached - just dont know the pressure plate torque??

z4SIw1.jpg

Spookily - I suspect the recent chat about copper grease in this thread prompted Amazon to send an email suggesting the stuff...what a world we live in today

Decided the block was too crusty

ClR3C4.jpg

So removed the alternator bracket & oil cooler filter housing, applied some LGTB friendly masking and got busy with wire brush on drill 

UAEYTv.jpg

Applied paint, cleaned chassis legs, replaced cooler filter housing & added oil cooler sandwich plate, this is how it is tonight

2cfAOn.jpg

Paint isnt perfect, but looks a lot better than it was

Filled up the gearbox with special LSD oil, only thing stopping it going back on is the pressure plate torque and maybe a helping hand.

 

Edited by LR5V
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks fella - have you got all your bits for your beam rebuild?

Good news, box is in and wooden block is gone, just need to fit the subframe and the exhaust can get re-fitted properly

7uD8GG.jpg

Its piddling with rain here, so kept myself busy with finishing the Radiator & oil cooler shroud / mount even test fitted the oil cooler pipes, all looking good. The bracket for the cooler is made by Setrab, it is holding the cooler  hard against the shroud with no flex - considerably better than the strips that come with the Mocal kit

OWqLxV.jpg

Power steering delete - you have to drain the rack of fluid, I dropped the rack and turned the spline with a 14mm spanner, found the steering to get lighter and lighter as the oil was pumped out - hope I dont regret this!

QGy1vf.jpg

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, LR5V said:

Thanks fella - have you got all your bits for your beam rebuild?

Good news, box is in and wooden block is gone, just need to fit the subframe and the exhaust can get re-fitted properly

7uD8GG.jpg

 

Just waiting for ABS sensors and new Hubs thats it now. 

then once the beam is back from powder coating it will be put back together and fitted. I will be proud at this point because it will be the first time ive done a proper rebuild on a bit of the car. :D some people probably will say its nothing but im not mechanically experienced

Link to post
Share on other sites

The previous owner did the cams, inlet and exhaust himself - then took it to be re-mapped. If you stick with normal aspirated you will need aftermarket engine management - you have to work backwards working out who you want to map your car and what ECU's they work with.

My Cams are fast road, they are not lumpy, it revs like a normal engine till 6k and than goes nuts 

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, LR5V said:

The previous owner did the cams, inlet and exhaust himself - then took it to be re-mapped. If you stick with normal aspirated you will need aftermarket engine management - you have to work backwards working out who you want to map your car and what ECU's they work with.

My Cams are fast road, they are not lumpy, it revs like a normal engine till 6k and than goes nuts 

Okay mate thankyou I’ve messaged tsr about a build like this hoping they can help !, as the moneys sat there waiting, looking at cams flywheel pistons and itb ! 

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are going to the bother of pistons you will also need rods. The only person who does off the shelf stuff for AVY engine is this guy in Norway Rosten Performance he does both - and knows his stuff. Shame the pound is so deflated against the Euro. Schrick do entire cam kits with springs, valves, retainers.

Have you read the Lupo GTI Super 1600 ITB (264bhp) thread? 

Engine management is a big chunk of money, you need to look into what each system offers - my current favourite is EMU Black as you get a lot more features at a lower price point than similar management and it does fly by wire throttle -something you dont see on any cheaper management.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, LR5V said:

If you are going to the bother of pistons you will also need rods. The only person who does off the shelf stuff for AVY engine is this guy in Norway Rosten Performance he does both - and knows his stuff. Shame the pound is so deflated against the Euro. Schrick do entire cam kits with springs, valves, retainers.

Have you read the Lupo GTI Super 1600 ITB (264bhp) thread? 

Engine management is a big chunk of money, you need to look into what each system offers - my current favourite is EMU Black as you get a lot more features at a lower price point than similar management and it does fly by wire throttle -something you dont see on any cheaper management.

Thanks for the reply that build is to die for, I got quoted 4000£ for probably in increase of about 50bhp max on the engine with the engine mods discussed, can itb be ran on standard engine with the correct mods to make them fit with mapping ? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Jordankeeble said:

Thanks for the reply that build is to die for, I got quoted 4000£ for probably in increase of about 50bhp max on the engine with the engine mods discussed, can itb be ran on standard engine with the correct mods to make them fit with mapping ? 

Yes. What engine is it? Send me a message. (Sorry for thread hijack)

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, cj1 said:

Yes. What engine is it? Send me a message. (Sorry for thread hijack)

@cj1 Please hijack away - I have DBW bike throttle bodies waiting, if I can get them on with existing management it would be really good to know - how do you deal with the map sensor & calculate the volume of air?

@Blue Loop Thanks Man

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Was taking a bit of a break + weather has not been on my side.

Today I visited a couple of scrap yards, for once I was organised, made a list before leaving - but made the list in a rush and forgot one item...

Picked up a replacement rear ABS sensor connector - it just would not un-clip so I ended up mangling the clip, replacement sourced form Mk4

q8CVsA.jpg

Hopefully when these are installed, numpties carving me up will get a good blast form these A3 High Lows. Going to keep the current clown like horn for MOT. Need to make up a relay to power the horns - at least it is close to the engine fuse board!

rpllAF.jpg

Engine loom nearly re-installed, waiting on Ebay alternator bracket - I need one short bolt to install the new bracket - this is what I forgot at the yards!  Holding off installing the inlet manifold until the drive shafts, subframe with rack is installed

BkI3jN.jpg

Speaking of sub frame its entirely built and torqued up, hoping to get some help tomorrow to get this and the rear beam back into the Lupo.

W2tHh5.jpg

I have decided to not re-new my inner tie rods - old ones were OK, no noticeable play, just a bit floppy. VW want £100 a side for complete tie rods  - I thought I had though I had found a cheap fix, but the TRW web site lied to me.

I am going to hold off putting the front end & exhaust back on until I have dropped the sump. Some male chicken sucker over tightened the sump plug, going to helicoil that, clean out the oil pick up and sump.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

My pick up was immaculate when I had the sump off for welding lately.

Regular oil changes must do something.

Sump was filthy though.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.