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LR5V
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Duplicate from other thread  -

Well Box is off, to do this I had to remove the pressure plate bolts through the starter motor opening, Thanks to Rich for that tip.

I managed to round out several drive shaft bolts  - couldn't get them undone, so I had to drag the long right drive shaft out with the box.

Had to grind off the plate to get a puller on

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And off

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Cant work out what got into the spline of the plate I could pick some of it out but other stuff is so well wedged in I cast pick it out.  I cleaned the input shaft with a wire brush and ran a fine screwdriver along each groove. This is the best I can do with a magnifying picture of my new paper weight!

2hFBnU.png

Only about £30 more for a full clutch kit over just a plate, so just going to replace everything as it has all been under strain for 2 months. First thing I will do is test the plate on the input shaft

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Currently waiting on replacement Sachs clutch kit to be sent from I assume France - it is £1 more expensive than the ECP LUK rubbish - all covered in my seemingly never ending clutch thread!

Those 2 gearbox bolts at the bottom of the sump have been a complete PITA for me. I don't know if its the KAM exhaust manifold taking up a lot more space than standard, but I have to drop the manifold to take them out. As I have been playing hokey-cokey with the gearbox & sump those 2 bolts have pee-peed me off for the last time.

The weird thing is the tread in the gearbox is full depth and open on the other side - its crying out for stud conversion, took a bit of measuring and at the cost less than £2:

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Like the bolts, I can now undo the nuts with a spanner and if the manifold is too tight the stud can be wound in from gearbox side - using 5mm allen key head - to get the nut off  - no more dropping the manifold. 

Original bolts are 8.8 tensile, couldn't find 8.8 grub screws and nuts, these are 14.9 and going to stud conversion I have greater clamping force.

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New clutch kit arrived yesterday, same kit as I used before, testing the plate, it slid onto the shaft perfectly.

Today was Dry, so pulled my finger out and got the Box back in by myself, I nearly gave up but sat down and had a think, visualising the 15-20 degree angle it needed to go in at from the front, the hardest part was getting the Right hand drive flange past the engine block. It was nearly there so used the long bolts on the starter motor in the rear top and bottom front holes to stop the box falling out. this lined the box up pretty well took a bit of a shake and it slid into place as a normal gearbox should. Some foreign object must has got into the spline in the previous attempt. I was unable to start the engine as the starter is going slow - may have fried it trying to start in gear. or the battery is low on charge, too tired to check just now.

Unfortunately I cant drop it back onto its wheels as I need to do another job - the sump was my first  sealant type one I have ever done, so I need to drop the new oil and take the sump off again. Think I may have not used enough sealant, all the research I did said don't use too much as it can drop into the sump  - any guidance on size of bead needed?  

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Friday - 

Checked the voltage across the battery terminals.... 11 volts is no bueno! -battery out for a charge, back in and engine fired up straight away.

Saturday -

Tackled the sump this morning, the oil was brand new Synta Platnum put in after the first go at putting the sump on. the intention was to re-use the oil & completely cleaned out the tub I use for oil changes.

Dropping the oil it looked a bit cloudy, when I got the sump off I could see why, some how water was in my sump, a weird grey sludge under the oil. I had noticed the exhaust was steamy after the rebuild, just thought it was condensation, this something it had never done before - and there was no gunk in the bottom of the sump when I took it off before, so this water got into the engine whilst it was up on axle stands with the front panel off - Bonnet not secure on my driveway 7 meters from the road. Not sure if its paranoia, but after the clutch and now this, I am starting to suspect interference from a third party, will have to go through my CCTV footage.

Any way the sump is back on, I am giving it till tomorrow morning for the sealant to set before putting new oil in. fitted the studs to the sump, they worked really well:

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Lupo is now back on 4 wheels again, last things I did today was clean the battery cable connection at the alternator, failed miserably to swap out the 810 for 800 belt, settled on slackening the pivot bolt and pull alternator tight by hand, will keep a close eye on the battery voltage

Sunday - 

Oil in, engine started, clutch working yey! - but reverse tricky to get, will work on that

Freak weather here in Edinburgh

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Then fast thaw

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Lupo now moved into the safety of the garage - Currently it has comical wheel alignment, booked in for alignment and MOT Friday Afternoon

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My continuing tale of misfortune is still going strong... I knew it would fail MOT on a few things, silly stuff I could get the garage to fix with an alignment, I had asked for that to be done before the test, they came back saying all they could do was tracking, not camber. Camber was so mad when the brake test occurred it was throwing the Lupo out of the machine! - they had to do a road test instead.

The most concerning fail was emissions - its running very rich  - maybe the lambda pocket is reducing the amount of oxygen it sees, but not able to see how much - if I take the pocket away I may well get CEL again. Garage said it may just need a really good run. Other issues were fuel filter loose - I forgot to cable tie it back into position and a top mount worn, the one area of suspension I did not touch!

Got the Lupo back, took it down the road to another place for alignment, drove it for a bit to see how it was, the good news is the LSD really makes a difference, I can feel both wheels gripping even in a straight line. 

Lightened flywheel - well I didn't notice much difference as I was pussy-footing it about, maybe there was too much resistance on the crank in the sump... yes my head gasket is definitely blown, checking the oil level its about 3 inches higher than it should be and I kept having to top up the coolant, initially put in 3 litres and have topped up with another 3. Oh and as a final slap in the face, the oil leak at the sump is still there - suspect I dislodged the seal on the rear crank when I first tried to take the sump off. 

With so much to do around the engine I am thinking engine out, its got to be easier than gearbox out. May even rebuild one of the spare engine bottom ends.

 

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Personally, if I was sure the head gasket was out then I would put some steel seal through it, enjoy it for a bit and then do it in the summer.

Maybe buy another engine and go down the route you want to......

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Thanks guys - its not going to burn through 1.5 litres of water in less than a mile, there is no carpets to conceal heater core leak, it seems to be a major leak -so it just drops straight to the bottom of the sump in one big lump.

The engine runs well - so its not burst into the combustion chambers - it must have broken through into a low pressure oil way - if it was high pressure the oil would be in the expansion tank.

The thing is the old radiator was leaking, the coolant system was not pressurising for a while - new rad, extra pressure looking for a weak spot, found it in the head gasket.

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Done some thinking, the issue is there is at least 3 litres of coolant in the sump. I am concerned my brief drive may have allowed the oil pump to have sucked up water instead of oil and damaged the engine.  Since owning the Lupo I have not really done any serious mileage maybe only 50 to 100 miles a month. I have hardly put any miles on what I was told was a recently rebuilt head - therefore my trust in the PO's work is very low.

My plan is to eradicate as much of the PO work from the Lupo as I can and get my spare engine rebuilt -

  • Bottom end by a garage, new bearings & rings
  • Cylinder head - ported & polished, mainly on exhaust side, inlet a quick tidy open ports out to match gasket, will rebuild this bit myself
  • This leaves the hot cams in their carrier... unfortunately this needs to come from the current engine - I was going to "just swap the cams" but after researching on here it is a complete mare of a job with special tools, just got to hope there was no oil starvation.

Already invested in all the required Victor Reinz gaskets, Gates Cam belt kit, new oil pump - going to ask for Goetze rings unless there is something better out there?

Rear crank seal with timing ring - I have read this needs a very expensive special tool to install is that correct?

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On 11/26/2018 at 5:37 PM, Rich said:

Get a bit of pipe and remove the oil cooler from the equation and see what happens.

Actually, when i was connecting up the Mocal cooler I was thinking of deleting the cooler entirely, what a shame I didnt at the time!

On 11/26/2018 at 7:02 PM, Sausage said:

Definitely worth bypassing the oil cooler as a test, but usually you end up with oil in the water header tank as good sign that has gone. Take it off and make sure water and oil side arent talking to each other.

I am still of the opinion that oil is a much greater pressure, it will get into the coolant and pressurise the coolant system - but as the header has emptied itself so quickly it is hard to tell.

On 11/26/2018 at 7:15 PM, Rich said:

I just find it hard that the hg has gone, admittedly since the head has been off this is more plausible than if left alone.

Head may have been partially blown for a while - the radiator was leaking stopping pressure to build up, so not getting any worse, I was not sure how much water it was using due to this.

Long and short of it I dont want to risk running the engine any more than necessary, currently the only thing precious is the cams. I am tempted to hook up the cooler to my compressor pumping in one side and a shrader valve in the other to see if it will hold a reasonable pressure.

Been busy on Ebay, head and bottom end gaskets, head bolts, rear seal & timing belt kit including water pump:

8PruHD.jpg 

Spoke to a recommended garage about building the bottom end, I was confident in their ability, but the time to do the task and ultimately cost were higher than I was expecting, I would rather put that money towards the possible engine work. So I am going to stick with the original plan of rebuilding the spare engine - assuming the internals are good, it should just be new standard sized bearings.

But due to the uncertainty I need to strip the fast road cams off the current engine to inspect. Need special tools  - I have found the inlet cam locking tool, but for the VVT pulley I will need one of these T10073 tools - any one got one to sell or lend?:

Image result for T10073

Edited by LR5V
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