LR5V

Probably with a lot of lead! Dont know how much metal they have - understand they machine off the lip and barrel to accept the split dish and barrel form behind, seen quite a few 80's 90's OEM wheels tarted up like this, the Teddies are a extreme but poor example, early smaller rims are ideal leaving space for the dishes:

The stub axle set is similar to Mk4 Golf, I had seen a thread where someone had removed their mk4 stub axle without touching the bearing - I tried to do this on the Lupo, but you can only get good access to 1 bolt, partial access to 1 more, leaving 2 you cant get at - afraid its still bearing off. if its any help, this is my spacer before powder coating: IIRC its the RH one, the non rusty area is covered by the stub axle - From this I can confirm the order is splash guard, spacer and then stub axle, all bolted together by bolts in the green. There are spring dowels that keep the stub axle to the spacer- iirc only to in the right hand holes That surprised me! - have you been Frape'd?

Hope this works out, I get the feeling it will be a good @mk2 restoration its a good idea, I may be wrong, ignoring the spacers behind the stub axle, I thought the Gti beam was wider - I can measure mine in the day light

Grey cable ties look oem to me and the ecu can be re-flashed via the VCDS port, so the reason its flapping around may not be bench remap -But considering the care your Lupo has had in the past, I would be surprised if it was actually secured! When you get VCDS you need this info on measuring blocks: https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/

According to how many left they think there is 550 on the road and 250 Sorn'd - much of the latter by @Rich The 150 apparently been scrapped and broken up - but his doesn't sound right

Yes - you should be fine without guards - Your method is correct up till 5. The splash guard is behind the stub axle, but covering the bolts holding the stub axle on is is the wheel bearing. If you are lucky the bearing will slide off, unlucky and the bearings stick on the shaft and like to gut themselves as the get removed using a puller. When I did mine, the bearings came apart and I re-assembled them, at the MOT they listed loose rear bearings in the comments -I now need new bearings Ideally you need new bearings to go on, also your stub axle, spacer and beam will be crusty, consider wire brushing and painting - I rebuilt my entire beam all parts powder coated

But the info given by the OP was: If every sensor has been replaced and apparently working what else is there: It is not a definitive answer, but it fits with the info given. interested to hear what is causing this.

Afraid the ends are not replaceable, and the clips are problematic I had to replace the one from the tank not too hard to do, brand new last year it was around £30

I don't think injectors are causing over fuelling, they are being told to give more fuel than required, sounds like the O2 sensor is seeing too much oxygen, to balance this out its telling the injectors to give more fuel - you have checked for air leaks? crusty vacuum pipes? manifold leaks? Yes, the injectors don't dismantle - professional service is proper cleaning inside and out with new seals. If you are feeling brave you can clean them internally with carb cleaner - you tube has people doing this, you need to activate the injector and squirt cleaner through the injector. -this isn't as good as pro job, but no wait to get them back.

No problem fella - probably missed in the MOT as it's in the boot. Battery gives of hydrogen when it gets charged - but if over charged it gives off hydrogen sulphide not a big deal in an engine bay, but is if its in the cabin. Just went looking for a PN, but no luck - its a bent piece of metal rod that slots into an opening at the front, sits in the groove around the battery and only one bolt -that you can see in my pic above - at the eye shown below:

Whats wrong with your current injectors? They can be cleaned and serviced

Sorry if I am reading between the lines here, but it is the battery box, is your battery not bolted down? It should have a bracket and bolt + the vent goes to the battery, tube connects onto a 90 degree elbow that is usually included with the terminal covers on new batteries: If its not bolted down, it would be an MOT fail as it could move around in a n accident, short out and start a fire.

Look into custom stainless exhaust, you get exactly what you want, price isn't that much more than off the shelf

If you need to change engine oil, consider engine oil flush, I find it usually clears gummed up hydraulic valve lifters.

The debris on top of the filter is normal, they just find their way in there under the scuttle. Water under filter, As Rich says - blocked drains from scuttle into wheel arch. Gurgling Heater may be trapped air