LR5V

Nice - have you got the set of shims? - actually I think the diff comes with them

Just found this on Race cars direct - fully built and running cup car, recent restored running car with spare engine and wheels for a reasonable €10,950 - It makes the UK cars rolling shell price ridiculous https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/110512/original-abt-cup-lupo-n0-38

Good work - nice unit

There was a recent thread with loose column:

Brake compensator is there to stop the rear wheels locking - in brake situation weight shifts to the front making it easier to lock up the rear wheels - the valve reduces the braking force to the rear brakes. mechanical valve, activated by how high the body lifting changing the angle of the beam I suspect the issue is if you drop the suspension without adjusting (I assume there is adjustment) to the angle the valve activates it may not respond as it thinks it is loaded, you end up with full braking force going to rear wheels - possibly locking them up as though you were doing a hand brake turn

To be honest poly bushes just slide in with a little bit of encouragement - with no real need for special tools There are model specific removal kits, but I would go for something more universal - have a look for kits similar to this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/26pcs-Universal-Press-Pull-Sleeve-Kit-Remove-Install-Bushes-Bearings-Garage-Tool/382568256495?epid=11023938932&hash=item5912d853ef:g:ZDcAAOSwXAFdv5kH once done, you can add it to your armoury or punt it on Gumtree to get most of your money back. You can fashion a puller out of M10 threaded rod, nuts and sockets, but in these strange times unless - you already have them it may be hard to get your hands on them

Yes - goodwood is a very cool place - several years ago I made the long trip down to revival, I need to do the FoS! Voluntary brake fluid replacement - fella you need better planning for isolation! It could be worse - I thought I was being smart, I got new suspension for the Mk5 and a good few other things to keep me tinkering... Only for the wife's car to die in the driveway - it already had engine wear that caused skipped timing, its an engine out repair. The drive has a slope, the road outside has a high crown - its also an auto - it cant be moved by hand - we are going to scrap it or trade it in on scrappage scheme - but when will the dealers open? So the upshot is - I can't get the golf into the drive to fit the new stuff and a double whammy its blocking the Lupo in the garage, if we end up still stuck for summer, and the big "if" is also good weather, I cant even fix the Lupo sill!

I can’t say mine used to do that - Was it doing this before the new ball joints? have you tried isolating the side that’s doing it? - find street with speed cushions, only bump the same side leaving the other level There may be something floating around in your CV catching the outer cup - I would suggest full strip out and clean, rebuild with new grease and boots - horrible job, but people have a lot of time on their hand recently

Welcome - have a look for Polo central locking wiring charts, much of the components are shared, trace wire colours from door locks to confirm they are the same. what engine conversion has been done to your Lupo?

Welcome - Not experienced this myself, but usually the switch is the weak link -has your friend checked it is working? if it is the motor - look for similar age Polo one. While you are in there a new cable and the plastic clips is a good idea

if it's the same lady, she was a long way from home - Edinburgh

Ah, makes sense now, seen a few bend, weakest part is the steering arm. They go by a few names, all will bring up items on ebay: bearing carrier -this is the most accurate description, knuckle, hub -this can be confused with below Sorry, that's a drive flange ...that sometimes gets called a Hub... that gets confused with bearing carriers

@mk2 - I was thinking the same thing @lupo1.0se. - when my wife and older Neil our both first saw my Lupo they both individually said “what a nice shopping car!”

sorry, still not making sense - Bearing carrier? - the only stub axles are bolted onto the rear axle

Being driven by a lady in her 60-70's It was a great sight to see, it was a bit rough, but not much wrong - I was tempted to go say don't get rid, going up in value and that they are pretty rare... but in these weird times it didn't seem right.

I suspect you mean Control arm instead of stub axle - Great to see this back on the road

Window seals are not perfect - there should be a sealing membrane behind the door cards that gets destroyed from maintenance - common VW problem not just on the Lupo

Elsawin is VW workshop software.... not a seller

Was it running before the timing belt change? it Seems odd that the crank sensor to wait till now to fail - checked the connector is plugged in properly? How did you do the timing belt? You knew to turn the engine over twice to check the timing, if you were a tooth or even a couple of teeth out the engine would run, but not well. Assuming it’s a 16v did you use a proper tool to lock the cams for the small belt? Did you mark the old belt and factory marks and copy them to the new belt counting teeth?

Looks like a removable tow hitch - hopefully whoever installed it did a proper job - yes, completely daft with a trailer, more likely used with bike rack, look for a light bar plug under the bumper or in the boot. People love the pop out windows, Mk2 Golfs had a kit called Happich that sell for daft money, I would love to swap them on my Gti, but they are heavier glass and removing the old glass a pain.

Or worse - a tow hitch - holes drilled in the chassis and scotch blocks in the loom. Thats my favourite colour for non Gti Lupo’s

Try these for starters, with engine up to temperature: Cooling Fan not switching on - faulty thermostatic switch or wiring thermostat jammed closed - feel the coolant pipes going to the radiator, they should be hot sediment in radiator - remove front grille and reach down running your hand over the radiator, should be consistently warm all, if it’s cold in areas it is likely to be sediment, this reduces the amount of cooling capacity. Unless your windows don’t open - just keep the heating on till you get it sorted.

Looks like the on - Just check the thread size is correct. Why do I know this? this is on of the lies in the Haynes manual for the Mk3 - it gives a higher torque value for the earlier constant larger diameter stud, strangely it sheared and I had to order another! Good luck with the search

No I don’t have one, but If you do this...the pulley stud you need to add is an off the shelf one used on an ABF, iirc it’s the tensioner pulley stud, it’s a bit odd because it’s got 2 thread diameters - read a few people getting them made up by engineering workshops, dread to think how much they paid.

The joy of Momo is once you have one you can swap wheels at the drop of a hat, used ones usually go cheap, gumtree and Facebook are good hunting grounds. first Momo was a 320 Tuner, it was good, 300 team is a lot better