mk2

Here goes again to keep the thread alive! A question.... Why does the lupo (& arosa) alternator have an overrun clutch built into the pulley? (Actually I'm not 100% sure I know why, but I think...)

looks like you've broken the plug to start with. you'll need to replace that section back to the plug on the side of the steering column. no idea where that wire's from tho...

ditto from me

wanna post it on here for us all

easy. lots of bright light while working. do NOT scratch the selector shaft!

you can make an improvised tool with two pieces of tape measure.... slide it in the gap, hook and pull out. you have to create a barb that hooks over.

yeah, the clutch isn't disengaging....

yeah, and you can top up the level through the speedo sensor, so you dont even need to remove the undertray

if its a slow drip, then it'd be easier to just top up once a year... just wipe it well before the mot. The leak comes from the shaft seal that selects the gear. it's a cheap seal, but replacing it needs some clever improvisiing to pull it out from outside the box. usually you push it out from inside.

what is hydro dipping...?!

it's the supply or the return up behind the light. check the selector switch action...

anyone remember the ancient but amusing system in the late 80's polo bread van. fixed a few of them in the last couple of years. just after the engine starts, the oil pressure hasn't reached the min pressure for the pressure switch, but the engine was running (alternator light was off with ignition on combination). so while the oil pressure is building the buzzer is going off! beeeeeeeep. every time you start. beeeeeep.

pinking/ticking sound getting quite loud now and only when on power, silent on overrun. just rebuilt the head with all new hydraulic tappets. still making that tappet sound. So only thing left is to pull the engine out. It has to be a broken ring. but compression is still good in all cyls. slightly down on no4. suspect no4 is gauging away at the liner/bore. breather or blowby still very low. i shall bung the spare engine in.

easiest/cheapest way to do an engine conversion is to buy a totalled car (polo/golf/skoda). get what you want and box all the bits up. sell the scrap and sell the bits. break even. and have new running engine/box in Lupo. only drawback is time. lots of time.

try some silicone spray lubricant in the felt window channel? my only guess is that there is a kink in the channel, where it's crushing the glass. the glass should slide up and down with little more than finger push effort. there is a load sensor built into the power supply circuit to the motor. when the motor current goes too high before the top end stop (in situations such as where an arm is in the way), the circuit reverses power briefly then stops...

which one? hydrocarbons, CO, smoke...? if it's the valve seals, flushing could make it worse. if rings, better! a good steady run as suggested may help. could just try changing the air filter.

I just noticed one of my " Füllstück für Frontklappe " is missing... it's the foam air seal on the drivers side of the engine bay between the wing and bonnet. part number 6x0823729a. Anyone got one or a pair in decent condition? very light to post.

any new news?

that's 100% experience talking there. i like it. none of that sort of thing ever written in manuals :)

well knock me down with a feather. absolutely. nice one skezza. i'd have never ever believed it.

very true! especially the house light fittings. 100,000h life. yeah right! maybe 5000. just a con to make us spend more money on light bulbs (leds).

it's a LED, not a bulb from memory, so unlikely to go. software controlled. i wonder if it it's just been deactivated..... if you or other family member had ever taken it in for a service, chances are someone has plugged in a diagnostic thing. at the same time, instead of clearing a fault or service indicator, they may have accidentally turned off the "show check engine light at power up" function. i don't know how to do it on a lupo, but it's easy enough on many other vdubs.

to check it's the motor 100%, just supply power directly to it. one way +- is window up, the other -+ is window down. don't leave power connected as you'll definitely burn it out.

i hope you get what you're asking, but bear in mind most people who buy a 17 year old small car are new drivers, with a low budget. you might get around 1k for it... most 1.0s go for about £400. If it were a GTi or an SDI you'd easily get your asking price in that condition.

correct! your turn matt... And I thought this one would run and run. D'oh.