mk2

Sounds like ignition or fuelling problem. Compression faults become very obvious at idle. At running revs (over 2000ish RPM), there's not enough time for the gases to leak away, so it runs almost normally, but just down on power a bit. And usually the occasional 'chuff' sound out of the tail pipe. By the symptoms, I'd guess there's a misfire caused by either missing spark or missing fuel caused by an injector not squirting fuel. If you get a cheap diagnostic thing, it'll tell you lots. Bluetooth that connects to a phone is the easiest.

Get bushes. Branded ones...

More like ignition, not compression... especially if 1&4. Sounds like you need a second opinion.

Nice, but it looks like the inside edges of the rear arches were masked off. That's where they always go... if you can get a jug of the stuff, may be worth hand painting the stuff on, just on that sharp edge, inside the arch. I derusted and had to respray mine the other day as the rust was beginning to go further than I like. Oh, while thinking about it, check in the roof channels- you need to remove the filler strips to have a good look. Many cars rust there because during manufacture, the automated sprayer missed the outer edges. Both my lupos had the same rust spot. I just cleaned it up and sealed with underbody spray (waxoyl). Can't see it once the fillers are back in. how much does that service cost in Canada?

Unusual for both 1 & 4 to be low. Opposite ends of the engine too.... r u sure?

Don't forget Taobao... self adhesive 12V "LED strip" is what you're looking for. Awful stuff where the glue stops working once they warm up. Then falls off. i wipe the glue off with thinners then use clear stixall. Also, if you're handy with a soldering iron, cut the stuff, then solder a +ve 12v feed one end, with the -ve feed on the other end. You get more even lighting if using the full 5m, than having both + & - on one end. You can get it on ebay too. never heard of banggood or ioffer... i'll have to check them out.

Have you ever worked on one? I've never ever seen one.... Been reading about how they cut out while cruising. unusual, but still, for an early 90s car, they managed 75+mpg. impressive. By the way @Rich, I'm now getting silly quotes for 3L steering wheels. Like 190 euros! A month ago there was a thing on german TV how everyone now wants 3L wheels on their polos and mk2s. How annoying. I'll wait for the frenzy to die down then have another go. I know someone in Slovakia- they might know a source for 3L bits. Courier costs are the same.

It is possible with most modern vdub (renault) auto boxes to make them power shift. But you need to dump the original gearbox ecu. In one of my Mk2's i fitted a 096 box with a home made shifter. The beauty is that all shifts can be controlled by solenoids. So electronic... the modulator adjusts the smoothness of the shift, which is controlled by a PWM signal. Ok, so power shifting like with a dsg will kill the clutches but it's fab fun.

Yeah, alright, I'll have to owe you a beer. I'll have it. I'll PM you...

pics FYI... you can see the tab that separated. Also thought I'd pull the elctronics cover off to see what's going on under there. OEM- beautifully simple. Chinese copy- what the heck? it doesn't need to be that complicated to be a regulator. OMG! Also a pic of the back that is visible- not a lot. And looking down behind the slam panel. I couldn't undo the big Pozi screw that holds the dust cover on- way too tight, but it is possible to carefully bend the cover out of the way so you can get to the three screws holding the regulator in place.

Read the definitive gearbox thread... Answers to just about everything gearbox related is there to be discovered.

Ok, so sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. The syncro rings cannot spin up or down to match the selected gear as theres too much friction. Pedal box. Read the gearbox thread...

The first thing i'd try once located, is block the vapour feed from the canister into the vacuum side of the engine. It could be that the purge solenoid has jammed open, or is sticky. I generally bung a bolt in there and forget it. Blocked = no problems ever.

Shifter or linkages ok? Does the gear shift feel ok?

The tdi and 3L are pretty similar aren't they? Have never played with a 1.2...

In that case, keep everything as close to standard electrically as poss.... the mechanical stuff wont worry the ecu.

Yeah, just go for it. You keep existing ecu, but use resistors to make the ecu think ignition side is still there. = no codes. fit it, tweek timing. Use a knock sensor if you can. Sorted.

Superchargers are easier. Less metalwork. No nasty exhausts to mess with.

Two screws... Mmmm. Easier than an air filter.

Ok, I'll get a few and split the shipping costs... what else is worth thinking about? just bought a german passenger seat fabric, as mine was getting a bit tatty (driver's seat here). (30 euros)

Yeah there's one in N germany right now 88k km. drives perfectly. they just want rid of for 300 euros. No TUV. Corrosion on drive shafts, rear beam, exhaust and coils. Yeah. Big deal...

Ok, i get it. Not noticed the subtle difference at the join between the wing and the bumper before. Seems like too much work for the mo to change everything. I do like the 3L front grille though. I'll swap just the steering wheel assembly then. I might get a couple from germany. Can you believe they only go for about 15 euros plus 12 euros shipping. I don't get why in germany they scrap what we'd generally class as reasonably good nick motors. I mean come on, surface rust on a rear beam or springs, and light corrosion on brake lines and drive shafts... that isn't dangerous. A slightly worn door hinge. Stuck electric windows? TUV failures?

Nah, the copper open ring mounting to the neg terminal. When you tighten up the bolt that clamps it, it strains the edge causing the plastic to get a hairline crack. Then moisture and salt spray get in there causing an electrolytic reaction between the copper and the aluminium. (Like how a sacrificial anode works on a steel hulled ship). The ali corrodes away and separates from the copper. Open circuit. Fail. Game over.

What's happening to the black lupo?

Andrew my alternator was different in the end. It was a bosch one with an oval plug. Your's is square i think. All fixed. I've taken some pics. There's a design flaw in the regulator which in time will cause every unit to fail.