mk2

Don't forget Taobao... self adhesive 12V "LED strip" is what you're looking for. Awful stuff where the glue stops working once they warm up. Then falls off. i wipe the glue off with thinners then use clear stixall. Also, if you're handy with a soldering iron, cut the stuff, then solder a +ve 12v feed one end, with the -ve feed on the other end. You get more even lighting if using the full 5m, than having both + & - on one end. You can get it on ebay too. never heard of banggood or ioffer... i'll have to check them out.

Have you ever worked on one? I've never ever seen one.... Been reading about how they cut out while cruising. unusual, but still, for an early 90s car, they managed 75+mpg. impressive. By the way @Rich, I'm now getting silly quotes for 3L steering wheels. Like 190 euros! A month ago there was a thing on german TV how everyone now wants 3L wheels on their polos and mk2s. How annoying. I'll wait for the frenzy to die down then have another go. I know someone in Slovakia- they might know a source for 3L bits. Courier costs are the same.

It is possible with most modern vdub (renault) auto boxes to make them power shift. But you need to dump the original gearbox ecu. In one of my Mk2's i fitted a 096 box with a home made shifter. The beauty is that all shifts can be controlled by solenoids. So electronic... the modulator adjusts the smoothness of the shift, which is controlled by a PWM signal. Ok, so power shifting like with a dsg will kill the clutches but it's fab fun.

Yeah, alright, I'll have to owe you a beer. I'll have it. I'll PM you...

pics FYI... you can see the tab that separated. Also thought I'd pull the elctronics cover off to see what's going on under there. OEM- beautifully simple. Chinese copy- what the heck? it doesn't need to be that complicated to be a regulator. OMG! Also a pic of the back that is visible- not a lot. And looking down behind the slam panel. I couldn't undo the big Pozi screw that holds the dust cover on- way too tight, but it is possible to carefully bend the cover out of the way so you can get to the three screws holding the regulator in place.

Read the definitive gearbox thread... Answers to just about everything gearbox related is there to be discovered.

Ok, so sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. The syncro rings cannot spin up or down to match the selected gear as theres too much friction. Pedal box. Read the gearbox thread...

The first thing i'd try once located, is block the vapour feed from the canister into the vacuum side of the engine. It could be that the purge solenoid has jammed open, or is sticky. I generally bung a bolt in there and forget it. Blocked = no problems ever.

Shifter or linkages ok? Does the gear shift feel ok?

The tdi and 3L are pretty similar aren't they? Have never played with a 1.2...

In that case, keep everything as close to standard electrically as poss.... the mechanical stuff wont worry the ecu.

Yeah, just go for it. You keep existing ecu, but use resistors to make the ecu think ignition side is still there. = no codes. fit it, tweek timing. Use a knock sensor if you can. Sorted.

Superchargers are easier. Less metalwork. No nasty exhausts to mess with.

Two screws... Mmmm. Easier than an air filter.

Ok, I'll get a few and split the shipping costs... what else is worth thinking about? just bought a german passenger seat fabric, as mine was getting a bit tatty (driver's seat here). (30 euros)

Yeah there's one in N germany right now 88k km. drives perfectly. they just want rid of for 300 euros. No TUV. Corrosion on drive shafts, rear beam, exhaust and coils. Yeah. Big deal...

Ok, i get it. Not noticed the subtle difference at the join between the wing and the bumper before. Seems like too much work for the mo to change everything. I do like the 3L front grille though. I'll swap just the steering wheel assembly then. I might get a couple from germany. Can you believe they only go for about 15 euros plus 12 euros shipping. I don't get why in germany they scrap what we'd generally class as reasonably good nick motors. I mean come on, surface rust on a rear beam or springs, and light corrosion on brake lines and drive shafts... that isn't dangerous. A slightly worn door hinge. Stuck electric windows? TUV failures?

Nah, the copper open ring mounting to the neg terminal. When you tighten up the bolt that clamps it, it strains the edge causing the plastic to get a hairline crack. Then moisture and salt spray get in there causing an electrolytic reaction between the copper and the aluminium. (Like how a sacrificial anode works on a steel hulled ship). The ali corrodes away and separates from the copper. Open circuit. Fail. Game over.

What's happening to the black lupo?

Andrew my alternator was different in the end. It was a bosch one with an oval plug. Your's is square i think. All fixed. I've taken some pics. There's a design flaw in the regulator which in time will cause every unit to fail.

Can't you just fill the indicator holes then use a 3L grille? Never seen one for real, so might be a dumb question... wings are different. Amazing. Material yes (ali instead of steel i think?), but shape...?!

Kinda misleading title, but trying to keep it short. i want to fit a 3L steering wheel and front 'grille' / indicators to my SDI. I was looking for a Gti wheel, but they're hens teeth because my poverty spec wheel is very rough. I also have a small crack in my front grille that has been annoying me for ages. Anyone know if the stock 3L steering wheel and airbag assembly (basically a complete stering wheel ) is a straight swap to a regular SDI? Same spline? Same mounting back boss? Same airbag connection? Same clearance to steering column housing? Same question for the front grille and indicators. Does that go straight on? Are the indicator mounts the same? Are the light bulb sockets/connections the same? Do the little plastic locating tabs fit and are they in the same positions...?

What's it for?

Looks like a breather vapour separator, but not sure as i haven't worked on this model... @Rich what d'ya reckon?

There was a recall for cracked vacuum brake pipe ends... across the entire vdub range around '99 era i think (found out a year ago). If air is being sucked in elsewhere, a map/maf sensor will give a correct reading, but obviously wrong.... on a mk2 i once had a misfire, but at idle only. Drove me nuts. Ran sweet as most of the time. The vacuum pipe to the brakes was on cyl 4 inlet duct. No problem. But in this case the short rubber hose joining the vacuum pipe to the manifold had a tiny almost invisible split. This allowed air in, which dliuted down the mixture to cyl 4. So no. 4 misfired because there wasn't enough fuel in the mix which entered the cylinder. Too lean..... but once the manifold pressure rose, under load, the tiny amount of air made no difference, since 99% of the mix came from the carb. All the symptoms suggested headgasket failure, leaky exhaust valve or a hot running spark plug (it was paler than the others).