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Prole

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    Bath, Wiltshire

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    Lupo gti

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  1. So drove to the MOT passed, no coolant light on the way but come on the way back. Slightly pressured, come back up to the min line once opened, but settled back down to 1cm under the min line. But here's a few pics of the leaks. Wanting to look into these more but off to Germany on the weekend, so going to need to put it on the back burner for 2 weeks.
  2. All done to spec and then tested torque over the whole head finding the tightest bolt and tightened the slightly slack ones to about the same torque setting. Head was skimmed, crack tested and the block was tested flat an prepped properly. Using oe pipe but ordered a eBay pipe just for the seal (didn't use that pipe as the quality is terrible) What I'm thinking, me an a mate did the block. I had to nip out and he finished putting it in an doing the belts. Asked him said he put in the seal correctly etc. Didn't add any extra sealant though
  3. Yep a small leak, noticed coolant on the bottom of the sump (not on the ground), but the coolant line going to the oil cooler/heater was slightly perished and squirting coolant (when pressurised) about so assumed it was that, I've changed the clamp to a torque clamp (think that sorted it, but maybe not) But it was the garage told me it was around the water pump when I went for the MOT. The expansion tank is draining pretty quick, but that's a mixture of air getting in and coolant loss way more noticeable after a drive when it's pressurised. I put it down to like you said an air lock, but not to sure now. An thought the same at first, an I too built on a sloped drive . Lower rad hose wasn't getting hot and also with the out from the heater matrix so pumped it though and is heating up as it should. An on another note, when building my radiator fan died, blown fuse (changed it) and then got my other radiator temp sensor an got a lighter to it an the motor had gone. Had a spare fan tested that all good. But now got a feeling my other fan has also bit the bullet. Is there anything that may cause this as the fuse is fine.
  4. Like above rebuilt my gti block recently and getting the coolant level dropping and air getting in the system, causing a overheat issue. Done everything on the motor all new, a friend said did I seal the water pump. As in the use of gasket sealant as a precaution. Could it be a dud water pump or could I have a crack on that area of the block? This block had a simular issue before being rebuilt but that was head and a cam cover being gone and air or exhaust gasses getting in the coolant.
  5. So some more homework and seem right, swag is part of the febi bilstein group, hence same part numbers and probably the same build quality (lets be honest I've heard things about febi over the years. Then looking on the sit it's listed as a polo 3 and loop gti part. Just on any other site like auto doc etc that you filter under vehicle they are listed as not compatible, but about £6 cheaper per rod. May just be a cheaper alternative for basicly the same thing from what I see
  6. I've purchased some new rods, went for the febi's 322mm as read here that they're the correct length for the gti. Upon receiving them the company sent some SWAG 322mm rods (which were cheaper) their own site says not compatible with the gti, same part numbers. I'm assuming there for the polo gti but don't know if the steering column thread size is the same as the lupo. Don't want to open the box, to measure them up, as this may void return warranties. Any info would be greatful
  7. Wondering is the original owner of this lupo still on the forums, after some info on the bumper conversion. Like is that a mk5 or a mk6 r32 style rep, the lip around the splitter is that moulded or is that a trait of the donor bumper. Planning on doing o e for awhile and this is the best made example ive seen, an now I have a donor car I'd thought I'd get one made up
  8. When you say at high revs is that down to the vvt I assume? Just keeping it stock for now, an reverted back to base tune last year 👍
  9. So finally got my build going and stripped my AFH block and sorted the head lapped and new seals etc and going to prep the gti block in the next few weeks. But if anyone can help on the ignition side, I'm planning on keeping my gti ecu as I don't have a afh one, an also keep the gti ignition (so no afh dizzy). So here we go. 1. Can I keep the ignition and fab a plate or something to cover the dizzy place on the afh head and mount the coils to said plate? 2. Inlet manifold... Can I keep the gti manifold and throttle body or use the AFH mani and gti throttle body. My goal is to keep the drive by wire and not cable. 3. Some say you can't drill the block but I've heard different if your using carbide drill bits, shall I stick with a custom bolt for the pulley or look into drilled? After reliability really. I will be keeping the factory EFI as I've got to budget welding work etc. So I'm after making it plug an play (which I know it's not so simple). I've read up plenty of forums but if I can get these answered it'll be a massive help
  10. You referring to using the nodiz?? If yes that's no problem and what I've been in discussion with a friend about in regards to ecu and resistors. I'm assuming no way of doing it on the base ecu without using a external ignition ecu?? The motor won't be back on the road to early next year, redone the whole underside powder coated and new polys throughout except for sus top mounts and the rear. Got my afh though a friend for 120 complete 90k miles and looking on a port an polished head with piper cams for 400ish but haven't decided on that yet may grab it as the piper re profiled cams are 250 on there ones so an extra for a fully rebuilt head for 200 isn't bad. Just want it done an over with haha wishbi never started
  11. As in title doing a AFH conversion for my gti as the AVY has taken a turn for the worse and I would still like to keep coil packs rather than going with the distributor. Down the line I'm thinking of running a nodiz, for when I get the itb's going. Blanking plate and use the gti's coils etc. Ive also got crank sensors etc to worry about, but can I use the sensor from my AVY on the AFH? But can someone give me a heads up as I'm thinking of doing the ignition straight away an I'd like to get an idea of the best or most logical way about it. Not a engine guru and won't be doing the work myself, a good friend is before anyone asks
  12. I've got my rust treatment done on the arches and now to deal with the bumper, planning on getting the gti smoothed and a new lick of paint on the front end. But then I've seen this bumper pop up on eBay advertising lips but what is it??? An is it possible to even get hold of one anymore, done plenty of searches but nothing coming up..
  13. I've got my rust treatment done on the arches and now to deal with the bumper, planning on getting the gti smoothed and a new lick of paint on the front end. But then I've seen this bumper pop up on eBay advertising lips but what is it??? An is it possible to even get hold of one anymore, done plenty of searches but nothing coming up..
  14. Taking your advice there rich never touched a starter motor before in regards to a rebuild, an have to say looks pretty simple to work on. Just got myself a new gas soldering iron recently so at least I got a reason to put it to good use. Bought a oe starter motor to work on from Facebook for 25 and a friend says jcr supplies for parts. Do you know the measurements for brushes or code that the loop gti uses??
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