mk2

Love to join in on this. I reckon @Rich myself and few of us could get the thing running by end of a weekend. I can electrics. Rich, exhaust and engine bay bits, someone else interior and someone else front and bodywork. A club lupo special! where is the car?

That'll be the fan motor. The bearings go then excessive friction causes high currents to flow and then pop goes the fuse...

How much are a pair? They look perfect for something I have an idea on... But do they still allow a return thump? As in is there still some rubber material between shock and car to avoid destroying the shock return valve?

That is the correct reaction! Very funny Seriously just LOL! it's like the flat line sound when a cardiac monitor tells you that a person's heart just stopped beating..... "oh holy carp" as you dive for the ignition switch to turn the engine off....

Anyone been or going? curious to know if worth it this year... if you go, please take lots of pics for everyone!

Dodge?

Yeah, I'm about to completely EGR block and gas flow my SDI (one of them). I'll take some pics and post a "how-to" in a week or three. There have been a few people asking how to do it. for the time being, you can simply unplug the vac hose to the egr valve and choke flap. Don't forget to block the suction off or it'll suck in loads of gunge/dust.

Ok, so no fuelling problem. Good. So engine is fine. I'd say it's almost dead cert something that only happens at idle. So that narrows it down to air leak, dirty/iffy sensor(s), or maybe throttle body(TPS) or pedal. Hmm. Anyone else on here know what the pedal in a 1.4 sport should read? I know on my lupo it goes from 0-100%. I'd guess the same...?

What would be cool is an homage to the lupo on your new car... like a UPO reg plate.

You can't plug tubes into trees. That's just plain wrong. You'll be crushing rocks to get beer next! Digging cheese out of the ground? Catching money with nets... Sorry. Just realised it's all in Canada

I have no idea whats going on... Take some measurements with hot engine, not running. Test pedal. 0-100% ; TPS should follow (in theory).

Those numbers are off. The one that gets me is the load. 12% what?! And the accelerator pedal at 15% huh? Was your foot on the pedal during the measurements? At idle, it should be 0. The car is a manual (not auto box?). The label file is the right one isn't it? Its just that the numbers don't make sense to me. just had an idea... is there normal power when you give it some stick while driving? Like at highish revs 3k+? Just wondering if there's a fuel supply problem.

Yeah if VCDS report both temp sensors correct at running, then I'd say the sensor is ok. my guess is what is happening is that the ecu is struggling to keep the idle within limits. If air is getting in, it has to pull fuel to bring the rpms down. But then the O2 will pick up a lean mix exhaust- not good- then try and shut down the throttle body. But the blow by gasses (low in oxygen) will make up too much of the air portion and it'll go rich again. So the ECU will be really working to keep everything on the money. Then it'll just quit. Light on..... had an idea... when hot, what is TPS doing? Should be about 2% ish.

Yeah the bellhousing pattern is the same as quite a few dubs, except they've tilted it. The 1.9 gearboxes will bolt straight on, but i have a feeling that the length of the lupo 085 box is about 30mm shorter. Meaning it might foul the crash side member. leave the 085 as is, just tune for power not torque. And rebuild the box every 30k or so. And use really good hypoid bevel oil. I think the limit is 30mg of diesel per stroke for max torque. Once the torque starts dropping, add more fuel. Hey, just thought.... you might be able to achieve the holy grail of a dead flat torque curve. So you get to say 2k rpm and hold the pedal to the floor and the accelaration rate will be constant. Cool. Car will be sh!t off a shovel.

The interior lamp has a dimmer circuit on it. It'll probably not work. When I got one of my SDIs, it had an LED lamp in there and was rubbish. Swapped it for a regular one and it worked again. Tested the LED once out- nothing wrong with it, so I can only suspect that the dimmer driver is designed for regular power hungry filament bulbs.

Plastic cap looks like gearbox timing reference bung. Can't figure out the leak... is that under the oil cap/filler?

My hunch is an air/vacuum leak.

Mmmm. Nice.

I am happy it is working again in the UK, not many Lupos have AC. You are fortunate 👍🏻 I wish I had AC in my black Lupo. show us some more pics of you car

Was thinking about packing the lower door side hinge to move it, but the gap's already starting to be noticable. Is there a way to adjust the hinge in the door? I know adjusting the door side of the hinges adjust the in-out of the door skin compared to the wing, but don't know of a way to get the 'hang' right. When the in-out is correct and flush with the wing, all you can do is bend the window frame to get the gaps right at the top. It's amazing how easy it is to bend the window frame. Had a few people ask me how I get the fit to be perfect all round... secret's out now!

Yeah, the pin or the the loop is worn (or both). I've loosened the pin clamp bolt and tried to turn the pin to a new position, leaving the hinge but no difference. Can you get to the inner splined bolt head with the wing off? Is there some sort of access hatch/bung like on the lower one? Good to know

Noticed that my drivers door is sagging very slightly (about 3mm), so decided to adjust the body side hinges to get it back in line again. I've moved the bottom hinge towards the back of the car by a tiny amount- to the limit- but still it's not enough. Looks like I now need to move the top hinge towards the front of the car a bit. Anyone know of any tricks on the Lupo besides pulling the whole dash out to get to that single splined bolt? The other I can get to from the outside through the door gap. There has got to be an easy way. There must be...

Pics pics pics?

That's the question i asked on 4th march... is it switching on and off... answer = no. Aha!

They must use teeny tiny little brass whiskers to do the spark eroding. And being such a tiny whisker, the currents must be low, which means it must take ages to make each hole. When you look under a microscope at the holes, the bores are smooth and shiney, so they must ream them out after eroding??? Still find it amazing though.