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  1. Wondering if anyone's made any clear tail lights and I'm asking about how it went as I'm trying to make myself some from scratch (see attached pic from @noahuds24 on IG) . have you made reflectors to pass an MOT, did you buy coloured bulbs or LED strips? if the latter, what was doing the wiring like? Thanks all
  2. Hello. Can anyone tell me how to replace the parking light bulb in the front of the Seat Arosa lift. I tried, but I can't get it out. And another question. To remove the front lamps I have to disassemble the bumper?
  3. Since I got my 1.0 2005 over a year ago, when the boot is opened the interior light does not come on and when opening the driver (RHD) door the light only illuminates when the door is partially latched (however is off when the door is either open or closed). However the Passenger side operates normally. Because it is both the drivers door and boot Idk if the issue is with the switches on each door or if it is likely to be more central? Has anyone got an ideas on what might be going on? Any feedback is much appreciated
  4. Hello fellas, I recently bought a 1.4 Lupo left hand drive and I've never heard an alert when I leave the lights on when doors open/key out of the ignition The inside roof light works as meant to be (turns on when key out of the ignition or any door open) but no alert is played when I leave mediums/presence light/maximums ON with ignition OFF/no key on it Any idea how to fix this? Since I have no idea if this has anything to do with the fuses, I'll post 2 pics of the fuse box (also, tell me if something is missing please) Thanks in advance!
  5. Cambridge Lights: Great condition, very little marks £56.99 ONO (sensible offers, worst I can do is say no!) Postage can be done for free. Paypal preferred, alternatively cash on collection- near Swindon. ADVERTISED ELSWHERE SO MAY SELL QUICK. Only selling as I’m selling my Lupo 1.4s soon which is almost reverted back to standard. Any questions about the lights or my upcoming sale of my Lupo with a 12 Month MOT, please feel free to ask
  6. The drivers side headlight and brakelight bulbs have gone and I wondered if there was a guide to changing them. I took a look at the Lupo headlight and there isn't much room there, and I can't see how to easily get to the bulb. I looked on here and there is a lot of talk of GTI and xenon, but that isn't really relevant to me. Is this something I can do? Do I need to unscrew the headlight to get to the bulb? How about for the brake light?
  7. as i no longer have my lupo various parts are now for sale as follows set of 4 bbs solitude 15 inch tyres us set of 4 195 45 15 tyres all good tread approx 5mm set of front doors dragon green complete set of front doors black rh front door in black bare rear tailgate flash red rear tailgate black off of gti gti top spoiler inc brake light set of golf mk1 gti alloys trantula's ???? lupo body kit, front spoiler and side skirts tdi sport wheels set of 4 genuine lupo dog guard front panel complete with indicators one in red one in black set of golf gti recaroes front and back from a three door red inserts set of 4 seven spoke genuine vw wheels complete with center caps came from a very early passat gt, kandn style filter for sdi or tdi rear lights front lights 2 front lupo gti seats approx 40k miles battery tray wheel trays new genuine vw lupo air guides for front brakes complete new clutch kit for sdi lupo 190 mm if i find anything else will add to list located bedfordshire, will post small stuff but the bigger stuff will either be pick up or send a courier, pictures can be supplied on request
  8. Hello All, I have just bought a 1.4 TDI Lupo and i am in need of a wiring diagram so i can relocate the indicators from the fog lights on a GTI bumper to the side repeaters on the wings. the previous owner has really made a dogs ear of the wiring loom so could do with some help regarding this. Thanks
  9. I noticed all 3 of my brake lights have gone on my 2003 1.0 VW Lupo. So instantly thinking it's the switch. Have replaced the switch and they still don't work. Checked the fuse and they're fine. Just for good measure I replaced the bulbs and still don't work. What else could it be??? Can anyone help?
  10. Recently replaced the nearside sidelight and when I tested the new bulb it didn't work. Not a problem, I thought, I'll try another 501... that didn't work either. Turns out no other bulbs worked in that slot and the nearside taillight is now out and doesn't work when I replace that with a new bulb too?! Any idea as to the cause and solution? I'm stumped. The brake light and headlight still work as they should.
  11. Hi all I love the Lupo front end but I dislike the separate indicator light pods in the grill surround. Is there any way I can put these lights elsewhere and maybe remove the light pods from the panel? Many thanks ?
  12. Hello I am selling seat arosa fog/sport driving lights and grills, if your interested buy it from this link if your as it's my own ebay http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seat-arosa-fog-lights-2001-to-2005-/252517995582?nav=SEARCH
  13. Sorry I'm new to this, I was wondering if anyone could share any info and help me out. I have recently brought a 1.4 lupo S with what I thought was a good spec list as I have never seen this all on one lupo, or even at all. List as follows, -pop out back windows -3 seats in the back instead of two - heated seats -easy access fold and lift seats -heated seats -cd multichanger -fog lights -electric Windows -air conditioning -sport alloys -stubby mirrors both sides if anyone can shine a light about if this is rare at all or if it is simply just another lupo then I would be very greatful ?? thanks
  14. Hi, My Lupo 1.0 number plate lights dont work so i fitted some new bulbs to see if that was it and nothing. could there be a solution. thanks, Dom
  15. Hi everyone, so I have a problem with my number plate lights. Today I found they were not working so I went to halfords and bought a set of bulbs. Fitted them and still nothing. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
  16. Lupo rear lights for sale in good condition. need these gone asap. £35 posted
  17. Alternative title: the equally catchy "do it yourself light emitting diode chip on board daytime running lights". So, I wanted some nice daytime running lights for the front of my '99 Arosa. I did NOT, however, want to shell out upwards of £60 for a kit, plus I like to bugger about with stuff like this. I had a Google, did some reading, and [these] seemed to be just what I was looking for in a daytime running light. Low power consumption, aluminium body, insanely bright and reasonably priced. A year or so ago I used the older surface-mounted LED boards for this type of thing, my last project was running lights for my Suzuki Bandit, but these things are just in a different league in terms of material quality and brightness. I'm pleased with the result but pictures don't do these lights justice: I started by experimenting with mounting the lights in/on the stock 'honeycomb' infills... that didn't go so well. On a completely unrelated note, if anyone has any unmolested Mk2 infills kicking around the garage then I'd like to buy you a beer... Anyway. For the infills the lights are mounted on here, I used one of the finest sources of tough plastic you can find today: £2 chopping boards from Wilko's. (no, really). They're pretty flexible, have a texture that more or less matches plastic bumpers and they're pretty tough while being easy to work with with hand tools. With some flat black Plasti-Kote enamel paint on them they look pretty good, I think. When I get around to washing the rest of the car they might even match the plastic trim. I'll be replacing the fugly rusted screws asap. The LED lights came with some beastly 3M foam tape that would probably just pull the bumper off if you tried to pull them off hard enough, but I supplemented this by running a pair of zip ties around both ends of the lights. This also provides strain relief for the slightly wimpy wires that they come with. I cut them short and put on some insulated spade connectors behind the panels with some more manly wires. I would have just soldered the wires directly but I want these to be easily removable in case my MOT tester is having a bad day next time around. Wiring Parts list: 2x 6.8" COB LED lights from here1x 12v 30A 4-pin relay, available here1x inline mini blade fuse holder & 15A fuse1x 12v illuminated rocker switch, SPSTWire, lots of wire, some rated for >12wMale and female spade connectors2x ring connectors for the battery terminal boltsMetric d***ton of cable ties & shrink wrap tubingI pulled three (blue) wires for the switch through the rubber grommet in the bulkhead that the main loom runs through, and after breaking my own arms I was able to pull them into the passenger footwell, and from there, feed them through the holes for the blanking plates below the heater controls. The switch has 3 terminals: ground, +12v and Accessory. Obviously, +12v should be connected to the positive terminal of the battery, via a fuse. Accessory can be considered the 'ouput' from the switch and runs to the control circuit on the relay. I didn't see anywhere obvious to ground it under the centre console, so I ran three wires through the bulkhead and just wired it with the other negative parts of the circuit to the negative battery terminal with a large ring connector. The relay is wired thusly: the control circuit takes the (positive) input from the switch, and is also grounded. The load circuit takes +12v from the battery via the fuse and is wired to both LED lights in parallel. The LED lights are grounded directly to the negative terminal of the battery, for simplicity's sake. Once I'd gotten all the wire lengths right and the whole lot soldered and crimped together I went to town with the shrink wrap, electrical tape and zip ties, and even some bicycle inner tube for the relay. It's not pretty but it could've looked a hell of a lot worse and I'm confident that none of the wires will rub through and short: NB: anywhere you see electrical tape is just some extra insurance against the wires rubbing through, all the joints are shrink-wrapped. I'm sure these lights'll go some way to making sure dear old grandma notices me before she pulls her 3.5k mile beige Vauxhall out of that side turning on her way to buy cat food. Maybe they'll damage her retinas enough to finally get her off the road. As an added bonus, once it gets dark, I look forward to getting my own back on the d***heads in their BMWs who enjoy blinding you with their full beams. I hope you guys like the way this turned out and if anyone wants more information or a badly drawn circuit diagram, let me know. Apologies if none of this makes sense, I've been awake for a looong time.
  18. In need of some Cambridge rear lights, preferably secondhand.
  19. After searching long and hard for information about this i have found surprisingly little, so here it is - Front fogs how to. Depending on what car you have this list will vary slightly. This how to was based on a Mk1 Arosa Item list Mk2 Arosa specific: Fog light grill left - 6H0853665BFog light grill right - 6H0853666B2 Pull interior light switch - 6H0941531EMk1 Arosa specific: Front bumper lower valance - 6H0805903A2 Pull interior light switch - 6K2941531TLupo specific: Front bumper lower valance - 6H0805903A 2 Pull interior light switch - 1C0941531A(The lower bumper is interchangeable between both the Lupo and the Mk1 Arosa, i have listed part numbers separately as some Arosa exterior plastic is not actually black, it is 'neptune grey', so be aware of this when purchasing second hand.) Universal parts: Fog light left - 6H0941699AFog light right - 6H0941700AFog light loom - ​KufatecCable ties - TiesCable tie bases - Bases​Or alternatively: Reel of wire - Your colour choice 1Reel of wire - Your colour choice 2Ring terminal crimp connector - Ring terminalFemale terminal block crimp connector - Terminal connectorLoom tape - TapeFog connector housing - 1J0973702Now that thats dealt with - Business time! If you want perfect fitment and have plenty of time on your hands you can make your own loom up and route it how you like but for ease you can use the pre-made loom i have linked. If however you want to make your own loom you need to twin the negative of each fog connector and send them to earth, then twin the positives and take the remaining wire through into the cabin. When i got the loom it looked like this: When you have the pre-made loom, all you have to do is route it neatly around the engine and plug it into the fuse board, its that simple. Arguably the hardest part of this is whole install is choosing a neat route to fit the loom. Step 1: Mk2 Arosa: Fit the fog lights and grills - This should be as simple as removing the old blanks and fitting the new fogs and grills. Step 1 done. Mk1 Arosa & Lupo: Remove front bumper - As there is a guide already online i will not go into to much detail on this. Remove the screws in the arch lining for the front bumper Pop bonnet and remove all visible screws connecting the bumper to the body, it should slide off. If it does not, thoroughly check for any remaining screws. Honestly if you cant remove or figure out how to remove the bumper then you should not really be attempting this retrofit as it includes a lot of disassembly of trim and panels. Once the bumper is removed you can split the lower from the upper half, this is done by simply pushing the lock tabs out. The new lower bumper with the fogs pre-fitted (i emphasise this as it is miles easier to fit the fogs while off the car) should be snapped into place of the old one. Once this is done the bumper can be re-fitted. Step 2: Route the loom: The way i routed the loom was first to plug the fog connectors into the fogs. I plugged the long cable into the passenger side and the short into the drivers, i ran the ground up the drivers side along the loom and into the plenum chamber where there is a ground point just in front of the ECU. The terminal connector wire should split off around the drivers shock tower, this should be routed along the brake lines on the firewall and through the grommet commonly used for audio installs. The little white nub is the dome nut which secures the ground to the car, this is awkward to get to as it is under the scuttle panel and you cant fit a ratchet in, i used a 10mm swan neck to crack it then it spun off with a socket and my fingers. Slot the ring terminal through the basket and onto the shaft then lock the nut back up. The length of loom for the passenger fog was routed along the lower lip of the bumper underneath the fan. The loom should be secured down to the bumper with cable ties and bases to avoid unwanted movement and snagging. Step 3: (Bare in mind this was installed on a Mk1 so i can not advise how to proceed with a Mk2 or Lupo although the process should be similar once trim is removed) Mk1 Arosa: Remove the glove box and all lower dash underneath the steering wheel around the fuse box. Mk2 Arosa & Lupo: Remove relevant dash and trim to gain access to the firewall insulation behind the grommet. Remove relevant dash and trim under steering wheel to gain access to fuse box and relay panel. Interior wiring: Tape the terminal connector to protect it from damage when feeding around the cabin. Feed the wire through the grommet until you can grab it on the cabin side and pull it through and take up the slack Getting the wire to the other side of the car is the tricky bit but can be made a lot easier by the use of a stiff piece of wire, tape the end of the wire to the stiff piece and push the assembly along the loom or through a safe route to the drivers side. Once this is through to the other side, remove the fuse box, push it out of the way and you should be face to face with the white relay panel. The relay panel has 6 multiple coloured connectors, the one you want is the black one. Insert a small screwdriver into the tabs either side of the block, whilst pulling on the connector and it should come free. Pin 8 should be blank on the female side but the male side should magically have a pin in it. Route the wire safely across the pedal box enduring that is is impossible for any fouling to occur and zip tie securely. Push the wire into the back of the block and re-assemble the connector. Step 4: Install the switch: Mk1 Arosa: Remove the drivers side tweeter grill, pod and disconnect it. If you have bought the 2 pull switch for front fogs then you would see that there is a sprung tab on the bottom, this is the tab that needs to be depressed to release the bottom of the switch and subsequently pull the switch out of the dash. Feel around through the tweeter hole until you have found the tab, alternatively you can go in through the bottom, this is up to you, whatever is more comfortable and accessible. Once the switch is out, unplug the connector and fit the new switch. Mk2 Arosa & Lupo: Push the headlight switch in and twist anticlockwise, the switch should release and you can then remove it. Replace the switch with the new 2 pull fog switch. Congratulations You've got fogs. Use them wisely.
  20. Just bought myself a little 03 plate gti which I love! Having some intermittent problems with the lights. Somtimes when I turn the sidelights or headlights on, the passenger sidelights and rear lights do not come on. and sometimes i can switcht them off and on again, they come back on but then sometimes they dont!! have checked both fuses and they are fine. any common faults? I have also a problem with my indicators on the passenger side, where sometimes when the pull the indicator for the left hand turn signal, it will not work unless i pull it a little bit down (almost like the connection is not being made, but again like the other fault, it will sometimes work perfectly!!! Both faults could be linked?? Any info would be greatly appreciated! Rob
  21. Hello people , quick question. Bought Cambridge lights and need to know how to remove the orange lenses (de-tango) them. Thanks in advance
  22. I'm thinking of fitting front fogs to my Mk1 'rosa and i've been looking through ETKA and it seems like the front bumper lower section part number is the same for both the Arosa Mk1 and the lupo, can anybody confirm that the lupo section with fogs would fit on a Mk1 bumper?
  23. Hi guys, been here a while now occasionally popping my head up and saying some stuff! I've been given some HID's, they're a H7 bulb with a kit and run at 2300V! And they're bright. Very bright. I was thinking of running them in my fog lights as the bulb for the main and dipped beam is different yada yada yada! I reckon they'll fit in the fogs! If not then ill have a play around what do u guys think? Matt
  24. Okay car is finally running, however, my headlight, front indicator and side repeater on the passenger side aren't working! The rear is okay and drivers side is fine. I've checked the fuses and that's okay, is there a relay or anything? I refuse to believe all 3 bulbs have gone! Lol
  25. Just picked up my new car which had previously had Cambridge edition rear lights, these were switched back to standard Arosa Mk2 lights for the sale, all the fuses were blown so i replaced them and they blew all over again. Different wiring. While rectifying the problem i found a load of spliced wires and it occurred to me that not many people know how to correctly swap connections in terminals so i decided to write up this little how to. Here goes: This is the spliced loom how i got it (bar pin 6 which i fixed before thinking about making a how to). If this mod was done the 'correct' way, it would be a lot quicker to revert and a lot neater. Step 1: Insert a small screwdriver or something similar to pry each end of the retainer. This block is for the rear lights, the retainer on the connector block for the radio will be a slider that pulls out the center of the block. NOTE: MOST BLOCKS CONTAIN RETAINERS. INSPECT THE BLOCK THOROUGHLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY EXTRACTION. This will be what it looks like open: Step 2: Insert something into the connector block from the front on either side of the pin to compress the tabs, you should feel/hear a small click or pop, this indicates the pin should be free. For this i used a staple from an electric stapler/nail gun. Not the greatest picture but you can just see on pin 5 (red and black) the staple pushing down on the tabs. Step 3: Extract the pins and swap around. Its that easy. A picture of the loom tidied up - all wires heat shrank up, then bound with insulating tape for water proofing and bound again with loom tape for strength.
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