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Everything posted by imaparana

  1. i found the only locking tools i needed to do the cambelt were some drill bits, 8mm or 8.5mm from memory
  2. I had thought about getting it skimmed and ported while it was off the polo but nowhere locally really does that sort of stuff
  3. ill have a look at the map and get back to you on the complex questions, Injectors are the stock gsxr600 ones which i think are 240cc, but are at 80% duty so any more power and would probably need some bigger ones idle isnt too bad now ive balanced the itb's, its been raised to 1000 ish as itd try and die when the fan comes on or i turn the wheel at idle which loads the engine ill post a picture of the graph when i get a chance
  4. its got a soft cut around 7650, peak power is just after 7k
  5. Dyno day went well, minor hickups with the throttle cable/linkage which needs sorting before the next event, aswell as some venting to the ITBS as the intake temps were skyhigh 35+throughout the run. Despite this it made a healthy 163.9 bhp & 134ftlbs of torque, Torque has moved up the rev range from the VVT setup before which is to be expected. More is likely to be gained from an aftermarket manifold but will keep the stock one for now.
  6. I went for the biggest i could get really, Danst said they fitted 50mm on a lupo before, the other option from them was 90mm, i went with 75mm from somewhere else and just waiting on a pipercross filter to go over them. Yup abs is gone, running the stock pedal box which needed abit of fettling to fit the cable pedal. i have a bias valve in the line to the rear brakes Its a friends subaru GC8, ive been in his garage while faffing around with wiring
  7. Update: Some engine mods have been on the cards for a while now, with the jersey rally (main event of the year) being cancelled due to Covid now has been the ideal time to start this. In the hunt for more power, i decided to bite the bullet and go standalone ECU as no one on island can map the factory ecu. Aswell as doing an AVY/AFH Hybrid built (very basic) I managed to pick up a 6n polo 16v for a donor head (AFH) which would form the base of the upgrade. I rebuilt the head which was pretty minging for a 40k miles car, and stuck it on the stock bottom end. And ran it on the stock management in order to bed the cams in. Once all was bedded in i started on the Standalone conversion I went for a ME221 motorsport electronic ecu which has alot of features of expensive ecu's for a lower price point. I then spent a good few days making an engine harness for it. Keeping the stock ecu to run the clocks (minus the rev gauge) With the new ecu wired up it was a case of putting it all together, injection is by the way of gsxr600 itb's on a danst intake manifold. with a few tweeks to the basemap it fires up and idles sweet, with the lovely itb soundtrack. Also fitted in a aem wideband gauge to get the idle safe before the dyno session, aswell as an oil pressure light on a higher pressure switch. this had to be wired up separately to the factory light as having the engine run on the standalone, the factory ecu doesnt like to see oil pressure when it thinks its not running. The rolling road day is in 2 weeks time, a week before the next event so fingers crossed for no dyno day hickups
  8. Out of the calipers after they are bled
  9. i dont think its reaching the limits of the working range of the pad, plus at the event at bovington, bleeding the brakes at lunch time expelled a load of bubbles and increased the brake pedal feel for a good few stages
  10. The reason for the thought of fluid boiling is the pads I’ve got are very high temp pads, the fluid wasn’t the highest temp stuff available, it’s been bled very regularly
  11. The bars aren’t to stiffen the roll of the rear beam, but more to stop it bending inwards or outwards during cornering, was more of a while I had the beam out mod, not really sure it’s made much difference tbh but more of a belt and braces approach. ill see how the Castrol stuff holds out on the next tarmac event long enough to give me problems. yes it’s a hydraulic handbrake plumbed into the rear system
  12. I’ve also fitted some rs3 ducts that fit on the lower arm to help duct the air (forgotten how much I’ve done over lockdown) there is a lupo cup car brochure floating around, if you want it pop me a pm
  13. Thanks, it was ATE typ200, ive splashed out on some castrol react so fingers crossed that solves it. if not i need to man up and use less brakes Yes thats what ive done, it was done in the lupo cup and aslong on mk1 golfs
  14. not sure if you mean of the mods or from the event, so heres both. I also made some kevlar sill guards, and a riser for the shifter lever
  15. Sorry about the lack of update, so heres a brief one! Back before corona times we took the trip to the UK and did the bovington stages, car ran fine (apart from boiling brake fluid) and ended up 18th out of 47 entries. Was a cracking fast event. I have done a few updates during the covid-19 lockdown, including stiffening up the engine mounts with polyuerethene rubber, and triangulation and polybushes to the rear beam. Today we did the first (and maybe only) rally of the year over here, was a small entry of only 8 due to local restrictions, me and the mrs did a joint entry (2 navigators required) down at the local quarry, was up to 3rd out of 8 beating some fast cars and doing well, until on a change over there was an increase of vibrations, due to the fast change over times there was no time to investigate, launched it off the start line and broke a shaft (stage max for us 1:30 off our times), upon replacing the shaft we realise there was a broken top engine mount spares all fitted in time so the misses didnt incur a penalty! got her all up and running for the rest of the event, ended up with a 4th and 5th overall. The lupo was a proper force to be reckoned with on this type of event and cant wait for the next one. watch this space for more juicy updates soon
  16. id fitted windows abit wonky in the rubbers once that they didnt enjoy going up and down, doubt its that simple though
  17. looks epic, a great wheel for the gti!
  18. Yea obviously the vvt doesn’t work? When revved it seems like the ignition timing still adjusts yes it chucks a code
  19. Just tried this, it’ll start and rev with the cam position and solonoid removed/disconnected
  20. I know this is a pretty old thread now. However im looking at doing an AFH/AVY hybrid at some point, will the AVY ecu not take a dump if the cam position sensor is removed?
  21. As mk2 said, this is probably the best way, i did this with my classic mini (probably a little more involved on the lupo) But put your switch somewhere hidden but also not a pain in the arse for you to get to when sitting in the car.
  22. imaparana


    youll have less grip at the front than the back. Also the rolling radius's are different so could play with your abs? if you can id put 205/45 on the front to
  23. the teamdynamics i run are 15x7 ET40, i ran them like this for years but after my first rally i had to roll the arches as had clearance issues with the arches. So probably would hold out for the ET40 unless you want to roll your arches a fair bit
  24. mine has always been like that when cold (moreso with a goosed lower engine mount)
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