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Everything posted by imaparana

  1. I got one brand new a while back, I think it was in the region of 55 quid
  2. My gti has always had less caster on one side, I’ve moved the subframe forward on that side which has helped a tad, would be interested to see if something like this works
  3. Flywheel update: Epytec have been great in dealing with the above issue and have just dispatched a replacement fywheel for me, so pressume they sent the wrong one by mistake initially. A helix friction disk is likely to be mounted to it over winter/offseason now there are no more events.
  4. i had a creak/rattle coming from the backrest of the rear seats clips into the top (quick release style), i ended up packing it out at the time
  5. Cheers for all the Ideas, After looking into it and pictures from the suppliers website i think i may have been sent the wrong flywheel or there has been a machining mistake, i'm in talks with them now so hopefully can sort something out I think my post about the shaft was maybe abit misleading, when the engine mount broke, the engine moved back towards the bulkhead and then broke an inner CV (i havnt pulled it apart yet to work out exactly what failed). The clutch im running is the stock one with a sprung hub. If the box comes out again i think ill put it a helix sprung 4 paddle
  6. Thanks for the reply, I measured up the flywheel last night and it appears the friction face on the flywheel is only 215mm, the gti clutch is 220mm, I looked on your thread and yours seems different to me (your friction surface is bigger) doesn’t explain the ring gear issue but they may have sent a different flywheel I’d filled a mount with poly resin before and it failed, the rubber on it was pretty worn and cracked tbh which probaly doesn’t help, may try it again, but gets expensive when it breaks shafts and potentially gets me out of the rally in the process
  7. yea good idea, i had thought of that but didnt know if itd been done before (if the gti one was hollow or anything like that) , will have a look into it over winter
  8. It’s an epytec one, I know quite a few gti’s run them so maybe a one off problem or something, not spoken to them yet as not sure I want to put another on to have a similar issue Had a great event on Saturday finishing 1st in class and 6th overall (out of 9 entrants). The new power definately made a big different on the longer sections and uphill areas. areas that need addressing before the next event: oil leak to fix leaking oil filled engine mount to fix gearbox oil leak to fix maybe fit an updated clutch and it was abit smelly at times
  9. Quick pre event update, Ive been having some starter motor grinding issues which havnt been solved with swapping the starter, however the car has always started... until tuesday night... Starter motor stopped engaging with the ring gear, swapped starters again only to find the issue wasnt fixed. Was a late one pulling the box out tuesday night to find the teeth on the lightened flywheel were absolutely goosed! aswell as signed of uneven wear on the friction disc against the flywheel also. the clutch never felt the same after fitting the lightened flywheel so i suspect it was eit
  10. i found the only locking tools i needed to do the cambelt were some drill bits, 8mm or 8.5mm from memory
  11. I had thought about getting it skimmed and ported while it was off the polo but nowhere locally really does that sort of stuff
  12. ill have a look at the map and get back to you on the complex questions, Injectors are the stock gsxr600 ones which i think are 240cc, but are at 80% duty so any more power and would probably need some bigger ones idle isnt too bad now ive balanced the itb's, its been raised to 1000 ish as itd try and die when the fan comes on or i turn the wheel at idle which loads the engine ill post a picture of the graph when i get a chance
  13. its got a soft cut around 7650, peak power is just after 7k
  14. Dyno day went well, minor hickups with the throttle cable/linkage which needs sorting before the next event, aswell as some venting to the ITBS as the intake temps were skyhigh 35+throughout the run. Despite this it made a healthy 163.9 bhp & 134ftlbs of torque, Torque has moved up the rev range from the VVT setup before which is to be expected. More is likely to be gained from an aftermarket manifold but will keep the stock one for now.
  15. I went for the biggest i could get really, Danst said they fitted 50mm on a lupo before, the other option from them was 90mm, i went with 75mm from somewhere else and just waiting on a pipercross filter to go over them. Yup abs is gone, running the stock pedal box which needed abit of fettling to fit the cable pedal. i have a bias valve in the line to the rear brakes Its a friends subaru GC8, ive been in his garage while faffing around with wiring
  16. Update: Some engine mods have been on the cards for a while now, with the jersey rally (main event of the year) being cancelled due to Covid now has been the ideal time to start this. In the hunt for more power, i decided to bite the bullet and go standalone ECU as no one on island can map the factory ecu. Aswell as doing an AVY/AFH Hybrid built (very basic) I managed to pick up a 6n polo 16v for a donor head (AFH) which would form the base of the upgrade. I rebuilt the head which was pretty minging for a 40k miles car, and stuck it on the stock bottom end. And
  17. Out of the calipers after they are bled
  18. i dont think its reaching the limits of the working range of the pad, plus at the event at bovington, bleeding the brakes at lunch time expelled a load of bubbles and increased the brake pedal feel for a good few stages
  19. The reason for the thought of fluid boiling is the pads I’ve got are very high temp pads, the fluid wasn’t the highest temp stuff available, it’s been bled very regularly
  20. The bars aren’t to stiffen the roll of the rear beam, but more to stop it bending inwards or outwards during cornering, was more of a while I had the beam out mod, not really sure it’s made much difference tbh but more of a belt and braces approach. ill see how the Castrol stuff holds out on the next tarmac event long enough to give me problems. yes it’s a hydraulic handbrake plumbed into the rear system
  21. I’ve also fitted some rs3 ducts that fit on the lower arm to help duct the air (forgotten how much I’ve done over lockdown) there is a lupo cup car brochure floating around, if you want it pop me a pm
  22. Thanks, it was ATE typ200, ive splashed out on some castrol react so fingers crossed that solves it. if not i need to man up and use less brakes Yes thats what ive done, it was done in the lupo cup and aslong on mk1 golfs
  23. not sure if you mean of the mods or from the event, so heres both. I also made some kevlar sill guards, and a riser for the shifter lever
  24. Sorry about the lack of update, so heres a brief one! Back before corona times we took the trip to the UK and did the bovington stages, car ran fine (apart from boiling brake fluid) and ended up 18th out of 47 entries. Was a cracking fast event. I have done a few updates during the covid-19 lockdown, including stiffening up the engine mounts with polyuerethene rubber, and triangulation and polybushes to the rear beam. Today we did the first (and maybe only) rally of the year over here, was a small entry of only 8 due to local restrictions, me and the mrs did a joint entry (2 nav
  25. id fitted windows abit wonky in the rubbers once that they didnt enjoy going up and down, doubt its that simple though
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