mk2

Your injectors are fine if running rich. Something is telling the ecu to run a rich fuelling map. Usually temp sensor. But could be a number of things or combination. VCDS will tell you what each of the sensors is seeing, so have a look at each, cold and once warmed up.

They don't work. Not bright enough. Oem led lights are good, but then they are not an H4 fitment...

Yeah sounds like fluid. Me wrong. @Rich is right... stop looking so smug Rich. i still would flush the box though.

Yeah, sounds like broken pedal box... it's all in the gearbox thread. Your oil will be very contaminated with yellow metal now (synchro gear swarf). That will be destroying your bearings. A running engine hot oil flush is the only way to get it all out, with the wheels turning when you remove the drain plug.

At rest, is the clutch and brake pedal the same height? Could be the pedal box. Look at the definitive gearbox thread.... also it's worth flushing the gearbox oil till it comes out clean.

Easier to swap it than test, without the right equipment. Otherwise you might be able to rig up a tyre pressure gauge to the output pressure side. Input pressure should be at least 60psi. Not sure what the controlled pressure is on your model. 45psi? But whatever it is, it should be steady. No brakes (very high foot force needed).

Steering wheel, rear lights and cup holder please plus a few other bits.... but are you 100% sure that the gearbox isn't fixable? Fifth is the one that means you need a new box. Fourth and diff parts are easily swapped from just about any other model. I just had one of my SDI boxes rebuilt (needed it too)- I can show you pics of what needs swapping over.

Do you have a carbon canister? Could be the solenoid. Could be fuel pressure regulator? Check vacuum hose to brake servo... or could be dodgy brake servo where the internal air valve is leaky, allowing extra air into the engine? Try disconnecting it temporarily (and block the suction). might be more than one problem.

Can they be dismantled?

T cut oh, and welcome to club lupo!

Pics not viewable...?

That'd be a sight! Usually, you remove the two roof strips (they just lift out or get blown out when at speed...). Then a clip fastens under the roof edge, with the other bit resting in the channel. Then a cross piece joins them together. here- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALUMINIUM-AERO-ROOF-BARS-for-VW-LUPO-99-05/183197870068

Yeah, they did I think... same as the polo one unless i'm mistaken

Yeah, only electric throttles. The old manual ones you DO need to calibrate TPS... with a voltmeter!

It does it every time you switch on... takes a split second. You can hear a whirr click sound. But some TBs come as they are and the ECU doesn't bother, as it compensates while it's running. I wouldn't worry about it TBH. It'll just work.... Only the really early TBs from back around 1991/2 needed a calibration setup as far as I know.

It is self calibrating. You don't need to do anything. All modern VAG electric (motorised) throttle bodies do. The 'off' position gives you enough revs to theoretically get you home, albeit at a slow pace... When messing with my SDI diesel injection pump, I noticed that it works in a very similar way. One quick calibration just after power up. Horrible when you bump start it though or turn the power back on while 'coasting' in gear. If the two TPS outputs don't work perfectly in mirror image voltage output, the ECU discards the data and will go into limp mode. If still like that just after power up (and calibration), it'll stay in limp mode. Otherwise it'll work normally and log an intermittant fault on the TPS (1 or 2, or both) signals. Good fun when bump starting cars with electric throttle bodies (WOT for a moment). But the chaps at bosch rewrote the code so that only the very earliest cars did it.

All these ideas about deleting silncers and making your machine noisier doesn't give you any advantages. The reduced back pressure actually reduces low down torque for normal driving, if you keep the stock cam timing. Unless the engine is always running well above 5000 rpm (like on track), the power gain is at the most only about 1-2hp. Running a car with an almost empty fuel tank and slightly higher tyre pressure will give a much bigger advantage... The stock cam timing (overlap and duration) is factory designed to run with a stock exhaust.

Yeah, in that case, unlikely to be cam belt jump as there's enough timing duration to jump a few teeth in that engine to not be a problem. So just as @Sausage says, almost certainly one of the hydraulic lash adjusters not activating. The engine oil pressure fills the gap (extending the little piston) between the camshaft lobe and the top of the valve when not opening. If clogged or worn out, the thing makes a right tap tap tap noise, which should go after a few seconds of running. Very reliable. Last at least 300k+ miles. They tap at startup occasionally if the oil drains bcak into the sump after a hot run and cool down. Cheap oil filters can be the cause where the non return valve inside it isn't very good ir oil thats lower grade than it should be. One of the best inventions ever inside an engine IMO. Not sure who owns the patent, but not all car engines have them.

Don't use it. Might be the cam belt jumped a tooth and you're hearing valve/piston interaction. more details please. What engine?

Get it home. Charge it. Isolate what is drawing power by disconnecting stuff or pulling fuses. Possible, but unlikely to be the radio unless someone's messed with the wiring behind it.

Dunno without seeing it.... Cleaning with something like brake and clutch cleaner fluid and a rag would take seconds, but most people don't bother cleaning it. It gets dirty again very quickly (with dry dust). Only reason I investigated the problem thoroughly is because I was curious to know why mine was so damned heavy- I thought that I'd either snap the cable or break the pedal box again! I originally suspected that one of the spring 'tines' (i think they're called or fingers?) had snapped causing the release bearing to function at an angle on the sleeve- leading to binding in exactly the way it does with gunge. Obviously in my case, absolutely nothing needed replacing, other than a really good clean. There was wear, but even a completely worn out clutch could never ever cause it to be heavy. But for good measure, while the box was out, I changed all the bearings, seals and syncro number 3. And cleaned the magnet and then flushed it properly. Smooth and light as' now . It needed it too.

Something that is rotating is my guess. Wheel? Tyre? CV joint? Half shaft balancing weight (if fitted)? Wheel bearing (again)?

I dunno if anyone has ever been so bored that they've sat on the forecourt watching the tanker driver doing his thing... They use the same hose to fill all the tanks. And when they get lazy, they don't bother to completely empty the hoses between fuel changes. Like 20m of 100mm tube sitting on the ground half filled with diesel, being emptied into the unleaded tank. Diesel is heavier than petrol so will sink to the bottom of the tank (yeah eventually it'll disperse). Fuel is sucked up from the very bottom of the forecourt tank, so there'll be a whole load of cr@p in there. I never ever refuel just after or during a tanker recharge... But your power problem might just be complete coincidence. Something may have fallen off during starting? oh, and welcome to club lupo!

Pic would help, but sounds a bit like a mk1 golf cable...? I recently refurbed the box on one of my SDIs and also had a very stiff or heavy clutch. I can conclusively say that the heaviness comes from friction between the guide sleeve and the release bearing. It looks like what happened was that gunge built up in the small gaps between the steel sleeve (attached to the gearbox with 3 bolts) and the inner plastic part of the releaser. ALL the clutch components were absolutely fine. Just gunge. The friction material dust from the clutch plate has to go somewhere, and if everything is nice and dry, it eventually gets blown out through gaps in the bellhousing. No problem. But what I'd noticed is that the primary input shaft seal, which is meant to keep the gear oil inside the gearbox, starts to weep very slightly as it gets old. The rotary action of the spinning shaft or maybe just capilary action allows a very small amount of oil to build up around the guide sleeve. Some of that oil makes its way between the sleeve and the releaser which naturally starts to collect clutch dust. Which then turns into really thick sticky gunge. The gunge has properties best described as very thick sticky toffee like tar, with fine grit in. Such a high viscosity substance between the sleeve and releaser simply jams the action, resulting in a heavy clutch. It doesn't help that the clutch release bearing lever that presses against the springs moves in an arc, which naturally tries to twist the release bearing when you put your foot on it. When you release, it gets pushed straight back by the springs, so engaging is not a problem- only releasing... so my guess is that fine metal in your gearbox oil has worn the seal, which is weeping, collecting dust and causing the releaser to be sticky.

Welcome to CL! yeah, the auto box needs regular maintenance, just like the engine. All auto boxes do. Every 20k miles minimum. I'd suggest a full fluid change along with the internal oil filter and magnet clean. And as well as the fluid, you could change the oil in the diff section (and magnet clean), which everyone forgets. I bet it's never had its filter or fluids changed... noise= damage no drive= low fluid quiet= all good.