mk2

I want to completely drain the coolant from one of my SDIs, but I'm too lazy to do it the proper way - sump shield off (most difficult bit), hot engine so thermostat is wide open and then remove the 'cold' pipe from the inlet flange and dump the entire contents of scalding coolant all over my head. Rad and lump both completely emptied that way. Then put everything back together again. Any other method that is easier without needing to remove the sump shield?

Brighton i think. I fancy a trip to the seaside... stay in a dodgy B&B. Get some rock. Sit on a beach. Eat chips. Feed seagulls. Just need time off work- in about 30 years.

If the controller is flagging a fault with the driver's ignition module, then that tells you the main controller (under the heater in front of the gear stick) is probably ok. So that means probably wiring or airbag unit in the steering wheel. Here's my opinion... The airbag unit is a very simple thing, basically a coil which ignites the explosive propellant, which creates expanding gas, inflating the bag. They are very reliable, as they are so simple. Which probably means wiring. So this means elimination and probability of fault cause. The most probable cause of a wiring fault is past interference by an untrained grease monkey, a loose connection or a chafing/rubbing/movement related situation causing an intermittant break in the wiring. Has anyone ever interfered or modified the steering column, for example to replace indicator stalks, wiper controls or fit after market remote keyless entry? - yes, then the fault is probably a loose connection or trapped wire somehwere on the steering column. - no, then a connector may have become loose or somewhere movement between the steering column and the steering wheel has caused a connection to fail. Worth checking the airbag plug and the plug on the steering column. And finally the clockspring unit (which connects the airbag to the steering column wiring- like a mini tape measure- a spiral ribbon cable). There's a pic of the back of the airbag and the steering column in here: https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/63534-mending-cleaning-lupo-indicator-stalk-lever/ My first step to save time would be to bung in a second hand airbag. Takes two minutes. If fault still there, then strip the steering column and have a close look- first plugs, then spiral connection and damage anywhere. 30 mins. Lastly check the continuity (connection) between the airbag and the controller with a multimeter. Max 2h of labour, more like an hour. The labour will cost more than the (second hand) parts.

Yeah easy one to sort... It's either the wiring, the controller or the airbag. Diagnostics will help a lot. What data do you get back? Is it showing driver's or passenger? Or general system fault (both fail)? A quick check would be to simply swap for another airbag from a breakers - £10... It could be the clock spring- which is the wires inside the steeringwheel between the steering column and the airbag. Easy to test with a meter. If it's the control unit (unlikely, but possible), then you simply swap for another used (but not a crash activated) unit from a breakers again - £10. pics of car please sounds like a nice one. R U on cheap or regular road tax?

So in the meantime, I'll just have to make sure nobody T-bones me. Avoid all T junctions from now on....

The research guys I know at the BP/Castrol science centre told me that oil only matters when it gets old. Really old. They explained that if you change it at under 5k miles and with regular driving (not really short trips), the additives have only just begun to start doing their thing. Something to do the 4 ball wear test (worth a google). HD oil is different. The lower number viscosity rating number only really matters when caning it with an ice cold engine. Like 0W40 or 5W40...

Blue smoke means burning oil. So where can it come from in a NA engine (that isn't broken)... Rings. Valves. Sump gases.

A lupo with curtain or side airbags? News to me. Was it an option? Lupos are known to be fine in front or rear collisions, but "very" weak on side impact, if no airbag provided. Interesting...

Impact driver on max. Easier.

Yeah, not essential, but just curious where it pinged out from. Last time it took me two years to put it back (in the mk4)...

I know this has been asked before, but that big strong spring just pinged out from under the driver's seat. I can't for the life of me figure out where it goes back. Did one a few years ago on a mk4, but can't remember how. D'uh. Does it help the seat slide or is it to hold the locking mech in place? Can't find a diagram- anyone?

He could always go 'second chance' bidder.... only a tenner in it.

Can't wait to see the end product pics. Bet it'll look sick.... 👍🏻

I think we need a clear pic.

Yeah, I also have five ebay accounts... great way to up your selling price when you only have one watcher.

The speedo sensor is 3 pin...

The speed sensor plug only goes one way round if that helps...

Have a look at this web site... http://www.oemepc.com/vw/main_group/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hauptgruppen/1234567890/lang/e your english is great. Way better than my Korean.

The error messages lead me to suspect an air leak. The fuel and ignition systems are both fine else you'd get other codes. Sensors are most likely fine too. It is possible that O2 is out but unlikely as they are very tough, and unusual to fail in normal use. The ECU has analysed the exhaust gas and has tried to get the mixture just right by adjusting the throttle and fuel injection pulses and has basically reached end stop. As in, either it can't close the throttle any more (to reduce air) or is adding more fuel to the point where the idle revs start creeping up (above about 900). So to keep the idle stable together with a decent exhaust gas mixture (meaning the fuel / air mix), it has had to reduce fuel, resulting in a lean mix. This can be caused by excessive exhaust "air" from the EGR valve being stuck (unlikely, but possible), or most likely air being sucked in from some other tiny gap. It doesn't take much which is why it can be a pain to fix. Put it this way, a gap the size of the edge of a little finger nail is enough. Sometimes you can hear the air whistling in... there is a way to use raw propane gas from a flexi hose in your engine bay to see if the idle revs change when you get near the leak- they go up. Also possible are - low fuel pressure (filter, pump, pressure regulating valve), but unlikely. TPS, or throttle valve misbehaving, giving wrong readings to ECU. my guess is that the car drives completely normally otherwise....?

It'd be so cool to know what each 3 letter code meant... i haven't seen that in Etka.

👍🏻

Yeah, and 3w will also work. But change all at the same time...

Welcome to CL!

Yeah, i need a spare bung if anyone has one??? Just stops stuff falling into the clutch space.

We even get breads like Baguettes, Pumpernickel and other such exotic things to accompany the cheeses. Oak cakes? Potato farls? Pah! Such northern things.