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I'd say the colour thing is preference, for example I really dislike black cars. You justify my comment with your cunty comment.

After weekend of messing about, my window is working again. But I don't think I fixed anything at all. Ok, so one of my Lupos decided recently that the passenger side electric window wasn't going to play any more. It was shut and didn't want to open. All it did is make a click sound every time I pressed the down (or up) switch. This happened with both the driver's and passenger's side window control switches. My first thought was that the Central Convenience Module (CCM) had thrown a tantrum as is so often the case in our Lupos. It affects central locking, window behaviour and interior lights (plus a few other bits). Locks were ok, as was the inside light. So I thought I'd check if I could control the windows without using the control switches- by using the door locks. There's a handy feature on all electric window Vdubs where if you want to open all the electric windows at the same time without getting into the car, you simply insert key into driver's door lock and turn it to the unlock position and hold it there for five seconds. (To close them all you lock it for 5 secs.). The driver's window opened no problem. Passenger side; Nothing. By the way, this fault is different to the really common wire rope snapping, the glass clamp breaking loose or the track or pulleys getting jammed (often caused by trying to work the windows when they've been glued shut with ice (or frost). Sticky or slow windows just need some silicone oil sprayed onto the felt window tracks to help them slide more easily. So off with the door cards. Carefully cut or peel the waterproofing membrane away from the top only (to be reused- essential!). Reach in and unplug the motor connector (not easy). Tape the glass up to the top of the door so it doesn't drop down. Reach up and slightly loosen (but don't remove) the two 10mm glass clamp bolts (also not easy). Gently unhook the plastic cable 'X' stay from the door. Unbolt the five 10mm bolts/nuts and carefully remove the entire assembly. So far all pretty standard stuff. At this point you could spend money and just get another new assembly, swap over and reassemble. The following pics I took while working show what you need to do to sort out a clicking motor that doesn't want to work. It's all basically just cleaning and testing. I pulled everything to pieces, cleaned a LOT of dust off the PCB and the two sensors, wiped bits of metal off the magnet ring and washed any carbon brush material off the PCB using brake and clutch cleaner fluid. Then put it all back together again. I couldn't find any faults. My guess is that the bits of metal stuck to the magnet ring messed with the output pulses and carbon brush dust, which conducts electricity partly shorted out the components on the PCB. The relay also appeared to work just fine- you can't test it without removing it from the PCB because 12V goes backwards into the circuit (which would damage it). Trickiest bits are unsoldering the PCB without damaging anything and then putting the brushes back in. An extra pair of hands is useful there. I suspect that during factory assembly, they use a plastic 'loading ring', sliding the rotor in place while a thin rigid plastic tube holds back the brushes. The rest of reassembly is the reverse of dismantling. The easy way out would be to simply swap the motor/gearbox over which was my first choice. But they are unique to Lupos/Arosas; I couldn't find one anywhere (for a reasonable price).

Hi Just wanted to share this ..After nearly a year ... it’s had a good polish. I was pleased. With how it shines up !

What does everyone think of the drop?

My 2005 Laser Blue Gti 💓

Thanks there are some great photos on this site,keep enjoying your black car.

Thanks Kev, nice comprehensive write up and reflects a lot of what I've been told from someone who bought both of his kids foxes! Rich I like how you've sort of said it is a good car there, in order to worry about the more asthetical issues the mechanics must be fairly sound. I agree 6 cupholders is madness though (the gf has a ds3 and there are NONE!!). I feel like this thread needs to be renamed and moved into the fox forum now for future prospective fox hunters to read, wheres a mod when you need one...

I'm trying to remember how it's wired. I think the rear fog is powered from the headlight circuit via the main headlight switch, through the dip switch on the steering column, and lastly through the fog light switch that you pull out. So if high beam and dipped beam headlights work ok, the steering column selector is fine, as is the headlight/side light switch (main switch). Which points to the the main lights switch, fog light selector. It's a really unusual fault. Have you had a tracker fitted? They usually bung them in behind the light switch, connected to the always powered circuit. And make a right botch job of the wiring. To remove the light switch, instead of pulling the selector out, like you do to select rear fogs on, you push the switch in firmly to mid position. Then while keeping in mid position, wiggle and pull it straight out. The selector should stay pushed in. The whole switch assembly should come straight out revealing a ton of wiring. Press the retaining clip on the wire connector and disconnect the switch. Then you can swap over the switch or test it. And inspect the wiring leading into the connector. My guess is wiring just behind the connector (a tracker fitted) or the probably the switch itself. Let us know what you find. oh, and welcome to club lupo

I just hate how high you sit, you can't text whilst driving and asides from wishbone bushes nothing seems to go that wrong. Windows are ****. Engines can burn oil. I haven't got but I have seen bad rust. All the buttons and switches are in the wrong place. Wipers looks ****. 9n3 selecting reverse makes the wiper go, even dry. Revs are too high at speed. There doesn't need to be six cup holders. I can't fault that much but I definitely don't endorse it.

Mick, See below for a reply I made to another query on the Fox. It may assist: There are two basic Fox variants. The 1.2 three cylinder and the 1.4 model. The 1.2 is the much more economical car. i have owned three of the 1.2 model, covering about 80k miles. They have proven to be more or less trouble free. It’s a good, practical workhorse, but built to a budget. There is plenty of front tyre noise in the cabin and performance is adequate. The gearing means that the car will go most places in 4th and 5th gear. Motorways are no problem but petrol consumption dips if you get too enthusiastic. The only problems I had were as follows: 1. Speedo display packed up, but this was replaced under warranty. 2. Blown fuses from trying to use rear wiper in freezing weather. 3. Front washer hose leak where it meets the bonnet...design issue 4. Electronic boot catch fail 5. Electric window motor fail. Servicing of the 1.2 is simple and dirt cheap. There is a Base and an Urban model. The latter has a few extras such as split and sliding rear seat, opening rear windows, central locking and electric windows. As a workhorse, I personally think it takes some beating. I taught my son to drive in the Fox too. The clutch is light and the gearbox is smooth. Good basic car, with a high driving position that gives good visibility. Good luck. Kev

One of my SDIs wears a set of Avons. Only because the spare was brand new, so just needed 2 more plus one i found on ebay for a tenner! They are not too bad and are wearing well. MOT on one of the other SDIs tomorrow afternoon. Not sure I'll have time to put the interior back together after intense deep cleaning and rebuilding. So long as it has a couple of seats and the seat belts are all good, we should be fine... Got a pair of Continentals arriving later/tomorrow for the other SDI! MOT season is here.

Spot on,this is how it should have come out of the factory.

Looks a bit like a touch key tab. Some retro immobiliser interface thing?

You'll have to trace it.

Ah, ok, it's one of those compressors... In that case, check the power feed to the control valve, going into the back of the compressor. It's the thing that sets how much volume the pump displaces (how much it compresses per rev). Disregard my previous post, as that applies to the other type of compressor. @RAB is right as usual.

There's no clutch on the pump. When the A/C is off, the pump still runs but at a minimum level, determined by the swash plate. RAB

If pipe 5 in the drawing gets hot when the pump is running (ac selected), it means you're compressing gas, so you 'should' get some cold. @RAB is right about the switch though. There's a high low switch which cuts off the compressor (to avoid damage). Too high- off. Too low- off. Somewhere inbetween - on. The clutch should engage and disengage as you select AC. You can see the flat plate bit, furthest from the pump, in the middle of the pulley. When off, it shouldn't turn. When on, the electromagnet pulls on it engaging the plate clutch. Very simple system. Usually the bearing wears out before the compressor packs up. New compressor seals are about £3- little ceramic graphite things, a bit like a ceramic tap valve. My bet is that the evaporator (bit inside the car is clogged with gunge= low air flow), or like you say lowish gas. The fan should run when ac is on.

Service union under the brake servo.

I wouldn't mind betting that the pressure switch has failed and is giving a false high reading. If you just had a leak (and low pressure), the fan wouldn't run. The pump always runs (even when A/C is off) unless the safety "clutch" has failed, which happens when the pump has seized. RAB

I'll drop you a message about it Few more pics from the last few weekends adventuring... Freshened up the engine cover as it was looking a bit tatty. Also modified it so it would fit over the induction piping, much prefer the engine bay with the engine cover on. Still need to repaint the power steering reservoir bracket 🙄

Separate project I've got some spares which I'm stripping down to get painted properly and then will swap over. I need to source the fronts to do the same with those.

Will get some springs or something ordered this week.. It's going to bug me too much to put off for much longer...

I'm in love too.

Car back and the team dynamics on. I think this will be the further from OEM I’ll make the car look. Think it’s a nice change and the grey looks good against the black!

How about https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/Retropower-Speed-Shop?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

There's a stripped down to its entirety assembly. Enjoy zooming

Afraid its trial and error - Before you start, on a level surface measure rim to top of arch so you know where you were. Build up the struts, ideally with new top mounts, coat all the threads in some form of protection - I like PTFE spray grease, its good as it repels water and is not sticky. Set a height of spring perch the same on each side - but don't lock it with the grub screw just yet. to help keep your alignment - before tearing in measure angle of front wheel camber - iphone has an angle measure + with wheel off photo hub pinch bolt locations Install, take for a very short drive to settle the suspension, measure new height and then adjust and lastly lock the grub screw, to seal the thread use thread lock on the grub screws.

Hi I am new member in this forum and want to welcome to all members of this forum. Thanks

Under the engine mount bracket.

So i finally got round to cleaning my ats cups after 2 years of road grime using a buffing wheel and lots of elbow grease, the center caps need replacing. Tyre gel works nice for a perfect finish. But they come up nicely i thought they were done for tbh. yeah they are not the best condition anymore but still pop a nice shine in the sunlight. The whole car needs a good machine polish to remove some questionable marks that mr pigeon has left me. I wanted to have white walls but they get scuffed up and will be dirty living in Scotland If anyone has tips and know-how to make my paint shine better would be gratefully appreciated 😀

I think you should find a second hand hose. Or to fix the existing where the leakage is.

HELLO, I am the New Owner of one of the "Press Cars" this one being T62 DBW. I have been a VW owner for the last 32 years approximately, so be assured its in safe hands 😉 It has been adulterated a little, so the plan is to get it back, or as close to OEM as i can. Currently it is running Yamaha R1 Bike Carbs, sits low on aftermarket alloys. So, a little work needs to be done to get it there. Any info anyone has on this car and where it has been over the last 20 years would be great. I have managed to track down a couple of previous owners and am in the process of putting a portfolio together, with Magazine copies as back up. Also hoping to make a few shows next year, so come say HELLO. LET THE GAMES BEGIN......................................

Just in relation to my above question, i didnt get any feedback from this of where the above resistor was located, i done a quick search under the dash and located it simply in the passenger footwell, up in the corner under the lower pocket, simply above the small cover thats under their. its held on by two small bolts and their is a connection going in. I took off the resistor and noticed it rusty and cracked, meaning that was the reason my heater would not work on number 1 - 3 . I purchased another resistor pack on ebay, it was off a VW Polo 2001, but it had the same part number as the Lupo, it fitted straight on. simple job, took 10 mins. Hope this helps others who have the same problem of the heater fan not working on number 1 - 3. The part cost 12 pound, buy second hand. The part number is 1J0 819 022 A.

The electric window motors seem to be a common problem on these cars. Sometimes replacing the switch resolves the problem but this can also be caused by the grease in the mechanism drying out. As you have tried changing the switch then I suggest you remove the regulator and motor from the car. This can sometimes be easier said than done as you will need to get access to the clamps that hold the glass to the regulator. This lack of lubrication for these items can be noticed if the motor clicks when the window switch is pressed but nothing else happens. To do the job you will need to 1/ remove door top trim by prising of the interior handle handle cover using a flat bladed screwdriver inserted at the small gap at the bottom of the handle cover. Then remove the two crosshead screws. Carefull pull the trim panel away from the door. Some of the plastic clips may break. Release the door cable and unplug the wiring for the warning light (on drivers side). Tear off the grey interior waterproof cover. These are no longer available from VW so can be replaced with a sheet of plastic stuck on with silicone. Unplug the wiring for the electric window switch and door lock. 2/ remove lower door panel by undoing the 4 screws at the bottom of the panel and carefully pull away by pulling out at the sides and then lifting up to clear the top fixings. Remove grey interior cover as above 3/ Place a piece of cloth on the top of the door and then putting strong duck tape from one side of the glass, over the top of the door (and cloth) and stick onto the other side of the glass. Use at least 2 pieces of tape. This is to stop the glass falling and breaking once motor has been removed. 4/ undo the 10mm bolts holding the motor in place (3). Undo the 10 mm bolts at the bottom and top of the regulator arms (2 for each arm). Note one of these has a spacer that may fall into the bottom of the door. 5/ Take a 10mm spanner and reach up inside the door and loosen the bolts on the clamps holding the bottom of the glass. This is a bit akward. 6/ The regulator arm can be gently pulled down and towards each other. With some gentle manipulation this will allow for the clamps to come away from the glass, leaving the glass in place - held by the duck tape 7/ Everything is now free except for the wiring to the actual motor. It is possible to remove this connector without removing the door speaker but just not worth the effort. Use an electric drill on the 4 rivits holding the speaker, unplug and move out of the way. The multi plug connector is used for cars that have the one touch up and down option. A two pin connector is used for those cars that do not have this feature. The connector is held in place by a plastic clip that needs to be pressed to release. 8/ Now everything should be released and the motor, complete with regulator, can be eased out of the space at the bottom of the door. 9/ Place the complete unit onto a clean surface. The motor has a metal fixing bracket on one side. Place with the otherside up and remove the 5 crosshead screws from the plastic cover. Gently ease off the plastic cover but do not fully remove. Inside you will see the metal cable wound around a plastic spindle. Spray plenty of grease into this area. I used a spray lithium grease from Halfords. Refit cover and tighten 10 / spray all of the wheels around the regulator and spray into the area where the cables enter the spindle area mentioned above. Also spray the metal frame of the regulator where the glass clamps slide up and down. 11/ Carefully plug the wiring loom into the motor and plug the wiring back into the window switch. Switch on the ignition and try the switch to ensure that the motor now moves the regulator. Switch off the ignition and remove the wiring connector. 12/ refit the regulator and motor. Refit the bolts remeberring the spacer. Reconnect the switch. Switch on ignition again and move the regulator to half open position. 13/ Now carefully remove the duck tape from the glass and lower the glass gently into the clamps. With the window in the half open position you can then easily retighten the clamps. 14/ Use the button to lower the window completely. Now spray silicone lubricant (also avaibable from Halfords) on the 3 surfaces of the window opening to ensure that the glass does not stick against the door felts when in the closed position. 15/ Refit your speaker with a rivit gun or other suitable fixings. Refit door cards and job is done Hope this helps