cpcpeter

@CLAYTONJONES What's been happening? Thread's cold

I imagined just getting aftermarket rods and pistons should the day come when I change out the block.

Block, matched crank, bolts, oil pump and sump.

I had my box refurbed by Stuart at ASK Transmissions. He used to have his own workshop in Falkirk and is now relocated with a unit outside his house in Denny. Highly recommend. 07702 818 507 is his number. I have put this five speed box under my stairs now as it was taking up space in the garage - it's sat next to the brand new (from VW) Lupo GTi engine block complete with crank. One day I'll do something with it! I'll leave this five speed box for sale until I need space for more shite.

Going in the skip

Title: 5spd Gearbox, recent refurb (approx 100k miles) Description: I swapped my 2001 Lupo GTi 5 speed 'box to a 6 speed so this original 5 speed 'box is now available. Before I got the 6 speed I jad the 5 speed professionally refurbished changing the bearings, oil, upgraded an internal changing fork, cleaned and painted and upgraded with a Quaife diff - NOTE: I transplanted the diff from the 5spd to the 6spd, so the 5 speed will come with the open diff installed secured with ARP bolts. Location: Central belt, Scotland. Postage: £60 pallet Price: £100

The coolant must somehow act as an electrolyte and interacts with the metals in the engine. If the engine begins to corrode I’m guessing the electrolyte will begin to contain more ions which will increase the potential difference, so the lower the number the better! I don’t know exactly how it works but it’s a tip often referred to in Car Mechanics magazine.

While antifreeze properties of the coolant may last a while (and can be easily checked with a refractometer) the anti-corrosion properties do reduce over time. Easy way of checking this is with a warm but not hot engine, carefully open up the expansion tank, dip in the positive of a multimeter set to volts and the other to a good engine ground. Readings over 600mV mean the anticorrosion properties are starting to deteriorate and worth renewing. Up to around 400mV is acceptable.

@lupo1.0se No I didn't, not at all! I'll PM you, thanks!!

I've been meaning to get round to this for a while... don't know if many know I'm a writer for Car Mechanics magazine, but an opportunity came about to write about my Lupo. Enjoy the attachment! Hard copies of Car Mechanics are available here: https://shop.kelsey.co.uk/single-issue/car-mechanics-magazine/532 473517106_OCLupoGTITroubleMay-23.pdf

Hi chap, its from JC clubsport. Was going to get one for myself but it’s cosmetic only I think. No point for my track Lupo.

No-one is going to reply to you here chap. Best to make a separate thread on your questions.

Black seats all the way.

Didn’t want to steal too much of your thread but that was my GTi remapped on a Dyno Dynamics and got a hair under 160hp with 135 lb/ft from 2200 all the way to 6450. Was hoping a little more so not sure if my cylinder head guy was that good (was a shot in the dark to be fair) or I’m running a Dbilas intake. It was designed in mind for the 1.4 but will obvs fit the 1.6. I had it port matched both ends just in case. I expect the head could have maybe done better. Tuner thought the Catcams did a good job of keeping the torque so flat all the way through. Drives very well though have to say AND it’s kept a 200-cell cat. And I agree Clayton, I reckon 50bhp more would be just the sweet spot! But I’m stopping there power wise now otherwise the engine bay will be just a money pit!

Bit over 3 bar then for you, but I've got brand new cylinder head, cam carrier and cams so it's probably pushing up the pressure over worn ones (mines over 60psi at maximum). To be fair I don't think the little Lupo's chassis will be too comfortable with much more power anyway. I'd keep it with the same engine and use the money on something else if I were you. Or wait until at least your current engine expires which forces you to do a transplant for something tastier.