cpcpeter

@CLAYTONJONES Awesome stuff. I was all set on getting the CAE but may change my mind then if you think the feel is better. Do you have to hack apart the shift weight on top of the 'box? Did you manage to fit the cams without needing both VW locking tools? I cannot for the life of me find one of them! Could you drive the cams on the standard ECU or did the engine complain?

@LR5V Although I have removed the factory pressure switch, the aftermarket one has its own warning system incorporated into it, namely the entire face flashes red and a very loud buzzer goes off. Fully adjustable, which is handy too.

Thank you for this!

Clayton, are your enkei's lighter than your superleggeras, or are they ultralegerras? What spacers you running and what is the ET on your alloys? Looks like a cracking setup. Are pads quite expensive for your Wilwoods? For your shifter, did you have to drill through the floorpan like you would with a CAE kit? Who did your cams/tuning? Is it on the factory ECU?

Hi! Has anyone fitted an aftermarket rev gauge to their Lupo? I've recently done this by hooking the signal wire to pin 1 of the coil pack but need to make the gauge go to 2-cylinder mode to work correctly and it's a bit lazy. Where can I pick up a proper signal to use? Looking at Elsawin wiring diagrams the actual wires to the factory tacho are within the cluster itself and I was hoping to hook into the loom rather than split open the cluster itself.. TIA!

Bypass the connection in fuse number 28 This is a mini 5A. Mine blew the other day and the ECU lost connection with the immobiliser because of the blown fuse. Even with the right key it wouldn't start (or allow me to view the ECU through diagnostics) until I replaced the fuse.

Hi all, for those who have fitted an oil pressure gauge to their engines, I’ve just done this to my GTi (Swapped out the pressure switch for it and grounded the original wire out of the way) and it seems to max out at around 4 bar after 4k revs or so at 80C. Is this due to oil pressure regulation in the oil pump or a limitation of the oil pressure gauge’s location on the head? Elsawin seems to suggest pressure shouldn’t exceed 7 bar and should be greater than or equal to 2 bar at 2k revs at 80C. I’m getting very good pressure at 2k of 3 bar at 80C just that it tops out at 4 bar.. I’ll be going on track days for the GTi so want to ensure good pressure at high rpm. Pete.

The hint is in the engine re-build. Clearly the supercharger isn't suitable for the engine setup and it blew the first time 'round. Now is getting sold before it happens again.

Modified speakers? If so, water can leak around them from the inside of the door, dribble along the inner door seal and then, depending on the inclination of the car will dribble down in the footwell. It was this that ruined my carpets, so took them out and then decided to make my GTi a track car.. removed pretty much everything from the interior and sealed up the speaker holes with aluminium flashing :) Assuming you don't want to convert your Lupo into a track car I'd advise to use a bit of sealant around the speakers when you pull the lower door card off.

See links! https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/vw-lupo-gti-charcoal-headliner-headlining/1277176271 https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/vw-lupo-gti-rear-seatbelts-in-gti-red/1277176749 https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/vw-gamma-radio-cassette-with-cd-player-code/1277177721

I'm needing the main lower bolt in the door hinge if you have it. It looks like a small (6mm ish) hex head but some may have a rubber cover over them.

I thought I knew a fair bit about cars but this seems to be a bit of a revelation to me... never stop learning I guess...!!

I'd like to revive this thread with a question - was the Lupo GTi doors designed to take water into the door?? Seems really odd to design it that way. The first time I spotted the wet interior doors I presumed there was an issue and was thinking of ways of sealing the entire inner door! I have aftermarket speakers and have noticed the rears of both are quite wet, so will have to securely waterproof the electrical connections!

Strange, my handle isn't too bad. You may want to ensure your bonnet catch mechanism is nicely lubed up - I stripped mine down completely and cleaned out all the gunk to help it move nicely. I did remove the interior handle last week to see if I could get rid of the bit of slack that's formed in the cable but couldn't see any way of adjusting it when I had it out which was a bit disappointing. I think as long as it opens up the bonnet with less tension on the cable then I'll be happy with that!

Glad I could help - look forward to hearing back how you got on with it!