Subframe bolt size

[BioTriffid]

Hello everyone just needing to know what size this bolt is so I can get a replacement as I'm updating the front subframe soon as I've redone the rear axle after it split!

I'm using @littlekev photo here just to show you what one I mean.

 

Any help as always will be much appreciated

Thank you

Kieran

[lupogtiboy]

I believe its this one you need

[scotty2]

Yup. M12.

[mk2]

Lots of pics please @BioTriffid. I need to do this on 3 lupos. 

[BioTriffid]

6 hours ago, mk2 said:

 @BioTriffid

6 hours ago, mk2 said:

 @BioTriffid

@mk2

I have a similar situation where the captive nuts are broken off inside so from a previous repair I've just welded extra length to the nut and covered the hole again but I have a full subframe replacement and lower arms and track rod ends to fit.

The old subframe is not repairable as it's had a hard life after 20+ years on the road but I'll keep you posted on this feed still have to find torque specs for everything on the front subframe.

 

But I do have some rear axle pictures to share with you all just so you know what to expect.

 

With the rear axle I didn't take it to a sandblaster like the last time as I think it cause more damage to the steel and top tip never use hammerite paint it's not long lasting or provide any protection from the elements.

I can provide paints and advice if needed from my process I used to achieve better results.

Alot of wire wheels on drills and grinders is good takes a lot of time but worth the results in the end.

 

Also thanks for the help guys I got two bolts brand new from VW only cost 11.90 not bad to keep original and safety is keep after all.

[BioTriffid]

Here is more on the rear axle and the products used

Kurust is applied after you have spent days using wire wheels, it basically turns rust into something more sturdy I'd say dunno how but it works make sure you remove as much rust as possible before using it, that small pot with a small brush will cover the entire axle or whatever you are using it on plus up can go over it as many times as you need but please do use old clothes as it stains anything it touches even the ground so use cardboard or some kind of protection. 

 

Rust primer is then applied to the piece nice thick coat it gets into all the areas again with a small brush taking time to apply it get every area, can reapply as needed.

Give it a light sand and you can get a gray primer on top of that then your set for whatever color (colour?) You want.

 

I did 2 clear coats on top of all of that locking it all in.

Hopefully this helps someone else i know it's probably not the right way about doing it but I thought it turned out well and I didn't have much time to get it finished. 

[mk2]

I have two spare frames (f&r) in for sandblasting at the mo... And then I'm going to 'attempt' to get a place to galvanise them. The thing that concerns me is how to get to the inside. Being a hollow section, I imagine that during manufacture they never ever coated the inside with anything. They're not phosphate dipped like the bodyshell is, only spray painted black on the outside.

Once blasted, the 'clean' steel components are pickled (whatever that is? anyone?), then oven baked then zinc dipped. That should buy me a few more years.

Excellent pics. Totally shocked at the cracks on the rear frame. Never seen that before. I had assumed that when they fail, the welds quit after severe corrosion. Wow, just wow.

[Rich]

Nice flex cracks.

[BioTriffid]

I've seen it split from the bushes before the entire loop ripps out! 

 

Not sure what the inside could be coated with maybe a wax or grease can be used but it's a matter of applying it I did shoot a can of spray in the openings.

[mk2]

5 hours ago, Rich said:

Nice flex cracks.

Yeah, but in that location? That's meant to be a rigid section (a tube between beam and hub). I've seen pics of the bush mounting tube separate from the rest, the spring flange plate fall off and severe corrosion just hear the bush mounting tubes. But this one is a first for me!

Need to get me a snake endescope cam thing. Then I can actually get in there and have a look. But there isn't much you can do...

[BioTriffid]

That's a good call just to see what's going on in the area you can't see if only there was a spray straw type contraption to get the insides of parts.

[BioTriffid]

Afternoon all here is a few cross cut photos of the rear axle that I've just scraped now just an inside what to expect if you are doing the axle change or repair.

 

Hopefully this guys you an idea what to expect.

 

Kieran

Edited May 15, 2023 by BioTriffid
Spelling mistake

[BioTriffid]

Pictures are not showing for some reason 

[tigcraft]

Mine needs doing as much as I’ve done the front subframe already. I’ve noisy rear suspension but I suspect it’s the main bush to the body oscillating  but the MOT place never bloody fails it even though I told them to fail it on everything that might be at the slightest worn. 
@mk2 pickling is the last acid bath before the galv. They usually drill 5mm holes in opposite ends of any cavity. 
@BioTriffid Unfortunately your axle will need far more prepping if you want it even to last a full year. 

A better way if using just mechanical sanding is a 4 1/2’ twist knot wire wheel and keep turning the wheel over to keep its bite. They are mentally dangerous and have an aggressive bite that’ll put you in hospital if your focus drops. Also use a quality flap disc and a 13x 457 belt sander for the nooks n crannies as well as a tungsten die grinder. 
All that is a lot of work but will do it 70% of a good sand blast job. 
 

 

[BioTriffid]

@tigcraft yeah I was using all kinds of wire bits on drills and grinders even flap disc sanders Dremel tools for tight spaces most of the original factory paint would not move dunno what they use but it sure is tough hopefully the rust treatment and however many coats of paint I did will hold up for a while.

 

I was thinking about a VW up axle if they fit or a fix maybe?

 

My bushes are now powerflex the old ones were completely egg shaped the metal was bushing part in the rubber had some strange markings on it.

 

I'll find some pictures of the old standard bushes.

[BioTriffid]

Here are the original factory bushes if someone can explain how the metal piece got them dents.

[mk2]

Well, yeah, you've proven my fears... I have no idea how the insides of the subframes will be galvanised. Zinc will not stick to rust, so we'll see (or maybe not see...).

Those dents aren't dents. That is iron bacteria actually eating your car. Yes, it's true. There is a life form on earth that eats iron (steel). Big problem in shipping apparently. Once the little bugs get under the paint and it stays damp, they thrive and dissolve the metal away. Different to corrosion or oxidation. They also live around deep ocean thermal volcano vents, living off high iron deposits.

[tigcraft]

@mk2thought your were taking the piss but I’ve just googled it and I’m amazed!!