tigcraft

Be careful with wishbones as I found out. Two types = different sizes

Well I’m glad this is not my only car as its been ages since I started the ‘wishbone’ research.... Anyway the answer I discovered to my head bashing problem was definitely the wishbones, as I’ve found out there are two types, early and late, I was supplied early ones by the look of it from a seller on eBay, it was too late to refund them as I bought them months ago so I’ve a spare set now. The difference is 8mm in length from the front bush to the bottom ball join, going in a transverse direction. luckily local GSF motor factors had some in stock. This time the NS drive shaft clears the subframe on heavy braking and opposite rotation on reversing. Now to play the ‘tracking’ game!

That must have taken ages to edit that lot. It looks very busy and complicated on those pics. Summat I don’t ever understand until it’s in bits in front of me. It’s good to know btw about the plastic around the 5th gear melting if oil is low so I’ll make sure now mines right before it goes back on the road.

Clean at the hubs first as no one ever does.

Arosa has no rear reflectors either for the next MOT BTW.

Ditto as above. It’s a delicate task repairing vehicle to a ‘professional’ std and most people can’t do it. They are a labour of love and in this case the car mentioned is just not worth it. A lot of people don’t see the work in it and as much as you help them and explain they are stubborn and have to learn the hard way.

That’s very pretty, it’s like a cute ‘jewel’. I always thought that colour looked old but that’s complimented it all

Whoever’s bought it deserves it!

Agreed!

Then there’s front panel, bonnet hinges always go and possibly runs into a corner windscreen break, intercooler, radiator, alternator, boot floor and possibly any door gap trailing edges to stretch back. Doing one end is enough on any car. Done it professionally for decades and it gets tiring then got into restoration!!

I see it at £600 and that’s generous. You’ve engine, box, average gti interior, wheels and a few bits of ‘free’ trim to balance the value. There’s labour to pick it up and a day to break it, label it and shelve what’s rest. A breaker would pay £300- £400 that’s all

It’s too expensive to repair which is the problem even done on the cheap. You end up with a 170k car and on the hit list for £3k done if it’s to it’s previous well kept condition. It’s also too expensive as a parts car

Servus! Wie gehts?

Welcome in.....

That’s what I paid for my shields. It’s a lot of money for something very minimalist but I’ve seen so many corners cut underneath as it’s ‘not seen’ on cars I was determined to fit the lot. I’ve to sort the brake flexis out as yet so that’s still to do. Re-wishbone bottom ball joint bolts, yes mine were not tight nor were they right way round either. When I corrected all that the bolts were like cheese so I had to replace them with 8.8 grade (possibly could have got harder grade). I still can’t fathom out why they’re not right although listed for ‘lupo’ and @MK2 recons they are all same

Wheel bearing by the sounds

I don’t have an answer to the drive shaft striking the subframe when it didn’t touch before I fitted new wishbones. Unfortunately the old ones have been weighed in to do an accurate comparison

Posted on another one of my threads but probably better to start a new one. Lupo 2318mm wheel base Arosa 2323mm?? Where the 5mm at? After putting my suspension back together on my Tdi Arosa with my new ‘lupo’ wishbones I noticed the nsf making a noise and found out that the drive shaft is catching the subframe only on braking when the suspension is compressed. I’ve temporarily set the track control arms but my steering wheel can’t be set level. Any ideas?

The fun continues..... Slotted every thing together and wondered why the tracking was so way out as I didn’t meddle with it.... The steering wheel was well out too and I’ve been scratching my head trying to work things out. Wishbones are brand new and complete with ball joints and arb drop links..... Anyway on to a different matter, i set things up as temp for the time being just so I could get it to a laser track. I ran it for about 15 miles and it was all over the place. I started to hear a sound on the nsf when braking that got worse. The car since then has been left parked up on the opposite side of my house and I was studying it today. I thought the front wheel just doesn’t look central in the arch. I jacked it up dropped the nsf wheel and noticed the drive shaft balance weight has been rubbing on the subframe on braking. It wasn’t until then that I realised the wishbones are wrong and it dawned on me that the arosa has a longer wheel base therefore longer wishbones?! WTF? Why are they not the same?

How bad is yours as I’ve just reconditioned mine back to original without too much hassle. Hardest part was waiting for the blaster to clean it

I thought that as well, cheap car no matter. I’ve been watching it too

Thank you both for that and yes I’m a real forum member that makes noise, swears and farts! 🤪

Just swapped my Arosa 1.4 Tdi 19mm anti roll bar for a gti 22mm with matching bushes and no problem at all. The two main brackets on the subframe as exactly the same and the 22mm bush just bolted straight in.

Excuse me for being thick but I need more education on ‘bots’ as what’s the purpose of one?

I can see that from your point of view and understand but my experience is totally different. Over the last forty something years I’ve been dabbling in cars and some of the most fascinating and interesting vehicles I’ve come across to own have all been from breakers yards. I’m a restorer by trade so I buy vehicles which I think are professionally profitable. Just because a car is in a breakers doesn’t mean it’s crashed. There’s a lot of naive car owners out there scrapping good honest cars in better condition for example than some of the public taxis you and I get around in. In this particular case with the lupo in mind the cost overran the value but....... these high spec cars are like bespoke suits and tailored to suit the owners. As the Lupo’s have reached ‘cult’ status now its normal for owners to use them as long term ‘safe’ enjoyable investments even if they cost more than market value.