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Everything posted by scotty2

  1. Well, finished putting it back together and test driven. All seems well. Managed to get a good pedal by bleeding the brakes via the hose to hub joint. Been dropped off for an MOT this morning. Refurbished subframe, new control arms and ball joints, CV joint, new wheel bearings, discs, pads, gearbox oil seal, and a new fuel filter when I can get the old one off. It's still fighting me!
  2. Update. Gearbox seal that was sent was wrong. Now have fitted another one with some black silicon sealer. All good at last! Spent Sunday afternoon re-assembling and made good progress. All was well until I found the screw that holds the disc on had been sheared off so I will drill it out and re-tap. Just got the NS calliper and disc to fit then it is brake bleeding time, without the bleed nipples as they are rusted in. I'll just slacken the pipes and see what sort of pedal that gets me. ETA photo of welded on pin.
  3. Got the pins welded on. Right so installation is the reverse of removal... Gear selector rod oil seal was weeping so I ordered a new one to change while the subframe was off. Old one a bugger to get out but managed. Put new one in and refilled the box. Came back next day and oil all under the ramp. Leaking worse than ever now. Box drained and seal removed. New one ordered. Will need some sealant in the housing I think.
  4. If I can't get a sufficient weld, I'll go down that route. Just ordered an XZN or triple square drive set. Also spent a few minutes on WIKI to try and find out why there are so many bloody different types... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#:~:text=the driver bit.-,Triple-square (XZN),a 12-pointed star).
  5. Right. I have decided to do the "bolt" conversion similar to the diff pins on a TR6. Sourced some M12 bolts, cut the head off and ground a taper ready for welding. Ground the chassis leg ready for welding too. Hopefully rebuilding will start at the weekend! ETA: What XZN size are the driveshaft bolts?
  6. After another battle, the hubs and driveshafts are off! On the 6 Torx 40 setscrews that hold on the driveshafts, 5 on each side came free but one on each side didn't, and the splines tore in the setscrew. Had to grind the head off. Went back to the car next day to see if I would have to weld a nut on the remains of the screw to loosen them, and I could wind them out by hand! Has the car finally given up on resisting restoration? Captive nut job next. Maybe at the weekend...
  7. Well, unusually for me, they were the correct ones. Can't get the bloody driveshafts out of the hubs now. Going to have to take the shaft and hub off as one. At least I have built up the replacement subframe, arms and roll bar ready to go on.
  8. Got the Bugger! Worst job is now the replacement of the "captive nuts" Oh, and putting it all back together... On a better note, when pricing up ball joints, I can get whole replacement arms with ball joints for not much more, so to save work I have ordered replacement arms.
  9. After a bit of neglect, I have started the exchange. Every nut and bolt rusted to buggery. I have had to change tack and drop the frame out with the wishbones attached as I can't get the strut bolts off. Or brake callipers. As predicted the front two "captive" nuts in the chassis are not. Gave up for a week then with renewed vigour, borrowed a plumber mates Mapp gas torch to free off the exhaust nuts - all 4 then came off without shearing. I then attacked the front mount bolts with a battery powered reciprocating saw which cut them off. Thought that was it but there are more bits to disconnect around the gear linkage. Hopefully then I can lower it down and finish releasing the strut tops to drop the bugger off. The car is not really worth it, but I've started and it is going to a good home...
  10. Wire brushed, rustproofed and painted, ready to play. That was the easy bit... Thanks Rich. While it is being stripped down, I have got new discs, pads and wheel bearings to fit.
  11. Great. When and where suits you?
  12. I was hoping to do a quick swap rather than get the original repaired. For reference, which options are there from other models that would fit? To contact me offline - use "Scotty2" on Pistonheads for PMs. Don't know how to send direct messages on this forum...
  13. I can do that! Somewhere near "The Reptile Hotel"?? Can we send a personal mail in this system to get directions?
  14. I have to replace the subframe on our 2002 1.0 Lupo for the MOT. I have tried e-bay and searching this forum but I am still not sure what the alternate fittings are regarding Arosa, Polo e.t.c. Can someone tell me what subframes from other models will fit a standard 1.0 2002 Lupo? Or has anyone got a decent one for sale. I'm in East Yorkshire. Scotty2
  15. King Henry now painted.
  16. King Henry now resprayed.
  17. Don't bother with the rebuild kits. Just buy a complete lock and key. £7 ea. Or you can get two locks with one key for about £20. I bought two of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-PASSAT-LUPO-SEAT-AROSA-COMPLETE-DOOR-LOCK-SET-with-2-KEYS-FRONT-LEFT-NSF/222048496944?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  18. I got mine (2 short ones and the long one that comes round to the front to the pump) from: Mobile Fluid Ltd trading as Power Steering Store <sales@powersteeringstore.co.uk> http://www.powersteeringstore.co.uk/
  19. I just used Bay of E ones. Too early to say if it was wise, but for £12, it was worth a try. If she is 13 years older, then she may be getting nearer my age so I won't be seen as an old perv. Just a perv!
  20. Just did the door straps on our Lupo 1.4S. Not as bad as I thought it was going to be. 10 mins each side after watching a rather nice young lady on Youtube showing me how to do it. Fortunately, my nails are not quite so long or painted... Screwdriver, 10mm long socket, Coppaslip, and we were done.
  21. Sorry, no. The guy who looked at it certainly seems to know his stuff. It was an "EGR flow low" error according to the scanner.
  22. Had a cheap EGR valve fitted for MOT on a 1.0 2002 Lupo and not long after the light came back on. Managed to find a VW trained mechanic to do some work on it as we are selling it. Just had the EGR system checked out and confirmed all pipes clear. Valve even operates when commanded but he thinks is is just not letting enough flow through as there is not the movement he was expecting. Can anyone recommend an EGR valve that works for a reasonable sum? Plenty on Bay of E for about £20 but I don't want a repeat of it failing so soon. Ta. Scotty2
  23. Very Nice! That's two saved between us!
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