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Chris-M

Fuse 30 Circuit on GTI

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Hi Guys.

Anyone come across a common component on fuse 30 that shorts and takes it out?

i have a number of fault codes and an EML warning on the cash. MOT imminent of course. Did have one 2 years ago - small heater in the crankcase breather pipe, but I replaced that with a new OEM part. I have been unsuccessfully hunting Earth point faults for this. Now I’m not so sure. Fuse 18 had gone as well, but I’m 90% that will just be the heated mirrors. I need to get a new ticket on the Lupo, so any help would be appreciated..

VCDS faults are:

17911 Load signal from alternator term DF P1503 implausible 

17935 Cam Timing Adg Bank 1 n205 P1527short to ground

16394 Bank. 1 Camshaft Intake P0010 Position actuator malfunction

17833 EVAP Purge valve N80 P1425 35-00 Short to ground

N80 - has anyone ever had one of these short to ground? Seems to always pop up on the fault lists regardless.

N205 is it as obvious as a dud N205 component? I seem to recall it can be something really random and unrelated?

 

Cheers- Chris

 

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Didn’t think eml came into it anymore?

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Not an expert on gti... but usually shorts to ground mean that the supply to the sensor (5v) is non existant. So the ECU sees the input signal voltage from a sensor as 0 (earth) instead of somewhere in the range of 0.5 - 4.5 ish. Which means "a line" providing power to the ECU isn't. Inside the ECU there's a voltage regulator circuit that chucks out a perfect reference 5V for all the sensors. It gets that from the main 12V feed, which I'm guessing is absent. Sooooo, that fuse that has gone also supplies the ECU by my guess. It's usually a switched feed, either via the ignition key or a main power relay. I have no wiring diagram, but I'd search around the ignition or fuse area, or maybe that relay if there is one. I'd be surprised if a component has failed as 30A is some big current. My guess would be loom or wiring fault?

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Thanks Mk2 - That makes sense as fuse 30 is one of the 5A engine electrics fuses. Which items are on these fuses, I don’t know. I have replaced the blown fuse, and cleared the fault. Will see if it reappears and blows the fuse again. I’m hoping it’s not a random short, as that could take a while to trace. 

Edited by Chris-M

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8 hours ago, Chris-M said:

Yes Pete. Any engine dash light up is a fail now.

That’s wierd, mine went through last month with it on the dash.

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This been parked up for a while  - Have you tried jump leads to get this going?

They may have popped the fuses

2 hours ago, Pete said:

That’s weird, mine went through last month with it on the dash.

It would seem Pete you have a considerate tester who used discretion, hold onto them if you can!

Since updated MOT rules earlier this year an illuminated EML is meant to be a straight fail - due to this reason I got my nickers into a right old twist worrying about getting mine fixed!

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Same situation here with wanting to get it fixed!

No - car is used not daily, but a few times a week. 

Yesterday I fitted a new 5A fuse and started the car. Cleared the code, and the light went out.

Started it this morning and after a few moves back and forth to turn round on the drive, the light was back on. I missed the point it popped up. Cold start today and ice on the car. Had a quick look and fuse 30 has gone again.

So, where to start? I don't actually know where the N205 & N80 are, or what they look like.

Cheers - Chris.

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N205 is camshaft adjuster and N80 is the valve for the charcoal canister, both are run off the same fuse as the heater for the breather pipe, so I'd disconnect that, pop in a new fuse and see if it goes again. My guess is it won't.

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Thanks. Do you mean disconnect the breather heater? I seem to remember you had this? It was your post that pointed me at the breather last time. I replaced that part with a new one from TPS, and my fault went away, but I guess it could have gone again. Will start there, as its the last thing that was touched.

N205 I guess is located up on the end of the cam cover? N80  Purge valve, roughly where is that located?

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14 minutes ago, Chris-M said:

N205 I guess is located up on the end of the cam cover? N80  Purge valve, roughly where is that located?

image.png.979677b27710f4766fb733c6f4cd4004.png

At least if its popping in such short time you wont take long to isolate what item is causing the problem - good luck & get a lot of fuses

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Pulled the plug from the crankcase breather heater. Replaced the 5A fuse. Drove home. Fuse intact. Cleared the fault codes. Just been out for a drive - no light and fuse is still intact.

So, at the moment it looks like the breather heater is the culprit? Could it be the wiring to the heater? Pretty surprised as I replaced the heater and breather assembly under a year ago?

Edited by Chris-M

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Seeing as you don't really need it in the UK, I'd just leave it unplugged and go from there.

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Could someone be so kind as to point out where the breather heater is so I can disconnect as it looks like I have the same fault. Have not N80 & N205 faults & fise 30 5A dude popped. 

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It's hard to see on this crappy ETKA picture, but its on the hose that runs from the airbox to the breather box on the rear of the engine, I believe the plug is roughly in the middle of the hose

breather.jpg

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7 hours ago, lupogtiboy said:

It's hard to see on this crappy ETKA picture, but its on the hose that runs from the airbox to the breather box on the rear of the engine, I believe the plug is roughly in the middle of the hose

breather.jpg

Brilliant, thanks very much for that. 

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On 3/20/2019 at 4:30 PM, Bems said:

Brilliant, thanks very much for that. 

Right I’ve located the plug now can anyone shed some light as to how it bloody unclips?! I’ve got the air box off for access but can’t get it to unclip for the life of me! 

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Usually on these plugs, you push the connector towards the thing you're trying to disconnect it from, push down on the little tab, then pull it away from said sensor. Image shows the plug. Don't use a screwdriver as it will snap off the lug should you ever want to re-connect the plug in the future.

 

 

breather plug.jpg

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Have had the same issues and changed the pipe and heater only for it to fail some months later. However also got the EVAP valve fault as well, changed this valve and the pipe and this resolved the issue. Not sure how the two are related as the EVAP seems to recycle fuel fumes from the tank and the heater helps to reduce 'mayo' in the oil recirc pipe.

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They are both powered by the same fuse, along with the camshaft actuator

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