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Chris-M

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Everything posted by Chris-M

  1. After a bit of research on here and a phone call, it seems you can still get the front pillar and sill assembly back as far as the B post. Approx 150 a side, which is not that bad. Paying someone to cut it out, weld the new in then make good and paint it will be more than the panel. 6E3 809 839A - N/S 6E3 809 840A - O/S
  2. How did you sort it in the end? I take it no panels available? Was into 60s minis years ago, so I have a sense of humour when it comes to sills / corrosion.
  3. It's one of those 'do you really want to start chopping it out' jobs, or just clean it up cosmetically and keep it at bay. Ultimately, it will keep coming back, but it passes MOT OK. If I was keeping it, I'd just clean it all up, paint it and fill the area inside with Bilt Hamber. Cutting it out, you'd still end up grafting in pieces, weld and bare metal inside would still need protection and the outside would still need a load of filler etc. Left long enough it will really start to fall apart, and need chopping out.
  4. Thanks for all the replies. A few pictures below. Its not a total shed, but its on its way to being one. If I could do the bodywork myself, it would be viable. But paying someone, especially down here in the south east blows it out the water. Its too good to break. I have another money pit of the roughly the same age, so really need to concentrate on one or the other. No way is it worth 2.5 - 3. I'd want one with no bodywork needed for that. Is it worth 1500? Cheers - Chris.
  5. Hi. 2002 Six Speed Silver Golf ball / nobbly bits on a deers head size dents. Dinged it on the leading edge by the light and above the centre of the arch. Yes they are aluminium. Will get some pictures at the weekend, but TBH it looks pretty good in photos.
  6. Hi All. I have run my GTI for a while now. Maintained it, replaced parts where needed etc. Body has always been poor, and was on my list of things to do, although its questionable due to the cost of paintwork whether it was worth doing or not. Usual bubbling at the base of the drivers door, a dent in the rear 1/4, stone chipped bonnet, lacquer lift on front and rear bumpers, bubbling at the tail gate handle. Bubbling at front end of sills. Flies through its MOT every year and gets used and abused as the shopping car, everyday transport etc. Sadly an altercation with a deer over the holiday has sealed its fate as far as me putting it in a body shop. Front nearside wing now has two dents, as does the rear 1/4 to match the drivers side. Its on 120K now, got a noisy starter, but otherwise its MOT'd and fine. So what i'd like a guesstimate at is what is it worth? Shall I stick it in the for sale here, or is it an ebay job? I will be sad to see it go, as its good fun, but it really is in need of bodywork now, and I know I will never do it. In my ownership its had a new screen, discs and pads, toyos, two springs, rear shocks, alternator, cam belt and service. has a spare set of Bathursts with legal tyres as well. Any ideas?
  7. Thanks all. I borrowed a support beam - fantastic thing, not used one before. Hooked it straight onto the engine lifting eye. Undid the three LH engine mount bolts and lowered the engine, slipped bolt out and wiggled the alternator off. Undid the cables with it loose by the Rad. It just about wriggles out without removing anything other than the connector clipped to the slam panel. Green corrosion visible up at the regulator wiring. Fortunately had a spare complete alternator to fit. Worst part for me was winding the tensioner round enough to get the belt back on the alternator pulley, without the wrench handle pushing the belt away from where you want it to go. Its all very tight! Scan, cleared codes and re-scan. All looks good, and idle back to normal. This is a pretty quick job with the right tools, and knowing how to approach it. I put the feet of the beam in line with the wing bolts. The wings are very thin and flexible. I just watched the engine mount until I saw the motor start to lift. Get ham fisted with it and I bet you could do a lot of damage.
  8. Nostalgia! Being towed home after breaking down. Alternator dead, battery flat. Just whip that off then. Err, no. Screws for reg are partially obscured and seized. No way of getting that bottom bolt out without dropping the engine?
  9. Cheers. Not having sourced one before, whats the usual score? Take the alternator off to try and identify it? I have no idea if its Bosch or Valeo etc. Or can I get a part number from the brush assembly itself?
  10. 8 months of ignoring it.... Now I have a proper fault. Alternator dash light is on and engine idle is high. Once revs reach 2800 - 3000, light goes out. Sometimes it comes back on when revs drop at a junction. Sometimes not. Even after light has gone out and after a 10 mile drive, the idle is still sitting at about 1100-1200 rpm. The obvious conclusion is alternator on the way out. But I think this could be related to the earths. I found a few down on the gearbox side wing, but never found the others. Can someone point me in the right direction? Any thoughts on this alternator / idle issue? Cheers - Chris.
  11. Ahh - thanks, I get it. I was thinking the nozzles 1&2 were a moving part inside 5. My mistake. So clip on 5 is a bit like those things on the electrical connectors?
  12. Now the Zen moment has worn off.... I have two new bits - 1 & 2 in the drawing above. Reading through, these are pulled back into part 5 by a spring? I see no spring on the drawing. I assume it hooks onto 1 & 2 somewhere? I have not attempted to get the old ones off the car yet.
  13. Chris-M

    GTI starter motor

    Anyone got a good starter for a GTI? Mine is a 6 speed if that makes any difference. Just after a nice quiet one that doesn't sound like a horse with a cough. Cheers.
  14. Thanks Rich. Your post has helped me on the path to enlightenment. I feel a sensation of calm and well being reading your words of wisdom.
  15. A question related to this: Activating the headlamp washers, I get water hosing everywhere - onto the headlamp, up the bonnet, sideways etc. Its an effective water cannon. Minimal fluid going onto the screen itself from the screen jets, especially drivers side. Am I correct this is unrelated, as there are separate pumps for screen and headlamps? Screen washers could be partially blocked, or pipework is leaking, although I can't see washer fluid pouring out. Headlamp washers don't leak when retracted. Is the fluid going everywhere more likely to be split components, or the o-rings? Great write up on maintenance. I am really not looking forward to dismantling these.
  16. Pulled the plug from the crankcase breather heater. Replaced the 5A fuse. Drove home. Fuse intact. Cleared the fault codes. Just been out for a drive - no light and fuse is still intact. So, at the moment it looks like the breather heater is the culprit? Could it be the wiring to the heater? Pretty surprised as I replaced the heater and breather assembly under a year ago?
  17. Perfect - much appreciated. Will have a tinker.
  18. Thanks. Do you mean disconnect the breather heater? I seem to remember you had this? It was your post that pointed me at the breather last time. I replaced that part with a new one from TPS, and my fault went away, but I guess it could have gone again. Will start there, as its the last thing that was touched. N205 I guess is located up on the end of the cam cover? N80 Purge valve, roughly where is that located?
  19. Same situation here with wanting to get it fixed! No - car is used not daily, but a few times a week. Yesterday I fitted a new 5A fuse and started the car. Cleared the code, and the light went out. Started it this morning and after a few moves back and forth to turn round on the drive, the light was back on. I missed the point it popped up. Cold start today and ice on the car. Had a quick look and fuse 30 has gone again. So, where to start? I don't actually know where the N205 & N80 are, or what they look like. Cheers - Chris.
  20. Thanks Mk2 - That makes sense as fuse 30 is one of the 5A engine electrics fuses. Which items are on these fuses, I don’t know. I have replaced the blown fuse, and cleared the fault. Will see if it reappears and blows the fuse again. I’m hoping it’s not a random short, as that could take a while to trace.
  21. Yes Pete. Any engine dash light up is a fail now.
  22. Hi Guys. Anyone come across a common component on fuse 30 that shorts and takes it out? i have a number of fault codes and an EML warning on the cash. MOT imminent of course. Did have one 2 years ago - small heater in the crankcase breather pipe, but I replaced that with a new OEM part. I have been unsuccessfully hunting Earth point faults for this. Now I’m not so sure. Fuse 18 had gone as well, but I’m 90% that will just be the heated mirrors. I need to get a new ticket on the Lupo, so any help would be appreciated.. VCDS faults are: 17911 Load signal from alternator term DF P1503 implausible 17935 Cam Timing Adg Bank 1 n205 P1527short to ground 16394 Bank. 1 Camshaft Intake P0010 Position actuator malfunction 17833 EVAP Purge valve N80 P1425 35-00 Short to ground N80 - has anyone ever had one of these short to ground? Seems to always pop up on the fault lists regardless. N205 is it as obvious as a dud N205 component? I seem to recall it can be something really random and unrelated? Cheers- Chris
  23. Six months later... I'd better sort this. This is on a GTI, so plugs I am looking for are the same - on the gearbox bracket? I thought it would be easy to trace this and find the earths etc. Found two facing forward by the passenger side light. One 13mm nut one 10mm with a brown on it. Stupidly hard to get in there.
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