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oprn

Greetings from the Canada!

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You need get reducer or spigot rings to ensure the wheel sits on the flange, which is what centres the wheel, not the bolts.

You will need to know the dia. of the wheel centre and get one where the outer = that and the inner is 57.1mm for the flange.

https://www.performancealloys.com/accessories/spigot-rings

...different to studs and nuts of old.

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Well, it certainly would be worth a try. I have a lathe so given a bit of time could make my own.

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On one of my strip cars, I used to get the wheels bolt hole balanced- similar issue to you I'm thinking. Think old beetle wheels- they have no central round hole. The jig is accurately fitted between two cones on the machine balancing shaft to centralise it. Then the bolt rig with taper points rests in the bolt holes (you need the right rig for your bolt pattern), and a screw locking plate locks the wheel very securely to the bolt rig. Then balance as normal, once you've set your wheel centre line point and rim points. Easy and very accurate. Probably more accurate than using the regukar spindle method. But not everyone has that setup.... used in racing.

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The bolts just clamp the wheel onto the hub, the spigot is very important to centre the wheel. 

I think in this case the time taken to make a set would not be well spent - plastic ones are fine - at $6 for a set I would just get busy with the vernier calipers and hit ebay or silvers link

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12 hours ago, mk2 said:

Found this ad, but it kinda gives the general idea- https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=95-2PnLKVA0

 

Wow! I have never seen a system for balancing that fancy!

Yes I have 2 old VWs with the wide 5 bolt pattern but no one in this area has a jig to balance them. At one time they were very common  but not now.

I will look into buying the rings. That is $18 Canadian plus shipping. Not that bad, I wonder if there is someone on this side of the pond that sells them?

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Yes it appears there are vendors here. Thanks!

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The AC compressor arrived today. The box shows some damage but it's a pretty sturdy bit so not worried about that. 

 

AC comp 2.JPG

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The compressor looks like it spent some time on the Titanic before being brought to the surface and sold! The clutch bearing feel smooth... that's the main thing.

AC comp 3.JPG

AC comp 4.JPG

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My hands and the kitchen now have a very distinctive cow dung smell. I think I know were this part was stored! 🤣

Looking in the connecting ports all seems clean and fresh so I suspect the issues are purely cosmetic.

Edited by oprn
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I made the decision to go with the original AC compressor, not that the used one would not work, it's just that the original is tighter and not many miles on it. I changed over the coil and clutch.

 

IMG_1881.JPG

IMG_1880.JPG

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The clutch was pretty rusty but I cleaned it up and think it will be ok. The compressor is back in the car now and just need to recharge the system.

IMG_1883.JPG

Edited by oprn
add picture

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A question I have been asked is how much oil and what oil type should be in the compressor? The people I am talking to think they will just look it up but they don't realize yet that there are no listings in any data base for anything on these cars here.

Edited by oprn

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24 minutes ago, oprn said:

A question I have been asked is how much oil and what oil type should be in the compressor? The people I am talking to think they will just look it up but they don't realize yet that there are no listings in any data base for anything on these cars here.

Just enough oil and the oily type 

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Systems about the same size as mk4 golf, so I'd say about the same. 750g 134a. 50-75g of oil from memory. Vac it all out first for at least an hour to get any moisture to boil off. Whoever does it will see all the gauges anyway, so it'll be easy to tell when it's close to the limit.

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Thanks! 

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11 hours ago, mscherryviolet said:

Just enough oil and the oily type 

Good gal ain't she? Right on her game with all the latest and best info! 😉

Edited by oprn

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There's typically an AC sticker on the panel next to the bonnet (hood) lock, just above the radiator. It tells you the system capacity 750g type of R and +50 or whatever amount of oil in grams to add.

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Is this the sticker?

ac sticker.JPG

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Now I believe that due to how badly burnt the clutch coil was there is a possibility there is a bad fuse somewhere. The ones on top the battery look good, I pulled a couple from the panel in the parcel shelf but they look fine. Just have the symbols to go by as the owner's manual is in Japanese too. Anyone know which fuse it is? 26 was my best guess and it looks fine.

I could pull them all one at a time I suppose...

fuse panel.JPG

Edited by oprn

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You could get a multimeter, set it to continuity and then use the access post bits on the fuses?

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If you send me a picture of the Japanese writing I will translate it for you. Make sure it’s super clear tho - this is also me being deadly serious x

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Obviously that sticker is telling you not to stick your hand down where the cooling fans are.

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56 minutes ago, mscherryviolet said:

If you send me a picture of the Japanese writing I will translate it for you. Make sure it’s super clear tho - this is also me being deadly serious x

 

19 minutes ago, Pete said:

Obviously that sticker is telling you not to stick your hand down where the cooling fans are.

Clearly you don't need to translate it as Pete clearly understands Japanese now and has done the job for you.

Clearly the picture was clear enough.

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5 minutes ago, Rich said:

 

Clearly you don't need to translate it as Pete clearly understands Japanese now and has done the job for you.

Clearly the picture was clear enough.

Clearly 

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