Sausage

Taller tyres would be an easier swap, they only need to go on the front as well (unless you have abs maybe).

What tyres you running? try some 175/65/14.

FLE FJD show as dual clutch gearboxes so those are 3L TDI yes. Can your 60HP chuffer pull those revs with that wind resistance in that gear? You might find if it is a big jump from 4th you dont get to use 5th as much as you'd like to. Check out the 3L ratios and see what jump 4th to 5th is in them. They are lighter, better aero, more torque and have a turbo power band.

Google search. No clicky no movey = switch or wiring etc. Clicky no movey = window regulator bits usually.

Check the gearbox mount as well if the stick is moving with engine load.

Same with clutch pedal, when it is rattling lightly touch the pedal and see if it changes and when. Could well be clutch related. If it is jumping out of gear it could be selector adjustment but I'd put money on gearbox though with the rattle, drain the oil and see what you find, maybe someone has put nice thick goop in there to mask some other noises.

The first ones are injectors, the fact all 4 are affected says electrical fault like wiring, control module etc. Check the fuses. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17648/P1240 The 01312 one looks like data bus: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01312 Last one is airbag.

What engine? try putting a bit of pressure on the gear stick in all directions while it is rattling and see if it changes. Could be selector fork.

Check wiring, or blocked egr pipe.

No, i nicked the pic off of a thread on here. The feeling was that if the bushes are replaced with heat at some point and not repainted then they rot thru in that area in double quick time, but who knows.

Sold for £1100 ish. Someone should have some fun with that.

Not mine, but this seems the main fail area for rust on the rear beam:

Look in front of the rear wheel near the big round bush. They normally mark it to avoid confusion.

My 1.4s has a rusty hole in the rear beam arm in front of the main bush complete with MOT fail yellow marker around it. I discover that when giving it a proper look over to try and decide what to do with it.

One piece beam: If rusted badly it needs replacement. Lupo or Arosa are same, drum brake axles will be a lot cheaper and more plentiful.

Was it a zero bidder winning then (I wasnt paying attention)? Always a red flag for me that, so a good thing it has been removed for whatever reason. if you win it we want pictures and details (so i can copy it) :D I wont be bidding, I am still at max cars.

They will fit, tyres will more than likely rub. Suck em and see.

Noice! You've been to see it i take it from that? It's gone passed the value point for me now as not enough toys (good bits) on it but would still save a lot of time in getting one done. I've been eyeing up tdi engines for my red one for a quite a while and nothing worth getting excited about has turned up so far. There's a 2.0 TDI CR golf cheap but the complexity for conversion and lack of easy diy tuning kind of defeats the point of doing it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUPO-GTI-AVY-BREAKING/123778886933 Another one bites the dust (probably). Back axle gone so pretty much committed at this point.

Just looked at the spare tdi and these seem a b@stard to get to. The fuse box and white frame bottom is was not even connected and I still cant get it out of the way to even see the 53 relay, so not much point carrying spares tbh. I'm guessing there is a knack to moving the fuses out the way?

Any signs of a leak onto that or is it just a crap relay? so worth having a spare in the car at all times then?

pics?

He mentioned clock calibration for 4 cylinders, I assume that means the rev counter, what was done there? Any chassis leg cuts? What gearbox and drive shafts?

Still doesnt sound right as the tank pump should prime most of the system. Just switch the ignition on and off a few times until the tank pump stops pumping.

If you can smell petrol then chances are it is leaking or evaporating, find where that is from.