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Lupo Tom Lupo

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Lupo Tom Lupo last won the day on December 1 2018

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  1. "When the engine is under load, it pulls against the gear selector slightly, or opens up any gaps. I reckon that's what's happening." I thought the same myself that it makes no sense that it's the gearbox as it goes away when you put the clutch down to the floor and you can also hear the noise when in neutral but not quite as loud... Based on the sentence I quotes, what would be the fix for that? Also related to what you said, when you are in gear and driving along, if you take your foot of the gas the gearstick moves forwards / backwards (can't remember which way off the top of my head) it also does the same thing when you then put your foot back on the gas. Quite amusing but figure this could help further narrow down the issue perhaps? EDIT: Also if I'm going to be changing the engine oil, I'm going to be using 75w90 GL-4, however some people seem to say capacity is 1.9-2.1 litres, others say 2.7 litres? I'm thinking of putting 2L in but that's a lot to underfill by if it actually needs another 700ml (Lupo 1.4 75hp)
  2. Most noticable when driving around the 1600-2000rpm mark, if you put the clutch in whilst driving the noise goes away. Goes into gear nice and easy, nothing amiss so to speak of other than the rattle itself, the only thing I could maybe criticise is the fact that on rare occasion when reversing it will jump out of reverse and you cannot go directly from 5th to 3rd gear, you have to get there via 4th. All other gear combinations work fine however. I had a mechanic take a look at it and he seemed to think gearbox replacement but I've read on here that it's typically a whining noise that is made where this is not whiny whatsoever, it is without a doubt a rattle. Let me know your thoughts
  3. Hi, The driver's side washer jet isn't working, the passenger set seems to be very high pressure which suggests to me that the drivers side is blocked as opposed to leaking. I have used a small water pistol to send some high pressure water down the jet aperture, I've also tried a thin pointy nail fail but to no avail. I did try unclipping the jet from the bonnet to make sure nothing was leaking, I inspected it whilst the jets were operated and nothing happened. I assume that there is a very significant blockage and the remedy is to buy a new 'jet end' and clip in a new one in place of the old one? Also worth mentioning that from the washer bottle up to the bonnet there is only one hose but the connector on the bonnet has 2 ports? I feel as though it's always been this way but thought it might be something to include. I have searched this issue but all I found were multiple hits of the rear jet not working which I'm aware is usually due to the hose coming off. Cheers.
  4. @Rich I would really need this doing sooner than later, struggling to get hold of you. Once again sorry for pestering but really do need it sorting as I'm getting it in the neck off the girlfriend.
  5. I know, need to get it sorted before it ends up wearing out the clutch friction plate and wearing the gearbox a little! @Rich Please could you get back to me as soon as is convenient
  6. Funny actually, driving again I paid attention for a 'squeak' it actually does sound like a squeak / creak quite badly when it gets close to the floor. Also the biting point is very low. Just to reiterate, symptoms as follows: - Reverse always clunks badly into reverse, like a really loud clunk that is jarring - Hard to change gears - No sign of clutch slippage, puts power down beautifully - Creak / squeaky pedal, quite loud and happens between pushing the clutch pedal between half and 3/4 way down to the floor The last thing I want is to have someone sort the pedal-box for it to turn out to be okay. How much incentivisation do you require and would you meet half way? Think it's 80 miles from here to Durham so 40 miles'ish for each of us would be swell. Is the fix you offer temporary and will only last a couple of years or will it be good for another 5-10 years? Cheers
  7. No squeak no. However, if it's the weld(s) on the pedalbox, doesn't that mean trying to change gear with the engine off should be just as hard as when the engine is running? Something to test perhaps?
  8. Chorley (near Preston) Not as far as I'm aware no, but the pedal feels stiffer than I believe it should feel (feels as stiff as my 4 paddle hill-climb clutch I have in my other car)
  9. Hiya all, Second time posting here, first time was a peculiar issue which thankfully only affects the car should you be doing something you'd never normally do (rev'ing the crap out of the engine whilst moving with the clutch in). Anyhoo, the issue this time is: Clutch pedal lower than brake pedal at all times, notchy gear changes, 5th to 3rd gear change won't go so you have to go 5th to 4th to 3rd for it to go in. First can be particularly hard to get into and reverse usually crunches when selected. Based on the pedal box thread, it seems I may have a pedal box issue. I thought I would post my specific symptoms rather than have wasted money on what could perhaps be a clutch problem (any way to test that)? Also if it is pedal box, does anyone have any recommendations for where to get the job done (North-West England) or what is the best strategy for cost-effectiveness? I.E use someone who does these repairs all the time? Buy a new more robust pedal box? Buy a used one? In fact there was someone in the thread offering a comprehensive repair service at an excellent price a few years ago as described: ___________________________ "hi i run a company called clutch and gearbox in wolverhampton and we keep the pedal box kits in stock we can supply and fit a new modified pedal box,new shear bolts and brake cylinder locking clip for 120 pounds all in we offer a while you wait service if neccesary and the job takes around 2 hrs to complete for anymore info/advice please call 07854 07854 9 or http://www.clutchandgearbox.webs.com thanks for looking" ___________________________ Unsure if this service is still going but if so it's 85 miles there and 85 miles back and if it'll alleviate my problem it's worth the day-trip. Let me know your thoughts and experiences please folks, thank you
  10. Okay guys, Today I got around to fitting the relay, although I actually didn't... I'm going to need further instruction on where to find it as above the pedals all I saw were a plethora of relays, wiring and duct tape heaven. There was nothing that resembled the relay I purchased so I'm rather confused. There seemed to be a white harness in the top corner but half of the harness had nothing in it. Slightly confused...
  11. Hi all, I have ordered both a new ignition relay and ignition switch. I phoned around some breakers and they seemed bemused when I mentioned the ignition relay as if it didn't exist. A couple of other places wanted silly money sadly for such a small cheap little part so I ended up ordering the one I found on eBay. I have also found a way to make the car cut out... If you put the clutch in whilst driving and rev the car to 5k rpm it will then cut out within 30 seconds.. ignition off and on and you're away again no problem, this is the only way I have found to make the car cut out, otherwise it can go for days / weeks without cutting out. Does this point to one component over the other? I am going to replace the ignition relay first as it's the easier part and then try rev'ing the car high (when engine is warmed up) and see if it still cuts out within 30 seconds. If it doesn't it seems we may have our culprit. Let me hear your suggestions on the logic behind why reving the engine would make it cut out not immediately after doing so but within 30 seconds? All I can think is more revs means more voltage sent through the relay resulting in it conking out after being overloaded but I'm purely spitballing outloud. Let me know! Cheers
  12. Which top corner? Accelerator for top left corner or clutch for top right corner? Should the ignition switch look like the picture I attached further up or this one?
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