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Lupo Tom Lupo

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Lupo Tom Lupo last won the day on December 1 2018

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  1. Ah, I've clearly been reading stuff from people who don't know what they're talking about then @Sausage, if I were to get a new (used) gearbox would I have to get the right gearbox code or would any gearbox from a 1.4 Lupo (75 bhp) / 1.4 Polo (75bhp) fit properly?
  2. Hi guys, Title says it, made another thread not too long ago but think I'd written it in a confusing manner. I've done some Googling and read that people tend to say that driving along with a bad rattle which goes away when you put the clutch down to the floor is caused by a bad release bearing, however, when I've spoke to a clutch and flywheel specific garage and another garage they've said it's the complete opposite and if it goes away when you pull the clutch in it's likely the gearbox. It's frustrating because people have the same symptoms and all seem to say it's the release bearing so I don't understand why the mechanics are saying everyone's wrong, help? Thanks
  3. "When the engine is under load, it pulls against the gear selector slightly, or opens up any gaps. I reckon that's what's happening." I thought the same myself that it makes no sense that it's the gearbox as it goes away when you put the clutch down to the floor and you can also hear the noise when in neutral but not quite as loud... Based on the sentence I quotes, what would be the fix for that? Also related to what you said, when you are in gear and driving along, if you take your foot of the gas the gearstick moves forwards / backwards (can't remember which way off the top of my head) it also does the same thing when you then put your foot back on the gas. Quite amusing but figure this could help further narrow down the issue perhaps? EDIT: Also if I'm going to be changing the engine oil, I'm going to be using 75w90 GL-4, however some people seem to say capacity is 1.9-2.1 litres, others say 2.7 litres? I'm thinking of putting 2L in but that's a lot to underfill by if it actually needs another 700ml (Lupo 1.4 75hp)
  4. Most noticable when driving around the 1600-2000rpm mark, if you put the clutch in whilst driving the noise goes away. Goes into gear nice and easy, nothing amiss so to speak of other than the rattle itself, the only thing I could maybe criticise is the fact that on rare occasion when reversing it will jump out of reverse and you cannot go directly from 5th to 3rd gear, you have to get there via 4th. All other gear combinations work fine however. I had a mechanic take a look at it and he seemed to think gearbox replacement but I've read on here that it's typically a whining noise that is made where this is not whiny whatsoever, it is without a doubt a rattle. Let me know your thoughts
  5. Hi, The driver's side washer jet isn't working, the passenger set seems to be very high pressure which suggests to me that the drivers side is blocked as opposed to leaking. I have used a small water pistol to send some high pressure water down the jet aperture, I've also tried a thin pointy nail fail but to no avail. I did try unclipping the jet from the bonnet to make sure nothing was leaking, I inspected it whilst the jets were operated and nothing happened. I assume that there is a very significant blockage and the remedy is to buy a new 'jet end' and clip in a new one in place of the old one? Also worth mentioning that from the washer bottle up to the bonnet there is only one hose but the connector on the bonnet has 2 ports? I feel as though it's always been this way but thought it might be something to include. I have searched this issue but all I found were multiple hits of the rear jet not working which I'm aware is usually due to the hose coming off. Cheers.
  6. @Rich I would really need this doing sooner than later, struggling to get hold of you. Once again sorry for pestering but really do need it sorting as I'm getting it in the neck off the girlfriend.
  7. I know, need to get it sorted before it ends up wearing out the clutch friction plate and wearing the gearbox a little! @Rich Please could you get back to me as soon as is convenient
  8. Funny actually, driving again I paid attention for a 'squeak' it actually does sound like a squeak / creak quite badly when it gets close to the floor. Also the biting point is very low. Just to reiterate, symptoms as follows: - Reverse always clunks badly into reverse, like a really loud clunk that is jarring - Hard to change gears - No sign of clutch slippage, puts power down beautifully - Creak / squeaky pedal, quite loud and happens between pushing the clutch pedal between half and 3/4 way down to the floor The last thing I want is to have someone sort the pedal-box for it to turn out to be okay. How much incentivisation do you require and would you meet half way? Think it's 80 miles from here to Durham so 40 miles'ish for each of us would be swell. Is the fix you offer temporary and will only last a couple of years or will it be good for another 5-10 years? Cheers
  9. No squeak no. However, if it's the weld(s) on the pedalbox, doesn't that mean trying to change gear with the engine off should be just as hard as when the engine is running? Something to test perhaps?
  10. Chorley (near Preston) Not as far as I'm aware no, but the pedal feels stiffer than I believe it should feel (feels as stiff as my 4 paddle hill-climb clutch I have in my other car)
  11. Hiya all, Second time posting here, first time was a peculiar issue which thankfully only affects the car should you be doing something you'd never normally do (rev'ing the crap out of the engine whilst moving with the clutch in). Anyhoo, the issue this time is: Clutch pedal lower than brake pedal at all times, notchy gear changes, 5th to 3rd gear change won't go so you have to go 5th to 4th to 3rd for it to go in. First can be particularly hard to get into and reverse usually crunches when selected. Based on the pedal box thread, it seems I may have a pedal box issue. I thought I would post my specific symptoms rather than have wasted money on what could perhaps be a clutch problem (any way to test that)? Also if it is pedal box, does anyone have any recommendations for where to get the job done (North-West England) or what is the best strategy for cost-effectiveness? I.E use someone who does these repairs all the time? Buy a new more robust pedal box? Buy a used one? In fact there was someone in the thread offering a comprehensive repair service at an excellent price a few years ago as described: ___________________________ "hi i run a company called clutch and gearbox in wolverhampton and we keep the pedal box kits in stock we can supply and fit a new modified pedal box,new shear bolts and brake cylinder locking clip for 120 pounds all in we offer a while you wait service if neccesary and the job takes around 2 hrs to complete for anymore info/advice please call 07854 07854 9 or http://www.clutchandgearbox.webs.com thanks for looking" ___________________________ Unsure if this service is still going but if so it's 85 miles there and 85 miles back and if it'll alleviate my problem it's worth the day-trip. Let me know your thoughts and experiences please folks, thank you
  12. Okay guys, Today I got around to fitting the relay, although I actually didn't... I'm going to need further instruction on where to find it as above the pedals all I saw were a plethora of relays, wiring and duct tape heaven. There was nothing that resembled the relay I purchased so I'm rather confused. There seemed to be a white harness in the top corner but half of the harness had nothing in it. Slightly confused...
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