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Lupo Tom Lupo

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Lupo Tom Lupo last won the day on December 1 2018

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  1. Hi, The driver's side washer jet isn't working, the passenger set seems to be very high pressure which suggests to me that the drivers side is blocked as opposed to leaking. I have used a small water pistol to send some high pressure water down the jet aperture, I've also tried a thin pointy nail fail but to no avail. I did try unclipping the jet from the bonnet to make sure nothing was leaking, I inspected it whilst the jets were operated and nothing happened. I assume that there is a very significant blockage and the remedy is to buy a new 'jet end' and clip in a new one in place of the old one? Also worth mentioning that from the washer bottle up to the bonnet there is only one hose but the connector on the bonnet has 2 ports? I feel as though it's always been this way but thought it might be something to include. I have searched this issue but all I found were multiple hits of the rear jet not working which I'm aware is usually due to the hose coming off. Cheers.
  2. @Rich I would really need this doing sooner than later, struggling to get hold of you. Once again sorry for pestering but really do need it sorting as I'm getting it in the neck off the girlfriend.
  3. I know, need to get it sorted before it ends up wearing out the clutch friction plate and wearing the gearbox a little! @Rich Please could you get back to me as soon as is convenient
  4. I've sent you a private message Rich
  5. Funny actually, driving again I paid attention for a 'squeak' it actually does sound like a squeak / creak quite badly when it gets close to the floor. Also the biting point is very low. Just to reiterate, symptoms as follows: - Reverse always clunks badly into reverse, like a really loud clunk that is jarring - Hard to change gears - No sign of clutch slippage, puts power down beautifully - Creak / squeaky pedal, quite loud and happens between pushing the clutch pedal between half and 3/4 way down to the floor The last thing I want is to have someone sort the pedal-box for it to turn out to be okay. How much incentivisation do you require and would you meet half way? Think it's 80 miles from here to Durham so 40 miles'ish for each of us would be swell. Is the fix you offer temporary and will only last a couple of years or will it be good for another 5-10 years? Cheers
  6. No squeak no. However, if it's the weld(s) on the pedalbox, doesn't that mean trying to change gear with the engine off should be just as hard as when the engine is running? Something to test perhaps?
  7. Chorley (near Preston) Not as far as I'm aware no, but the pedal feels stiffer than I believe it should feel (feels as stiff as my 4 paddle hill-climb clutch I have in my other car)
  8. Hiya all, Second time posting here, first time was a peculiar issue which thankfully only affects the car should you be doing something you'd never normally do (rev'ing the crap out of the engine whilst moving with the clutch in). Anyhoo, the issue this time is: Clutch pedal lower than brake pedal at all times, notchy gear changes, 5th to 3rd gear change won't go so you have to go 5th to 4th to 3rd for it to go in. First can be particularly hard to get into and reverse usually crunches when selected. Based on the pedal box thread, it seems I may have a pedal box issue. I thought I would post my specific symptoms rather than have wasted money on what could perhaps be a clutch problem (any way to test that)? Also if it is pedal box, does anyone have any recommendations for where to get the job done (North-West England) or what is the best strategy for cost-effectiveness? I.E use someone who does these repairs all the time? Buy a new more robust pedal box? Buy a used one? In fact there was someone in the thread offering a comprehensive repair service at an excellent price a few years ago as described: ___________________________ "hi i run a company called clutch and gearbox in wolverhampton and we keep the pedal box kits in stock we can supply and fit a new modified pedal box,new shear bolts and brake cylinder locking clip for 120 pounds all in we offer a while you wait service if neccesary and the job takes around 2 hrs to complete for anymore info/advice please call 07854 07854 9 or http://www.clutchandgearbox.webs.com thanks for looking" ___________________________ Unsure if this service is still going but if so it's 85 miles there and 85 miles back and if it'll alleviate my problem it's worth the day-trip. Let me know your thoughts and experiences please folks, thank you
  9. Lupo Tom Lupo

    1.4 (75) battery light and PAS gone then back on.

    Okay guys, Today I got around to fitting the relay, although I actually didn't... I'm going to need further instruction on where to find it as above the pedals all I saw were a plethora of relays, wiring and duct tape heaven. There was nothing that resembled the relay I purchased so I'm rather confused. There seemed to be a white harness in the top corner but half of the harness had nothing in it. Slightly confused...
  10. Lupo Tom Lupo

    1.4 (75) battery light and PAS gone then back on.

    Hi all, I have ordered both a new ignition relay and ignition switch. I phoned around some breakers and they seemed bemused when I mentioned the ignition relay as if it didn't exist. A couple of other places wanted silly money sadly for such a small cheap little part so I ended up ordering the one I found on eBay. I have also found a way to make the car cut out... If you put the clutch in whilst driving and rev the car to 5k rpm it will then cut out within 30 seconds.. ignition off and on and you're away again no problem, this is the only way I have found to make the car cut out, otherwise it can go for days / weeks without cutting out. Does this point to one component over the other? I am going to replace the ignition relay first as it's the easier part and then try rev'ing the car high (when engine is warmed up) and see if it still cuts out within 30 seconds. If it doesn't it seems we may have our culprit. Let me hear your suggestions on the logic behind why reving the engine would make it cut out not immediately after doing so but within 30 seconds? All I can think is more revs means more voltage sent through the relay resulting in it conking out after being overloaded but I'm purely spitballing outloud. Let me know! Cheers
  11. Lupo Tom Lupo

    1.4 (75) battery light and PAS gone then back on.

    Which top corner? Accelerator for top left corner or clutch for top right corner? Should the ignition switch look like the picture I attached further up or this one?
  12. Lupo Tom Lupo

    1.4 (75) battery light and PAS gone then back on.

    I will check the battery terminals to make sure the connections are tight, haven't done that in a couple of months but there is no corrosion or anything like that. No EML and no fault codes as I had it on a friends fault code reader only last week to be pleasantly surprised that since we bought the car there has been not a single code stored. After checking the battery if all is well I will take your excellent advice on the ignition relay, do you recommend a branded part (like for example important sensors we always buy Bosch or some kind of OEM part) or will anything that's the correct fitment be suitable? I found the following, does this seem correct:? Auto Car Van Boat Immobiliser Alarm Ignition Cut Off Relay 12V 30A Amp 5 Pins £4.35 Delivered seem about right? Is there a guide on accessing the location of the ignition relay or any more tips you can offer other than the ones you've kindly already detailed? "near the fuse box below the steering wheel" Thank you
  13. Lupo Tom Lupo

    1.4 (75) battery light and PAS gone then back on.

    Okay so I've spoked to her and along with these symptoms she said that whilst driving randomly the accelerator pedal would definitely do nothing. I.E. She would be doing 30mph in 3rd gear and then she could put her foot to the floor and it would do nothing and then all of a sudden come back to life... Does this suggest what has been mentioned? I.E. Dodgy ignition switch causing engine to cut out which temporarily disables all functions such as power assisted steering etc?
  14. Lupo Tom Lupo

    1.4 (75) battery light and PAS gone then back on.

    Thank you for the advice fellas, I'll make sure to ask her what the weather conditions were like and try and get a more accurate answer of whether the engine actually cut out and she had to restart it etc. I'll report back what she says late afternoon!
  15. Lupo Tom Lupo

    1.4 (75) battery light and PAS gone then back on.

    That's the thing, she did say she panicked so my suspicion is she probably put her foot on the clutch and pressed the accelerator rather than the brake, I've seen her do that before when panicked... Whilst she wasn't concentrating she likely construe this as the accelerator pedal doing nothing. I mentioned it because it's what she said but I'm not entirely convinced the engine did anything out of the ordinary. Equally, ifI assume it was only the PAS and battery light that occurred you have to assume it's the serp belt which makes no sense when the belt is fine and very tight. Is my hypothesis of the belt or pulley getting a soaking causing it to temporarily slip a possibility or is that a fairly far-fetched scenario?

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