Cooper_GTI

They're sex! But they won't fit, as the centre bore is 3mm too small! You could always get them machined out from 54mm to 57mm.

If it was diesel, i'd undertsand where you're coming from, but on a petrol...?

You'd proabably be best to steer clear of 'fake' splits that actual split, as they'd no doubt use inferior materials, which would more than likely lead to poor sealing, or even worse, bolt failures...

With regards to the CDA induction, i'm not convinced they're the best option, nor am i convinced they flow any better than the standard airbox, or indeed a cheap cone filter! My old GTI lump had a smoother torque curve with a Green cotton cone filter than it did with a carbon CDA. It also made 2bhp more with the cone. Lol.

I'd have thought it'd be exhaust related, as the bolts rust through to the point where they don't actually clamp the aluminium shield anymore. Porbably because the aluminium oxide corrodes the carbon steel. Check around the cat and the actual cat itself for the rattle. Get your missus to hold it at the rpm where it occurs, get underneath it and have a poke around with a crow bar or a pry bar. It could even be a dodgy exhaust rubber which is letting the exhaust contact the body.

Either sell it, or use it as a second car. I wrecked mine doing over 800 miles per week. The mileage soons racks up, the front end gets peppered with stone chips, i went through 2 windscreens, all the suspension bushes deteriorated rapidly as did wheel bearings etc. It had 72,000 when i got it, and it blew up just over a year later when it reached 120,000 miles. I basically killed it. I've given it a new lease of life now though, with over double the power and bought a mk4 TDI which laps up those motorway miles!

02M from a Touran is what i've gone for.

I've got standard Lupo heated leathers that i may be persuaded to part with. Drop me a PM if you're interested.

No, and even if it did, it wouldn't manage the torque.

As said, negative camber shouldn't ruin tyres, although it will undoubtly wear them quicker on the inside. With regards to handling, negative camber is good for handling, as when you turn in, the weight shifts, the suspension compresses and as this happens, depending on the amount of caster you run, you can keep the whole tyre in contact with the road. If the camber is set to 0, when you corner hard, most of the contact patch on the tyre is on the outside, which is obviously not good, hence why a bit of negative gives you grip. Although 0deg camber is good for drag racing, as you're getting the whole 195mm of your tyre on the road! But running excessive negative camber on the road can be a bit unnerving, especially in the wet on a motorway for example. Upto -1deg in my experience is okay for road use. Any more and you compromise tyre wear, comfort, straight line traction and road holding ability. It will tend to follow small ruts in the road and will also exaggerate any toe alignment issues.

It doesn't matter which engine code you fit. ust try to get the best (mileage/power) engine you can. I was lucky enough to find a BAM with 46,000 miles for £500. The short shaft will fit with the correct C.V. joint, but the long shaft needs to be cut and welded. Best and only real option when it comes to engine mounts, is to cut out the standard drivers side mount and weld in a 1.8t mount. It's about £14 from VW. P.S. none of them are 'easy'. It's not quite like dropping a redtop in a corsa.

I think you'll struggle to get 300bhp from the K04. It seems to run out of puff at about 280bhp. Time for an IHI or a GT28RS!

I'd be very suprised if they fail you for that. I think (may be incorrect) there may be some kind of expection for motorsport use, so just blag that it's a track car and he's lucky you didn't take it to him in FULL track guise! Lol

I ran AP's for a 18 months. They were nice over bumps, but too soft for me. The seals went, which i thought was abit of a bummer, but not the end of the world. They were just out of warranty and when i tried to buy a seal kit, they wouldn't sell me one, you have to send the whole shock unit back to AP in Germany, then they fit new inserts and charge you £350!

If he wants no body and a real harsh ride, he may aswell go for some JOM's and fit uprated front and rear ARB's along with full polybush kit.

Pretty sure theres an App for that... Even if you do find someone who can do it, if it's lowered, it'll be a REAL pain to set the camber, as you have to keep jacking up the car and taking the wheels off, in order to get to the 2 hub bolts. Then when you let the car back down onto it's wheels, you'll induce a load of negative camber as the suspension compresses, so it's just a case of trial and error. Someone with a passion for cars will be more willing to do it than someone at Kwik-Fit! Camber bolts will help...

If you want the sound, you'd be better off with Webers/Dellorto's. Throttle bodies and carbs sound nice, but they aren't a patch on a paif of 40's or 45's. They absolutely howl, where you can't really hear ITB's unless you listen for them.

The right mudflaps look great on a GTI. Even big gay ones (sparco) would you look good imo!

I don't see why it wouldn't 'fit', but whether or not the sensors/belts they use are the same i don't know. Also, bear in mind the GTI is VVT. I've got a complete GTI lump/box going very cheap if you're interested? I'm sure you could lovely personise it somehow. Lol.

If you need a working alternator for a GTI (with no air con), i've got one for sale. Drop me a PM if you're interested.

In fact, I don't know what i'm playing at. You should sell this kit to me, cus it definitely won't fit. Only jealous, cus i've been on the look out for Bilsteins for months on end!

At a guess i'd say they're aftermarket. I mean, who on earth needs parking sensors on a Lupo?! You can almost reach out and touch the rear screen!

I'm not quite sure i've got the gist of the thread, but i'll try my best anyway... You've bought a Bilstein B12 spring/damper kit off ebay and you want to know what other parts you need in order for them to fit the car? Well your standard suspension items should all fit the Bilstein suspension. The 'donut' thing you refer to is the top mount. If you open the bonnet and look in the corners of the engine bay, you should see these 'donuts' with a 19mm nut in the middle. You also mention spring platform adjusters - I'm pretty sure that a Bilstein B12 kit is fixed height, adjustable dampening, so i'm pretty baffled as to why you have spring adjusters... So, to sum up, you shouldn't need any new parts, as you will use your existing suspension components, apart from, obvisouly, the shocks/springs.

I don't think FK ones will fit, as they're not the same as the generic raceland/jom/hottuning etc etc. Probably best to buy a pair of new ones. Even my AP's can't be rebuilt, and a replacement unit is over £200. It definitely pays to have some good quality Bilsteins/Avo's etc, as they can be serviced!

Sounds like an air leak to me... Get some carb cleaner and spray all round that area while the engine is running. If the revs go up then the spray is getting in somewhere and you have an air leak, if the revs don't change, then change the temp sensor and map sensor.