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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    It does look a little big to me too. I've been running this badge on mine for years, it's from a MK2 Golf GTI 10th Anniversary Edition, I found it at VW Spring Fest years ago, think it looks great! Might be hard to find now though....
  2. 2 points
    When you sell it, don't just sell it as a cheap small runabout for a new driver. As there are fewer than 10 left on the UK's roads, you need to make that a selling point. It's like Mk2 golfs... even the nastiest poverty spec "Golf C" now goes for very good money as there are so few original one's left!
  3. 2 points
    Hello all, it’s been many a year since I’ve posted a project thread but might as well start one to look back and see how much money I throw away lol. Not to long ago I got rid of my 6n2, bought a 9N that lasted a day then got this Arosa. I got the car for a mere £220 with only 59k! Granted the interior is awful and the body work albeit the most solid shell I’ve probably ever owned just in need of some polish and TLC. In fairness to this car it has one of the cleanest MOT histories I’ve ever seen and it was first registered 01/01/01 so I had to take it. Up to now this is what I’ve done: Stainless steel manifold 9n 1.2 downpipe slightly modded into a decat 9n 1.2 throttle body because it has no charcoal canister pipe intake Removed charcoal canister Bosch Super 4s (for Corsa C but exactly the same length etc) Clear side indicators from 9n De badged boot De wipered Black pit bike foam air filter 14” 6J TSW Evo’s ET20 Blue D shape steering wheel Removed front ARB I recently bought a 6n flocked dash in the hope of turning my hideous grey interior into a black one but found out after chopping up the Arosa dash, it sits higher than standard and is to short on the back. But sh*t happens right? Also got a lower strut brace to be fitted and 6n2 handbrake. As I lost a few 100 on the 9N it was only right to use some of its parts, was surprised the TB was bang on same fitment and plug. The clear indicators just looked better imo, I ended up cutting my original downpipe just where it joins the flexi and cut the 9N downpipe at the flexi and welded it together, still need to cut and extend it a few inches before it bends up as it’s too close to the subframe but will sort that later on. Couldn’t believe I got £90 for the cat so car only stands me at £130! The alloys are from my 6n2, got them at a steal price too, the first time I let my so called friend drive he scuffed one! Lasted nearly 30 years without a mark until then but they would benefit from a refurb. Been offered a Sparco FIA cage for cheap too but can’t warrant it with such little power aha. Plans: Replace broken "Relay" bracket Vented discs Better seats/ full strip out (Drivers seat digs into my back 😡) Coilovers Nicer/smaller steering wheel Replace O/S indicator (lens fell off) T15 turbo?? On 5-6psi Gonna wrap it at some point. Got this used for £27.50 posted =] Crazy how restrictive the standard manifold is.. Admitted the air filter will get a bit of heat soak but the standard airbox has the same inlet diameter of a Mc'Ds straw.. I was excited when I got this as I thought it would be a straight fit 😒 Should of been a 220 mile trip, but due to road works it took a bit longer, was the same person I got lower strut brace and 6n2 handbrake from. Please excuse this ugly interior As i ruined the original dashboard and put it on a bonfire last night it just gives me the excuse to strip it. But when i strip a car I do it properly 😂 I'm not one of these who take the back seats out, whack a sub and false floor in and claim its stripped, i take ALL sound deadening, excess wiring and anything that doesn't need to be there. Clean 9N 1.2 12v TB Don't quite think 20s will fit haha Still need to fit this, was cheap but it seems too light to really add much rigidity? Before After - Just looks cleaner IMO Had to take this carpet out, change kept appearing, it was covered in oil, drinks etc It gets better underneath 😲 This also made its way onto last nights bonfire! When i initially seen this i thought it was grease fat! Later was told they used to do this before the galvanised them?? Either way its better than my 6n2 floor was! Also started taking up the sound deadening. This is the cars current main problem Been driving around stuck in second gear 🤣 done it for a few days. Ordered a replacement new cast for £17 off ebay, I can't believe the complete relay is £180+
  4. 2 points
    A 6th gear that's a great bonus 👍
  5. 2 points
    Bare with me just having some technical difficulties 😂
  6. 2 points
    ARB is on, like everyone's said it makes a big difference, so I'm very happy with it! Have since put on a BMC CDA with metal piping and I have a stainless manifold to go on, I'll probably get this fitted at Tony Banks with a sports cat. Gonna keep hold of the standard mani incase I ever want to revert back! Got some car park pictures today, multi-storeys have the best lighting!
  7. 1 point
    Check o ring, push in till th clip feels engaged and try to pull it out. If it isn't in right once it pressurises you're sitting there upset. You should have drained the coolant and presumably it is new from when the engine was done. Wasteful and bad for the environment.
  8. 1 point
    Kite string and nail polish remover. Then finish up with some T cut and meguire's polish.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Yeah, it's too big. Needs to be smaller than the gti bit.
  11. 1 point
    Nope. Not a fan. Corrado badge?
  12. 1 point
    Wow, I have to be honest and say that that's the first 16V version I've seen. There can't be many about. Personally, I'd fix the broken bits which like you say are all superficial and take it from there. Don't worry about the bonnet stone chips. Get the interior properly valeted for around £40 (or do it yourself), give it a good wax and polish and you could get as much as £1200. Get it running...
  13. 1 point
    Many pieces, hole in block, bent rod. Ran well on three though.
  14. 1 point
    I bet that 6th gear was a nice surprise Keep the good work!
  15. 1 point
    Which is fine until MOT time when it will fail for not having a catalyst fitted I'm glad things are on the mend with this car, it's nice to see a GTI being restored rather than stripped and sold off
  16. 1 point
    I wish my pockets were as deep as yours when it comes to cars 😲 I fully understand wanting to restore a GTi by all means but by the time your finished you could of had a 20v turbo engine in for the same price... Shop around and try find better deals. Your sump cost more than my entire car 😂 Go and weigh the catalytic converter in for some money back, I got £90 for mine and just get one long piece of stainless pipe to connect the downpipe to the back box 😈 Keep up the good work though.
  17. 1 point
    They haven't put the screws into the bumper from inside the wings. I'd suggest ordering two of those up before you begin. Maybe even the Audi stainless arch liner screws?
  18. 1 point
    Afternoon all, New member here from Sth Lincs. Just purchased a 2004 1.0cc for my 17yr old daughter to learn to drive in and must admit I am very impressed with the car so far. It does need a good service and a few parts. Looking forward to borrowing some knowledge (an providing some) RL
  19. 1 point
    The Arosa mk2 has a different clock spring to the Lupo, and has a different fitment method. Part number: 6K0 959 653. I failed to get a new one from Seat, so settled for one from a breakers. First, remove earth lead from battery. No need to wait. 1. Use a T30 bit to unscrew the 3 torx screws on the underside of the steering wheel. Pic 1. 2. Un-clip yellow connector from airbag & remove black horn lead. Undo nut one full turn & tug on wheel hard to dislodge. Finally unscrew nut fully. Pic 2 3. Part number pic3 4. Clock spring pic4 5. Remove shroud from underside, by unscrewing 3 torx screws. Un-clip yellow purple plug. Pull up 3 red plugs in steering wheel. The clock spring can be removed from the steering wheel. Pic 5. 6. Place in new part, BUT make sure both arrows are aligned. Pic6. 7. Push in 3 red plugs to lock in. Locate wheel on spline - line up mark on wheel with dot on spline. Pic7. 8. Plug in yellow purple plug, & refit shroud carefully. Don’t force. Screw 3 torx screws back in. Pic8. 9. Refit airbag, re-attach yellow clip & black horn lead. Screw in 3 torx T30 screws. Pic9. 10. Re-connect earth lead. Test horn. Airbag light will need re-setting.
  20. 1 point
    It's certainly no supermodel but from what i had read online i was expecting a tin can with an interior built from chocolate box inserts.
  21. 1 point
    Bigger than I thought it would be. Going to need to replace the bolts at the same time. Anyone have any ideas on where to get anodised or better quality bolts than the standard ones, I have lots of bolts and nuts which I want to replace now 😂
  22. 1 point
    Its really simple to do, once you know what you're doing. One thing i forgot to point out is check the colour of the led for example mine are red to match the rest but i did see some had a blue led and others was white i saw on eBay, no issue if you don't care but for me being abit OCD it would of drove me mad.
  23. 1 point
    I might get some spares too... hey, it could be lupo window switch week!
  24. 1 point
    Just replaced mine with cheap ebay replacement at £6.99 for both window switches, use a small plastic pry bar to pop out switches then i used a small flat head to dislodge old switches from casing. About 10min job
  25. 1 point
    Yes you can replace the switch my drivers side switch also failed a few months back so i ordered a pair from eBay for around £10 i think it was. I believe the switches usually fail as water will run in off the roof and when the window is open it usually hits the switch unit causing corrosion on the contacts of the switch. (I could be wrong) Some bits to help, the door card around the unit marks really easy so if you're bothered about marking it get yourself some decent plastic removal tools or have a cloth or something ready to put under whatever you use to get the unit out. On the Unit below the door lock / unlock buttons is where there is a tab that sticks out under the door card to keep the unit in place, so you may want to get a flat removal tool and press inwards to depress the tab in which will aid loads in removing the switch. once the unit is removed you can remove the switch you want to replace there is a couple of tabs keeping the switch in place i used a very small flat headed screwdriver to pull the tbas back and then pushed the switch out, replace switch and before you re-seat it all in the door card make sure it works. Will take around 20 minutes to do, trickiest part for me was getting the unit out without marking the surrounding areas of the door card. (I guess the other option would be to completely remove the door card to gain access)
  26. 1 point
    Yeah, you can just replace the switches individually.
  27. 1 point
    I was expecting a glovebox. Welcome along 🙂
  28. 1 point
    You can thank me in the form of a like? Stick around, it is fun and we all like lupos. Handy for when the next thing goes wrong. Not enough aht craic on here.
  29. 1 point
    Wow, an aht engine. Clearly you're not English. That looks like an oil pressure sensor.
  30. 1 point
    Did you do it properly by taking out the roof lining? Major headache for such a simple job. Every vdub I know fails there. First the heated window stops working, then the wipers. Lastly the brake lamps.
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Very, very nice
  33. 1 point
    Get an agreed insurance value on it. Book value is only £900. Fit an immobilser. It looks very nickable = gorgeous.
  34. 1 point
    That is looking stunning mate!
  35. 1 point
    Just give it to me then your worries are over! Seriously though, I have bought and sold a lot of cars over the years and unless you make it a serious business, most automotive purchases are not profitable. Of late I just buy what I want to drive and mile it out. I'm an end user now, I don't even worry about "Is it worth fixing this or that? The car is only worth $XXX!" Nope! If the body is good and I enjoy driving it - I fix it - mileage or resale value be dammed! For instance the wife's Forester needed a clutch at 130,000, was due for a timing belt and few other odds and ends that we had put off. It's a 2000 so 18 years old and worth $2500 to $3000 tops. I didn't have time to do it and took it in to be done. "The car isn't worth it." I'm told "Too old." "Fix it!" I told him and he did. Cost me just shy of $4000. Was it worth it? Ya! It has Zero rust, as in not even a tiny bit - anywhere, top side or bottom. My cousin has one, still driving it at 500,000km, original drivetrain, never touched! So I got me a car in perfect working order for $4000, totally rust free with the potential to last another 370,000km. Nothing wrong with that! Oh and it's the 246hp turbo version too! 🤩
  36. 1 point
    02R gearbox fits you just have to shave the mounting lugs as there is webbing between them to fit the gearbox mount. Some ratios here: https://workshop-manuals.com/seat/leon-mk1/02r_5-speed/technical_data/gearbox_identification/code_letters_assembly_allocation_ratios_capacities/ VNT needs suitable n75 and mapping. He needs bigger injectors right off the bat if he wants to do this. Also the 4 pot flywheel wont be offset balanced to the 3 pot piston / crank assembly so either get that done somehow, or get the 3 pot flywheel machined and re pinned for 4 pot clutches or else just live with the vibration.
  37. 1 point
    Two things here... first guess is clock spring has been turned while steering was off. Movement probably by a bolt being left out. welcome to CL
  38. 1 point
    Uganda? For real?
  39. 1 point
    Got the parts from a breakers in Wales. Tailgate & bumper £50. Just have to collect it!
  40. 1 point
    How could you not know that? Amateur.
  41. 1 point
    I liked the guys near Eldon road. They were sound and kept lending me stuff.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Every petrol receipt?! Having said that as a new owner of my 4th Lupo I’ve got both the receipts for my 2 lots of fuel I’ve put in it so far... She looks beautiful! Enjoy xx
  44. 1 point
    Just picked up this little gem today . I’ve owned two gti’s before - raven blue and red So pleased with the new our purchase Superb condition and the history with the car is like I’ve never seen before . I’ve never been given a box that includes every petrol receipt for the car definitely one to keep hold of 🤗
  45. 1 point
    Does it have a hole in the bottom for an oil sensor?
  46. 1 point
    Good to see you are not rushing into anything with this! I'm sorry, I'm going to be Dad here, you will be spending a big chunk of wedge on this engine rebuild, I really hope you have done your homework about who ever you have booked with: Have they got solid VAG experience - better still rebuilt an AVY engine before? Do they have good reputation? - googled for reviews? How long will they take? - if they don't know what they are doing a few weeks can very quickly turn into months What guarantee will they provide for workmanship and materials? Not being funny, the fact they can fit an engine rebuild into their schedule within a week or 2 would not be a tick in the box ....that is unless the situation was really desperate. As already said by a few of us, you have good compression, your current oil leak is not terminal, your situation is a long way from desperate - probably just requires a head rebuild alone Just as an example, I enquired at a very good garage about getting a bottom end rebuild done for mine, they were happy to take on the job, but couldn't book it in for 2 or 3 months.
  47. 1 point
    Ok. Sounds a bit odd the title. But was going to a local boot fair and spotted a fresco green lupo. Now what's special about this? In the UK they where sold as SE. Well in other countries they where sold as Cambridge and had more options. Which make this very rare. Its a 1.4tdi with open air roof in fresco green. Very rare. I just had to get some pics
  48. 1 point
    lower it, run a straight through exhaust. stick some awful wheels on it and a racing stripe. learn to hate what you have created and then you can move on.
  49. 1 point
    The re-seal has done its job and I have a watertight car again, now to fit her back together again!
  50. 1 point
    Hi as I said I would provide pics to show how I opened the bonnet lock. You must pull off the grill it will break at the sides but no one will notice. Once removed you will be able to see the front of the lock. The release is shielded by the emergency catch when its in the closed position. Using a camping tent peg puller (pic below) which has been bent to allow it to pass over the slam panel lift and under the shield. (The steel bar is only being used to simulate a locked bonnet) Using the slam panel as a fulcrum, lever the tool to the left forcing the lock release leaver to the right. That will do it. I hope this is usefull to someone sorry if pics are to big (please feel free to resize) The grill is only broken under the bonnet so you cant tell when its shut see below
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