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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    It does look a little big to me too. I've been running this badge on mine for years, it's from a MK2 Golf GTI 10th Anniversary Edition, I found it at VW Spring Fest years ago, think it looks great! Might be hard to find now though....
  2. 2 points
    When you sell it, don't just sell it as a cheap small runabout for a new driver. As there are fewer than 10 left on the UK's roads, you need to make that a selling point. It's like Mk2 golfs... even the nastiest poverty spec "Golf C" now goes for very good money as there are so few original one's left!
  3. 1 point
    SDI and tuning in the same breath?! If that's even a 'thing'... Just thought I'd update all you non turbo, diesel tuning people out there. Over the last few months I've been running DLSA150P544 injector nozzles. Same economy on a run, but accelaration torque is way better. Who says you need a turbo? All good, and car 'almost' keeps up with a stock lupo GTi! No access to rolling road at the mo, so no idea what power gain if any. Definitely more torque though. I also adjusted the injection pump quantity adjuster to make it idle at 0.2mg when warm. So a bit more fuelling top end, like 5mg. In theory about 15-20% more fuel. More fuel = more power in a diesel. But. Yesterday my car failed its MOT on emissions. D'oh. Smoke reading when blipped to between 6-7.5. Limit is 0.7 on the plate. Oh. Took it on a quick 20 mile blast to clean anything out, along with some purge in the tank (i don't think the stuff works). Retest. No change. Back to the workshop and had a dig around for some original P745 injectors (0.190mm holes). Chucked em in. Back to tester who was now laughing... Scraped through with an average (after a few tries) of 0.66 smoke. Pass. Moral of the story- you can have more grunt from an SDI, but it's not gonna be legal...
  4. 1 point
    Some of the replacement cheapo temp sensors follow a different 'b-curve'- as in they fitted the wrong thermistor to the sensor. Will give the correct reading at room temp, but when hot completely out. Who knows? Curious problem this....
  5. 1 point
    But the info given by the OP was: If every sensor has been replaced and apparently working what else is there: It is not a definitive answer, but it fits with the info given. interested to hear what is causing this.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    I doubt it's an air leak. Or anything to do with the O2 sensor. But- thinking aloud, what makes you think it's running rich all the time? Are the plugs all fouled up with soot? Is there a strong petrol smell all the time from the exhaust? the sensors if ok, will tell you what the ecu is seeing. The ecu only bases it's fuelling on what it sees. What you see is what it sees (the ecu sends the live data to vcds, so you're seeing through the ecu's eyes so to speak...). Check the data from temps, map, O2, TPS. It should become apparent which one isn't playing nicely.
  8. 1 point
    It's obsolete from VW now but the part number was 6X0 803 550 A and should look like a metal bar as shown in yellow below
  9. 1 point
    Your injectors are fine if running rich. Something is telling the ecu to run a rich fuelling map. Usually temp sensor. But could be a number of things or combination. VCDS will tell you what each of the sensors is seeing, so have a look at each, cold and once warmed up.
  10. 1 point
    Sorry if I am reading between the lines here, but it is the battery box, is your battery not bolted down? It should have a bracket and bolt + the vent goes to the battery, tube connects onto a 90 degree elbow that is usually included with the terminal covers on new batteries: If its not bolted down, it would be an MOT fail as it could move around in a n accident, short out and start a fire.
  11. 1 point
    You have missed the opportunity to take the battery tray out there. I suggest you go back and do so. Especially with the acid. Plastic tube is for venting fumes from the box
  12. 1 point
    Easier to swap it than test, without the right equipment. Otherwise you might be able to rig up a tyre pressure gauge to the output pressure side. Input pressure should be at least 60psi. Not sure what the controlled pressure is on your model. 45psi? But whatever it is, it should be steady. No brakes (very high foot force needed).
  13. 1 point
    I guess I'm in a good position to comment on this! I have a Janspeed cat-back exhaust on my Lupo GTI, not the huge tail pipe version either, exhaust note is perfect, not too loud that it gives you a headache, but loud enough you know it's there. The bore is the same as factory so it doesn't damage any of the back pressure you need, the fit was perfect and was worth every penny of the £350 I spent buying it. I also have a 2019 Up GTI in Tornado red, to say it has no character is doing the car a huge discredit. Sure it's no Lupo GTI, but the car has bagfuls of charisma and I'm loving every drive out in her. Handling is fun, performance is more than adequate, and I'm hoping to remap her soon for around 140ish bhp, plus with an induction kit from Forge Motorsport, I'm hoping for 145-150bhp, which is more than enough for a car of it's size. I highly recommend it!
  14. 1 point
    Yeah, only electric throttles. The old manual ones you DO need to calibrate TPS... with a voltmeter!
  15. 1 point
    It does it every time you switch on... takes a split second. You can hear a whirr click sound. But some TBs come as they are and the ECU doesn't bother, as it compensates while it's running. I wouldn't worry about it TBH. It'll just work.... Only the really early TBs from back around 1991/2 needed a calibration setup as far as I know.
  16. 1 point
    II don't think David is after any more performance,he just wants a bit of a raspy tone I'd like the same.
  17. 1 point
    A few nice jobs done there,it's coming along nice.
  18. 1 point
    I've got a centre silencer delete currently albeit not a very well executed delete! Previous owner just cut out the silencer and put a metal sleeve over it, the pipe doesn't blow but I'm personally not a fan of the noise. From this experience maybe getting a Cobra backbox or any other aftermarket backbox and centre silencer may sound a bit better! Loving the callipers btw!
  19. 1 point
    Don't use it. Might be the cam belt jumped a tooth and you're hearing valve/piston interaction. more details please. What engine?
  20. 1 point
    The debris on top of the filter is normal, they just find their way in there under the scuttle. Water under filter, As Rich says - blocked drains from scuttle into wheel arch. Gurgling Heater may be trapped air
  21. 1 point
    Remove the arch liners and clear the crap out.
  22. 1 point
    Yes - mine showed up on Monday - and the quality is very good. 🙂
  23. 1 point
    Sounds like the bush in the tower itself. I once replaced one with some chopped around rubber hose.
  24. 1 point
    Check for slop / binding at the shifter mech. You can move the selector thru all gears by hand, but probably need the cables off it first. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163589140615 you can get the bushes in plastic for a lot cheaper.... While there check for slop on the tower as if that moves about it messes with the gear selection as well. It could also be the gear lever mech obstructed or worn.
  25. 1 point
    Have you tried getting gears without the engine runnning? If you can get gears fine with the engine running this would indicate a clutch issue.
  26. 1 point
    Okay, bit of an abrupt sale but a house we really want is about to come to market and i need to flush out the luxuries! Hence the sale of my Lupo GTI, just completed an amazing trip over the Lecht which made me fall more in love with it! But needs must. • 2004 Lupo GTI • 6 Speed • 70,000 Miles • MOT May 2020 • Timing belt + clutch replaced 10k miles ago - Receipts for both • Just serviced with Synta oil, VW filters and VW spark plugs • New pads, EBC Yellow Stuff • New Halfords battery still with warranty • Loads of paperwork and receipts included. • Original VW book, manuals and 2 remote keys. The previous owner had this for 6 years and has had STACKS of receipts for work - he covered only 10k miles over the 6 years. It is very original with even the original VW air compressor in the boot. Modifications: Please note all original VW items included in sale for the below modifications. • KW V1 coilovers installed (~£800 new) • KAM racing exhaust manifold (decat) - (~£680 new) • KAM racing exhaust system (twin exit) - (~£480 new) • Alpine WR502R double din head unit. It has the correct fascia installed to make it look factory fit • Team HEKO wind deflectors Bad points: • Very slight ding in nearside wing, just above quarter panel indicator. It's not noticeable as no paint has been chipped at all and i'd imagine it's easily fixable but it never bothered me. • Age related marks around the car (very small scuff front right corner of bumper - probably buff out!) • Spoiler paint could do with being redone. You don't really notice it, it's all the same colour as the car it's just not great. Brake light works fine though. • Wheels not perfect, presentable but could do with a light refurb. All in all this is a great car, in the rarest colour (only 33 ever made!). Tried to be as honest as possible but happy to answer questions. Location: Inverness (can be collected from Edinburgh potentially), can be collected from train station/airport in Inverness Price: £4750 - cash or bank transfer on collection
  27. 1 point
    Cheers for the replies - the house that we were going to go for has already been sold annoyingly, but on the plus side it means i don't have to sell this on a whim. I'll keep a hold of it a bit longer, i have some plans for it once i finish the Mini, probably next year. Just got back from a big road trip in it through the hills, amazing fun! I haven't poked around this car yet, i'd like to drop the rear beam out and front subframe and clean everything up, have it all powder coated etc and fix the little bits mentioned in my advert. So we will see if i keep it long enough to get round to it. Hopefully it doesn't look like that, it's very easy to get carried away with a screwdriver as i've found out! Although i'd have no issue fixing it myself and would probably enjoy doing so.
  28. 1 point
    Hahaaa, it was an omp cage with an additional brace added to the rear if my memory serves me correct! again yes the front strut brace is OMP althoguh since fitting the car hasnt really had any use so hard to say the benefits...
  29. 1 point
    So learnt a lot of valuable lessons this week, but please correct me if wrong😂 Did my fuel filter yesterday and did the normal process of pulling the fuel pump fuse out and trying to start the car to clear the fuel out of the lines. My smart ass then decided to try and then remove the filter straight away. Unfortunately the hoses wouldn't budge so I ended up pulling and twisting as hard as I could and then forgot it was pressurised so got a face and eye full of V Power... Should I have waited a few hours before pulling the filter out though? Old one did look awful! Had the car emissions tested, I can confirm that the car is definitely over-fuelling and running rich so this headache continues. So far the Pre Cat O2 sensor, Thermostat and Coolant temperature sensor has been changed but it's still running rich!!! I will be changing the MAP Sensor and if that doesn't cure it, change the slightly blowing centre silencer and get it remapped as I'm praying the injectors aren't faulty. Yes getting it remapped may sound like a stupid idea but I genuinely have a suspicion that one of the previous owners has "Chipped" it or done some sort of cheap "remap" that tricks the engine into thinking it's cold to dump more fuel in. It may sound unlikely but this owner was also the guy who couldn't even buy an O2 sensor correctly and bought one that had a wire which was about 6,000,000 feet long but cable tied it so I need to keep the ideas open to the causes of over-fuelling. Took another attempt at repairing the cracked engine cover though but this time used Supa-Fix, works wonders this stuff but we'll see how it holds up against time! In the meantime though, the car hit 199K so nearly in the 200K club and I picked up an original grill with all of the clips intact with the front badge for under £30 so thank the lord for Facebook Group selling
  30. 1 point
    So this car, being 17yo, suffers with everything having been undone, nothing been put back correctly! the bonnet catch had no cable attached, just a piece of chain , which was rubbing against the radiator. So removed mechanism, 3 bolts, and ordered a replacement from a breakers. New ones are £48+ vat. Bugger that. Stevens £14.99 inc delivery. Yep it was filthy & clogged up with manky grease & bent. Cleaned in petrol (love the aroma!), used a screw driver blade to mimic bonnet & pushed down to lock. Pulled lever where cable would go & nothing!! it wasn’t moving to the right far enough. In the vice, bashed with a hammer & mole grips. All good. Works. Added some copper grease and refitted. Just waiting for a replacement cable. Pics below & some from my online manual, that cost me a tenner.
  31. 1 point
    Great follow up always good to see when someone solves a problem they come back with how and what. It then goes on to help others
  32. 1 point
    So we fitted cable, the second half, part no: 6H2 823 531. Easy to route, and connect. Bolted in catch, locked it with screwdriver shaft, then tested new handle mech. It works!! We adjusted catch to lowest position to align bonnet with wings, and adjusted bonnet rubber stops (screw in/out) so bonnet doesn’t rattle when down. If you press on bonnet & it rattles in catch, adjust the rubber stops out by half turn. Fitted new mechanism that handle attaches to in footwell, part no: 6X2 823 633B.
  33. 1 point
    Check o ring, push in till th clip feels engaged and try to pull it out. If it isn't in right once it pressurises you're sitting there upset. You should have drained the coolant and presumably it is new from when the engine was done. Wasteful and bad for the environment.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    G13 is the current VW coolant for pretty much all VW branded vehicles, part number G 013 A8 JM1 £12.72 inc vat for 1.5 litres And yes, coolant is added via the expansion bottle
  37. 1 point
    Kite string and nail polish remover. Then finish up with some T cut and meguire's polish.
  38. 1 point
    Looks tacky imho. Just the GTi badge for me
  39. 1 point
    More info on the eraser wheel? I use fishing nylon - it’s quite a bit tougher than dental floss
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    I would take the time and get the easier cheaper bits fixed, a good wash and polish and try to get maximum for it. You know what its set you back, what you can put into it and what you want for it. If you can get an MOT on it, your money will instantly go up also.
  42. 1 point
    Yeah, it's too big. Needs to be smaller than the gti bit.
  43. 1 point
    Nope. Not a fan. Corrado badge?
  44. 1 point
    Seriously happy about the 6th gear, I kept wondering why the revs were a little higher than expected at motorway speeds but now we know😂 Had a lot of comments from people like colleagues and friends calling me mental for chucking that much money into a Lupo but there's just something about the power delivery and noise of the 1.6 which gets us a massive smile guaranteed. #Worthit Honestly makes me sad though when seeing GTI's stripped for parts or butchered which is the reason I'm trying to give this one a second chance at life.
  45. 1 point
    A 6th gear that's a great bonus 👍
  46. 1 point
    Good to see you are not rushing into anything with this! I'm sorry, I'm going to be Dad here, you will be spending a big chunk of wedge on this engine rebuild, I really hope you have done your homework about who ever you have booked with: Have they got solid VAG experience - better still rebuilt an AVY engine before? Do they have good reputation? - googled for reviews? How long will they take? - if they don't know what they are doing a few weeks can very quickly turn into months What guarantee will they provide for workmanship and materials? Not being funny, the fact they can fit an engine rebuild into their schedule within a week or 2 would not be a tick in the box ....that is unless the situation was really desperate. As already said by a few of us, you have good compression, your current oil leak is not terminal, your situation is a long way from desperate - probably just requires a head rebuild alone Just as an example, I enquired at a very good garage about getting a bottom end rebuild done for mine, they were happy to take on the job, but couldn't book it in for 2 or 3 months.
  47. 1 point
    Hahaha you lad I've got new shafts on the way now just gonna go through a process of elimination to be honest the car needs the tlc as I've been doing a lot of miles lately so new parts are well welcome to be fitted on in my opinion lol 🤘🏻
  48. 1 point
    CV joint? If gearbox, you'd get a whining usually. If bearing, it gets louder as you go faster.
  49. 1 point
    Probably a fuelling problem. Vapour lock due to clogged fuel filter. Maybe? Could be a dodgy coil pack. Sniff the exhaust when cranking and hot... you shoukd smell raw fuel if ignition (coil pack) problem. If no fuel smell, then fuel problem. oh, don't forget to change both fluids in your auto box next service. Everyone fogets!
  50. 1 point
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