Owen33 Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 had this engine sat in garage for few year now whilst the current guzzles oil. after a year of trying to get it sorted decided to go at some of it myselfFound its knocking problem which was bigend bearing shell on cylinder 2. As much as i want to get it fixed cheap as poss i know i may as well renew as much as poss while its out and in bits. Is it likely that since the bearing went that there will be damage to crank/ conrod? theres no obvious wear marks on either.The shell:Also stuck completely on how to remove crank with the crank sensor ring? ( i think )The last time i attempted taking it out i got all the 5 clamps of and not thinking when refitting it looks like two half circle bearing/runners had turned and i clamped number 3 on to these and damaged one! would it be al right to refit it? correctly this time though Been told by one friend that i also can't re-use the headbolts ?I know theres a few questions and someones bound to say i'm not obv not capable but got to learn somehow!Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chippi218 Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 that bearing looks F****d you will most likely of damaged the crankif theres any signs of blue (from Heat)there could of been a lack of oil lubricating the big endshead bolts i would personally replace. if there stretch bolts then i would defiantly replace themthere are certain head bolts that you can use once or twicehope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truCido Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 (edited) You cannot remove the crank in this engine, its an aluminium block. you simply have to buy another bottom end! it is technically possible however it would cost a fortune to have it done Edited May 13, 2012 by truCido Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 ahh well theres the idea of a complete strip down out the window! would only have been removing the head to change rings, but engine had recently had stem seals replaced and that cured the oil problem. I'm not too educated on 4T but i know on 2T the rings should be changed quite reguraly. does anyone know what miles should expect before rings should be gone? roughlyProviding the cranks ok i think i've just concluded on a much cheaper rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted May 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 Crank out, suprisingly easy now just need the multi spline tool for head bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truCido Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 You've taken the crank out, so how you going to put it back in properly? The block will be deformed now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 How will it be deformed?the only thing i could see deforming it was removal of the 5 clamps, the oil seal/crank sensor came off easyIm no experienced mechanic so i might be missing something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truCido Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 (edited) AFK is an aluminium block, Meaning you cannot remove the crankshaft without deforming the bearing pedestals.If you remove the crank, you would need the bearing surfaces line honing, which requires specialist machinary to do so and isn't cheap! Edited June 17, 2012 by truCido Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubsy Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 AFK is an aluminium block, Meaning you cannot remove the crankshaft without deforming the bearing pedestals.If you remove the crank, you would need the bearing surfaces line honing, which requires specialist machinary to do so and isn't cheap!this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 so removal of the 5 clamps causes the deformation? they were removed along time ago:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted July 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 thisWhat would happen if I were to rebuild without this being done? Accelerated bearing wear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatelError89 Posted July 1, 2012 Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 yeah will wear bearings very quickly and you will also have a lot of vibrating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 1, 2012 Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 It's not worth bothering.Just buy another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Can't afford too! the oil burning has got 10x worse as well just idling i can't see out of rear window... If anyone knows of a cheap 1.4 bottom end lying around, or even 1.6... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grazo22 Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Engine building is a very exact science and has to be done to such fine tollerances. It's something I would only attempt once I was 100% sure I knew exactly what I was doing.From other info I've read about the block does become deformed. If you are desperate though put it back together until it blows up Otherwise it's just scrap metal!!! There is a good tool called plastiguage which if fab for rebuilts. I have an AFK engine in my lupe and it's not easy to find a replacement :S Some fabias have them in.My friend had a rebuild recently by a specialist tuners and due to the tollerances being slightly wrong it completely destroyed the trust bearings in less than 800 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted July 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 (edited) Anyone know the torque settings I should be using on bottom end? Edited July 5, 2012 by Owen33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 May well have done what may be seen as a stupid thing but got a doner crank and everythings been refitted and turns really freely...So could anyone advise me on what Nm to set the conrod big ends to and the 5 crank clamps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowers155 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 ill check on auto data for you asap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truCido Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 I dont think theres anything in auto data...I'm sure I checked before. Because you can't do the work you're trying to do lol! If its not there then I'd go with the settings from an AFH engine or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Yup that's what I needed so the afh is a 1.4 without a aluminium block? Why can't they all be that simple Non the less will be interesting to see how long this will last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truCido Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Yeah the AFH has a cast bottom end so you can remove the crank all you like! sucks for us really! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen33 Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Does anyone have the main bearing torques for afh? Please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grazza Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 did you manage to get this complete and how is it running now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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