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Lupo 1,8t 20v conversion


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Lupo is ready to start for this year, all mods are done! Here´s a pic of the engine! And another of Lupo down on his feet again...

Hi! I´m new on this forum but i have owned my Lupo for 3 years. I´m doing a 1,8t 20v conversion on my little green friend this winter and i´m nearly done, only exhaustsystem remaining. Pictures ca

Now Lupo is started finally! After a bit of trouble with air leakage around the injectors it now running fine and steady. The throttle response is much better then last years setup so it will be ni

When you say 'all you need to do is drill 2 holes', are you referring to the 2 holes that bolt to the hub (the ones with the red square in the picture)?

No, you need to drill the discs to fit 4x100, the part in the red square needs to be machined about 5,5mm.

Got some things done today too : )

Bumper is back on again, grille too.

441720122031023fd.jpg

And the discs are waiting for some new calipers from a TT due to a minor miscalculation.... the Ed35 calipers dont really

fit at all. My bad too, should have looked at them and maybe test mounted them first.

9e1720122044252c8.jpg

And the enginebay looks like this!

1517201220551a1bc.jpg

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So you're saying that these 312mm calipers actually bolt straight onto the Lupo GTI hub, other than having to machine 5.5mm off the face of the carrier?

That also means you could fit the R32 twin pots, which use a 345mm Disc!!!

Yes they do! And yes it would probably be possible to fit the R32 brakes but they are´nt easy to come by...

And a bit overkill perhaps : )

But that would be a bit overkill on a lupo, don't you think ;)

I guess they´re a bit much for a Lupo and probably a whole lot heavier too.

I´m thinking that 312mm will be more than enough.

Another possible fit might be the Ibiza Cupra R 4 pot, 305mm......

Pics of My brakes fitted on the car will be posted soon, my new calipers arrived today. A set of

Octavia VRS ones : )

Edited by Norpan
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I'm now using Audi S2 calipers which have a 1 mm less volume then these calipers and everything goes well. Pedal travel is longer but far from to long, i'm still going to try a different cylinder some day as I still have one lying around somewhere.

Edit: I think I haven't mentioned it yet, but big probs for this project!! Looks really good as well for the brakes.

Edited by ZX-Rowan
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Are you driving on kart tracks?? Normally they should do very well.

My setup:

S2 calipers (2 pistons) with Green Stuff brake pads

Zimmermann 280 mm drilled discs

But enough offtopic i think :P if you want to know more you can always contact me.

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Do you plan on upgrading the master cylinder for the 312's? I'd guess that you'll lose all feeling and the pedal travel may be a bit long...

I´m already using a master cylinder from a Passat, it´s 22mm and the G60 calipers have 54mm pistons and this

has worked really nice.

My new calipers also have 54mm pistons so theres no diffrence.

I'm now using Audi S2 calipers which have a 1 mm less volume then these calipers and everything goes well. Pedal travel is longer but far from to long, i'm still going to try a different cylinder some day as I still have one lying around somewhere.

Edit: I think I haven't mentioned it yet, but big probs for this project!! Looks really good as well for the brakes.

I have friend who is using S2 calipers but with redrilled audi 288mm discs and a Passat 22mm master cyl. and this works fine

for his Golf mk2 syncro 1,8T. I dont feel like there´s to much pedal travel...

Thanks by the way! : )

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And now my new Octavia VRS calipers is painted, renovated and fitted!

Test fitted one of them so i knew for sure that they would fit...

46oIx.jpg

And here they are fitted! Only brakelines missing, I´ll go for Lupo standard ones.

v4Sc.jpgA wheel testfitted for clearance, no problem what so ever : )

pE9JD.jpg

Edited by Norpan
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Loving the obscene amount of disc peeking out behind the wheels :thumbsup:

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The car is back on it´s wheels again!

Fitted my new brakelines ( Lupo standard ones) and poured new brakefluid in the system, ATE super blue racing...

Then i got started on my new bootbuild. The subwoofer stays the same and the amp goes in wheer the sparewheel once

was.

Haven´t seen the spare since 2007 and now it´s going out, plenty of weight to get rid of just laying there to no use : )

I´m gonna make a board and cover it with same carpet thats in the trunk and at the same time dress up the sparewheel well

with same carpet. No one will ever see the amp install but I´ll know its nice looking... : )

Also had a thougt about covering the rear of the backseat with some carpet....might look good.

New injectors and a phenolic gasket is on it´s way from the states, I went for Genesis II 500cc injectors with 12 hole nossles.

Think they do the trick with E85 fuel... They deliver a flow of 635cc at 4bar so I think they will be more than enough.

Changed som fuelhoses that looked dry and a bit cracked, better safe than sorry when dealing with alcohol around the engine...

Edited by Norpan
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Looks good man :)

I would say definitely cover the back of the seats in fabric. I always think that when they're left bare then it ruins the look of the build.

I think so too, i´m going to make it furry : )

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Todays work in the garage resulted in getting my amp and capacitor fitted.

Also managed to get the back of the rear backrest dressed up in some nice carpet...

dd2201212620A021d.jpg

Not quite finished in the middle where all cabels comes thru, but other than that this is

how its gonna look..

ed2201212959A06d9.jpg

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Bit of advice, do away with the power cap, they put extra strain on your charging system.

Looks good though!

Yes, like a extra battery i know...

But it provides more punch in the sound system too and maybe i´ll get a larger alternator.

Do you know how you calculate what 1 Farad is in Amps if it was a battery..?

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Yes, like a extra battery i know...

But it provides more punch in the sound system too and maybe i´ll get a larger alternator.

Do you know how you calculate what 1 Farad is in Amps if it was a battery..?

It's nothing like a battery im afraid.

The idea behind them, is that they store energy, so that when there is a BIG low note and the amp demands full power, the power cap has a bit of energy in reserve. This stops the lights from dimming, which is why most people use them.

In reality, all it does is suck so much power from the battery, that the lights are constantly dim, and the amount of power it holds is miniscule , so you end up not only charging the capacitors in the amp (that DO work), but also this one as it will never catch up. Even if it does, it'll last about half a second and spend at least twice that long recharging.

They don't help with voltage drop, in actual fact, they make it loads worse.

I'm sorry, but there is no way it can provide more 'punch'. Your amp is running at lower voltage WITH a cap than without one. They're purely for show and being as yours is hidden, the best thing you could do is to take it out and also, make sure you use 0AWG power/earth cable. I'd be worth upgrading the wiring in the engine bay. Google 'the big 3', which entails upgrading the cabling from 'battery to earth', 'alternator to battery' and 'engine to chassis.'

Judging by thnat amp (looks like a 4 channel) it's about 500w rms at most, which relates to a max draw of arounf 35 amps. You and me both know that your alternator and batery can easily cope with that. ;)

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