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long term cup car replica


Toi gulp
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Right it's about time i got about to logging how my car is coming along.

To cut a long story short i've realised thats there no way i can make the lupo much better than it is without spending a huge amount of cash on it so ive decided to turn into a track car project....but on a budget. It obviously has a bit of a cult following as it being the mk1 gti's allbeit estranged younger brother means its an interesting car to start with.

so to the point my lupo is here to stay and the plan is to eventually turn it into a cup car replica over the month's years (or as close as possible as it must retain an MOT)....at least until i can afford a second car and a trailer.

At the moment the car is fairly standard, only with a couple of subtle mods to iron out it's weknesses brakes and suspension to name a few.

the present and intended mods are as follows (in no particular order)

  1. BMC cone filter and cold air feeds from cut outs in slam panel (I will later make up GRP ducts to smooth it out nicely)
  2. i am currently reworking the OEM airbox by having the internal structure removed and laid over with GRP which will be smoothed over so the airbox can act as a plenum chamber (more torque?)
  3. I have thought about having the throttle body smoothed out and the butterfly bladed, but not just yet (negligable gains but fairly easy to do)
  4. H&R lowering springs combined with bilstein B8 sprint dampers (nice handling she does what she's told now like a good girl, even on the limit)
  5. O.z. superturismo wrc's in white obviously, Courtesy of Siimo
  6. the car is currently in the process of being polybushed to tighten things up and retain the suspension geometry.
  7. Group N discs allround and standard pads for road, greenstuff or fast road pads for track use for now (theyre adequate). I am still considering the use of aftermarket brakes e.g brembo, willwood etc but until the car gets more serious i'll save my money and choose the brakes carefully. which applies to racing brake fluid and braided hoses. (I'm going to steer clear of drilled discs as i dont want the risk of them cracking)
  8. quaiffe diff and either sach's or ap clutch, will be ordered soon
  9. polycarbonate rear quarter windows and rear screen will be ordered over the next few months
  10. the car will eventually be gutted (but not damaged of course) when i can get some decent bucket seats and harness and a roll cage will be fitted (6 point weld in)
  11. No real plans for extracting power from the engine as the only gains wont amount to much, it'll stop at just helping it suck and fart, thats it.

till next time......when the super t's will be fitted

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yeah thats what i thought,so much torque in a little car is quite funny though,i kept up with my mates polo gti upto bout 70 which annoyed him a bit i think,having yoko tyres aswell helps a lot wiht geting the power down

is it possible to put the 6 speed box in?

Edited by richardn
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I really want to get some video footage of your car on your track days.

I have a really good quality twin suction camera mount if you fancy it?

I would think a 5 speed box would be better on a track isn't it?

First gear is too short isn't it?

Applogises if Im off base, I've only driven two Lupo GTIs, and never at pace!

a deisel track car would be interesting too, in a certain way

Wash your mouth out sir! :lol:

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suction camera mounts arnt allowed on track days anymore...... which is a shame. but we used an angle and some bolts to clamp it to the headrest stalks on the 3 videos on Vimeo.com....there are more to come i think.

it would be cool to get more video, you can download the ones off vimeo if your really keen!

i'm still thinking about going to one on the 2nd but i cant afford it the moment (new wheels)

the 5spd box is ok but the ratios just seem a bit too long at times i.e. coming into island bend at oulton park (the 3rd corner after the start frinish straight or the one before the banked hairpin called shell...check the video) you can either be in 3rd or fourth. you enter the corner at about 85-90mph and 3rd will hit the limiter before the hairpin before getting on the brakes or you can choose 4th and use the torque to pull you through but have to go through 2 gears instead of one for the hairpin. the 5spd box will get you to 60 quicker but in the real world that means nothing the 6spd allows you to keep in the power band better which is more suitable on track.

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Right it's about time i got about to logging how my car is coming along.

To cut a long story short i've realised thats there no way i can make the lupo much better than it is without spending a huge amount of cash on it so ive decided to turn into a track car project....but on a budget. It obviously has a bit of a cult following as it being the mk1 gti's allbeit estranged younger brother means its an interesting car to start with.

so to the point my lupo is here to stay and the plan is to eventually turn it into a cup car replica over the month's years (or as close as possible as it must retain an MOT)....at least until i can afford a second car and a trailer.

At the moment the car is fairly standard, only with a couple of subtle mods to iron out it's weknesses brakes and suspension to name a few.

the present and intended mods are as follows (in no particular order)

  1. BMC cone filter and cold air feeds from cut outs in slam panel (I will later make up GRP ducts to smooth it out nicely)
  2. i am currently reworking the OEM airbox by having the internal structure removed and laid over with GRP which will be smoothed over so the airbox can act as a plenum chamber (more torque?)
  3. I have thought about having the throttle body smoothed out and the butterfly bladed, but not just yet (negligable gains but fairly easy to do)
  4. H&R lowering springs combined with bilstein B8 sprint dampers (nice handling she does what she's told now like a good girl, even on the limit)
  5. O.z. superturismo wrc's in white obviously, Courtesy of Siimo
  6. the car is currently in the process of being polybushed to tighten things up and retain the suspension geometry.
  7. Group N discs allround and standard pads for road, greenstuff or fast road pads for track use for now (theyre adequate). I am still considering the use of aftermarket brakes e.g brembo, willwood etc but until the car gets more serious i'll save my money and choose the brakes carefully. which applies to racing brake fluid and braided hoses. (I'm going to steer clear of drilled discs as i dont want the risk of them cracking)
  8. quaiffe diff and either sach's or ap clutch, will be ordered soon
  9. polycarbonate rear quarter windows and rear screen will be ordered over the next few months
  10. the car will eventually be gutted (but not damaged of course) when i can get some decent bucket seats and harness and a roll cage will be fitted (6 point weld in)
  11. No real plans for extracting power from the engine as the only gains wont amount to much, it'll stop at just helping it suck and fart, thats it.

till next time......when the super t's will be fitted

Nice to see someone else using a GTI on track. IMO you're doing it the right way by sorting the chassis first. The only thing I would recommend over your current spec is a move to 280mm front discs and get a bucket seat for you in there asap. The standard seats are really not good on track. You end up using the steering wheel and clutch rest to try and stop yourself rolling about, which is not good.

If the LSD group buy comes off, which is looking likely, that will be the catalyst for me to make mine into something a bit more track focused.

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Its a quick and intersting car but let down by soft underpinnings and only just good enough brakes.

yep your quite right, i'm sticking with standard brakes for now until i get a proper set of stoppers. whichever calipers i use will be combined with the biggest discs i can fit comfortably under the wheels.

yes the standard seats are pants, but i cant justify buying bucket seats just yet as the car still has to be a fairly practical and comfortable road car, because ive got a soft spot for country lanes too. which leads on to my next point which i forgot to mention is the the H&R springs will be replaced with something firmer when the car is more orientated to track than road.

Edited by Toi gulp
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Its a quick and intersting car but let down by soft underpinnings and only just good enough brakes.

yep your quite right, i'm sticking with standard brakes for now until i get a proper set of stoppers. whicever calipers i use will be comined with the biggest discs i can fit comfortably under the wheels.

yes the standard seats are pants, but i cant justify buying bucket seats just yet as the car still has to be a fairly practical and comfortable road car, because ive got a soft spot for country lanes too. which leads on to my next point which i forgot to mention is the the H&R springs will be replaced with something firmer when the car is more orientated to track than road.

Don't go mad on spring rates. I'm on KW V2's and out of the box the front springs were too hard, around 280lbs. I dropped down to around 230lbs and the car is much more useable, less understeer, much better ride, better traction and better balance front to rear.

It obviously rolls a bit more and therefore works the tyres a bit harder, but this is offset by a useable back end and a bit of extra neggie camber on the front.

Bigger anti roll bars are the answer IMO, but there is only a rear available at present which is a shame.

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I never realized you were this keen lol, good luck and how did you get on sorting the bushes out.

i'm going to try and fit the rears this weekend and the front wishbones will be done at the begining of june. theyre a fair bit more solid than the standard ones.

lol thanks

Yep a rear anti roll bar would be useful, less of this (even with the b12 kit):

Oultonpark077b.jpg

erm more options with rear anti-roll bars would be great possibly even one that looks more OEM. I suppose it would be possible to stiffen the trailing arms by adding adjustable track links like these whcih i could have a go at drawing up on solidworks and getting a copy machined

rearbeamtracklink.jpg

reducing roll should be aided by lighter seats, lack of interior and polycarb windows but i would have to offset that against the weight of the cage though so it wouldnt be a massive saving.

Edited by Toi gulp
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erm not sure yet, i'm starting to draw it up on solidworks and when i'm close i'll get some prices together the rod itself isnt the difficult bit its mounting it to the beam effectively thats tricky and clearing the exhaust and spare wheel well that could throw a spanner in the works.....watch this space i think.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another step closer to my Cup car replica with some stunning o.z. super t's...............

OZsuperTs018.jpg

OZsuperTs010.jpg

OZsuperTs020.jpg

Cosmetically close now, as for removal of the inner lights to make cold air feeds this idea has now been scrapped in favour of getting alisport to make up a new RAD based on a peugeot 205 gti/1.9 item to fit in the lower section of the grill leaving the top section open to make appropriate cold air feed (this may need to be acompanied with a slightly raised bonet hinge but that will be considered when the rads in place)

Edited by Toi gulp
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when my bank manager, boss and insurance company stop laughing at me lol.

sorry seriously the roll cage will be in probably last of all as that will sacrifice most of the cars (ahem..practicality) however i'm still undecided as to whether to go for a weld in or a bolt the former being preffered. The cage is at least a year away ideally i'd like to have a second car first before putting the cage in.

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  • 2 weeks later...

anyone out there had a go at changing their cars suspension geometry before?

I'm after more caster and so far ive got as far as going to buy adjustable top mounts and adjustable wishbone bushes (bit synical of the later) but i'm thinking if its just easier to change the wishbone from a car with a bigger offset wishbone. say for example a car with similar track and maybe something with stronger power steering (allows more caster)

Any sensible suggestions would be highly usefull, thanks

Edit: not actually bought the top mounts or adjustable bushes pending any info on possible changes of wishbones.

Edited by Toi gulp
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