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Front Subframe Replacement


scotty2
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I have to replace the subframe on our 2002 1.0 Lupo for the MOT.

I have tried e-bay and searching this forum but I am still not sure what the alternate fittings are regarding Arosa, Polo e.t.c. 

Can someone tell me what subframes from other models will fit a standard 1.0 2002 Lupo? 

Or has anyone got a decent one for sale. I'm in East Yorkshire.

Scotty2

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I can do that!

Somewhere near "The Reptile Hotel"??

Can we send a personal mail in this system to get directions?

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15 hours ago, scotty2 said:

I have to replace the subframe on our 2002 1.0 Lupo for the MOT.

I have tried e-bay and searching this forum but I am still not sure what the alternate fittings are regarding Arosa, Polo e.t.c. 

Can someone tell me what subframes from other models will fit a standard 1.0 2002 Lupo? 

Or has anyone got a decent one for sale. I'm in East Yorkshire.

Scotty2

How bad is yours as I’ve just reconditioned mine back to original without too much hassle. Hardest part was waiting for the blaster to clean it 

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I was hoping to do a quick swap rather than get the original repaired. 

For reference, which options are there from other models that would fit? 

To contact me offline - use "Scotty2" on Pistonheads for PMs. Don't know how to send direct messages on this forum...

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You're right 

The reptile hotel.

I've got two I am going to weigh in, so you can happily help yourself.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wire brushed, rustproofed and painted, ready to play.  That was the easy bit... Thanks Rich.

While it is being stripped down, I have got new discs, pads and wheel bearings to fit.

20210606_145621.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

After a bit of neglect, I have started the exchange. Every nut and bolt rusted to buggery. I have had to change tack and drop the frame out with the wishbones attached as I can't get the strut bolts off. Or brake callipers. As predicted the front two "captive" nuts in the chassis are not. Gave up for a week then with renewed vigour, borrowed a plumber mates Mapp gas torch to free off the exhaust nuts - all 4 then came off without shearing. I then attacked the front mount bolts with a battery powered reciprocating saw which cut them off. Thought that was it but there are more bits to disconnect around the gear linkage. Hopefully then I can lower it down and finish releasing the strut tops to drop the bugger off. 

The car is not really worth it, but I've started and it is going to a good home...

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Posted (edited)

Got the Bugger! Worst job is now the replacement of the "captive nuts" Oh, and putting it all back together...

On a better note, when pricing up ball joints, I can get whole replacement arms with ball joints for not much more, so to save work I have ordered replacement arms.

 

 

20210706_191503.jpg

Edited by scotty2
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Be careful with wishbones as I found out. Two types = different sizes

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On 7/8/2021 at 4:43 PM, tigcraft said:

Be careful with wishbones as I found out. Two types = different sizes

I found out the hard way 

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Posted (edited)

Well, unusually for me, they were the correct ones.

Can't get the bloody driveshafts out of the hubs now. Going to have to take the shaft and hub off as one. At least I have built up the replacement subframe, arms and roll bar ready to go on.

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20210714_173808.jpg

Edited by scotty2
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After another battle, the hubs and driveshafts are off!

On the 6 Torx 40 setscrews that hold on the driveshafts, 5 on each side came free but one on each side didn't, and the splines tore in the setscrew. Had to grind the head off.

Went back to the car next day to see if I would have to weld a nut on the remains of the screw to loosen them, and I could wind them out by hand! Has the car finally given up on resisting restoration?

Captive nut job next. Maybe at the weekend...

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Yeah, those driveshaft flange bolts are splined, not torx... (double triple square or some such name). Replace as a set, or they could work loose. They stretch. :)

one of my subframes looked even worse than that! pic on here somewhere. I ended up welding it (a lot). It's a huge problem on all Lupos (front and rear).

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Shafts are xzn.

Splines round them because they allow improper penetration.

As for the captive, weld in a drop bolt instead.

Danno is doing an auto/manual conversion atm, he is also changing the leaky rack, one of his captives has ****ed because he let the subframe hang on it.

He is game to run on three so I'm just going to weld the subframe to the chassis and just never think or worry of the implications.

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I've never done one on a lupo. @Rich if you weld in the front subframe (to the bodyshell), is there a method or trick to make sure it's in exactly the right spot- to the half mm- as otherwise everything will be out.

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The method.... 

It isn't my car, he will run it on three and I'd be happier if he just scrubbed tyres off as opposed to a subframe being attached via one big rubber bushed bit on one side.

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Posted (edited)

Right. I have decided to do the "bolt" conversion similar to the diff pins on a TR6.

Sourced some M12 bolts, cut the head off and ground a taper ready for welding. Ground the chassis leg ready for welding too. Hopefully rebuilding will start at the weekend! ETA: What XZN size are the driveshaft bolts?

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Edited by scotty2
Request for XZN size.
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I do the drop bolts by taking a section of side off, dropping the full bolts in, lining it all up tight, welding the bolt in place and then welding the side back on.

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